Question Help my pc is power cycling and it wont post.

[Hoodedeagle0]

So went to store today to buy a new cooler so I could use it in the future for when I do upgrade to a new system. Before I do the replace I cleaned the old stock cooler thermal paste off the cpu. As I put it on I struggled to get a good seal on it and it never seated right and ended up giving up after multiple tries. At this point I had tried to post (and failed) with it not fully seated, so thinking it wasn't working put old one back on. Now it wont post either and I'm worried I broke something on the motherboard or something else. I had removed almost all the wired connections from the board at one point but had put them all back and have rechecked for proper seating twice, I've gone and removed and reseated my gpu, ram and cooler multiple times, cleared cmos multiple times, unplugged all my cords minus hmdi on gpu, power and my usb mouse and keyboard currently with the usb's being removed at one point completely. At this point I'm lost as to what I did wrong but im not sure exactly whats wrong. Currently my pc turns on, power light is lit, gpu power is lit, motherboard (gigabyte) has seven blinks on the orange light then a single beep and shuts off and repeats the cycle. Im hoping its just something small and easily fixed, but I'm guessing at this point something is wrong with it and need advice on where to go from here.
Pc parts:
-Intel i3 9100
-HyperX fury 2x8gb 2666mhz at 2400 due to the cpu lock
-gigabyte b365m ds3h rev 1.0
-Intel stock cooler (originally, now currently)
- arctic freezer 7x co cooler (was the upgrade but now is not on)
-Asus gtx 1070
-Thermaltake 500 watt 80plus standard psu
-Wd blue sn550 500gb m.2 ssd
-seagate 160gb & 2tb hdd

 

[Darkbreeze]

EXACT model of your PSU? It's on the sticker on the side of it.

 

[Hoodedeagle0]

EXACT model of your PSU? It's on the sticker on the side of it.

The part number is: PS-SPD-0500NPCWUS-W. It's a 500 80 plus white from thermaltake under the smart series made in vietnam.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Since you indicated that you had a heck of a struggle trying to seat the new cooler, I'd take a very close look all around the CPU socket on the motherboard to see if you may have accidentally damaged something on the board while trying to install the cooler.

Also, if that is not a version 2 (v2) model of the Smart series, which I'm fairly sure it's not, you really want to replace it. The original Smart series by Thermaltake was pretty low quality. It might even actually be the problem especially if it has some miles on it and considering it's been a number of years since these were made, I'd bet it does.

 

[Hoodedeagle0]

Since you indicated that you had a heck of a struggle trying to seat the new cooler, I'd take a very close look all around the CPU socket on the motherboard to see if you may have accidentally damaged something on the board while trying to install the cooler.

Also, if that is not a version 2 (v2) model of the Smart series, which I'm fairly sure it's not, you really want to replace it. The original Smart series by Thermaltake was pretty low quality. It might even actually be the problem especially if it has some miles on it and considering it's been a number of years since these were made, I'd bet it does.

Yeah that's my thoughts too. I've been planning on upgrading to a 550 or 600 watt bronze for awhile so I am probably gonna head to the store in abit and get a new one anyways. Then I'll take a good long look around the cpu and check for damage or any thermal paste or bent pins. If that doesn't work I'm pretty sure I'm gonna hate having to replace the motherboard since it's only really available online nowadays.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Before you buy any power supply, do yourself a big favor and read the information at both of the following links. One is my (Slightly older) recommendations guide and the other is the PSU Cultists PSU tier list which is mainly pretty accurate.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

I would recommend that you any series or model that is listed on Tier C or lower. Stick to units listed on tiers A and B. It's important to understand that "brand" doesn't mean much when it comes to power supplies, aside from those brands that have nothing but crappy units, and that specific models are where the determination of quality comes from based on professional reviews. Don't ever base a PSU purchase decision off Amazon or Newegg reviews either.

 

[Maxsupertweaker]

Corsair 850 Watt (Gold). Mine is still going strong after six years. I use my computer for gaming and creative projects nearly 10 hours a day. If that PSU is not available then any mfg who produses 800 Watt or above gold standard units is a good idea.

 

[Darkbreeze]

any mfg who produses 800 Watt or above gold standard units is a good idea.

Sorry, but this is completely inaccurate. There are plenty of Gold rated units out there that are crap. And while we say this all the time I guess it always bears repeating. 80plus efficiency has no correlation with quality, at all. It is ONLY a measure of efficiency, and there are a LOT of units out there with faked 80plus and other certifications. So, let's not say "Any manufacturer who produces 800w or above gold standard units is a good idea". Because it's untrue. As ALWAYS, specific model recommendations based on professional reviews, or else you're simply buying a PSU shaped object and hoping for the best.

And "Corsair 850w gold" isn't a model. There are several different varieties of Corsair 850w Gold out there with vastly different platforms, features and quality including the TX, RM, RMx, RMi, CSM and AX series units. All of which are Gold rated and have 850w models available within each individual series.

 

[Hoodedeagle0]

Before you buy any power supply, do yourself a big favor and read the information at both of the following links. One is my (Slightly older) recommendations guide and the other is the PSU Cultists PSU tier list which is mainly pretty accurate.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...

forums.tomshardware.com

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

I would recommend that you any series or model that is listed on Tier C or lower. Stick to units listed on tiers A and B. It's important to understand that "brand" doesn't mean much when it comes to power supplies, aside from those brands that have nothing but crappy units, and that specific models are where the determination of quality comes from based on professional reviews. Don't ever base a PSU purchase decision off Amazon or Newegg reviews either.

So i found out what my problem was after taking it in. As i feared I had bent some pins and 1 had been broken. Luckily the guys I went to had good luck and managed to fix it and I now have it booted up and running right now. I will likely in the future upgrade to a better system but for now my stress is too high and gaming is needed. As for the psu it somehow isn't even troublesome.

 

[Hoodedeagle0]

Corsair 850 Watt (Gold). Mine is still going strong after six years. I use my computer for gaming and creative projects nearly 10 hours a day. If that PSU is not available then any mfg who produses 800 Watt or above gold standard units is a good idea.

I would upgrade my psu but right now I'm limited due to my power. It's max power wattage is between 650 and 750 watts so I'd be buying a 550 or 600 watt psu.

 

[Darkbreeze]

It's great that you found the problem, but it would still be a very good idea to replace that original Smart series PSU with something that isn't likely to cause further problems for you at some point. Probably sooner rather than later. Good luck to you though.