Question Help with slow PC after Windows reinstall

Jul 20, 2024
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So my PC was running fine ever since I got it (purchased new August ish of 2021 off Newegg, it's an ABS prebuilt). Around March of this year a lot of my accounts were hacked. Long story short I downloaded a mod for a PC game (WWE 2k24). The mod author was trustworthy, but the site that the download was hosted on was not. I had a popup while I was on there, downloaded the wrong file that was not the mod at all, and this file is what infected my PC. Evidently something harvested my browser data and that's how all my accounts got hacked. I bought antivirus and it removed the culprit but I read mixed things that it might still be in the RAM or something somewhere else so the only way to be sure was to do a clean Windows reinstall.

I did that by using an old 2012 PC to download a clean copy of Windows 10 from MS website, I scanned my backup USB drive with antivirus, backed up all my important files and scanned them again, then disconnected the drive. I then did a clean install and completely formatted all internal drives. I set up everything on my PC again including GPU drivers but noticed that Windows was somewhat slower. The main difference was startup speed. Before reinstall, even though I was technically infected with whatever virus my PC had, it started up instantly and I was at the desktop in under 20 seconds. After the reinstall of Windows it was significantly longer. Things were slower in general after everything got going, but not really noticeable too much as all I was doing was browsing for a while. Then after a while I tried playing Ark Survival Ascended and things were REALLY slow and the game was unplayable. It also seemed to kill my PC momentarily. Even after closing the game just navigating Windows and my web browsers was super slow.

After some google searches I came upon the following thread on this forum:

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/pc-slow-after-clean-install.3759482/

The solution seemed to work, and I disabled whatever setting is equivalent to Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor on my own motherboard (Asus Prime Z490-P). Ark SA was playable and ran well and startup seemed faster although still not what it was before.

Things have gradually gotten slower into the present though. Startup is slow again, and I'm playing WWE 2k24 and while it runs well in game, downloading anything from Community Creations in game takes forever as well as navigating the menus. I own the game on Xbox as well and I can download the same character at the same time and on Xbox it's maybe 5 seconds max and on my PC some of them take 20-30 seconds. I'm not sure what to do at this point. Oh and I tried Ark SA again last week and it had a graphical glitch that made it unplayable. Half the screen was covered by a field of something, and I would move and it would become transparent but flicker between transparent and solid as my character was walking. After that I checked GPU drivers and there was an update there which I did, but I haven't tried playing Ark again since.

Another issue that happened was yesterday. I setup a new monitor and accidentally unplugged my PC while shifting things around. I got the new monitor hooked up and connected to my PC but when I turned my PC on the monitor wasn't picking up a signal from it. This had happened before (before the virus or any problems had emerged) with my old monitor and back then I just held down the power button to turn the PC off, left it off for 10 seconds, then turned it on and the display was back. So I tried that yesterday and the monitor still didn't pick up a signal. Then while I was waiting and connecting a new cable (I was trying to use Displayport and had been using HDMI) the PC just shut itself off. Finally after turning it back on and connected via HDMI the screen came on but as is usual now it was slow to boot up to desktop. I left the Displayport cable connected and switched to that input later on and lo and behold it was recognized, so I disconnected HDMI that's what I'm using now. There was also a brief period where audio wasn't going through to my speakers, but I connected them to the monitor and I was getting sound that way, then connected them back directly to the PC and they worked.

So just a lot of weird issues popping up. Not sure if they're all related or not, but the biggest issue is boot up speed and performance in game. I'm not really sure what to do at this point or what the problem is. I don't think the virus was the problem as my PC was working fine even with the virus, I think it was just data harvesting malware. The problems all started after I reinstalled Windows.

For reference, my specs are:

Windows 10 Home
Motherboard: Asus Prime Z490-P
CPU: Intel i7 10700K
GPU: NVidia GeForce RTX 3070
RAM: 32 GB
Hard Drives (Not sure these numbers will mean anything to anyone but it's the only identifying info that comes up when I search to find what exactly they are:
- WDC WD10EZEX-00WN4A0 1 TB internal SSD (main drive that windows is installed on)
- KINGSTON SUV400S37240G 240 GB internal SSE (drive I took out of previous PC, only used for extra storage and no system applications)
- INTEL SSDPEKNW010T8 1 TB internal HDD
- ST5000DM000-1FK178 Seagate backup drive 5 TB External USB HDD

I also saved the link to the exact PC, it's right here (I upgraded the RAM and put in the extra hard drives immediately when I got it):
https://www.newegg.com/abs-ali454/p/N82E16883360038
 

Ralston18

Titan
Moderator
I could suggest a lot of things.

First: PSU: - make, model. wattage, age, condition (original to build, new, used, refurbished)? History of heavy gaming use?

= = = =

Many variables here....

That said my recommendation is another full and clean Windows' reinstall. ( Hopefully you have all important data backed up - correct?)

Follow the Tom's recommended procedure:

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/windows-11-clean-install-tutorial.3831442/

I.e., a do over" followed by a few days of very careful updates, configuration changes, driver downloads, and component related installs (one at a time allowing time between installs) to restore the system.

Then, once the system is running and stable, begin installing games and non-Windows apps one at time sans any mods (from anywhere), etc....

Be extra careful about the source websites.

Overall strategy being to simply restore/establish the build to some lasting stability and then a methodical, controlled process to address speed and performance (if necessary).

Small steps: deliberately planned and implemented.

And watch the error logs (e.g. Reliability History/Monitor, Event Viewer, Update History) as you go.

Look for anything unexpected or unknown (google as needed). Post questions and concerns as necessary.
 
Jul 20, 2024
9
0
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PSU is 750 W 80 plus gold. Don't think I have the info on the parts any more so I don't know the brand. I bought the PC new so it was new with the PC.

Not really too keen on another reinstall as that seems to be what caused the slowdown and it's a huge hassle. Everything is backed up currently, including modded games which I would restore, but they are all clean. Literally everything I've downloaded since the initial reinstall I've scanned with antivirus.

But if I did go ahead with it that guide seems to be for Windows 11 which I don't have. The PC came with Windows 10 already on it. And I just downloaded whatever free Windows 10 from MS website when I did the initial reinstall. So not sure how I go about associating that with my MS account, and not sure if the guide changes for Windows 10.

Also if I do the reinstall, I would need at least the browsers and telegram up and running immediately within the same day as I use them for communication and work purposes. Would this be ok as long as I wait to install games and such?

EDIT: Also a detail I left out. PC has light to medium gaming use. A lot of the gaming I have done on it has been idle stuff like in the menus of WWE creating things, or playing strategy games. I've played a decent amount of Palworld recently and some Ark like 2 years ago before starting that up again this year. Probably played less than 10 hours of Ark total this year though. For reference my previous PC had a worse PSU both by wattage and I think it was bronze and I had much heavier gaming hours on that and it lasted from 2016 to 2021. So I wouldn't think that would be the issue but it's always possible I got a bad one I guess.
 
Last edited:
May 17, 2024
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PSU is 750 W 80 plus gold. Don't think I have the info on the parts any more so I don't know the brand. I bought the PC new so it was new with the PC.

Not really too keen on another reinstall as that seems to be what caused the slowdown and it's a huge hassle. Everything is backed up currently, including modded games which I would restore, but they are all clean. Literally everything I've downloaded since the initial reinstall I've scanned with antivirus.

But if I did go ahead with it that guide seems to be for Windows 11 which I don't have. The PC came with Windows 10 already on it. And I just downloaded whatever free Windows 10 from MS website when I did the initial reinstall. So not sure how I go about associating that with my MS account, and not sure if the guide changes for Windows 10.

Also if I do the reinstall, I would need at least the browsers and telegram up and running immediately within the same day as I use them for communication and work purposes. Would this be ok as long as I wait to install games and such?

EDIT: Also a detail I left out. PC has light to medium gaming use. A lot of the gaming I have done on it has been idle stuff like in the menus of WWE creating things, or playing strategy games. I've played a decent amount of Palworld recently and some Ark like 2 years ago before starting that up again this year. Probably played less than 10 hours of Ark total this year though. For reference my previous PC had a worse PSU both by wattage and I think it was bronze and I had much heavier gaming hours on that and it lasted from 2016 to 2021. So I wouldn't think that would be the issue but it's always possible I got a bad one I guess.
You can change from windows 10 to 11 as long as your licence key is linked to your MS account, but I think the best option is to reinstall windows 10 again and make sure essentially drivers are installed.
 
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Jul 20, 2024
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You can change from windows 10 to 11 as long as your licence key is linked to your MS account, but I think the best option is to reinstall windows 10 again and make sure essentially drivers are installed.
Got it. So which drivers do I typically need to manually install/update? I know GPU, and I remember having to update sound drivers the first time I did this. And how long should I wait before upgrading to Windows 11? I just checked and my Windows 10 says it is activated with a digital license linked to my MS account.
 
Jul 20, 2024
9
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I'm probably going to go ahead with this tonight. Everything is backed up to my external and I'll just disconnect that before I begin the reinstall. All internal drives I'll just wipe and reformat. Thinking of doing clean Windows 10 install, then just the 2 browsers and telegram app that I need for a day or so before going forward from there. Just not sure the timetable I should use for my other applications, for games, and for Windows 11.
 
Jul 20, 2024
9
0
10
I could suggest a lot of things.

First: PSU: - make, model. wattage, age, condition (original to build, new, used, refurbished)? History of heavy gaming use?

= = = =

Many variables here....

That said my recommendation is another full and clean Windows' reinstall. ( Hopefully you have all important data backed up - correct?)

Follow the Tom's recommended procedure:

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/windows-11-clean-install-tutorial.3831442/

I.e., a do over" followed by a few days of very careful updates, configuration changes, driver downloads, and component related installs (one at a time allowing time between installs) to restore the system.

Then, once the system is running and stable, begin installing games and non-Windows apps one at time sans any mods (from anywhere), etc....

Be extra careful about the source websites.

Overall strategy being to simply restore/establish the build to some lasting stability and then a methodical, controlled process to address speed and performance (if necessary).

Small steps: deliberately planned and implemented.

And watch the error logs (e.g. Reliability History/Monitor, Event Viewer, Update History) as you go.

Look for anything unexpected or unknown (google as needed). Post questions and concerns as necessary.
Also aside from the error log tools built into Windows that you suggested, are there any other benchmark tools I should look into early on? As the only performance metric I'll be able to gauge without installing and starting a game is going to be boot time.
 
Jul 20, 2024
9
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10
Just enabled TPM 2.0 in bios. PC restarted and is on and lit up but now monitor says no signal. I tried both Displayport and HDMI.
 
Jul 20, 2024
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Disconnected all internal drives except the main drive and tried fresh install of Windows 10. It said there were no Bootable drives and it couldn't install so I had to exit from that. I unplugged the USB drive that I made for Windows 10 and every time I restart I just go to Bios. I go to boot options and it says no Bootable drive. Maybe my initial reinstall was on one of the two I removed? Doesn't make sense though because all my Windows files were on my main internal SSD. I don't know what to do now.
 
May 17, 2024
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Got it. So which drivers do I typically need to manually install/update? I know GPU, and I remember having to update sound drivers the first time I did this. And how long should I wait before upgrading to Windows 11? I just checked and my Windows 10 says it is activated with a digital license linked to my MS account.
Usually the windows update will do all the work, you just have to connect to an internet connection
 
  • Like
Reactions: BKramer
May 17, 2024
14
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Disconnected all internal drives except the main drive and tried fresh install of Windows 10. It said there were no Bootable drives and it couldn't install so I had to exit from that. I unplugged the USB drive that I made for Windows 10 and every time I restart I just go to Bios. I go to boot options and it says no Bootable drive. Maybe my initial reinstall was on one of the two I removed? Doesn't make sense though because all my Windows files were on my main internal SSD. I don't know what to do now.
Are you sure the ssd is plugged in? If so does it show on your bios??
 
Jul 20, 2024
9
0
10
I could suggest a lot of things.

First: PSU: - make, model. wattage, age, condition (original to build, new, used, refurbished)? History of heavy gaming use?

= = = =

Many variables here....

That said my recommendation is another full and clean Windows' reinstall. ( Hopefully you have all important data backed up - correct?)

Follow the Tom's recommended procedure:

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/windows-11-clean-install-tutorial.3831442/

I.e., a do over" followed by a few days of very careful updates, configuration changes, driver downloads, and component related installs (one at a time allowing time between installs) to restore the system.

Then, once the system is running and stable, begin installing games and non-Windows apps one at time sans any mods (from anywhere), etc....

Be extra careful about the source websites.

Overall strategy being to simply restore/establish the build to some lasting stability and then a methodical, controlled process to address speed and performance (if necessary).

Small steps: deliberately planned and implemented.

And watch the error logs (e.g. Reliability History/Monitor, Event Viewer, Update History) as you go.

Look for anything unexpected or unknown (google as needed). Post questions and concerns as necessary.
So I think I know the problem. When I did the initial reinstall back in March, I did not disconnect all the internal drives as I did not know about those problems described in the guide. I figured that since I was erasing and formatting them it would be fine. But now it seems the 240 GB Kingston SSD is assigned as the boot drive as a result of that. Before I started the reinstall I ran either Crystal Disk Info or HD Tune Pro and saw that drive at 66% (my worst drive, as the HDD internal was 95%, and both the main internal SSD and the external HDD were 100%). So if my PC is booting from that drive, that would explain why it is running so much slower. I'm guessing there is no way to fix this and assign the main internal SSD as the boot drive?
 
Jul 20, 2024
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Are you sure the ssd is plugged in? If so does it show on your bios??
It's plugged in but does not show up in bios as a Bootable drive but I think it shows up elsewhere just as storage. I was able to complete the reinstall but only after reconnecting the internal drives, and it's still slow after reinstall. I can't get into bios now as it's doing the no signal to my monitor thing again, and I've been up all night trying to do something with this so I have to get some sleep now. I updated the thread in my previous comment that I started typing before I saw your reply.
 
May 17, 2024
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I think you should plug all your drives and delete all partitions especially 66% hdd and then try to install on the healthy partitions