Homebuilt vs Falcon NW vs. Alienware

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I don't really have one. I guess I should but mostly I want the best value vs. quality for an upper-tier gaming rig.


Until they have pretty good 24 inch panels which can reach the true 2ms or close lag input of the 22 inchers, I'm sticking with 1680 x 1050. And for that resolution, right now, no need for SLI. I don't even know if 24 inchers really benefit from SLI.



So thermal paste is strong enough to keep it on the CPU but you can pull it off if needed? Then what keeps it from falling off? I guess good enough contact. So basically I hook up the mobo, etc., plop in the CPU, then use the thermal paste and if there are some issues, I need to identify which component is the problem. If it is the CPU, I can just clean all that stuff off and return it? Im just worried they would say it must be something I did with all the paste, etc.


I like it but two concerns (maybe unwarranted). I've become a fan (pun intended?) of cases with front grills and easy airflow. Do those tiny side grills allow enough venting? Does it come with enough fans? Also...and I don't know this either way...but if the Fatal1ty card doesn't have some connector to link to the front audio port, i'd have to open that big panel door each time I want to use headphones although of greater concern is air flow. Seems the Antec 900 is somewhat popular and I like the venting much more but its too blingy 😛 Side panel, etc.


Someone suggested this one instead http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703009 but would any of these three fit any popular case (atx) design? Seems the PC power cooling brand has become quite the flavor for PSUs now?

Thanks for the other advice. Man so many choices. Sometimes it is fun to make them yourselves, but until you know enough, it's almost easier when someone else does it for you 😱
 
Congrats to you. PC building isnt that hard. Its the tuning and OCing that makes it hard at times.

1) Upper-tier cases? I would like a very well constructed case with great cooling/high fan quality. No bling bling needed, just damn good functionality. Do most upper-tier cases come with enough fans or do most people always have to add extra fans?

Higher end Coolermaster cases are pretty nice.

2) CPU cooler? When I buy the CPU (tempted to try the QX9650), do you first power up without glueing on the cooler (tempted to get Zalman XNPS7000B-ALCU LED one unless there is a better best-of-breed air one?) in case there is a problem and you need to return the CPU? How long can you try the system before it is dangerous to run the CPU without a cooler?
Which of these top-4 listed would you use? http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=zalman

The Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme is a very good cooler. The Zalman 9700 is still solid. My 9700 sits on top of a Conroe 6300 @ 3.2 ghz without breaking a sweat.

3) PSU. Anyone have the link to the tier-classification for PSUs I've seen floating around? Since I will likely always just stay with the fastest single GPU vs. SLI anytime soon, is there any real reason to go for 1000watt vs. 750watt if I will have 1 GPU, 2 hard drives, and 2 DVD/equivalent drives?

PC Power and Cooling. I dont need to say much more. Been around forever. 7 year warranty. The 860 watt one should do anything your going to need it to do, including SLI, Crossfire, lots of HDs.

4) Mobo/memory - For Penryn processors, it seems most upper-tier system builders are going with 790i because of the SLI support. Since I only will likely ever have 1 GPU, any reason to not consider the X48 boards? I also notice NewEgg has more reviews on 790i boards vs. X48 boards - and since both require DDR3 - I guess I'll stick with 790i because then at least I have the SLI potential should I decide to use it one day. Also, who is the best DDR3 mfg? I know for DDR2 (back a ways now), Corsair was king...but who is it now?
Considering: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188025
P.S. Does the 790i support the ESA software from Nvidia to monitor temperatures, control fans, etc?

790i is probably your best bet for future proof. Asus is probably the best brand name for you.

5) GPU - Still have not decided but whether I go 9800GTX, 8800Ultra, or 9800GX2 - I don't think there are any considerations I need to make for the rest of the system when using these other than SLI if I use more than one which I am not (right?) [well besides the PSU and I'll probably go 1000 watt just for the SLI potential one day]

If you gonna spend the bucks, Id still run 2 8800 GTX's in SLI over the 9800 GTXs or a 9800GX2. That powersupply I recommended before wil fill the bill for SLI.

6) Sound card - Going with Fatal1ty Platinum since this is the only way that I know of being able to have front-headphones automatically cut off the main speakers AND have the creative console software switch to headphone mode. I realize I can put a jack up front to use headphones with regular XIFI cards but it won't switch over automatically, cut off the main speakers, etc.
Considering: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102014

Stay away from Creative. Average product with poor support. Asus and Auzentech are far better sound solutions.

7) Hard drives - nothing strategic here to consider as I'm not going raid... 1 Raptor and 1 250 or 320 gig storage drive as I already have a Windows Home Server I set up that stores most everything else.

You answered your own questions here. I prefer Seagate drives, and I dont consider a Raptor to be mission critical for gaming. Once the game is loaded, youll see very little improvement from have a Raptor, unless you have to load alot.

8) Bluetooth - I mostly need this for my pocket pc phone (6800 from Verizon) to synch up without a cable... What is best option?

Add in card most likely.


 
I have a huge CPU cooler that even kept an 805D under 50C with a 35% OC. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150082

The front panel speaker cutout's supposedly in some onboard chipsets, but it doesn't work on the board I have so you probably are better off with a card if just for that reason.

I just use a USB dongle for bluetooth, I have way more USB ports than I'll ever use anyway so it just stays plugged in. It's never had a problem with several phones, a couple headsets, and my Palm PDA. It's just a cheap D-Link I got from CompUSA or somewhere.
 
So thermal paste is strong enough to keep it on the CPU but you can pull it off if needed? Then what keeps it from falling off? I guess good enough contact. So basically I hook up the mobo, etc., plop in the CPU, then use the thermal paste and if there are some issues, I need to identify which component is the problem. If it is the CPU, I can just clean all that stuff off and return it? Im just worried they would say it must be something I did with all the paste, etc.

The thermal paste is used to help transfer heat from the CPU to the cooler. There will be some unevenness or irregularites in the CPU and cooler base the the paste fills it. It is not used to hold the cooler on the CPU, there are retaining clips for that. Paste/compound comes off easy and can be re-applyed without worry.

Your CPU will be one of the last components to fail in my experience. PSU, mobo, and mem are the main culprits.

I like it but two concerns (maybe unwarranted). I've become a fan (pun intended?) of cases with front grills and easy airflow. Do those tiny side grills allow enough venting? Does it come with enough fans? Also...and I don't know this either way...but if the Fatal1ty card doesn't have some connector to link to the front audio port, i'd have to open that big panel door each time I want to use headphones although of greater concern is air flow. Seems the Antec 900 is somewhat popular and I like the venting much more but its too blingy 😛 Side panel, etc.

I've built with the P182, and it's a nice case. I'm using a Thermaltake Armor. Front grills and fans, side window with huge fan, top ports. The Antec 900 is popular too.
 
I would go with a 8800GT 512MB single card then in 3 or 4 month (maybe less) sell it on ebay and get a new Ati or Nvida high end next gen card. They will be out before you know it. Heck depending on how fast you want to build this with the way both companies have been pumping out new products lately the might be out in time for your build.
 
Have Big Question ..... how long you gonna keep the thing ? If it's 1-2 years, I'd build a DDR2 box. If it's 3-4, I'd build a DDR3 box. And with the money you were ready to spend at Falcon, DDR3 should pose no problem.

It all starts with the MoBo. I'll assume DDR3 as Anadtech writes:

"If you're still buying DDR2 and you're serious about overclocking, you're buying yesterday's technology. That might be fine for the price-conscious enthusiasts, but if you're considering the purchase of a $300+ motherboard and $1000 CPU we have to strongly recommend making the move to DDR3."

On the X48 side, to my mind the Asus P5E3 has no peer at the moment
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3229

If you want SLI, then that leaves the 790i options with only XFX, EVGA and Asus in the picture as yet, it looks like Asus is finishing 1st here again too based upon the review below....but only by a little bit but it costs $100 more. But it does come with a HD Audio Card "in da box". There does seem to be some BIOS issues ATM with all 790i boards tho as some OC's make things go whacky. If ya build , stick with known working combos from these articles.
http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3283&p=1

Processor is a budget decision but as ya can see on anandtech, review, they cranked a 3.16 up to 4 Ghz.

See the article above for memory recommendations...they do note:

"We were able to find 2GB kits like the Patriot Viper rated at DDR3-1600 with 7-7-7 timings for under $200 without too much trouble. To date, all of our experiences with DDR3 memory have shown the DDR3-1600 kits to be incredible performers when it comes to overclocking."

The Striker can do Triple /Quad SLI, so figure if you wanna go double, triple or quad (two GX2's) SLI. If you go the X48 route, that opens a lot of other options.

For hard drives, I'd be stuck between the Samsung F1 for performance and the Seagate 7200.11 for reliability. Until WD comes up with a hi density platter for the Raptor, it simply can't compete. The Raptor's 12th percentile reliability ranking doesn't inspire confidence. It is however much better than the other WD (Caviar - 4th percentile) and RE 2 - 5th percentile) offerings.

I haven't seen anything outperform Thermalright's IFX 14 yet but you will have to decide whether you want to hassle with heat sinks on BOTH sides of the MoBo.

Plextor is not the gem they used to be. They no longer make any burners, at least that I am aware of, recent offerings are just rebranded from LG, Lite On etc depending on model. The Asus Lightscribe model is very popular over at newegg.

For case and PSU, if you are doing a 1 vid card solution and not doing monster OC's, I'd grab a case and MoBo from the same manufacturer to ease cable length and potential TS woes. If doing multiple cards, look at the PSU's / Cases here...and yes, same manufacturer solutions are possible:

http://www.slizone.com/object/slizone_build_psu.html
http://www.slizone.com/object/slizone_build_cases.html

IIRC, you had a GX2 single slot card in a SLI MoBo, just noting that the GX2 is a single slot solution and ya don't need SLI. Of course you could get 2 of them :) .... of three 9800GTX's

Make sure to fill every fan mount with a fan if they aren't all supplied.

I still buy floppy's tho I get them "combo'd" w/ a card reader.
 
The P182 front door opens, and has big front grills. If you want the door to stay open permanently it opens to be flush with the side of the case (270 degree open). Even with the door closed plenty of air goes in.

I chose the case because of noise, cooling and the clean look. There are many cases, and for the most part any case will do. The choice is appearance and noise.

One thing to note about the P182. The PSU bay isn't as large as some, and a big PSU has trouble fitting. I'm using the PC P&C Silencer 750W Quad X-Fire edition (that's a mouthful), and I had to remove the lower fan to make room. If I put a little more force into it, I could get the fan back in, but the PSU and HDDs (also in the lower chamber) stay plenty cool with just the fan from the PSU.

For your video card, look at the best for your money article (also a sticky topic in the video card forum section). Take your pick from the highest cards. I'm using an 8800GTS 512MB, and I love it. Then again, I play mostly RPG and Diablo-style games at 1280x1024 max resolution.
 
I think this is one of the best builds, as I put a bunch of them together lately. This is just as fast as the super expensive builds, and can overclock nearly the same.

Gigabyte P35-Ds3L $84 - Will overclock FSB more than youll ever need. Quality board.
E8400 CPU $199 - Will overclock to past 3.6 on air and run cool, no problem. Best bang per buck.
New Noctua 120MM CPU cooler $70, super quiet, super cooling, super overclocking.
Coolermaster GreenPower 600W PS. $100 85% effecient
Western Digital 7200 RPM 250 GB drive: $59 - 10k HDD won;t make your games play faster FPS, so get a normal one.
DVD writer/CD rom: $29 pick your brand, 20x copier.
Cosmos S Coolermaster Case: $200 case, but its the best money can buy arguably, and is very quiet, comes with massive cooling, and built in sound deadening. Quality re-invented.
9800 GTX Video - $299. Better to upgrade video every year for $299 than to SLI and waste money. 1 card a year will smoke SLI from 1 year ago, for less money.
4 GB DDr2 1066, GSkill, or Geil 2x2GB kits $129
24" Widescreen Monitor $400 est.

$1569 for a super computer that is state of the art for games, and no slug at anything else.

Do yourself a favor, put Windows XP Pro on it. Vista is HORRENDOUS. Terrible. As you will learn, expecially Vista 64 which I would have to say half of all software doesn't even work properly on. As youll see. maybe not half, you get the idea.

$1469 for a super fast rig. And its simple, and overclocks a ton.

Also, I have a watercooled X38 maximus MB next to the P35 express board. There is no down side whatsoever to the $200 cheaper board. none.

Kuma
 
Well, my recommendation is to start small. My first homebuilt was a $500 junker, but I learned the basics with it. Since it sound you want to cut to the good stuff, I'll list my main recommendations:

1.) DON'T get the top of the line parts (like Intel Extreme CPUs or 8800 Ultras). They are overprices and will be outdated just as quickly as the parts that cost hundreds less.

2.) Stick with an Intel mobo if not SLIing.

3.) Get a good PSU (I'd say just go with Corsair or PCP&C).

4.) Setup a comfortable, open, and well lit place to build the computer. It is fun, but something (hopefully small) will go wrong and add some stress.

5.) Buy your parts from a retailer who will stand behind them (ie, Newegg).

6.) If anything seems amiss, post questions (and PICS) here.

7.) Don't think about it too much. Get the parts ordered and start having fun!

I know these don't help much with your hardware decisions, but everyone else are already making great suggestions.

Good Luck!
 
There are hundreds if not thousands of local mom & pop computer stores that will build or assist you in building your own computer.

Figure $75 per hour x 2 hours for a build and basic troubleshooting check.

You can pick your parts and let them do the "hard" work. Give the local guy a chance, you might find a perfect fit.

By the way, I agree with your postion. MB and CPU installs are not hard, I just don't have time fussing with the core products.

I do install my own extra HD's, Graphics card, RAM etc. Those products are easy enough to troubleshoot if you know the core product is working and have a working computer to swap parts.
 
You're in luck. Someone posted the PSU tier link in another thread.

http://www.tomswiki.com/page/Tiered+PSU+Listings?t=anon

Unfortunately, this list like others I've seen hasn't been updated in a while. However, it is still a good list to start from. After you pick a possible PSU, look for review. The PSU I would suggest is the PC P&C Silencer 750W Quad X-Fire Edition. I'm using it, and I can tell you that it runs very quietly. You would notice it alone in a quiet room, but with just a little ambient noise (such as case fans), it blends in and disappears.
 
DrunkGamer,
I just reread the entire thread - all of your answers are within the thread for your new build.

My sugg:
Stay 1-2 years behind the latest tech and overclock.

Why should you do this?
1. Because the latest tech costs a crazy amount of money.
2. Because all the kinks ie drivers etc.. are not cross compatible yet with the full spectrum of the latest available products.

Find similarities within the reviews/posts that backup or support why people have had success with certain products. In other words look on Newegg.com. There is a ratio between how many eggs an item has received and how many people have reviewed the item - you can then draw a comparison between this ratio and another item within the same category on newegg.

My sugg for the build:

Asus Rampage formula: Because the FSB can go to 1600+ and uses DDR2. The price/performance ratio with DDR3 is not there yet.

D9 high density DDR2 RAM @ 1066 or higher.. so your most likely bet is corsair but there are others out there like OCZ / Patriot that seem to run a tight ship.

PCP&Cooling 750 Quad PSU: This is arguably one of the best power supply units ever made for personal computers and will last through your next 3 builds.

Q6600: Because this is the lowest price/highest performance CPU available. With it you can multi-task till your :heink: in the face. Aftermarket cooler is a must. Zalman's 9700 perhaps.

10,000rpm SATA HD: This is an absolute must. There is a world of difference between a 7200 and 10,000 rpm drive and don't let anyone tell you different. Your HD is the most important component of your system in my opinion and your selection here simply should not afford any compromises. How fast your system boots, copies files, downloads and uploads information, shuts down, paging file access, data retrieval.. etc.. is all HD. I had no idea how crucial it was until after I hooked up the Western Digital.

Wait till Nvidia pulls out the G200 cards because they are going to absolutely blow away anything that is out currently so I would wait on this one.

Nothing is scary, if you get stuck - hop on a forum or just take it down to your local computer shop and have the guys walk you through the final touches. Make sure you learn from them. Have them tell you what to do and then do it yourself so they can see you do it. Easy. First build..
PS.. stick with air on your first build and learn the basics and then build water into your next project.

BW11
 
Here is what I'd do for a decent gaming rig that can be upgraded for the next 12-18 months or longer, especially since your a MMORPG type gamer, with occasional FPS games.

CPU - $295
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9300 Yorkfield 2.5GHz 6MB L2 Cache LGA 775 95W Quad-Core Processor - Retail
Experience the 45nm Quad-Core Technology
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115043

Mobo - $179 - $30 MIR = $149!!! Probably the best p35 based mobo out there. Has alot of options and should last for quite some time.
ABIT IP35 Pro LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813127030

GPU - $257 - $30 MIR = $227!!! Not the highest card, but definately not a slouch. Use the 90 day "Step Up" program from eVga and upgrade to a faster card within the 90 days!!
EVGA 512-P3-N845-AR GeForce 8800GTS (G92) KO 512MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail
EVGA "Knock Out" Edition, overclocked at 678MHz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130337

Case - $107 shipped. Not the best price on this case, but using newegg for pictures and information. Can usually be had for about $85 or so.
COOLER MASTER RC-690-KKN1-GP Black SECC/ ABS ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119137

PSU - $110 shipped!! One of the best PSU's in this price range. Has 49A on the 12V rail, so to say the least, you'll be able to "easily" handle any singe GPU solution out on the market today and into the future.
PC Power & Cooling S610EPS EPS12V 610W Continuous @ 40°C Power Supply 100 - 240 V UL, cUL, CE, CB, TUV - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703005

Memory - $116 shipped! One of the better companies to buy from. This is CAS 4 DDR2 800mHz stuff, so you'll be covered when you decide to OC your system.
Crucial Ballistix 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148183

HD - $130 shipped! One of the fastest HD's out right now. Has plenty of room to start and if you need more space, just buy now or add another drive later.
Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD6400AAKS 640GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136218

DVD ROM - $24 shipped. I'd use for primary drive when burning CD/DVD's. Nice to have so you can just install source disk into and drop the blank CD/DVD into the burner and just walk away (if you want to).
LITE-ON Black 16X DVD-ROM SATA DVD-ROM Drive Model DH-16D2S-04 - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106095

DVD Burner - $33 shipped!! Retail version, so you'll have the necessary software included. This will allow you to read/write DVD's. This drive would/could be used as a secondary drive, so you can burn to it. There are other brands, but I've had "zero" problems with LiteOn drives in the last 4 years.
LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA DVD Burner with LightScribe - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106072

***Optional***
CPU HSF - $37 shipped! This is one of the better CPU HSF coolers out right now. It's not the very best, but is very close and doesn't cost a small fortune to get.
XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 120mm Rifle CPU Cooler - Retail
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233003
review from Frosty's:
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2233

OS - $99 shipped. Might as well go 64 bit OS, since more and more programs will take advantage of 4 gb's or more of memory.
Microsoft Windows Vista 64-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116204

Total ~$1376 - $60 MIR's = $1316!!! Now you can get other options, if you need them, but I believe this setup will give you the best bang for the buck and still give you some longevity too, especially if you cash in on the 90 day "Step Up" program from eVga.
 


Six months ago, I would have agreed with you, not now. The Raptor's 87 MB/s Max DTR is a bit paltry compared to todays hi density drives in the 120 MB/sec neighborhood. The Raptor may regain its crown when and if WD puts it's hi density platters from the WD6400 in the 10k mechanics but this hasn't happened yet. Of course all your reasons for going to 10k would also apply to going further to 15k and there are still some real advantages to be had in that arena. Going to 150 GB 15k SCSI ($230) has a price impact from the $175 10k Raptor, but no where near as much as going from 7200 $45) to 10k ($175) but the rotational speed advantage compared to 7200 is 2.08 versus 1.39

Two things the Raptor is still good at:

1. Bootup Time - During bootup, the OS laods and that means accessing mucho small files. The Raptors access time helps a lot here.
2. Small File Database Access - For the reasons above, the Raptor is great at accessing lots of small files.

HD speed is affected by several factors.

1. Cache size - the larger the cache, the less the thing has to resort to actually reading the disk.
2. RPM - the faster it rotates, the more area of diosk can pass under the heads per revolution.
3. Areal Density - the tighter the data is packed on the disk, the more data gets read ina single resolution

How fast data comes off the disk = rpm x areal density

It's hard to judge the Raptor's areal density because they don't use a full size platter. The 150/160GB Raptors have only 75/80 GB per platter. The Samsung F1 / WD6400 have 320-334 GB per platter. So in one revolution, a lot more data passes under the heads on these hi density platters than passes under the heads of the Raptor. It's not four times as much cause WD doesn't use a full size platter but it's well above 2. This compares with the Raptor's 39% advantage in rotational speed. Most of the hi density drives also have a 2:1 cache size advantage over the Raptor .

Well all is said and done, the hi density platter drives move data under the heads about 36% faster than the Raptor.

As for the rest, two points are relevant:

1. The OP was ready to spend $5k on a "hot shop" prebuilt system.
2. I get the impression the box gonna be around longer than 2 years.

For a box to be kept for 2 years, I'd be "spot on" with everything you said about technology maturation and bang for buck. But for a system which will be kept for 3-5 years, I am more inclined to agree w/ the folks at Anandtech. http://www.anandtech.com/mb/showdoc.aspx?i=3283&p=21

"If you're still buying DDR2 and you're serious about overclocking, you're buying yesterday's technology. That might be fine for the price-conscious enthusiasts, but if you're considering the purchase of a $300+ motherboard and $1000 CPU we have to strongly recommend making the move to DDR3. It's also worth noting that once Intel's Nehalem architecture hits the market - which should occur later this year - you can kiss DDR2 compatibility on the latest Intel platforms goodbye. "

There's two points worth noting in that article:

1. If you are building a system with DDR2, they are essentially "throw aways" since this is the last build you will get to use them on. Nehalem is only months away.
2. If you are building a double, triple or quad SLI solution, DDR3 really gets a chance to "show it's stuff".

So to my mind "2" is an important number:

- 2 or more video cards and you do see a performance boost, so the price premium for DDR3 may be worth considering
- 2 or more years of intended use for your new build, the price premium for DDR3 may be worth considering

It's not gonna be for everyone, but for those keeping their systems a long time or with an inclination to go for the best performance regardless of cost, DDR3 seems worthy of consideration.

Of course, on the other side.....

With Nehalem around the corner, if ya wanna spend all that money, maybe you wanna wait a few more months. I am more inclined to buy at the end of a socket lifecycle as new socket's don't get maxed out for a while. While the option to upgrade a processor has always seemed a good idea to me, in practice I have only done it once as usually when I want a new processor, there's something else I want that requires a new MoBo.

All 790i boards have a BIOS / base driver issue ATM whereby some overclocks are just "quirky" and wind up trashing your disk image . Go higher or lower and no problem but soem combos at this time just seem to go nuts. nVidia is working with MoBo vendors to work it out.

 
You could listen to JackNaylorPE and get yourself a Samsung Spinpoint F1,

Or you could listen to all of the guys on this forum:

http://forums.vr-zone.com/showthread.php?t=252374

You could listen to JackNaylorPE try to convince you that $500-$700 spent for DDR3 RAM is the best solution to future proof your rig for the next 3-5 years or you could spend $115 on high density DDR2 and run it as fast as all of the current DDR3 out there. By the time DDR3 catches up in price/performance we will be 2 years down the line and you will be ready for your next build. The benchmarks prove that DDR3 systems perform on average 5-10% faster than DDR2 systems (and that 10% is a stretch).. This does not sound like future proofing to me.

BW11

 
ARRRRRGHHHH!

Guys, so sorry for not responding earlier. Well actually I tried - many times. And nothing was showing up.

Not until I spent time posting this new thread here in the new systems build area:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/250366-31-first-system-build-years-brain-clot-forming

...did the replies show up here. :heink:

I'm not sure what/how that could possible happen unless there is some wierd bug that came out as part of the site upgrade.

Either way, THANKS so far for all the help and I look forward to any comments on the new thread.

:sweat:
 
ARRRRGHHHH! Part deux.

Now even more replies show up. I've not read them yet and the new thread I started in the new systems build area was info I tried to gather before I could see all your responses.

I will incorporate them there (or follow-up with questions) once I read them all.

I tried refreshing this thread the last few days from fiancees laptop, friends desktop, and work - and no luck. Not until I posted that new thread did everything trickle on through.

Oy vey.

Reading now :)
 
Do yourself a favor, and DO IT YOURSELF!!!! My boss is a man who has to have the best of everything. Every year he upgrades his system. For the past 3 years I have "custom" built his systems, but for reasons unknown he decided to go with an 11g Alienware ALX. Granted the case looks cool, and has a bunch of fancy stuff on it, but performance wise, and stability it sux. The system I built him last year beats it in EVERY benchmark. It even plays Crysis better. And my personal system AMD Phenom 9600BE, and a pair of 3870s keeps up, or bests that beast in a lot of Benchmarks. So he got me to redo his windows install and everything from scratch. Gone are the stability issues, and I increased his performance a fair bit. When I tore it down we were both surprised to find that the dual 8800 Ultras were NOT watercooled like Alienware was strongly suggesting and hinting at in all of their promotional materials.
Long story short. That's the last time he'll buy Alienware or Dell, and it just re-affirmed my position that a Box Brand just doesn't have the time to spend making sure your computer is "perfect" before it goes out to you. Even if you spend 11g on it.
 
ha ha u want to buy a dell. to bad u DONT know ANYTHING!!! about computers go back to commodore 64 insert tape and start all over again LMFAO 😛