[SOLVED] Hot CPU and GPU Need fix Help

[David E 1774]

My desktop is every hot for some reason and i clean the dust multiple times and it still stays hot while idling the GPU is 32c and my CPU 57c the fan speed is at 60% and when I'm gaming a basic game like League of Legends the CPU goes up to 79c to 80c and my GPU is at 37c to 40c I have the basic cpu fan that it came with in the box. My CPU was released in 2012 but bought it new in 2016

Computer Type: Desktop

Operating System: Windows 10 Pro
Version: 10.0.18363 Build 18363

CPU: AMD FX(tm)-6300 six core Processor 3.50GHz with (stock fan) factory settings

GPU: GPU: Asus Strix-R9380-DC2OC-4GD5-GAMING (Factory Settings)
Short: AMD Radeon (TM) R9 380 Series

Motherboard: MSI 970 GAMING (MS-7693)
Factory settings

BIOS Mode: UEFI
BIOS Version: American Megatrends Inc. V22.3 5/12/2015

PSU: Sea Sonic S12II-620 Bronze 80+ 620 Watts about three years old and it’s in good condition

Ram - 1st stick 4gb 2nd stick- 8gb (different manufactures)

Storage: 1 TB hard drive, 120GB SSD (windows on SSD)

Have a DVD burner but it’s not connected

 

[Phaaze88]

I don't see anything saying the GPU is hot. If it's hitting 85C, then you can claim the gpu is hot.

The cpu report is invalid because you're using the wrong temp reading. Those old cpus didn't use the traditional method, and thus many apps reported inaccurate thermals.
Check it again using AMD Overdrive: https://www.techspot.com/downloads/4645-amd-overdrive.html

The FX-6300 has a 'Distance to TJMax' limit of 70.5C. This means as it warms up, the value will COUNT DOWN from 70.5C. Therefore, core values below 10C, 0, and negative numbers(yes, those can appear too) are bad.

 

[David E 1774]

I don't see anything saying the GPU is hot. If it's hitting 85C, then you can claim the gpu is hot.

The cpu report is invalid because you're using the wrong temp reading. Those old cpus didn't use the traditional method, and thus many apps reported inaccurate thermals.
Check it again using AMD Overdrive: https://www.techspot.com/downloads/4645-amd-overdrive.html

The FX-6300 has a 'Distance to TJMax' limit of 70.5C. This means as it warms up, the value will COUNT DOWN from 70.5C. Therefore, core values below 10C, 0, and negative numbers(yes, those can appear too) are bad.

I got amd overdrive and it now says that its at 20c not 65-80c before i was using msi after burnner to see my temps

 

[Phaaze88]

Looks like thermals are all well and good then.

 

[David E 1774]

Looks like thermals are all well and good then.

Do I have to worry about TMPIN 2, TMPIN 3, TMPIN 4 as they all are at 247c, 248c, 234c
also when i was exporting a video the cpu core 0,1,2,3,4,5, temps went to -6.5c while my tmpin1 is at 32c

 

[Phaaze88]

Do I have to worry about TMPIN 2, TMPIN 3, TMPIN 4 as they all are at 247c, 248c, 234c

No.

cpu core 0,1,2,3,4,5, temps went to -6.5c

The cores getting that low IS a problem.
Have you cleaned out the PC lately?
Have at least rear and top exhaust fans running in there?

 

[David E 1774]

No.


The cores getting that low IS a problem.
Have you cleaned out the PC lately?
Have at least rear and top exhaust fans running in there?

I dusted it off a 6-8 weeks ago and got a big piece of dust off of the cpu fan and another fan.

I only have three fans , the cpu one, one fan in the back top that takes air out(exhaust) and one in the bottom front that brings air in (intake?) but is cover by the the storage cage for my hard drive and ssd . I do not have no top exhaust fans. ( and the gpu has two but its facing away from the cpu)

could it be that my room it gets supper cold my walls get to 15 c while them room temp gets to 19-20 c

also I cant restart my computer or turn it off at all even if i put it in sleep mode for a few seconds as I wont be able to get a signal

when i had to restart my computer for the amd overdrive it would not give me signal and today my mouse would not exit an application so i tried to restart it with the button but it would not give me a signal but would turn on my led mouse pad and my led mouse sometimes but no signal

SO i have to do this to get a signal. ( basically when my computer does not want to give me a signal i need to disconnected the power cable for the psu. Then I disconnected the gpu power cable then turn it on (while the gpu power cable is disconnected) then turn it off. then i have to plug the gpu power cable back in and hope to get a signal i might have to do it a few times.

i leave my computer on 24/7 but have a timer after 1-2 mins it turns off the monitor

so my desktop was idling at 32-42c but when i launch minecraft it drop down to 20c and when i'm in the pause screen and while playing in a world it goes down to (-10c)-(-2c)

if this can only be fix with an upgrade I'm fine getting a new motherboard and cpu and ram ( I have ddr3 ram and my hardware are outdated with a cpu from 2012 with ddr3 ram and a motherboard that limits my ram usage and may have a good connection to my gou which might be the reason it does not give me signal )

there's also a weird looking stain on my motherboard and I don't know what cause it.

the thing is i don't want to upgraded and my computer to not give me signal

 

[Phaaze88]

Pardon the multi quote...

I only have three fans , the cpu one, one fan in the back top that takes air out(exhaust) and one in the bottom front that brings air in (intake?) but is cover by the the storage cage for my hard drive and ssd . I do not have no top exhaust fans. ( and the gpu has two but its facing away from the cpu)
so my desktop was idling at 32-42c but when i launch minecraft it drop down to 20c and when i'm in the pause screen and while playing in a world it goes down to (-10c)-(-2c)

Throttling in a pause menu... whoa.
2 more fans up top would help, due to how top-down air coolers function. Although simply replacing it with a tower air cooler would likely see a greater improvement, and if your particular chassis doesn't allow for top fans, then all the more for getting a tower cooler.

could it be that my room it gets supper cold my walls get to 15 c while them room temp gets to 19-20 c

Not an issue at all, except if you have problem with dew build up in your room, in which case, you'd need a humidifier or air conditioner.
Water and electronics don't mix, after all.

also I cant restart my computer or turn it off at all even if i put it in sleep mode for a few seconds as I wont be able to get a signal
when i had to restart my computer for the amd overdrive it would not give me signal and today my mouse would not exit an application so i tried to restart it with the button but it would not give me a signal but would turn on my led mouse pad and my led mouse sometimes but no signal
SO i have to do this to get a signal. ( basically when my computer does not want to give me a signal i need to disconnected the power cable for the psu. Then I disconnected the gpu power cable then turn it on (while the gpu power cable is disconnected) then turn it off. then i have to plug the gpu power cable back in and hope to get a signal i might have to do it a few times.

I suspect drivers and the power supply.
That psu, while good back in the day... older ones like it behaved a little funky with certain power saving features - especially sleep states/mode. The alternative is to disable sleep.
Also, when's the last time you 'flushed out' Windows? It's probably time to clean 'er out: https://forums.tomshardware.com/faq/windows-10-clean-install-tutorial.3170366/

It could also be that the coin battery in the mobo needs replacing. Does bios display an up to date time?

there's also a weird looking stain on my motherboard and I don't know what cause it.

Without some kind of visual, it's hard to say, but since you haven't been using any hybrid or liquid coolers, it's most likely oil that bled out from the thermal pads. It's harmless, a common occurrence, and can be rubbed out with alcohol and some elbow grease.

the thing is i don't want to upgraded and my computer to not give me signal

Sometimes it can't be helped; all isn't as it seems.
Try to explore all possible troubleshooting avenues before it gets to that.

 

[David E 1774]

I’m gonna order the fans off of Amazon or Newegg. When I install them should they be taking air out or bringing air in? I was going to get an tower air cooler but I don’t know if it’s going to work if my socket (am3+)

No dew build up in my house

I’m updating the drivers with the windows and with the software (DriverHub, and driver easy, and driver talent, lastly Patch My PC Updater )


For my psu should I get the same wattage or higher with my hardware and usage

Also, when's the last time you 'flushed out' Windows?

The last time that I have flushed out windows was back in December of 2019 as I was getting this error code and wanted to move windows to my ssd then having it with my hard drive it was something to do with windows C+. A simple reinstall of windows fixed it as I also wipe everything off my drives to be fresh.

Does bios display an up to date time?

I think what you meant by this is “does bios display any update at this time “
If you meant that I’m currently looking into the bios update and how to do it as I’m two or one updates behind.

Before i update the bios hopefully the new psu with the right wattage will fix the problem for not giving me signal each time I boot up my desktop

Even before I has this problem I was thinking about an upgrade anway as my cpu is pretty old but it gets the job done

 

[Phaaze88]

I’m gonna order the fans off of Amazon or Newegg. When I install them should they be taking air out or bringing air in? I was going to get an tower air cooler but I don’t know if it’s going to work if my socket (am3+)

1)Taking out.
2)There are many coolers that work with socket AM3+. You just need to know the max height allowed for your particular chassis.

I’m updating the drivers with the windows and with the software (DriverHub, and driver easy, and driver talent, lastly Patch My PC Updater )

Oh no... that's probably part of your problem.
Uninstall all that, and install all your drivers manually from now on. It's just bloatware - some of them don't even do what they're advertised to do, even going as far as to install the wrong drivers.

For my psu should I get the same wattage or higher with my hardware and usage

There's more to it than that, plus: quality > quantity. Disable sleep settings in the meantime.
This site has a psu tier list available for simplicity's sake:

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

I think what you meant by this is “does bios display any update at this time “

No, what I meant was that bios show you the correct date and time.
If it's not, that would mean the coin battery needed to be replaced.

Even before I has this problem I was thinking about an upgrade anway as my cpu is pretty old but it gets the job done

Sounds like a plan! It would be best not to invest more money into the old AM3+ platform, if you can help it.

 

[David E 1774]

2)There are many coolers that work with socket AM3+. You just need to know the max height allowed for your particular chassis.

After measuring the space i have and looking online for the best price I'm gonna go with the noctua NH-U9S. Should I still get two top fans as I'm getting the noctua NH-U9S

This site has a psu tier list available for simplicity's sake:

Article - [psucultists] PSU tier list rev. 14.8 (Final Update Jul '21)

PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 14.8 (outdated) Last Update: 12-07-2021 Legend : Gray - EoL/obsolete and/or otherwise not recommended for purchase. Green - small form-factor (gold and blue colors are disregarded due to scarcity of SFX PSUs) Gold - best units in the tier (includes requirements for blue...

forums.tomshardware.com

After much searching I'm gonna go with the Corsair CX-M Series CX650M 650W 80 Plus Bronze

Uninstall all that, and install all your drivers manually from now on. It's just bloatware - some of them don't even do what they're advertised to do, even going as far as to install the wrong drivers.

I uninstall all of that so For the drivers I went to device manger and click updated drivers on the ones that had them and they all said that I have the best one's possible

No, what I meant was that bios show you the correct date and time.
If it's not, that would mean the coin battery needed to be replaced.

I cant get to the bios without restarting and it might not give me a signal so until i get the psu I won't be checking the bios.

 

[Phaaze88]

After measuring the space i have and looking online for the best price I'm gonna go with the noctua NH-U9S. Should I still get two top fans as I'm getting the noctua NH-U9S

With a tower cooler, things change; it doesn't follow quite the same rules as a top-down model does. 2 top fans won't benefit a tower cooler, but it would benefit the gpu, but at the cost of slightly worse performance from the tower cooler.

After much searching I'm gonna go with the Corsair CX-M Series CX650M 650W 80 Plus Bronze

A-OK!

I uninstall all of that so For the drivers I went to device manger and click updated drivers on the ones that had them and they all said that I have the best one's possible

I would double-check that to be sure: https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/support/970-GAMING#undefined

I cant get to the bios without restarting and it might not give me a signal so until i get the psu I won't be checking the bios.

That's peculiar... but ok.

 

[David E 1774]

2 top fans won't benefit a tower cooler, but it would benefit the gpu, but at the cost of slightly worse performance from the tower cooler.

As it will slightly make it worse i will just stick to the tower cooler

I would double-check that to be sure

I double-check for the drives and its for a sound driver which i uninstall so its only the killer network driver I wanted to update but every time i try to update it. it keep saying that I have the best drivers for your device are already installed when thought its not the best one and I keep trying to do it manually

That's peculiar... but ok.

I was afraid to restart the computer that it was not going to give me a signal but I did anyways to see if I could get into the bios and I was able to get in and out without a problem and saw that the date & time are correct

I'm somewhat smart with technology but just the basic stuff so correct me if I'm wrong I just thinking that its the psu that is not letting me get a signal every time I bootup as I don't think a network drive gonna stop the computer giving a signal.

 

[Phaaze88]

I double-check for the drives and its for a sound driver which i uninstall so its only the killer network driver I wanted to update but every time i try to update it. it keep saying that I have the best drivers for your device are already installed when thought its not the best one and I keep trying to do it manually

I got nothing, so I could only say ok.

I just thinking that its the psu that is not letting me get a signal every time I bootup as I don't think a network drive gonna stop the computer giving a signal.

If that were the case, I would expect it to be more consistent - with dropping the signal, I mean.
But the signal dropping during sleep and not coming back does sound like the psu.
So there's more than one thing occurring in there.

 

[David E 1774]

But the signal dropping during sleep and not coming back does sound like the psu.
So there's more than one thing occurring in there.

So we know that once I shut it down or put it in sleep after a while lets say 2-5 mins it would not give signal and sometimes when restarting.
Also there was a time it wont give me a signal but my mouse pad led would turn on but not the led to my mouse one time it was the whole mouse and another time when it was just the logo and sometimes the mouse wont even have the leds on which makes me more believe its the psu.

For a while the signal dropping was consistent when it first started. I did my little hack and it would work don't know why but it would work

Another thing is I have an optical drive and while I was playing with the wires I disconnected it(data and power cable) and never connected it

I don't know what the other thing could be just saying random things I will get an update when I get the psu and noctua NH-U9S and see if the psu fixes the signal dropping

 

[Phaaze88]

Another thing you can do is a clean boot: https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows
Follow step by step, then see if you can get it to black out on you. If nothing happens, then you enable 1 non-Microsoft service at a time and see which one(s) trigger it.

 

[David E 1774]

Another thing you can do is a clean boot: https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/929135/how-to-perform-a-clean-boot-in-windows
Follow step by step, then see if you can get it to black out on you. If nothing happens, then you enable 1 non-Microsoft service at a time and see which one(s) trigger it.

I follow it step by step and I was able to enable all non- microsoft service without getting it to black out on me I had none the first time then add one restart add another restart add another restart and it boot up finely could it be a few days ago i turned off all the background apps the microsoft has? I'm feeling more confident about restarting the computer should i test to see how long it can be turn off for before it does not give out a signal output. Like shut it down set a timer for 5 min and boot it up to see if it will give me signal ? would that be useful in any way

 

[Phaaze88]

1)I was following along just fine, but you kind of lost me here:

could it be a few days ago i turned off all the background apps the microsoft has?

2)With only the Microsoft services enabled, it doesn't black screen on you when you try to play games?

 

[David E 1774]

)I was following along just fine, but you kind of lost me here:

I went to settings then privacy then background apps or just search it in the search bar (background apps) I turn all of the apps off. i was saying could the background apps be causing the no signal but the more i think about it the less it makes sense

2)With only the Microsoft services enabled, it doesn't black screen on you when you try to play games?

I'm going to do a clean boot again and restart and play a match of league of legends but I doubt that its gonna crash as it hasn't happened.

It only crash on two occasions the first one was few years 4-5 back when we first got it as a ram stick was defective so we got another ram stick and that one was defective too so i stick to 4 gb for a while and then got 8 gb stick to have 12gb.

this was also a few years back 1-2 when I can blame this on overheating as the cpu stock fan and other fans where cover up in dust (overheating) but before i cleaned it my solution was to up the fan speed then i cleaned it then keep the fan speed at 60% when i played games as this only happened after it was 25-30 mins in the game

 

[Phaaze88]

I went to settings then privacy then background apps or just search it in the search bar (background apps) I turn all of the apps off. i was saying could the background apps be causing the no signal but the more i think about it the less it makes sense

I see now.
No, those aren't major.

It only crash on two occasions the first one was few years 4-5 back when we first got it as a ram stick was defective so we got another ram stick and that one was defective too so i stick to 4 gb for a while and then got 8 gb stick to have 12gb.

It's also possible the new sticks weren't compatible. Ram is only guaranteed to work as sold, and if you add on, you're basically taking a gamble.

 

[David E 1774]

you're basically taking a gamble.

Hopefully I win

Update I played Minecraft and League of Legends and it did not crash or give me a black screen

lets say they aren't compatible wouldn't it will just read one ram stick instead of both or wouldn't it crash in games or wouldn't boot up at all (signal)

 

[Phaaze88]

Update I played Minecraft and League of Legends and it did not crash or give me a black screen

Then that would mean one of the disabled services is causing the black screens?

lets say they aren't compatible wouldn't it will just read one ram stick instead of both or wouldn't it crash in games or wouldn't boot up at all (signal)

No, that's not how incompatible ram works.
When multiple sticks aren't compatible, they tend to cause things like BSODs and system freezes. Over time, they can even corrupt the OS.
Memtest86 free version is a means to troubleshoot this: https://www.memtest86.com/
Run it overnight, because it can take a few hours to complete. Results should be error-free, and without system hangs or crashes.

 

[David E 1774]

Then that would mean one of the disabled services is causing the black screens?

it wasn’t crashing with them on either it can’t be a Application(s)

Run it overnight,

it’s running right now 2/4 on test 5 41% pass

during it first one it said this “[Note] RAM may be vulnerable to high frequency row hammer bit flips

no errors so far

 

[Phaaze88]

it wasn’t crashing with them on either it can’t be a Application(s)

So it magically fixed itself... well, that CAN happen, though uncommon.

it’s running right now 2/4 on test 5 41% pass

during it first one it said this “[Note] RAM may be vulnerable to high frequency row hammer bit flips

no errors so far

That note is new. Did they update the free version recently?
I ran that just last month myself and didn't see that.

Aside from that, so far so good.

 

[David E 1774]

That note is new. Did they update the free version recently?

I have the V8.4 Free

It’s now on test 8 still in 2/4 no errors looking good so far update when it’s finished