Hyper 212 Evo thermal paste application

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jtomsh

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Jul 3, 2008
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Hello,

I'm getting ready to build a new computer and the only thing that I really am nervous about is installing the Hyper 212 EVO onto the CPU (i5 3570). I've read a lot about the best way to apply thermal paste but I wanted to pick the community's brain one more time to see if anyone has installed this specific cooler before.

I think I'm probably going to just do the small dot of paste on the center of the CPU and then apply the cooler, but I've heard others talk about adding a small amount of paste to the cooler first, or just applying the dot to the cooler. Anyone have any insight? Thanks!
 
I by accident (had to reapply a few times, to get cooler lined up correctly in case) discovered what I think is the prefect method for the 212 evo.

Since I had to reapply the paste 4 times (Was a pain keeping bottom plate lined up inside of case), I was able to see the results of each of my attempted methods, and, all of the gaps on the bottom of the 212 evo filled in with paste I couldn't (didn't try) remove.

So, first I tried the "Dot method": When I removed, the area covered was a joke. Clearly, not the best method for this heatsink.

Next I did the "2 line method": When I removed it looked better than the dot had, but, it still had some very obvious flaws, such as spots towards the top that both lines didn't connect.

For my 3 attempt I went with a "X": Now I was getting somewhere, when I removed it, I could tell I hadn't applied enough, but, it clearly had the best coverage of the 3 methods I tried.

The 4th and final time I used the "X" method again, but, this time I used more paste, from edge to edge (stopping about 1/8 - 1/4 inch from each corner). While installing, since I was doing it inside of my case, the cooler did slip around on the cpu, further spreading the paste. Secured it nice and tight.

So, I personally suggest, fill in any gaps on the bottom of your "CM hyper 212 evo", then use the x method I mentioned above.

After installation, getting it all up and running, I oc'ed my FX-8230 to 4.0 on stock voltage (could go more I'm sure on stock) and ran prime95 for 1 hour. My CPU temps maxed out at 37c, had to of done something right.

*I have my evo setup for pushing towards the rear of the case. I liked the idea of pointing it towards the top of the case, but, that would suck in GPU heat, and be counterproductive IMO. Below I'll post some temps after Downloading, installing, and playing Diablo 3 for 2 hours, notice my CPU temps maxed at 35c, this is the highest my CPU temp has gone, other than while running prime95.

xy26.jpg





 
From what I see on
http://www.arcticsilver.com/methods.html

The TIM application varies from CPU to CPU. Based on this fact I would assume application is more CPU dependent than TIM dependent. This is just theory-crafting based on the information given, I don't see any other conclusions to be reached.

From what I gather from the AS/methods site, is that the size and shape of the CPU DIE underneath the heat spreader determines how you should apply TIM. Mobile CPUs for example are designed so that the entire heat spreader interfaces with the DIE, so you would use the spread method while on a desktop I7 you'd use the line/long grain method, making sure you had coverage above all 2-4 cores, while the older P4s had more square (as opposed to rectangular) DIEs, so the pea-size method is better.

As for the actual paste, I'm planning to use Shin-Etsu MicroSI X23-7783D. The reason is it's expected to have a longer life than most any other high performance TIM. I don't want to have to do re-applications on my own PC, much less any PCs I need to service.

Right now I'm trying to find out if tinting my Hyper 212 Evo is the way to go. Not 100% sure on this, but it sounds like "tinting" your heatsink is a wise move, although I think it depends on your situation.
 
I have installed the Cooler Master 212 Hyper Evo on my 4670K CPU using the stock thermal paste. My MB is the Gigabyte Z87X-D3H and I have a light 4.2Ghz OC.

I found that ambient temperature makes a very large difference in my CPU temp at load and idle using that Cooler. I used the rice size dot method when applying the paste and it worked great.

When my room is 70F my 4670k will run at 48-52C under load. When idle it will run at about 29C.

If I bring my room temperature to 78F my CPU will run at around 58-60C

I use a Antec 900 with fans on mid setting besidesthe top fan, I run that at the low setting.

I've found that no matter what Cooler I use the risesize dot is the best way to go. I don't spread it or anything. I let the heatsync pressure do the work.

Tinting the heatsync isn't going to do much but I must say. The paste your going to use is what I'll be going with next time I clean my PC. As it's the best stuff you can get IMO. But the cooler master paste that comes with the Evo is much better then I thought it was going to be. It also gets good reviews.

Good luck
 


Just a small thin line that would be around the size of 3 rice grains long. Or the pea size dot.

I've found that the very small line or a small dot that's no more then 3 grains of rice is the best overall amount of paste you want.

The EVO 212 is built better as the heat pipes are at the same level so your not going to need anymore paste then a few gains of rice.

After looking at mine after about 4 months of use and a OC of 4.4 Ghz. The smaller size works much better then the bigger pea size amount. Since you must remember this is only to fill in the un even and micro sized surface lines, ect that you can't even see with you're eyes.

I've also noticed that if you use more you end up running hotter. Due to the extra paste not curing right so tiny air bubbles and other things like the heat pipes not making full contact.

I've seen people use so much paste then not even have the thing mounted tight enough. So they start to see it oozing out then stop before they tighten it correctly, so it ends up moving all over the place and even becomes uneven due to the weight. And that can really mess it up and you run 80C rather then 60C so always go easy with the paste and make sure you take your time when you place it and screw one side a little then go to the other side a little. You keep doing that until it is not going to move.

And since it uses a spring, you don't have to worry much at all about putting too much force. As the spring will not allow it to put to much pressure on your CPU.

This is more for people that are not mechanically inclined. Or are new to all of this.

I notice that my i5 4670k at 4.4Ghz is running hotter how that I picked up the last part of my build. The last main part anyway.

I picked up a Asus PB278Q (2014/2015) I got it over the other few 2560x1440p monitor's out there due to it having the lowest input lag and pixel response time, along with no PWM Flicker. And the new AHVA panel. I've used the BenQ monitor with the AHVA panel and seen the potential it has.

But the Asus PB278Q 2014 has faster input and response time that can best the fastest TN 60hz panels out there.

27" IPS that plays like the fastest TN 60hz just sounded good to me. And I'm loving the monitor. But my CPU is working about 20% more then my old 1080p TN monitor. But I don't notice much more heat at all. But in BF4 my CPU runs up to 80% now. While before it would max at 60-70% so I'm not sure what will bottleneck this thing. The only time it's been even close is in ArcheAge massive PvP open world battles. And even then it was not maxed. But it had all the cores at about 80% for the whole battle.

So I'm thinking about getting a second Gigabyte R9 290 but I've never had a dual card rig for more then a few months.


If anything I think when the time is needed. I will just build a new rig.

All I know is I'm getting the new LG curved Ultra Wide screen monitor once the price drops because that thing is just awesome.

Then again I'm happy with my monitor so I'll wait for 144hz 30" curved monitors.

I just had to bring it up due to the coolness of it.