Question I do not have an electrical outlet with grounding protection system. The motherboard may fail over time?

Mihai12345X

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Sep 8, 2023
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I do not have an electrical outlet with grounding protection system. The motherboard may fail over time??Thanks in advance!:ouch::rofl:
 
I do not have an electrical outlet with grounding protection system. The motherboard may fail over time??Thanks in advance!:ouch::rofl:
No, it won't have an effect on motherboard life.

The ground is connected to the metal case of the PSU and, in turn, to the metal case of the computer. The safety value from grounding is should a short develop inside the PSU that connects line power to the metal case it will blow a fuse. With no ground wire in the outlet, it will not blow the fuse and that allows the case to be at a hazardous voltage. If you should then touch both the case and a grounded device (water pipe for instance) you could be electrocuted.

The fix for safety is to put a GFI outlet in that outlet box, either that or put the entire circuit on a GFI breaker in the load panel. GFI's are preferable to grounding for safety anyway since they will disconnect power even with very small unbalanced current flows and respond even if it's a resistive short to ground inside the PSU and not enough to blow the circuit breaker (usually 15A).
 
You wouldn't catch me dead (pun intended) operating an ATX PSU powered system on an AC supply with no safety earth for any length of time. If you have a central heating system with radiators fed by metal pipes, or some other earthed metal work nearby, connect a grounding wire to your PC and render it safe.

If you brush the back of your index finger across any bare metal parts of a desktop PC with no earth and the power applied, you may detect a slight "buzz" (mild electric shock) due to current bleeding through the Class-Y EMI/RFI capacitors connected from Line and Neutral down to chassis inside the ATX PSU.

Normally this current (up to several mA) flows harmlessly down to ground on a properly earthed system. It's unlikely to do you any real harm, but it's a warning none-the-less.
https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/safety-capacitor-class-x-and-class-y-capacitors/

If you have an electrician's screwdriver containing a neon or LED, you might get it to light up when touching the tip to an un-earthed computer chassis. This will not happen on a system with a good earth connection. Alternatively, if you have a multimeter, set it to measure AC Volts and see if there is any indication.

You could hammer a long metal rod into the ground outside (better still bury an earth mat) and connect it to your house safety earth. This assumes you're not living in an apartment on the 10th floor of a tower block.
https://www.wikihow.com/Install-Ground-Rods

Do yourself (and your family) a favour and sort out the earthing ASAP. If not, see you in the next life. Best wishes.
 
It's common to have the neutral and ground bars bonded inside the main panel, it might even be code. (on subpanels the bars must remain separate) Because of this, I've seen people install newer outlets into homes that did not have a ground and will use a jumper wire on the outlet connecting the neutral side to the ground. This will pass the light test (the little plug in tester thingy) and tell you the outlet is grounded. Helps folks pass inspection in older homes, but this is still a bad idea and not allowed in most places. This is all based on US knowledge, I can't speak on other countries.

Will the lack of a ground damage your motherboard overtime? Technically no, but it does increase the risk of damage because there is no protection. If you are unable to run a new wire through the wall or don't want to pay an electrician, then installing a GFI/GFCI as already mentioned is a good idea. It is a simple task but don't do it if you don't feel comfortable. I've bought two houses that had no grounds; the first one I replaced every single wire and outlet in the entire house (I did a full remodel) plus installed a whole house surge protector on the main panel. The second and current house I've only replaced a few so far, mainly to my room of computer equipment/office. Most of my walls are concrete and it's a pain pulling wire through it. If you install your own grounding rod, keep in mind it needs to be 8' into the ground. There's a chance you already have one despite the old house, as newer equipment like water meters (newer wireless meters) and whatnot installed over time would've needed a ground. Heck, even cable companies now ground the coax coming in.
 
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Normally this current (up to several mA) flows harmlessly down to ground on a properly earthed system.
Disagree, it's not normal if it does. If it did then a GFI, which trips at only a couple of mili-amps, would trip if the circuit is protected by one. For that type of protection, a GFI is much better. GFI's work by comparing current in the hot and neutral current paths; if not equal they will trip. Any current flowing back through the safety ground means it can't be flowing back through the neutral (Kirchoff's law) .

Safety grounding is useful... GFI's can degrade over time and need replacing for one thing... but putting one on a circuit is orders of magnitude cheaper than re-wiring a house for it. And it's much better for safety, for the reason above. It's even permitted in the NEC (US) to allow the installation of three-wire outlets to interface with appliances (you need to put a label on all such outlets on the circuit though) and required in new construction along with safety grounds.
 
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It's interesting to learn about the differences between house wiring standards around the world. Where I live, the term GFI is not commonly used. Instead, modern houses have a 20mA or 30mA RCD (Residual Current Breaker) or as I still call it, an ELCB (Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker). The main breaker associated with the RCD sensor is normally rated at 100A (on a nominal 230V AC supply) and covers a subsidiary 30A ring mains plus several spurs to cookers and shower heaters. Most houses have a minimum of two 100A breakers and two 30A ring mains, one downstairs, the other upstairs.

I accept the leakage current from most ATX PSUs is probably down in the tens or hundreds of micro Amps, but I do remember one system I was involved in designing where we had to replace the 30mA RCD with a 100mA industrial version, due to very high leakage currents in various systems. Not "safe" but the customer accepted it.

Bigger ATX PSUs over 1kW sometimes contain more than two Class-Y capacitors with the potential for slightly higher leakage currents. If you have multiple computers connected to the mains as I do, plus various dozens of other devices, all the small leakage currents start to add up. Presumably this is why we have 20mA or 30mA 100A RCD breakers instead of 2mA GFIs? I shall have do some more research about US systems.

It's the law where I live that all domestic residences have a mains safety earth, usually connected to a metal gas or water pipe where the mains supply enters the premises. Alternatively a professionally installed earth rod is hammered into the soil at a minimum specified distance from the house, where the soil is usually be damp (we have a rainy climate).
 
It's interesting to learn about the differences between house wiring standards around the world. ...
It's even more interesting how house wiring standards have changed over time. The problem always will be that houses, or installed electrification more precisely, don't change with them unless someone pays for it. It's simply unfeasible to expect homeowners to rewire to updated standards as they roll out every couple of years. Especially as they change with new technology adoption. Three-wire safety grounded outlets were added in some distant past, probably the 60's, GFI's (RCD's) were introduced in the 70's or 80's, arc fault interrupters (AFI's) much more recently.

And to be sure, all homes have been equipped with earth grounds (two actually) since well before the 60's, and utility rooms/laundry/kitchens were also equipped with three-wire outlets. But the rest of the house had two wire outlets allowed for some time after.

In the US a homeowner is "grandfathered" so they don't have to update. There may be some "encouragements": GFI's and AFI's are required for some home loans and insurance coverages for instance but even that's somewhat limited. But new construction on an existing home isn't grandfathered, so a room added with it's new circuit must meet all current code standards which would include GFI's, AFI's and three-wire-ground. But the old rooms will still have two wire outlets and no protection unless they install GFI's.
 
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My home has 4 ground rods by code..
By the new codes it would be six.
The original main panel and sub panel have 1 ground rod each to #4 solid copper.
Then the meter which is 125 feet from my home has 2 ground rods with #4 copper.
It originally had one, but after huricane Irma I had to replace everything coming to the house.
A large oak tree went down and pulled the burried cables out of the ground.
So the new install had to have 2 ground rods (5/8"x 8' copper clad steel rods 6-8 feet apart.
With neutrals/ground separated at the meter and 4 strand 4/0 aluminum wire ran to the main breaker box.
The meter now has to have a breaker for firemen to access in case of fire.
So to OP , grounding is not that important for use in many cases
BUT IT IS REQUIRED FOR SAFETY in most places in the world.
A lot of 220/240 circuits in the US only have 2 hots and 1 neutral/ground wire. This was common when min breaker boxes had 1 bus bar for neutrals and ground or 2 with a jumper.
 
The original main panel and sub panel have 1 ground rod each to #4 solid copper.
Then the meter which is 125 feet from my home has 2 ground rods with #4 copper.
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In my area there are still a lot of old and really old homes with originally installed electric service. The really old ones still with knob-and-tube wiring aside: as a homeowner (not electrician) I feel the best thing can do soonest is update an old fuse box load panel to a modern circuit breaker panel. While certainly not cheap, and not a DIY for most of us, it's much less invasive than getting at all the house wiring. But at least your home can be brought up to most modern safety standards with proper (sufficient) ground rods and bonding and allows installation of GFI/AFI breakers for safety. AFI's are also really important if not updating existing wiring since it will detect arcing that occurrs where rodents have chewed insulation or poor installation chafed it away.

Updating the load panel can also increase power delivery since many older homes also have only 50A service. Although it can add considerably to cost if it also means the service drop from the transformer has to be upgraded.

Once the panel is updated you can assess, prioritize, budget and schedule a phased plan for the rest considering hazards like cloth wrapped insulation, aluminum wire, sufficient outlets into a room. Knob-and-tube wiring should be updated right away that's pretty clear, but if all else is OK I really feel updating just to get three-wire grounding is really not a very high priority when the system is protected by a GFI.
 
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Mine is a 1993-2008 Gothic Victorian build.
It took me that long on weekends and evenings to build and finish it.
With breaks to build other family members homes.
All panels and sub panels and wiring is up to date. Along with whole house surge protectors.
Everything is much cheaper if you do not have to pay for labor.
I have worked on some very old homes as you describe. P I T A jobs to keep everything looking like you were not there when done.
edit.

We also get 72 inches of rain/average/year so dry ground rods are not an issue here.
 
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Everything is much cheaper if you do not have to pay for labor.
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There are not very many people who could...or should...attempt DIY electrical work. That's ESPECIALLY true for upgrading an electrical panel and tie-ins to the utility equipment. I have a pretty good understanding of wiring, enough to do many things, but I'd never attempt to upgrade a panel. And if anyone does attempt it absolutely get it the work permitted, inspected by code enforcement and hang a copy of the inspection record inside the panel. You may have several fails and at least one significant re-do before getting a pass but that way there'll be less trouble with insurance coverage or home sales later on.

A funny thing about victorian era homes around here. Back in the early part of the last century there was a craze for lightening rod protection of homes so a lot of them had lightening rods installed on roof peaks, with cables run to ground rods that are still in the ground next to the foundation. I have to think many of those old ground rods are corroded away so I'd have them inspected before trusting one. There's a minimum resistance requirement to be met.
 
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The ground pin in the mains socket protects you from is electrocution in case there's an electrical fault in the device itself. Usually this fault is the device is sending electricity to the chassis or some other external part that's electrically conductive. Instead of going through you, it goes to ground.

If you're in a position where you actually need the ground pin protecting you from electrocution, your device is already hosed.

So to answer the original question, no, your components won't be damaged if you don't have a ground pin.
 
I have been building,remodeling,adding additions, Taking out walls, some load bearing, all of my life.
I have put together a 253 year old 2 story cabin with a single story cabin married to each side. On a 3/4 basement with 5 fireplaces.
It had central heat and air, up to date electrical outlets throughout, all modern amenities but carefully and selectively hidden inside custom cabinets, Pie safe entertainment center that also hid the electrical and duct work for upstairs.
Also built a 3.6 million dollar[1989 dollars] mansion on a golf course in Vegas. Three stall firing range in basement. 2 glass elevators. you get the idea.
Also another seaside mansion in Costa Rico.
I have traveled for work most of my life. The tiny North Georgia Mountain town I live in could not support the pay scale traveling did.
Have never failed an inspection yet.
My job is to make peoples dreams come true.
 
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Have never failed an inspection yet.
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That's great that you have the experience and skills to tackle a job like upgrading an electrical service panel. But many of the people on this forum don't and I wouldn't want to encourage them without a bunch of cautions. It's a far cry different and much more dangerous than opening up a PSU and replacing a fan, already something the old guard of Tom's seems to come unglued over if anyone even so much as suggests.
 
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