Question I goofed up when taking CPU out and putting it back ?

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I bought this build used, including a Corsair CV550. I have a CV650 that I intended to move over to this build, but since I had trouble booting and whatnot, I left that to be dealt with later. I am in the process of trying to plug in my old CV650 to the system and see if it makes any difference.

You're forgetting something. It goes by 3 letters: ESD.

Unless he grounded himself to earth ground during the procedure, he more than likely fried his CPU removing it.
after 30 years of building and swapping out cpu's, ram, gfx cards , sound cars , nic cards, M.2 drives (not 30 years of cause) and never used one I have to disagree.

The likelihood of that happening are so slim i have more chance of marrying the next queen of england.

unless your a heavy user of nylon products such as, carpets, socks and cloths and combine them all whilst practicing your breast stroke swimming techniques for 30 mins, clad in fully nylon cloths, laying on a nylon carpet just before removing the CPU then yeah maybe

but otherwise I doubt it.

but I could be wrong.
 
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Jun 7, 2023
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Okay thats a start, and you are sure they are fully seated? Not cockeyed? If so its like wat @Plumet said in the beggining:

I have personally been leaning towards user error of some sort, however, your RAM is installed properly, your CPU pins are not bent, your socket is in good shape, and you tried a different PSU. So the CV550 was the original PSU and the CV650 was a spare you had around? Are you sure that the CV650 worked fine recently? Is the CV550 new? In either case neither PSU is a good one, the CV line is made for very basic PCs that just browse the web. I would try and make sure that the CPU EPS cables at the top left of the board are slotted in all the way and same for the 20+4 motherboard cable. Make sure that the cables from the PSU are also fully plugged in, though I do not believe the CV line is fully or semi modular.
I made sure that they were fully seated, yes.
 
Also, why

Why would the RAM get damaged without touching them? The symptoms have remained the same since I just took out the CPU, cleaned it, and put it back.

Here are my RAM sticks, by the way: View: https://imgur.com/a/zpgspwl
Its not that the RAM got damaged. A lot of the time when people start cleaning the insides of the PC the ram can get jostled just enough to where they are no longer connected but look fully seated. Usually reseating the RAM will fix this type of issue, if that was what caused it. Seeing as how you have the RAM in all the way again and you are still experiencing issues, something else is going on.
 
Jun 7, 2023
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Its not that the RAM got damaged. A lot of the time when people start cleaning the insides of the PC the ram can get jostled just enough to where they are no longer connected but look fully seated. Usually reseating the RAM will fix this type of issue it that was what caused it. Seeing as how you have the RAM in all the way again and you are still experiencing issue, something else is going on.
Right. I should get around to try them one by one again, this time making sure that they are fully seated.

Do you think it likely that running the CPU for a few seconds without the cooler could have fried it?
 
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Also, assuming that the RAM is just completely dead, it would make sense for there to be no video output, right? Given that I was using an iGPU, the DDR4 RAM cards would be where the VRAM would have to reside; no VRAM, no screen output. Is my thinking here correct?
I've also tried to install a graphics card, with its own dedicated VRAM, but the issue remains.
 
Also, assuming that the RAM is just completely dead, it would make sense for there to be no video output, right? Given that I was using an iGPU, the DDR4 RAM cards would be where the VRAM would have to reside; no VRAM, no screen output. Is my thinking here correct?
I've also tried to install a graphics card, with its own dedicated VRAM, but the issue remains.
Your thinking is correct. RAM provides several critical roles and that one is no exception. Without RAM or even dead RAM a system cannot get to BIOS or boots. Do any lights turn on at all when you start the PC? Are there debug lights that flash different indicators labeled CPU, DRAM, VGA, BOOT in that order top to bottom?
 
Jun 7, 2023
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Your thinking is correct. RAM provides several critical roles and that one is no exception. Without RAM or even dead RAM a system cannot get to BIOS or boots. Do any lights turn on at all when you start the PC? Are there debug lights that flash different indicators labeled CPU, DRAM, VGA, BOOT in that order top to bottom?
The "Power ON" LED (on the case, but connected to a pin on the motherboard) turns on when I start the computer. The fans also start spinning. Unfortunately, I am unable to find any on-board lights. I didn't find any mention of any in the user manual when looking through it either. Neither do I remember seeing any on-board lights turned on when the computer was functioning and running.
 
The "Power ON" LED (on the case, but connected to a pin on the motherboard) turns on when I start the computer. The fans also start spinning. Unfortunately, I am unable to find any on-board lights. I didn't find any mention of any in the user manual when looking through it either. Neither do I remember seeing any on-board lights turned on when the computer was functioning and running.
This is unfortunate, as they at least give a basic idea of what is going on if the board had them.
 
I would suggest 'bread boarding' the PC at this point. This basically means rebuilding the PC outside the case meticulously. You can do this in the motherboard box or on top of the antistatic bag on top of the box. This is more of a last resort. The way I see it is the PC has a problem with displaying video, it has a problem with the motherboard, or you have a problem with the CPU / RAM. These are pretty much the only things that can lead to A PC that powers up, assuming the PSUs are fine, and all the fans spin but nothing happens. Have you tried leaving it on for more than a few minute to see if anything changes? Sometimes something called 'memory training' can take a while. This is when a motherboard basically familiarizes itself with RAM that it believes is newly installed.
 
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I would suggest 'bread boarding' the PC at this point. This basically means rebuilding the PC outside the case meticulously. You can do this in the motherboard box or on top of the antistatic bag on top of the box. This is more of a last resort. The way I see it is the PC has a problem with displaying video, it has a problem with the motherboard, or you have a problem with the CPU / RAM. These are pretty much the only things that can lead to A PC that powers up, assuming the PSUs are fine, and all the fans spin but nothing happens. Have you tried leaving it on for more than a few minute to see if anything changes? Sometimes something called 'memory training' can take a while. This is when a motherboard basically familiarizes itself with RAM that it believes is newly installed.
they have already tried all that
 
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@helper800 if you look through the posts starting from 1 you will see they went through quite a few things, take a look see what we may of missed
 
Jun 7, 2023
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I breadboarded it as helper800 suggested. I cleaned the RAM sticks with isopropyl alcohol for good measure. Then, I put on thermal paste and installed the CPU cooler. The only thing I didn't install at that stage was my dedicated GPU.

Now was the moment of truth. I pressed the power-on button, and the fans started spinning. Still, no video output. After 15 seconds or so, I did notice something strange though: The monitor started to look for HDMI input, then turning completely black, rather than displaying a message stating that no signal was found. This behavior kept repeating for about 60 seconds or so. After about a minute, the boot splash screen was displayed on the monitor!

Turns out that all it was missing in order to boot was time. Since I had mostly tried booting it without a cooler, I never gave it enough time since I was worried that the lack of heat dissipation would damage the CPU.

Around midnight I finally managed to put the whole thing together and it runs like a champ. It does run a little hot, but I suppose that it to be expected with a small mATX case and only three case fans.

The computer was built using only used parts. I agree with helper800 that a better quality PSU would have been preferred, but since I already had this PSU, I felt like it wasn't worth it to buy something new that is more high end. Especially given the fact that I have no intention to upgrade this system in the future.

Components:
  • Case: Zalman Z1 Iceberg White
  • PSU: Corsair CV650 650W
  • Motherboard: ASRock B550M-HDV
  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G
  • CPU cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
  • GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC Gaming 11GB
  • RAM: 2x Kingston FURY Beast DDR4 3200MHz 16GB
  • SSD (SATA): 2x Samsung 870 EVO SSD 1TB
  • SSD (NVMe): Kingston SKC3000S1024G (1TB)
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro
Stock frequencies were used for all tests.
Cinebench R23 (multicore):
Score: 10729​
CPU max temperature: 87° C​
Unigine Superposition (1080p Extreme):
Score: 8653​
GPU max temperature: 77° C​

Thank you to everyone who chimed in to help me get the computer running; I really appreciate it. Apologies for wasting everyone's time with such a silly mistake.

 
I breadboarded it as helper800 suggested. I cleaned the RAM sticks with isopropyl alcohol for good measure. Then, I put on thermal paste and installed the CPU cooler. The only thing I didn't install at that stage was my dedicated GPU.

Now was the moment of truth. I pressed the power-on button, and the fans started spinning. Still, no video output. After 15 seconds or so, I did notice something strange though: The monitor started to look for HDMI input, then turning completely black, rather than displaying a message stating that no signal was found. This behavior kept repeating for about 60 seconds or so. After about a minute, the boot splash screen was displayed on the monitor!

Turns out that all it was missing in order to boot was time. Since I had mostly tried booting it without a cooler, I never gave it enough time since I was worried that the lack of heat dissipation would damage the CPU.

Around midnight I finally managed to put the whole thing together and it runs like a champ. It does run a little hot, but I suppose that it to be expected with a small mATX case and only three case fans.

The computer was built using only used parts. I agree with helper800 that a better quality PSU would have been preferred, but since I already had this PSU, I felt like it wasn't worth it to buy something new that is more high end. Especially given the fact that I have no intention to upgrade this system in the future.

Components:
  • Case: Zalman Z1 Iceberg White
  • PSU: Corsair CV650 650W
  • Motherboard: ASRock B550M-HDV
  • CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600G
  • CPU cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
  • GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC Gaming 11GB
  • RAM: 2x Kingston FURY Beast DDR4 3200MHz 16GB
  • SSD (SATA): 2x Samsung 870 EVO SSD 1TB
  • SSD (NVMe): Kingston SKC3000S1024G (1TB)
  • OS: Windows 11 Pro
Stock frequencies were used for all tests.
Cinebench R23 (multicore):
Score: 10729​
CPU max temperature: 87° C​
Unigine Superposition (1080p Extreme):
Score: 8653​
GPU max temperature: 77° C​

Thank you to everyone who chimed in to help me get the computer running; I really appreciate it. Apologies for wasting everyone's time with such a silly mistake.

No time wasted at all, my friend. The best part of this forums is learning how to diagnose better, to see the signs of certain issues in ways not previously seen. I try to keep an open mind about new and old problems posters here have and I have reaped the benefits of that knowledge at my job. I am glad that everything is up and running. I hope that you do not have any more issues in the future with this PC, though if you experience any shutdown issues I would immediately suspect the PSU.