Build Advice I need help building a PC for my dad ?

[Samer_2]

Hi

I am building a PC for my dad who primarily wants it for Microsoft Flight Simulator, and I am kind of rushing because I need to get everything before I flight back for the summer. I have never built one before and am worried I royally f'd something up.

Is there anything wrong with this build? Any no-brainer small improvements or fatal incompatibilities?

Parts:
Case : Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L Micro ATX - 40$
MB : Gigabyte B550M - 90$
GPU : ASRock RX 6600 Challenger - $220
CPU : Ryzen 5 5600 - $111
RAM : T-Force 2x8GB 3600mhz CL18 - $30
SSD : Crucial P3 1TB M.2 - $64
PSU : Thermaltake Smart 600W 80Plus Certified - $45


its approximately 600$ with shipping, I was also considering these 2 prebuilts for $859 which is considerably more... and I'm not sure would beneficial for a casual gamer but I thought were great value especially for MSFS (maybe?):
MSI Codex R2
HZG Gaming Desktop Computer
with the obvious difference to me between the two was 16 DDR5 vs 32 DDR4.

I would really appreciate some clarity on this as I am going crazy researching every little thing. Thank you!

 

[Darkbreeze]

K.

 

[Samer_2]

Does anyone know if it’s feasible to transport cases with tempered glass on a plane? It might come to that if I can’t find a case somewhere back home, which is looking like the case (pun not intended).

Also, is cutting back on the ram and ssd (going for PNY or silicone power) and going for a 5700x a good trade off? I am considering that right now but am worried they would be bad quality and fail with time. Perhaps staying stable here is better. Especially since like I said (mediumish settings at a stable 30+ fps is good). Let me know your thoughts. I appreciate everyone bearing with me throughout this last stretch of indecisiveness

 

[Misgar]

Does anyone know if it’s feasible to transport cases with tempered glass on a plane?

I really wouldn't try shipping a case with glass panels, unless you take great care with packing. Obviously the things survive the journey from China, but for the most part they're transported by ship. A few broken panels during shipping aren't going to worry a dealer.

If you do ship a computer by air, it'll probably have to go in the hold as excess baggage. Disconnect the heatsink if using an air cooler. I've carried multiple laptops as checked baggage on long flights and they all survived.

Does your dad really want a case with glass panels? Solid metal panels don't shatter.

 

[Samer_2]

I really wouldn't try shipping a case with glass panels, unless you take great care with packing. Obviously the things survive the journey from China, but for the most part they're transported by ship. A few broken panels during shipping aren't going to worry a dealer.

If you do ship a computer by air, it'll probably have to go in the hold as excess baggage. Disconnect the heatsink if using an air cooler. I've carried multiple laptops as checked baggage on long flights and they all survived.

Does your dad really want a case with glass panels? Solid metal panels don't shatter.

It’s not a requirement. Are there any solid airflow/filtration metal cases?

I found these options in a store at home too:
Deepcool CH370
XPG Valor Mesh
Zalman S5
Silverstone Fara R1
Gigabyte C200

Would any of these do the trick?

Also, for the computer parts, do you think it would be okay to put them in the checked baggage with some cushion wrap?

 

[Darkbreeze]

I had THREE TG panels for my FD case show up shattered. I would take EVERY precaution including removing it from the case and padding it by itself to ensure that doesn't happen. Or else, it likely will.

 

[Samer_2]

I had THREE TG panels for my FD case show up shattered. I would take EVERY precaution including removing it from the case and padding it by itself to ensure that doesn't happen. Or else, it likely will.

Do you think any of the cases I listed are solid enough? Or do you know of a Micro-ATX all-metal case that's easier for travel?

 

[Samer_2]

Is this the RYZEN 5 5600 or not? I am confused what the "International Version" means.

https://www.newegg.com/amd-ryzen-5-...cket-am4-processors-desktops/p/274-000M-001Z5

 

[Misgar]

Also, for the computer parts, do you think it would be okay to put them in the checked baggage with some cushion wrap?

They'll probably survive as checked baggage if you leave brand new computer parts in their original packaging, then cover with bubble wrap and place in a large double-walled cardboard box. This is how I transport any second-hand laptops I'm gifting people, when I travel abroad. So far the laptops have arrived intact.

If you want to ship a whole computer, there are various methods that involve packing the space inside the case with padding. Take care though. Some people in Youtube videos use plastic packing which may cause ESD damage to the components. Don't fill the space with "plastic worms". They generate static electicity. Bad news for mobo and GPU.

View: https://youtu.be/t6LeOqkgV6s


I'd advise removing the GPU and air cooler, if you're shipping a completed PC. There's enough mass in large GPUs and air coolers to mangle the motherboard, if the PC is subjected to prolonged vibration or dropped. This video shows the type of vibration table I used at work (somewhat excessive for a gaming PC I agree).

View: https://youtu.be/DCWw3J_gGdE


If you want to be really thorough, you can isolate the computer case inside a larger box using expandable foam as a cushion. Even if the outer cardboard box is pierced or crushed, the inner box and contents may survive. The foam also makes good shock proofing. As you can see from the first video, it's great fun filling the box with foam.

View: https://youtu.be/AFn1ScFhUsw

View: https://youtu.be/l20seGMRSKQ


https://www.avadirect.com/blog/avadirect-system-packaging/

Are there any solid airflow/filtration metal cases?

The "filtration" you mention is achieved on better designed (more expensive) cases by means of mesh filters, placed over the air intakes of all fans pulling air into the computer (including bottom mounted PSUs). Cheaper cases, or those designed to look "pretty" with brightly coloured LED fans might not include any air filters. Forget function, it's "art".

You'll probably have to increase your budget for the case from $65 and check carefully to see if filters are included. At a guess, if the intake fans are in full view and have LED illumination, they're probably not filtered. As a general rule, exhaust fans don't need filters. You're trying to stop dust getting into the case.

An example of a case with filters.

View: https://youtu.be/MpUb21zuWMY


I can't provide specific examples of cases, because I don't know what's available locally or how much you're prepared to pay. My most recent case purchase was probably a Fractal Define R5, but that's way too big for your build if you like compact cases. I've bought quite a few second hand cases on eBay, mostly old Lian Li and Cooler Master cases made of Aluminium. Price new was often $300+.

Roughly half my cases have intake filters. On cases with no filters, I sometimes add my own. With no filters, the inside of the case gets dusty sooner. Be careful when "dusting" the inside. People arrive on this forum after breaking their machines with over enthusiastic cleaning. The damage might not be visible, but they may have zapped senstive components with static (ESD).

Don't let it get this bad.
https://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/670-dirty-computer-pictures-2.html

 

[Samer_2]

They'll probably survive as checked baggage if you leave brand new computer parts in their original packaging, then cover with bubble wrap and place in a large double-walled cardboard box. This is how I transport any second-hand laptops I'm gifting people, when I travel abroad. So far the laptops have arrived intact.

If you want to ship a whole computer, there are various methods that involve packing the space inside the case with padding. Take care though. Some people in Youtube videos use plastic packing which may cause ESD damage to the components. Don't fill the space with "plastic worms". They generate static electicity. Bad news for mobo and GPU.

View: https://youtu.be/t6LeOqkgV6s


I'd advise removing the GPU and air cooler, if you're shipping a completed PC. There's enough mass in large GPUs and air coolers to mangle the motherboard, if the PC is subjected to prolonged vibration or dropped. This video shows the type of vibration table I used at work (somewhat excessive for a gaming PC I agree).

View: https://youtu.be/DCWw3J_gGdE


If you want to be really thorough, you can isolate the computer case inside a larger box using expandable foam as a cushion. Even if the outer cardboard box is pierced or crushed, the inner box and contents may survive. The foam also makes good shock proofing. As you can see from the first video, it's great fun filling the box with foam.

View: https://youtu.be/AFn1ScFhUsw

View: https://youtu.be/l20seGMRSKQ


https://www.avadirect.com/blog/avadirect-system-packaging/


The "filtration" you mention is achieved on better designed (more expensive) cases by means of mesh filters, placed over the air intakes of all fans pulling air into the computer (including bottom mounted PSUs). Cheaper cases, or those designed to look "pretty" with brightly coloured LED fans might not include any air filters. Forget function, it's "art".

You'll probably have to increase your budget for the case from $65 and check carefully to see if filters are included. At a guess, if the intake fans are in full view and have LED illumination, they're probably not filtered. As a general rule, exhaust fans don't need filters. You're trying to stop dust getting into the case.

An example of a case with filters.

View: https://youtu.be/MpUb21zuWMY


I can't provide specific examples of cases, because I don't know what's available locally or how much you're prepared to pay. My most recent case purchase was probably a Fractal Define R5, but that's way too big for your build if you like compact cases. I've bought quite a few second hand cases on eBay, mostly old Lian Li and Cooler Master cases made of Aluminium. Price new was often $300+.

Roughly half my cases have intake filters. On cases with no filters, I sometimes add my own. With no filters, the inside of the case gets dusty sooner. Be careful when "dusting" the inside. People arrive on this forum after breaking their machines with over enthusiastic cleaning. The damage might not be visible, but they may have zapped senstive components with static (ESD).

Don't let it get this bad.
https://www.tomshardware.com/picturestory/670-dirty-computer-pictures-2.html

I honestly am planning to put all the parts, which are inside their original box and possibly the shipping box they come with, in a large hard case suitcase and wrap them with bubble wrap, possibly packing peanuts. I can’t really leave my suitcase behind in my dorm or afford the extra $130+ fee. I heard for cases with tempered glass, that you should unscrew it for less stress, so that’s what I am also planning to do if I end up getting a case from here. Is this a crazy idea? I really hope not.

 

[Samer_2]

I honestly am planning to put all the parts, which are inside their original box and possibly the shipping box they come with, in a large hard case suitcase and wrap them with bubble wrap, possibly packing peanuts. I can’t really leave my suitcase behind in my dorm or afford the extra $130+ fee. I heard for cases with tempered glass, that you should unscrew it for less stress, so that’s what I am also planning to do if I end up getting a case from here. Is this a crazy idea? I really hope not.

I could also take some of them as carry on but definitely not the case with the tempered glass.

 

[Darkbreeze]

The problem with all of this is, and I have no idea about the specifics, that there are very distinct laws in place right now about taking computer hardware to other countries from the US. It's craptastic ridiculous, but it is a fact, so you want to make sure that what you are planning to take isn't going to get flagged before you make the investment because I already know of at least two people that were told they couldn't take certain tech on the plane headed to some specific countries. I would make CERTAIN about that, FIRST, and then go from there once you are certain the parts aren't going to be flagged. We are living in a really unbelievably stupid time thanks to, some things.

 

[Misgar]

there are very distinct laws in place right now about taking computer hardware to other countries from the US.

A very good point. One country I visited banned anything with GPS (this was in the days before smartphones) but they didn't spot my Garmin Etrex. The same country has numerous restrictions on virtually anything you can think of, including seemingly innocuous items you can buy in-country.

There's also the question of import duty and purchase tax fees in your home country. A friend of mine bought an expensive camera in the States and tried to smuggle it back through customs when he flew home. He got hit with a fine + import duty + VAT. If you're really unlucky, customs officials may confiscate the goods if you've failed to declare them.

On business trips to the States, I had to obtain official paperwork for all electronic kit and get it stamped before departure and again on arrival. You won't need to do this, but it does highlight the need to be aware of the regs.

As mentioned by @Darkbreeze, there are restrictions exporting certain powerful CPUs and GPUs from the USA to sanctioned countries. It would be a shame if you got stopped on the way out and had things confiscated, or a similar experience after your flight landed.
https://ofac.treasury.gov/sanctions-programs-and-country-information

Check your country's Customs and Excise web site for prohibited items and find out the maximum value of goods you're allowed to import for personal use, tax/duty free. I'm permitted the equivalent of $520 when returning home from abroad. Anything more and I have to pay import tax + VAT on the entire value of the goods.

Sorry if this is adding to your list of woes, but it pays to be prepared. No point in buying expensive kit if it gets confiscated or you have to pay extra taxes at home. Some things that are (were) cheaper in the States look very attractive to foreigners, until they discover the pitfalls. SSDs on special offer in the US are often twice the price where I live (comparing US Amazon.com with my local Amazon web site).

 

[Darkbreeze]

If you have any questions at all about this while or after, please let me know and I'll try to help guide you through any problems should there be any. Hopefully, seems like maybe you are good and didn't have any but you never know.

 

[Samer_2]

If you have any questions at all about this while or after, please let me know and I'll try to help guide you through any problems should there be any. Hopefully, seems like maybe you are good and didn't have any but you never know.

You've been really really helpful and I truly appreciate your, and everybody else's, efforts throughout this build.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($120.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550 GAMING X V2 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston NV3 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($59.00 @ Newegg)
Video Card: ASRock Challenger D Radeon RX 6600 8 GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Zalman S2 ATX Mid Tower Case ($56.96 @ Newegg Sellers)
Power Supply: ADATA XPG Core Reactor II 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $715.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2025-06-09 00:43 EDT-0400

This is the finalized build. Currently I am thinking of getting that CPU cooler you recommended especially since I want the CPU to last long, though we do usually keep our rooms pretty cold with AC all the time which idk if that might help cool it better than average. Also I recently bought the r5 5600 from Newegg (https://www.newegg.com/amd-ryzen-5-...cket-am4-processors-desktops/p/274-000M-001Z5) and have since seen posts saying it's a suspicious seller and that it has no warranty to US buyers (https://www.reddit.com/r/Newegg/comments/u7agck/beware_of_marketplace_seller_senytech_usa_buyers/) and am scared that the part itself might be "faulty" as some have said, especially since I cannot test it until I build the entire PC back home, so I am very likely going to return it and get the US-sold version from Amazon for a few extra bucks.

What do you think about all of this? Let me know, and thanks again!

 

[Samer_2]

Also I am confused, I thought the 5700 was PCIe 3 but this Newegg listing of the 5700, sold by Newegg themselves, says it's PCIe 4?

What's that about?

 

[Misgar]

I am scared that the part itself might be "faulty" as some have said, especially since I cannot test it until I build the entire PC back home,

You really, really, should assemble the system before you fly back home. If you find any non-working parts you can RMA them, if you have enough time. Once you're back home, you might have to pay international shipping charges to return faulty items.

I haven't experienced many problems with brand new components. They generally work fine and rarely turn up Dead On Arrival. You're more likely to have "teething problems" with component compatibility, e.g. your choice of RAM might not work well with an AMD CPU.

If this is your first PC build, there's always a very slight risk you might damage something during assembly. Those of us who have built multiple systems have learned from our earlier (possibly expensive) mistakes.

Dropping a CPU into the socket is something to avoid at all costs. It's very easy to bend the tiny spring contacts if the edge or corner of a CPU touches the pins in the socket. Bent contacts in the socket are difficult or impossible to straighten. The supplier/shop may take a dim view of such clumsy damage and refuse to replace the board. The fewer times you install or replace the CPU, the better.

After building up the system to test it, you can leave the CPU in the socket, but disconnect and remove any large air coolers.

I am confused, I thought the 5700 was PCIe 3 but this Newegg listing of the 5700, sold by Newegg themselves, says it's PCIe 4?

CPUs can support several different PCIe standards (speeds) simultaneously. Some CPUs support PCIe5 and PCIe4 and PCIe3 and probably PCIe2 devices too. Some components will run at PCIe4 and others at PCI3, simultaneously.

If you buy a GPU that supports PCIe4 and your CPU and motherboard slot also support PCIe4, the graphics card should run at PCIe4 speed.

If you buy a GPU that only supports PCIe3 and plug it into a PCIe4 slot on the mobo, the card will not run at PCIe4 even if supported by the CPU, but instead at PCIe3.

The same applies to M.2 NVMe SSDs. You can buy Gen3, Gen4 and Gen5 NVMe drives. If the M.2 slot on the mobo only supports PCIe Gen3, a faster PCIe Gen4 or PCIe Gen5 SSD will not run any faster, but will be limited to the slot speed of PCIe3.

When a computer starts up, the BIOS interrogates all the hardware, including GPUs, NVMe drives, plus other (optional) plug in PCIe cards and "negotiates" the PCIe bus speed separately for each device. After this "handshaking" process, the BIOS usually sets the fastest speed possible for each combination of device & socket.

The slowest speed of either part (device or socket) is the limiting factor, unless you intervene and deliberately reduce or lock the bus speed. You're unlikely ever to need to do this, so leave PCIe bus speed selection set to Auto in the BIOS.

 

[Misgar]

I don't know if you've already booked your flight home, but I recommend checking your (proposed) airline's baggage allowance and prohibited items list.

For example, most airlines do not allow you to carry spare Lithium batteries in the hold (checked baggage). It's usually OK if the Lithium batteries are housed inside equipment, e.g. laptops, but you're not supposed to pack Lithium power banks in your suitcase. This shouldn't affect your desktop PC components, because the only battery is a CR2032 on the mobo.

If you do have a USB power bank, the limit is usually 100 Watt-hours per bank and it must be placed in your hand luggage (cabin). It's easier to deal with battery fires in the cabin. Some airlines restrict you to 4 spare batteries in your hand luggage, but you can carry other devices with batteries inside.

Another thing to check is the weight allowance. I've just booked a flight where I'm allowed a total of 92kg in Economy. That's two suitcases at 23kg each, plus a cabin bag (trolley) at 23kg, plus a small laptop bag at 23kg. If I want a third suitcase that's $190 extra.

How I'm supposed to cram 23kg into a small laptop bag beats me, unless I'm expected to carry gold bricks. Still, I'm making good use of the allowance and have packed around 72kg of gifts and personal belongings. I don't travel light on some trips!

Most airlines are far less generous and you may be restricted to one 22kg suitcase and one 7kg cabin bag in Economy. Beware of over zealous check in or security staff who enforce the rules about cabin baggage size. Different airlines have different size limits to avoid overfilling overhead lockers. If your hand luggage is too big and doesn't fit inside a special frame, it may be rejected.

I almost had two big lumps of semi-precious gemstone (in my cabin bag) rejected as possible hand weapons, but the security staff relented after I wrote favourable comments in their visitors' book. The two suitcases would have been overweight otherwise.

 

[LOGAN54321]

Also I am confused, I thought the 5700 was PCIe 3 but this Newegg listing of the 5700, sold by Newegg themselves, says it's PCIe 4?

What's that about?

Somebody made a mistake.

RYZEN 7 5700 - PCI Express® Version: PCIe® 3.0 (connectivity)
RYZEN 7 5700X - PCI Express® Version: PCIe® 4.0 (connectivity)

More about it.