Question I need help choosing an AIO please ?

beauknowsdiddly

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Feb 24, 2010
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Hey everyone!
So I got this refurbished corsair icue h170i elite capellix and liked it a lot. It seemed to cool really well. My idle temp was around 30 c and I loved the way it looked in this case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKVN35N?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1
That's the Lian Li O11D EVO RGB E-ATX case in case you can't click the link. I basically bought the case because of the cooler, lol
After about 2 months my motherboard burned up. The controller from my other fans melted right into my board. No clue why. Anyway, after I replaced the board, I see that my AIO radiator has sprung a leak. In the trash it goes. Now I'm using a big ole, Noctua paper weight that covers half my board. Covering the ram lights, with a temp of about 50 c. 🙁

Can you guys recommend a nice AIO that will look awesome in this case? If I have to spend more than say $200, I'll just have to wait a bit.

Thank you, thank you!
 
I personally use a Corsair H150i Elite LCD XT and love it. Not cheap but it looks great and has excellent cooling. You can set the radiator fan curve with the liquid temperature through iCUE which is way more efficient and prevents those annoying fan bursts.
 
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Hey everyone!
So I got this refurbished corsair icue h170i elite capellix and liked it a lot. It seemed to cool really well. My idle temp was around 30 c and I loved the way it looked in this case
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRKVN35N?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_3&th=1
That's the Lian Li O11D EVO RGB E-ATX case in case you can't click the link. I basically bought the case because of the cooler, lol
After about 2 months my motherboard burned up. The controller from my other fans melted right into my board. No clue why. Anyway, after I replaced the board, I see that my AIO radiator has sprung a leak. In the trash it goes. Now I'm using a big ole, Noctua paper weight that covers half my board. Covering the ram lights, with a temp of about 50 c. 🙁

Can you guys recommend a nice AIO that will look awesome in this case? If I have to spend more than say $200, I'll just have to wait a bit.

Thank you, thank you!
A 360 AIO for 2700x ? Big, big overkill, any half decent up to 50 bucks should be more than enough and so should be any 120/240 AIO even with aggressive OC, Most of heat transfer is bottleneck-ed between CPU and cooler face, adding larger and larger cooler doesn't help over some value. You could use Mac truck radiator and swimming pool pump and still keep those 50c.
 
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It depends on the esthetic you're trying to achieve. The problem with some AIO companies is that they do not produce reverse rotor fans so if you want all of your fans to look the same in that case you would have to limit yourself to those companies which do produce reverse rotor fans. For example, many people like the Arctic Freezer III AIOs but there are no matching reverse rotor fans. Corsair, Lian Li and Thermaltake are among the companies that do produce reverse rotor fans so you might consider one of those even though you had a bad experience with Corsair.
 
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A 360 AIO for 2700x ? Big, big overkill, any half decent up to 50 bucks should be more than enough and so should be any 120/240 AIO even with aggressive OC, Most of heat transfer is bottleneck-ed between CPU and cooler face, adding larger and larger cooler doesn't help over some value. You could use Mac truck radiator and swimming pool pump and still keep those 50c.
lol it may be an overkill but it looked awesome! And like I said I was impressed when I saw the idle temp down to 30c. NOW it's at 50c with the Noctua.
 
It depends on the esthetic you're trying to achieve. The problem with some AIO companies is that they do not produce reverse rotor fans so if you want all of your fans to look the same in that case you would have to limit yourself to those companies which do produce reverse rotor fans. For example, many people like the Arctic Freezer III AIOs but there are no matching reverse rotor fans. Corsair, Lian Li and Thermaltake are among the companies that do produce reverse rotor fans so you might consider one of those even though you had a bad experience with Corsair.
I may just get another Corsair. The only reason it was a bad experience I think is because it was refurbished. I just don't want to pay $350 bucks for a cooler. I'll look into all of those thank you!
 
lol it may be an overkill but it looked awesome! And like I said I was impressed when I saw the idle temp down to 30c. NOW it's at 50c with the Noctua.
For looking impressive,you can always stick 3 or more case fans to help air cooler. Fan controller night have burned because if too many fans on one header or a fan short. Which Noctua do you have, NH-d15 or14 are clunkiest ? Must have some problem mounting it, it should keep same idle temps as any.
For 200 bucks you could get an R5 5600x and have better value.
If you insist on an AIO I really like Arctic Liquid Freezer III, 240 or 360 ARGB, maybe white if you prefer. It's one of top performers and not expensive.
https://www.arctic.de/en/Liquid-Freezer-III-360-A-RGB-White/ACFRE00152A
 
For looking impressive,you can always stick 3 or more case fans to help air cooler. Fan controller night have burned because if too many fans on one header or a fan short. Which Noctua do you have, NH-d15 or14 are clunkiest ? Must have some problem mounting it, it should keep same idle temps as any.
For 200 bucks you could get an R5 5600x and have better value.
If you insist on an AIO I really like Arctic Liquid Freezer III, 240 or 360 ARGB, maybe white if you prefer. It's one of top performers and not expensive.
https://www.arctic.de/en/Liquid-Freezer-III-360-A-RGB-White/ACFRE00152A
Hey thanks again Mike. I have the same amount of fans on the same headers as before so no difference there. I'm checking the header occasionally to see if it's getting warm at all. I still have no clue how that happened. I do prefer that black over the white one though and that's not available. I appreciate it. I'll let you know how it works out! Thanks again!
 
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Okay another small snag..... The board I got. the ASRock X570 Phantom . Only has one USB 2 port. No WiFi on the board, so I have a WiFi card plugged into it. The AIO also requires a USB port. Now what? Can I use an adapter and plug both the WiFi and the H170i AIO into the same USB port without burning up my board again? Something like this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/OwlTree-Motherboard-USB-2-0-Splitter/dp/B0CZRSPQZG/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0_title?pd_rd_w=6ocpr&content-id=amzn1.sym.bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac:amzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac&pf_rd_r=HPF18HHWH9CQ7DPF9GNM&pd_rd_wg=i9Te9&pd_rd_r=9bf1fb2b-54e5-465a-931c-4fe3442c308d&pd_rd_i=B0CZRSPQZG
In case you can't open the link it's called an OwlTree 2 Pack Motherboard USB 2.0 to Dual 9 Pin Extension, USB Header Splitter for Internal Computer Motherboard (Braided Black).

Or should I use this instead?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q8685Y?psc=1&smid=A1328MBCYNS29D&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

What do you suggest?

Thank you, thank you!
 
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That may work since a usb2 connection only requires 4 pins. But if both devices try to use the same 4 pins there might be a conflict. The usb2 connection from your wifi card is for bluetooth support so if you don't need bluetooth you could try leaving that disconnected.
Oooooh, Hey thanks dwd, So I'll still get wifi? I wonder if it's wifi or bluetooth that casts my pc to my roku? That's all I use it for. Never thought about that. On second thought I use bluetooth to connect to my speakers. Bummer.
 
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Okay another small snag..... The board I got. the ASRock X570 Phantom . Only has one USB 2 port. No WiFi on the board, so I have a WiFi card plugged into it. The AIO also requires a USB port. Now what? Can I use an adapter and plug both the WiFi and the H170i AIO into the same USB port without burning up my board again? Something like this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/OwlTree-Motherboard-USB-2-0-Splitter/dp/B0CZRSPQZG/ref=pd_ci_mcx_mh_mcx_views_0_title?pd_rd_w=6ocpr&content-id=amzn1.sym.bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac:amzn1.symc.40e6a10e-cbc4-4fa5-81e3-4435ff64d03b&pf_rd_p=bb21fc54-1dd8-448e-92bb-2ddce187f4ac&pf_rd_r=HPF18HHWH9CQ7DPF9GNM&pd_rd_wg=i9Te9&pd_rd_r=9bf1fb2b-54e5-465a-931c-4fe3442c308d&pd_rd_i=B0CZRSPQZG
In case you can't open the link it's called an OwlTree 2 Pack Motherboard USB 2.0 to Dual 9 Pin Extension, USB Header Splitter for Internal Computer Motherboard (Braided Black).

Or should I use this instead?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q8685Y?psc=1&smid=A1328MBCYNS29D&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

What do you suggest?

Thank you, thank you!
Be quiet light loop doesn’t require USB….
 
I have a H100 device, it used the USB for software control only. It will run on its default curve and rgb without the USB connection.

Configure it as you want to use it using USB on first boot. Save the settings to firmware, read the manual and help files and power down. Remove the connection from the USB and reboot. That may work for a set of custom choices. It does for RGB.

Either way, the H100 will function without the USB connection. Linux has no software for the control of the H100, it works just as well as it did under windows however I can’t change any settings.
 
I have a H100 device, it used the USB for software control only. It will run on its default curve and rgb without the USB connection.

Configure it as you want to use it using USB on first boot. Save the settings to firmware, read the manual and help files and power down. Remove the connection from the USB and reboot. That may work for a set of custom choices. It does for RGB.

Either way, the H100 will function without the USB connection. Linux has no software for the control of the H100, it works just as well as it did under windows however I can’t change any settings.
Hey thank you! I went ahead and used this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076Q8685Y?psc=1&smid=A1328MBCYNS29D&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
Everything seems to be working okay so far. Knock on wood. :)