Well, for one thing, larger SSDs just about always have faster performance.
For example, the T700 1TB has sequential maximum 11,700MB/s read and 9500MB/s write. The 2TB model has 12,400MB/s read and 11,800MB/s write.
The Kingston FURY renegade 1TB has 7,300MB/s read and 6,000MB/s write. The 2TB model has 7,300MB/s read and 7,000MB/s write.
Based on those numbers though, the T700 should definitely be much faster than the Kingston drive, but, those are for sequential operations and that kind of performance is only going to happen if you are reading very large sequential files. Most reads and writes are random reads and writes, which happen at much slower speeds, plus your C: drive has MANY other things happening while you are running that test because there are MANY other Windows processes that require access to reading and writing data on that drive in addition to whatever is going on with any test you might be running on it. There are many reasons why a drive might have lower performance though, and it's sometimes hard to say why.
Let me ask this. Are ALL drives connected to this motherboard new? None of them have EVER been used with another system or prior Windows installation, at all?
Where exactly are each drive installed? Is the T700 installed in the M.2_1 slot closest to the CPU so that it is using the CPU lanes and not chipset lanes? Are there any SATA drives attached to the system?
Can you retest both drives using AS SSD or Crystaldiskmark?
Have you looked at the SMART data for those drives to ensure there are no issues with drive health AND that the drives are actually reporting as the model and size of drive that they are supposed to be, because we have seen a LOT of cases where drives have been returned to Amazon or Newegg, and other retailers, with a label swapped off the actual drive and put on some other cheaper drive, and then just sold right back out to the next guy. These retailers don't ever check that kind of thing.
Have you gone to the product support page for your motherboard and downloaded the latest chipset, network adapter(s) and audio controller drivers and installed them. And by that, I do not mean relying on Windows update's native driver support, which usually should only be used as a last resort when no other drives are available for the OS in question, because they generally don't offer the same full feature set that manufacturer drivers do. Sometimes they do, often they do not.
Also, you are several versions behind on BIOS updates. I would highly recommend updating the BIOS to version 2214, then do a hard reset of the BIOS to ensure everything actually resets and no previous hardware settings "stick". You will need to reconfigure any custom BIOS settings you had set after doing the hard reset.
BIOS Hard Reset procedure
Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.
Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.
During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.
If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.
Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.
Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.
In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.
It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.
Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.
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