I'AM NOT OVERCLOCKING!!!!!!

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I don't hear any beeps when starting up. What does that mean?
Why would my system work great for a couple months, then refuse to start up properly?

Here's some specs to look over. Does everything look good?
Voltage sensor 0 1.15 Volts [0x90] (CPU VCORE)
Voltage sensor 1 11.88 Volts [0xD5] (+12V)
Voltage sensor 2 3.30 Volts [0xCE] (AVCC)
Voltage sensor 3 3.30 Volts [0xCE] (+3.3V)
Voltage sensor 4 0.10 Volts [0xD] (VIN1)
Voltage sensor 5 5.06 Volts [0xD3] (+5V)
Voltage sensor 6 1.45 Volts [0xB5] (VIN3)
Temperature sensor 0 39°C (102°F) [0x27] (SYSTIN)
Temperature sensor 1 33°C (91°F) [0x42] (CPUTIN)
Fan sensor 0 1172 RPM [0x24] (SYSFANIN)
Fan sensor 4 898 RPM [0x2F] (AUXFANIN1)



 



You, sir, are continuing to smoke the same sh*t you have been.

Here is the EXACT SAME LINK I posted the last three times we had this conversation:

http://www.microsoft.com/windows/lifecycle/default.mspx
http://support.microsoft.com/lifecycle/
http://support.microsoft.com/gp/lifeselectindex

No end date listed for VistaSP1: http://support.microsoft.com/lifecycle/?p1=12534


You have been repeatedly shown that your bullsh*t is, in fact, ****.

I'm calling you a LIAR. Either present actual proof, or STFU.
 

No need to, I can smell BS 3000 miles away.
 
Anyone care to comment on the problem at hand. Do the volt specs I posted above look correct? Is there any other way to determine if it's a power supply issue?

Thanks,
 
Here's some specs to look over. Does everything look good?
Voltage sensor 0 1.15 Volts [0x90] (CPU VCORE)
Voltage sensor 1 11.88 Volts [0xD5] (+12V)
Voltage sensor 2 3.30 Volts [0xCE] (AVCC)
Voltage sensor 3 3.30 Volts [0xCE] (+3.3V)
Voltage sensor 4 0.10 Volts [0xD] (VIN1)
Voltage sensor 5 5.06 Volts [0xD3] (+5V)
Voltage sensor 6 1.45 Volts [0xB5] (VIN3)
Temperature sensor 0 39°C (102°F) [0x27] (SYSTIN)
Temperature sensor 1 33°C (91°F) [0x42] (CPUTIN)
Fan sensor 0 1172 RPM [0x24] (SYSFANIN)
Fan sensor 4 898 RPM [0x2F] (AUXFANIN1)
Click to expand...

Volts look right to me.
 
I just read this in my manual:
Due to chipset limitation, DDR2-800 with CL=4 will be downgraded to run at DDR-667 by default setting. If you want to operate with lower latency, adjust the memory timing manually.

So I've got CPU-Z running and I'm seeing a lot of different things about my CAS LATENCY, timings, etc. How can I tell what I'm running at and where is that info?
Thanks for your help.
 

What you see in CPUz is what you are running at, no? The timings should be also adjustable in the bios.

To make sure all your ram is good, run memtest86+ by booting from a disk. After it passes several rounds, run Prime95 blend test for 24 hours. Any failures indicate the ram, assuming the motherboard and cpu are okay.
 
This thread is a little confusing. If a system that has been running properly begins to have issues with the BIOS loading properly, I don't see how discussions about the amount of memory or OS are relevant. Unless a stick of memory has failed, or is failing, I really don't think your problem is with the memory or timings. On every mobo I've used, the behavior you've described is consistent with improper BIOS settings, failing mobo, or failing power supply.

To be on the safe side, relax the memory timings as others have suggested and run memtest.
Try another power supply. Yours could be failing and not providing proper power during a cold boot.

After that we get into component swapping which can be more difficult without known-good components at hand.
 
I did try to download a newer bios V0603 and it didn't run so well. So I decided to downgrade back to V0202. Could it be this process of changing BIOS's got messed up? I didn't recieve any errors during the process.
Is there anyway to reload the BIOS from scratch?
 
During the BIOS change your settings may have been changed, most likely back to default. That could be part of the problem. I know somehow my "load line calibration" setting got turned off in the BIOS and it made my system very unstable. I would go through the BIOS settings carefully and check each setting. But that doesn't make much sense as to why you can eventually get the system to boot without changing any settings...
 
I've never changed any settings in my BIOS. If anything got changed back to default, then everything would have been just the same.

You wrote: "But that doesn't make much sense as to why you can eventually get the system to boot without changing any settings..."

Very true.
 
Here's another weird thing. If and when the computer does boot and loads windows, if I decide to shut it down and then restart it, it will boot and load no problem. It's like it only does this if it's been off for several hours and had time to cool down.
 
Or more likely, a bad connection somewhere. When parts heat up, they expand, so any tiny break/gap would get reconnected/filled once the system has been on for a while. Intermittent issues only when cold are a classic sign of this.
I would take the whole system apart and re-assemble it to make sure that all RAM is seated properly, the CPU is seated properly, all boards are plugged in securely, and all connectors are seated securely.
Hopefully, it's just a seating issue, and not a small break/crack somewhere.
 
Believe it or not, you're not the first person to have "cold boot" issues. I've had experience with at least 2 different PCs that had issues similar to yours, and we never did figure out what the problem was.

The fix was to never shut it down! Just let it hibernate and there were no probs, LOL.
 
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