Question Installing intake fans

[MikeTalem]

I am looking to install some intake fans at the front of PC Case, but have a few questions I need to ask.

I have a push/pull AiO liquid cooling for my build that is mounted at the back as the exhaust.
I have no intake fans and this is causing negative airflow and making my PC gather dust quite quickly. I have a top ventilation which I think is where the air is being pulled into my PC, it has a dust filter but i think it can still allow some dust to past through.

I am looking to install some intake fans in the front of the case with 2x Corsair ML 120 PWM fans, as I have them as spares. However I only have 1x 4 pin pwn socket so I am looking to purchase a fan splitter and connect then together to be able to connect to the motherboard.

Now I have a few questions in regards of this set up I want to do:

Will my build be able to support these 2 additional fans as intake fans.

Will I be able to control the speed of the intake fans or it will control the intake depending on the motherboard since its PWM. I also plan to use dust filters for the front of the intake fans as my PC Case has rather larger holes in the front that can attract alot of dust if not filtered.

I have 3 possible place to install the Corsair ML 120 120mm fans in the front of the case. Where is the best place to install them. Top, middle and bottom. I would think the top and middle as it brings intake air to the whole system and to the CPU, AiO liquid cooling and the GPU. The bottom space is covered only by the PSU.

My PC Specification are:
i7 8700k
Asus Prime Z370 P
Corsair H45 liquid cooling
GPU GTX 1060
480Gb SSD
16Gb Ram

 

[Lutfij]

If you're getting a PWM splitter that is connected to the CPU_Fan header, you will have the fans operate per your CPU temps. If it's on another header, you may need to fire up an app bundled with the board, AI Suite, and have that header paired to the CPU temps, effectively a fan curve.

You forgot to mention the make and model of your chassis.

 

[13thmonkey]

You've got one CPU fan header and 2 chassis fan headers, all 4 pin.

All series｜｜ASUS United Kingdom

you can select which is most suitable for you according to the product features, specifications or price, and view detailed product information.Then also compare different products or add favorite item to your personal list in product list of ASUS "All series"

www.asus.com

Install middle and bottom

 

[MikeTalem]

If you're getting a PWM splitter that is connected to the CPU_Fan header, you will have the fans operate per your CPU temps. If it's on another header, you may need to fire up an app bundled with the board, AI Suite, and have that header paired to the CPU temps, effectively a fan curve.

You forgot to mention the make and model of your chassis.

All the other headers are 4 pin like the CPU_Fan header, it won't control the fans depending on the CPU temps? I really don't know how to manage the fan speeds if it does not manage itself automatically.I purchased this build prebuilt so don't know the case make or model.

 

[MikeTalem]

You've got one CPU fan header and 2 chassis fan headers, all 4 pin.

All series｜｜ASUS United Kingdom

you can select which is most suitable for you according to the product features, specifications or price, and view detailed product information.Then also compare different products or add favorite item to your personal list in product list of ASUS "All series"

www.asus.com

Install middle and bottom

Yes I would be connecting the 2 intake fans by fan splitters and connect the female plug into the closest chassis fan header. Would that be any problems?

Also why install middle and bottom? and not top and middle?

 

[13thmonkey]

If you do top and middle there is nothing encouraging air movement at the bottom of the case and there could be warm spots developing.

 

[Paperdoc]

For your set-up you COULD use a fan SPITTER, but may not need to. Just for reference, a Splitter has one "arm" that ends in a female (with holes) fan connector that plugs into a mobo fan header, and two (or more) output "arms" that end in male (with pins) connectors, and that's where the fans plug in. It has NO other types of arm. A HUB is a different device that also has s third "arm" that must plug into a SATA or Molex power output connector from the PSU and is useful for 4-pin fan systems when you plan a lot of fans. But for your plan, a Splitter is sufficient, somewhat like this

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Prod..._re=coboc_fan_splitter-_-12-423-161-_-Product

HOWEVER, you have TWO CHA_FAN headers on your mobo and two fans, so you do not even need a Splitter. Each of those CAN do full automatic control of the new front intake fans. Here's how to configure those headers. See the manual here

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...2.1324537321.1553536504-1856104645.1502368712

and go to section 2.7.5 on p. 3-39

For EACH header set Control to PWM Mode for use with 4-pin fans. For Source, set to Motherboard for case ventilation, not the CPU internal sensor. For Speed Low Limit, those fans want 400 RPM. For Profile, set to Standard to use the pre-programmed cooling settings. When done both headers. remember to SAVE and EXIT to save your settings and reboot. This way the front fans will be adjusted for you automatically as workload changes, according to the temperature measured by a sensor on the mobo.

You should install dust filters (often thin sheets of porous foam) both on the intake sides of the front panel openings and on the top openings. Then, no matter which way air enters at those areas, the dust will get caught before it enters your case. Remember to clean those filters occasionally.

 

[MikeTalem]

For your set-up you COULD use a fan SPITTER, but may not need to. Just for reference, a Splitter has one "arm" that ends in a female (with holes) fan connector that plugs into a mobo fan header, and two (or more) output "arms" that end in male (with pins) connectors, and that's where the fans plug in. It has NO other types of arm. A HUB is a different device that also has s third "arm" that must plug into a SATA or Molex power output connector from the PSU and is useful for 4-pin fan systems when you plan a lot of fans. But for your plan, a Splitter is sufficient, somewhat like this

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423161&Description=coboc fan splitter&cm_re=coboc_fan_splitter--12-423-161--Product

HOWEVER, you have TWO CHA_FAN headers on your mobo and two fans, so you do not even need a Splitter. Each of those CAN do full automatic control of the new front intake fans. Here's how to configure those headers. See the manual here

https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/...2.1324537321.1553536504-1856104645.1502368712

and go to section 2.7.5 on p. 3-39

For EACH header set Control to PWM Mode for use with 4-pin fans. For Source, set to Motherboard for case ventilation, not the CPU internal sensor. For Speed Low Limit, those fans want 400 RPM. For Profile, set to Standard to use the pre-programmed cooling settings. When done both headers. remember to SAVE and EXIT to save your settings and reboot. This way the front fans will be adjusted for you automatically as workload changes, according to the temperature measured by a sensor on the mobo.

You should install dust filters (often thin sheets of porous foam) both on the intake sides of the front panel openings and on the top openings. Then, no matter which way air enters at those areas, the dust will get caught before it enters your case. Remember to clean those filters occasionally.

Thank you for your detailed explanation Paperdoc.
Yes my motherboard has enough fan headers, but for front case intake fans, the other fan headers is too far away and bad for cable management as it is located above the GPU.
That is why I was thinking of using a fan splitter to connect the 2 front case intake fan and attach it to the fan header that is located next to the memory dimm slots. Easier connection and cable management. I ask if this set up is fine to control the speed as I am unsure how the fan speeds will be determined. Whether its automatically because it is also a 4 pin fan header or I need to go into bios or install Asus software to control the fan speed.
Also I know the CPU Header controls the fan speed for my AiO liquid cooling, but was thinking are the other fan headers the same as the CPU Header as they are also 4 pin PWN sockets.
But from your explanation and the manual, it seems like I will need to go into the settings in the bios to make these changes.

The fan splitters I plan to use are these that has 4 pin connectors on all ends:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Splitter-C...1553551937&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=fan+slitters



The top of my case already has a filter there that came with the case, but its not the ultra thin sheets and it is a 240mm x 120mm filter and the holes can still allow dust in, something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mxfans-Com...sr=8-21-spons&keywords=fan+dust+filters&psc=1



Unlike the ultra thin filters I plan to install in front of my PC intake fans. I will be using 3x 140mm ultra thin fan filters but install corsair 120mm ML 120 fans.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SilverSton...d=1553551197&sr=8-3&keywords=fan+dust+filters

But I will only install 2 fans, one at the bottom and one in the middle like 13thmonkey suggested.

As you can see I am not experienced in doing these changes and hope I do not make any mistakes.

 

[Paperdoc]

Your plan sounds good. Let me add a bit to help understand a few details.

Using one of those Splitters you linked to will be just fine for connecting the front fans to a single CHA_FAN header. When you do this, there are a couple details to know. One is that such a mobo fan header normally can supply up to 1.0 A max current to its total load. the Corsair ML120 Pro fans have a spec of 0.225 A max each, or 0.45 A total max current draw for two. No problem at all. Next, understand hat any mobo fan header can accept the speed signal from only ONE fan (more than one causes confusion and bad readings), so the Splitter will only send back the speed of one of its fans. On the Amazon page where those are shown, look very closely at the close-up shot of the pair of output connectors. One has all four of its pins, and the other is missing Pin #3. That is how the Splitter "ignores" the speed signal from the second fan. This has NO impact on ability to control the fan speeds. Both fans will receive the same power and control signals and, since they are a matched pair, will run at very nearly the same speed. They both will be automatically controlled by the CHA_FAN header. This "missing" speed signal has only one small impact. The CHA_FAN header uses that signal to monitor for fan FAILURE, which is a different function. Since it cannot monitor both fans on the Splitter, it is up to you to check from time to time that they both are working.

The CPU_FAN header and the CHA_FAN headers do virtually the same job with small differences. One is that each uses its own target temperature, depending on what hardware you have installed. But that detail is done for you - you do not need to make any adjustment there. The small adjustments I recommended for the most part are actually the default settings, except that the manual says these headers are set by default to use the temperature sensor inside the CPU chip to guide them. For case ventilation fans this is not correct, so the CHA_FAN headers should be set to use the Motherboard temperature sensor.

Regarding the dist filters, they work by what's called the "filtration model" - surprise! They are made with small holes. At first when they are completely clean and air containing a broad distribution of dust particle sizes passes through them, the smallest particles just go right through but the longest ones get caught on the edges of the holes, and form little "bridges" across the hole. Effectively this means that each hole gets smaller because its opening is split into two smaller openings. Then smaller particles can get stuck across the smaller openings, making them smaller yet. As this builds up layers of particles, the mat becomes s labyrinth of air flow channels that get progressively smaller over time as the plug up with more and smaller particles. So, over time, the filter becomes MORE efficient at removing smaller dust particles, but it also becomes MORE of an impediment to air flow. Eventually you decide that air flow is too restricted and clean off all the accumulated dust, returning it to its clean state. And then the cycle repeats.So the main difference related to the size of the mesh in the filter is how quickly its air passages get made smaller to increase its improved efficiency for small particle removal. But related to that is also how quickly it becomes so clogged that you need to clean it.

 

[MikeTalem]

Your plan sounds good. Let me add a bit to help understand a few details.

Using one of those Splitters you linked to will be just fine for connecting the front fans to a single CHA_FAN header. When you do this, there are a couple details to know. One is that such a mobo fan header normally can supply up to 1.0 A max current to its total load. the Corsair ML120 Pro fans have a spec of 0.225 A max each, or 0.45 A total max current draw for two. No problem at all. Next, understand hat any mobo fan header can accept the speed signal from only ONE fan (more than one causes confusion and bad readings), so the Splitter will only send back the speed of one of its fans. On the Amazon page where those are shown, look very closely at the close-up shot of the pair of output connectors. One has all four of its pins, and the other is missing Pin #3. That is how the Splitter "ignores" the speed signal from the second fan. This has NO impact on ability to control the fan speeds. Both fans will receive the same power and control signals and, since they are a matched pair, will run at very nearly the same speed. They both will be automatically controlled by the CHA_FAN header. This "missing" speed signal has only one small impact. The CHA_FAN header uses that signal to monitor for fan FAILURE, which is a different function. Since it cannot monitor both fans on the Splitter, it is up to you to check from time to time that they both are working.

The CPU_FAN header and the CHA_FAN headers do virtually the same job with small differences. One is that each uses its own target temperature, depending on what hardware you have installed. But that detail is done for you - you do not need to make any adjustment there. The small adjustments I recommended for the most part are actually the default settings, except that the manual says these headers are set by default to use the temperature sensor inside the CPU chip to guide them. For case ventilation fans this is not correct, so the CHA_FAN headers should be set to use the Motherboard temperature sensor.

Regarding the dist filters, they work by what's called the "filtration model" - surprise! They are made with small holes. At first when they are completely clean and air containing a broad distribution of dust particle sizes passes through them, the smallest particles just go right through but the longest ones get caught on the edges of the holes, and form little "bridges" across the hole. Effectively this means that each hole gets smaller because its opening is split into two smaller openings. Then smaller particles can get stuck across the smaller openings, making them smaller yet. As this builds up layers of particles, the mat becomes s labyrinth of air flow channels that get progressively smaller over time as the plug up with more and smaller particles. So, over time, the filter becomes MORE efficient at removing smaller dust particles, but it also becomes MORE of an impediment to air flow. Eventually you decide that air flow is too restricted and clean off all the accumulated dust, returning it to its clean state. And then the cycle repeats.So the main difference related to the size of the mesh in the filter is how quickly its air passages get made smaller to increase its improved efficiency for small particle removal. But related to that is also how quickly it becomes so clogged that you need to clean it.

Thank you for your detailed explanation again Paperdoc.

You explained how the fan splitter works, however if the fan splitter only reads the fan that is connected to the 4 pin and not the 3 pin, wouldn't it just monitor the fan that is connected to the 4 pin only?
If there are problems with the fan or there are fan failures, wouldn't it be obvious that if the fan that fails is connected to the 4 pin, it should show up since it has the speed signal. only the other fan that is connected by the 3 pin would not show up if it does fail. But I can also check if any of the fan has failed by visual? since I have a side panel that I can look into my build and just check.

I went into my bios today and because my PC build is a prebuilt PC by a company, I could see that the AiO Pump is connected to the CPU Header fan, and the CHA Fan 2 is also connected. But I have a push/pull fan. So I dont know how it only shows 1 reading of my fan only.
I have the original Corsair H45 Fan behind the radiator pulling heat away, and a rgb fan that I can not get any specification on, doing the push. I reckon the company that built this wanted to mount the rgb fan taht came with the case in front to display the rgb. But that is 2 fans connected to my H45 cooling, so there should be 2 cpu fan connection somewhere but all i can see is one CHA Fan being using behind the AiO liquid cooling.
Unless both the push and pull fan are connected together and plugged into that 1 CHA FAN Header.

Also I am planning to replace my RAMS with Corsair Rams and have some question about using xmp/dohc but I will open another thread in the correct thread for that.

Edit: Okay so I took a look through the filter on the top of my tower case. I can see that the H45 AiO Pump is connected to the CPU Header. And the Corsair Fan is connected to CHA FAN. However the rgb fan that is connected in front of the H45 Liquid cooling, while the wire is being led behind the motherboard. And I cant see anything else. Is the rgb fan being connected to the PSU and is not being controlled by the motherboard?
So the rgb fan being mounted in front of the H45 cooling doing the Push, is just for aesthetics?

 

[Paperdoc]

To confirm, you have a ASUS Prime Z370 P mobo, and a Corsair H45 AIO cooling system for your CPU chip. That unit's radiator has both the included Corsair 4-pin PWM fan AND a second RGB fan attached in push/pull, with the RGB fan positioned to be visible from the front. What you say about the connections for those sounds wrong, so please re-examine carefully. If they are not as they should be, I will suggest you re-configure them AFTER we get more info figured out.

For back ground to understand, the H45 cooler system is intended to operate this way. The pump unit has a 3-pin connection cable and should always run at full speed. To make this happen they use a quirk of the way 3- and 4-pin fans and headers operate when mis-matched. When you plug a 3-pin "fan" (in this case, the pump) into a 4-pin header that really is using the new PWM Mode to control, that pump will always receive the full +12 VDC power supply and run full speed. Then the FANS on the radiator are supposed to be plugged into the mobo CPU_FAN header, which will manipulate the speed of those fans according to the internal CPU chip temperature. For this to work, BOTH fans in that push/pull arrangement should be connected to the single CPU_FAN header using a SPLITTER, and BOTH fans need to be of the 4-pin variety to make it easy. If one of them is only 3-pin, an adjustment can be made for that.

Your mobo has one CPU_FAN header , and both fans on the radiator should be plugged in there using a Splitter like the ones we talked about earlier. For the RGB fan you have not told us what that is. That may not matter., but we do need to clarify exactly what type it is, so without any fan label we'll need to examine its characteristics. Fans with lights in their frames come in three main varieties. The earliest ones were called LED Fans. In them the LED units are simply connected in parallel with the fan motor to get whatever power the motor gets. You have no way to change the LED lighting display, and there is only ONE cable from the motor that ends in a female (with holes) fan connector for either a 3- or 4-pin connection to a fan header. More recently there are two versions of what are called RGB Fans. In both, the RGB LED's in the frame are powered and controlled separately from the motor, so the unit has TWO cables from it. One ends in a 3- or 4-pin fan connector (female) and goes to a mobo fan header. The other ends in a wider connector also with holes. The lighting displays can be changed over time in terms of patterns, colours and brightness. In the simpler variation called plain RGB, there are 4 holes in a row. In the more complex design called Addressable RGB (or ADDR RGB or ARGB) there are three holes, arranged like the 4-hole system but with one hole blocked off. This connector plugs into a different mobo header, but your mobo does NOT have one of those. THAT is what leads me to question the details of the "RGB Fan" mounted on your radiator. So, looking at it carefully, does it really have TWO cables from it (one type or RGB Fan), or only ONE (that's an LED Fan)? And, does the fan connector on the end have 3 holes or 4?

Once we know the details of the two fans on the radiator I can advise the best way to connect them and the H45's pump unit. Then we can return to the case ventilation fans that will be connected to CHA_FAN headers. Don't change anything yet, until the overall plan can be set based on added info.

 

[MikeTalem]

To confirm, you have a ASUS Prime Z370 P mobo, and a Corsair H45 AIO cooling system for your CPU chip. That unit's radiator has both the included Corsair 4-pin PWM fan AND a second RGB fan attached in push/pull, with the RGB fan positioned to be visible from the front. What you say about the connections for those sounds wrong, so please re-examine carefully. If they are not as they should be, I will suggest you re-configure them AFTER we get more info figured out.

For back ground to understand, the H45 cooler system is intended to operate this way. The pump unit has a 3-pin connection cable and should always run at full speed. To make this happen they use a quirk of the way 3- and 4-pin fans and headers operate when mis-matched. When you plug a 3-pin "fan" (in this case, the pump) into a 4-pin header that really is using the new PWM Mode to control, that pump will always receive the full +12 VDC power supply and run full speed. Then the FANS on the radiator are supposed to be plugged into the mobo CPU_FAN header, which will manipulate the speed of those fans according to the internal CPU chip temperature. For this to work, BOTH fans in that push/pull arrangement should be connected to the single CPU_FAN header using a SPLITTER, and BOTH fans need to be of the 4-pin variety to make it easy. If one of them is only 3-pin, an adjustment can be made for that.

Your mobo has one CPU_FAN header , and both fans on the radiator should be plugged in there using a Splitter like the ones we talked about earlier. For the RGB fan you have not told us what that is. That may not matter., but we do need to clarify exactly what type it is, so without any fan label we'll need to examine its characteristics. Fans with lights in their frames come in three main varieties. The earliest ones were called LED Fans. In them the LED units are simply connected in parallel with the fan motor to get whatever power the motor gets. You have no way to change the LED lighting display, and there is only ONE cable from the motor that ends in a female (with holes) fan connector for either a 3- or 4-pin connection to a fan header. More recently there are two versions of what are called RGB Fans. In both, the RGB LED's in the frame are powered and controlled separately from the motor, so the unit has TWO cables from it. One ends in a 3- or 4-pin fan connector (female) and goes to a mobo fan header. The other ends in a wider connector also with holes. The lighting displays can be changed over time in terms of patterns, colours and brightness. In the simpler variation called plain RGB, there are 4 holes in a row. In the more complex design called Addressable RGB (or ADDR RGB or ARGB) there are three holes, arranged like the 4-hole system but with one hole blocked off. This connector plugs into a different mobo header, but your mobo does NOT have one of those. THAT is what leads me to question the details of the "RGB Fan" mounted on your radiator. So, looking at it carefully, does it really have TWO cables from it (one type or RGB Fan), or only ONE (that's an LED Fan)? And, does the fan connector on the end have 3 holes or 4?

Once we know the details of the two fans on the radiator I can advise the best way to connect them and the H45's pump unit. Then we can return to the case ventilation fans that will be connected to CHA_FAN headers. Don't change anything yet, until the overall plan can be set based on added info.

Yes I have a Asus Prime Z370 P mobo, and a Corsair H45 AIO cooling for my CPU. The Unit has a Corsair 4 pin pwn fan and a 3 pin connector for the pump. The PC case i bought with the package has a rgb fan at the back as an exhaust. But since this is where the Corsair H45 AIO cooling is mounted, I think the builders thought it was best to take the Corsair 4 pin pwn fan off the front and place it on the back, changing it from a push fan, into the pull fan for the radiator. And the rgb fan that came with the case, is now working as the push fan, mounted in front of the radiator.
So the 3pin Pump wire is connected to the CPU Header, instead of the available AIO Pump Header that is available on my motherboard, and the Corsair 4 pin pwn fan is connected on the CHA Header 2 located jsut above the GPU, since this fan is the fan mounted onto the back of the case, acting as an exhaust and pulling heat away from the radiator, it is logical for this fan to be connected to the CHA Header 2.
I asked Corsair about this set up and they said it was totally fine, they explained something how radiator tends to fail before the fan does, and having it on the CPU Header was normal instead of the AIO Pump, this was contradicting their own installation guide but said that the instruction were for basic installation or something.

My idle temperature are 20-30 and gaming around 40 degrees, never passing 50. But I have no intake fans and was thinking when summer comes it will be hotter and should install intake fans soon.

As for the rgb fan mounted on the front of the radiator, well I took off the side panel and can confirm that the 3 pin wire for the rgb fan does indeed leads behind the mobo, but the 3 pin head isn't connected to anything, but instead 2 additional wire comes out along side the 3 pin wires and the 2 wires lead up to a 4 pin molar head connected to another molex which leads to the PSU.

So the rgb fan mounted on the front of the H45 AIO cooling is not connected to the mobo and only to the PSU.
I have looked everywhere to find out what this rgb fan is, but there is no information, I also contacted the builder but they said its just a normal rgb fan that came with the case with no specifications. This is a LED fan where you cant change the lights, I can see 4 bulbs on each side of the fan shining across it. So I think your first explaination of LED Fans is the type of fan I got with this case, the earliest ones. So the fan I have is a LED Fan and not rgb, I apologies.

 

[Paperdoc]

Great, thanks for those details! Now I understand what you have and can recommend a plan.

For the H45 system and its radiator fans, here's the optimum. The PUMP's 3-pin connector should go to the mobo AIO PUMP header. In bios Setup (,manual p. 2-40, set its Control to PWM Mode so the pump will always receive the full +12 VDC power supply it need on Pin #2.

The 4-pin fan that came with the H45 system should go to the mobo CPU_FAN header. Set it (p. 38) to PWM Mode and Standard Profile. This provides PWM control based on the CPU chip's internal temperature. The 3-pin LED fan on the other side of the radiator has a two-way connection system on it. It has a standard 3-pin female connector that can plug into a mobo fan header. But if that's not available, it also has a male 4-pin Molex connector (with only two wires installed) that plugs into a constant +12 VDC power supply from a Molex output of the PSU. This gives it power with no speed control. You can CHANGE that. DISconnect it from the PSU output and plug the 3-pin fan connector into the CHA_FAN2 header near rear middle of the mobo. In BIOS Setup (p. 2-39) for that header set it to use DC Mode and Standard Profile, and them set it to use CPU for the QFan Source. This will have its operation determined exactly the same way as the 4-pin fan on the CPU_FAN header, but use the proper DC Mode for control method.

When you get new intake fans, buy 4-pin models, Us either a Splitter (for 2 - 3 fans) or a Hub (for lots of new fans) and connect them all to the CHA_FAN1 header at the front edge. In BIOS Setup configure this header to use PWM Mode and Standard Profile, and to use the Motherboard QFan Source for its temperature sensor.

 

[MikeTalem]

Great, thanks for those details! Now I understand what you have and can recommend a plan.

For the H45 system and its radiator fans, here's the optimum. The PUMP's 3-pin connector should go to the mobo AIO PUMP header. In bios Setup (,manual p. 2-40, set its Control to PWM Mode so the pump will always receive the full +12 VDC power supply it need on Pin #2.

The 4-pin fan that came with the H45 system should go to the mobo CPU_FAN header. Set it (p. 38) to PWM Mode and Standard Profile. This provides PWM control based on the CPU chip's internal temperature. The 3-pin LED fan on the other side of the radiator has a two-way connection system on it. It has a standard 3-pin female connector that can plug into a mobo fan header. But if that's not available, it also has a male 4-pin Molex connector (with only two wires installed) that plugs into a constant +12 VDC power supply from a Molex output of the PSU. This gives it power with no speed control. You can CHANGE that. DISconnect it from the PSU output and plug the 3-pin fan connector into the CHA_FAN2 header near rear middle of the mobo. In BIOS Setup (p. 2-39) for that header set it to use DC Mode and Standard Profile, and them set it to use CPU for the QFan Source. This will have its operation determined exactly the same way as the 4-pin fan on the CPU_FAN header, but use the proper DC Mode for control method.

When you get new intake fans, buy 4-pin models, Us either a Splitter (for 2 - 3 fans) or a Hub (for lots of new fans) and connect them all to the CHA_FAN1 header at the front edge. In BIOS Setup configure this header to use PWM Mode and Standard Profile, and to use the Motherboard QFan Source for its temperature sensor.

Yes the way your telling me to reconnect the AIO liquid cooling was also what I read in the manual and asked both corsair and the company that build it say that that this is the basic setup but said the way my system is set up is better.
Tbh I don't know how it is better, but I am getting low temperatures. I think I should only change it if I decide to replace the front LED Fan. I can't get any specifications anywhere about the LED Fan, but I know the Corsair pull fan has max speed of 2200 rpm and think the LED Fan is only have of that. So the push fan is weaker than the pull fan.

As for the new intake fans I planned to do exactly what you said.

There isn't any problems I am experiencing with the AIO cooling, just the set up is not the same as the Corsair guide or my Asus mobo guide. But the company and Corsair said this set up is fine and both gave the explanation that its better for the water cooler 3pin to be connected to the CPU Header.

Also I just found another thread that said the same thing Corsair and the build company said:

https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...into-cpu-header-or-water-pump-header.2890775/

 

[Karadjgne]

Standard Corsair disclaimer. You have an Aio. That means you have 2 separate power needs. The fan and the pump. Out of those 2, Corsair could care less if the fan fails, your pc will keep cooling for a decent amount of time before temps become a problem. The pump, on the other hand, is what Corsair expects will fail first, and if it does, you don't have all that long before temps skyrocket. Part of your cpus job is to protect itself. It does that in several ways but includes a 0rpm warning. If the cpu detects 0rpm on the cpu_fan header, it'll shutdown or refuse to boot. If a pump fails, good chance it'll read as 0rpm. So Corsair's standard response/directions is to always put the pump on cpu_fan header and the aio fan on a cha_fan header. Which on your mobo is beyond redundant.

Gotta look at it from Corsair's point of view. The buyer of the aio could be a brainless moron or a pc genius or anywhere in between. So to cover their as....'s, they go with the moron as a buyer and set the aio up as such. Anyone with half a brain and tinkers in a pc almost automatically watches their temps anyway, so going contrarywise to instructions is accepted practice.

Most ppl will put the pump on the aio_pump/cpu_aux header, the aio fan on cpu_fan header (gives cpu temp control of fan speeds), the intakes on a header by the ram and rear/top exhausts on the header by the socket.

Right now you are correct. That rear set of fans is drawing in air from the case. It's going to have the strongest pull on the closest air source, those top vents. Wonder why that exhaust has a filter? That's why. You aren't pulling much if any from the front of the case. 2x intakes set mid-low will make a world of difference, and you'll want to try and keep rpms about 1.5x or better than whatever the rear of those aio fans is pulling. This'll keep air moving into the case from a filtered front source, and treat the top as an exhaust for heat, not as an intake for air.

 

[MikeTalem]

Standard Corsair disclaimer. You have an Aio. That means you have 2 separate power needs. The fan and the pump. Out of those 2, Corsair could care less if the fan fails, your pc will keep cooling for a decent amount of time before temps become a problem. The pump, on the other hand, is what Corsair expects will fail first, and if it does, you don't have all that long before temps skyrocket. Part of your cpus job is to protect itself. It does that in several ways but includes a 0rpm warning. If the cpu detects 0rpm on the cpu_fan header, it'll shutdown or refuse to boot. If a pump fails, good chance it'll read as 0rpm. So Corsair's standard response/directions is to always put the pump on cpu_fan header and the aio fan on a cha_fan header. Which on your mobo is beyond redundant.

Gotta look at it from Corsair's point of view. The buyer of the aio could be a brainless moron or a pc genius or anywhere in between. So to cover their as....'s, they go with the moron as a buyer and set the aio up as such. Anyone with half a brain and tinkers in a pc almost automatically watches their temps anyway, so going contrarywise to instructions is accepted practice.

Most ppl will put the pump on the aio_pump/cpu_aux header, the aio fan on cpu_fan header (gives cpu temp control of fan speeds), the intakes on a header by the ram and rear/top exhausts on the header by the socket.

Right now you are correct. That rear set of fans is drawing in air from the case. It's going to have the strongest pull on the closest air source, those top vents. Wonder why that exhaust has a filter? That's why. You aren't pulling much if any from the front of the case. 2x intakes set mid-low will make a world of difference, and you'll want to try and keep rpms about 1.5x or better than whatever the rear of those aio fans is pulling. This'll keep air moving into the case from a filtered front source, and treat the top as an exhaust for heat, not as an intake for air.

Thank you for your response Karadjgne.
So by what you are saying is that I should fix my AIO set up and plug the AIO Fan in the CPU_Header and the connect the pump into the aio_pump?

How would I set the 2x intake fans as 1.5x of the rear AIO fans?

The highest pull from the rear fan is 2200 rpm, my intake fans can go upto 2400rpm, but that would introduce a lot of noise. Wouldn't setting it as pwm and control by what the mobo think is best enough?

 

[Paperdoc]

Karadjgne makes very good points. One other factor that MAY be involved in the Corsair people's advice is this. As the system is set up now, one of the fans (the LED one connected to the PSU directly with no speed control) is always running full speed, which MAY be giving you more cooling than your CPU actually needs, but also may be generating a bit more noise than if it were running slower under automatic control. So hypothetically, if you change it as I suggested, you may see less cooling and slightly higher CPU temperatures because the current CPU temperature is cooler than it really needs to be. Some people will tell you any but cooler is bound to be better. Those who believe that even a few degrees is worth a lot will run all their fans full speed, and add extra fans to the system. Whether that actually lengthens CPU life is doubtful, but I bet has never been tested thoroughly. Besides, if the CPU actually is running a little cooler, then the automatic system feeding the fan supplied by Corsair will be running a bit slower while the LED fan they did NOT supply is running full speed and will wear out faster. But that won't make you complain to Corsair.

Letting the mobo do control of both those fans according to the temperature inside the CPU chip is probably best. To do that you can connect things as I suggested.

You are being misled by spec numbers, and unfortunately we can't fix that completely. The SPEED of a fan is only one factor in how much AIR FLOW it delivers. And air flow is what is important for removal of heat from a case, or from a radiator. For BOTH of the fans on the radiator there are no clear air flow specs on the web, so we cannot really tell how well matched or mismatched those two fans are. We can be sure of one thing, however: having two fans on the rad in a push / pull arrangement IS always going to be better than just one of those fans, even if they are mismatched in specs. The fact is that, in that arrangement, whatever air enters the push (intake) fan MUST also exit the pull (exhaust) fan, so they they both will actually deliver identical air flows. And if both are fed similar speed signals from headers, they will tend to augment each other in roughly the same manner throughout their range.

 

[KeyMB]

If using ml140 or whatever you choose, why not use a commander pro and a fan hub and control speeds and led through iCue software? Seems a bit easier than fan headers. Coming from myself, who had these fans and used my motherboard fan headers at first. Added more and wanted full control in one shot. The commander pro did this quite well. As well as manage my cpu cooler

 

[MikeTalem]

If using ml140 or whatever you choose, why not use a commander pro and a fan hub and control speeds and led through iCue software? Seems a bit easier than fan headers. Coming from myself, who had these fans and used my motherboard fan headers at first. Added more and wanted full control in one shot. The commander pro did this quite well. As well as manage my cpu cooler

I have 2 ml120 corsair fan already so either i return them to get ml140, or just keep the ml120. And well I wont be installing any rgb fans so no point paying for the expensive commander pro

 

[MikeTalem]

Karadjgne makes very good points. One other factor that MAY be involved in the Corsair people's advice is this. As the system is set up now, one of the fans (the LED one connected to the PSU directly with no speed control) is always running full speed, which MAY be giving you more cooling than your CPU actually needs, but also may be generating a bit more noise than if it were running slower under automatic control. So hypothetically, if you change it as I suggested, you may see less cooling and slightly higher CPU temperatures because the current CPU temperature is cooler than it really needs to be. Some people will tell you any but cooler is bound to be better. Those who believe that even a few degrees is worth a lot will run all their fans full speed, and add extra fans to the system. Whether that actually lengthens CPU life is doubtful, but I bet has never been tested thoroughly. Besides, if the CPU actually is running a little cooler, then the automatic system feeding the fan supplied by Corsair will be running a bit slower while the LED fan they did NOT supply is running full speed and will wear out faster. But that won't make you complain to Corsair.

Letting the mobo do control of both those fans according to the temperature inside the CPU chip is probably best. To do that you can connect things as I suggested.

You are being misled by spec numbers, and unfortunately we can't fix that completely. The SPEED of a fan is only one factor in how much AIR FLOW it delivers. And air flow is what is important for removal of heat from a case, or from a radiator. For BOTH of the fans on the radiator there are no clear air flow specs on the web, so we cannot really tell how well matched or mismatched those two fans are. We can be sure of one thing, however: having two fans on the rad in a push / pull arrangement IS always going to be better than just one of those fans, even if they are mismatched in specs. The fact is that, in that arrangement, whatever air enters the push (intake) fan MUST also exit the pull (exhaust) fan, so they they both will actually deliver identical air flows. And if both are fed similar speed signals from headers, they will tend to augment each other in roughly the same manner throughout their range.

So just to make it right and sure. From all the advice from you and Karadjgne, I should reconnect the AIO Pump to the Aio_Pump and the AIO Fan to the CPU_Fan?
I should be looking to replace the LED Fan with maybe another better fan and connect that to where? The CHA_Fan 2?

The pull fan for the corsair H45 AIO Cooling is around 2200rpm, and as for the LED Fan i think its 1000-1500, which is much lower being the push, and I should be looking to replace it aswell.

I want to correct my cooling set up first before installing new RAMS and overclocking them.