Internal temp too high, possible solutions?

Pr0p

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Nov 24, 2014
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Very inexperienced when it comes to building/handling computers, decided to build PC to avoid laptops. Followed guide provided by PCPartPicker for a gaming PC (http://pcpartpicker.com/blog/45/970-gaming-build) with a list of components here: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/vnqzFT

Anyways, put it together, but even idling the internal temps for several components are way too high: http://imgur.com/bInEB4T. Have no clue what's causing it, if I put the build together incorrectly, if the CPU cooler isn't functioning, anything. Since I'm still very bad with tech I'm way in over my head at this point. Any help/suggestions?

 
Solution
You don't need much thermal paste at all, just a dab. A little goes a long way. In reality it should look almost non existent when you pull the cooler block back off the cpu. Rather than look 'coated' it should look filmy. The concept is that the metal base plate of the water block and the top of the cpu are in direct contact with one another. The only purpose of the thermal paste is to fill in the microscopic imperfections or any incredibly slight variations from 100% true flatness of the mating surfaces to achieve higher face to face contact. A thick layer of it will act more like an insulating blanket and prevent heat transfer.

I've never used a closed loop all in one cooler, but I would think if you get down real close you should...
This may be a dumb question but due to being a beginning builder - did you use a thermal paste when installing the closed loop water cooler? Do you have any other case fans? I only see 2 fans, 1 cpu (I'm assuming) since the other says gpu fan. That cpu fan speed is awful low for those temps. Since you're using speedfan, do you purposely have your cpu (water cooler fan) turned down? Is the h80i fan plugged into the "cpu fan" plug on the motherboard?
 
My suggestions would be to turn it all off. Remove the cpu cooler and any thermal paste. Apply just a small dab of a quality thermal paste like arctic silver 5 about the size of a grain of rice in the center and re-attach - evenly fastening the water block to the processor to make sure it seats nice and flat to the cpu.

Make sure the h80i fans are plugged in and blowing out the back of the case (rather than backwards, sucking air into the case). Make sure both fans are working if using both. Also make sure there's an sata power cable plugged into the water pump adapter on the h80i. Maybe listen and see if it sounds like you can hear the pump, if the pump's not running then it's just sitting there overheating without proper water flow.

Looking at a review of the h80i, the fan speeds range from quiet (1100rpm) to max (2500rpm). That indication of 615rpm is WAY too slow, half of the 'quiet' or lowest setting that cooler is designed to run at. Maybe try using a program like hwinfo64 to get the temps of your processor and graphics card and uninstalling speedfan for the time being to make sure it's not somehow interfering.
 

Pr0p

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Nov 24, 2014
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4,510




I have removed the plastic cover and already applied thermal paste, but I'll do as you say with the reapplication of it.

All of the fans are definitely running (two for cpu, one in front pre-installed in case and one for psu) and blowing in the correct direction.

I'll check to make sure the cooler is actually plugged in correctly, as it not running in the first place is a problem I'd overlook as a computer novice, and I'll see if I can get the fan(s) running higher. I'll report back hopefully later tonight. Thanks to all for the suggestions
 
You don't need much thermal paste at all, just a dab. A little goes a long way. In reality it should look almost non existent when you pull the cooler block back off the cpu. Rather than look 'coated' it should look filmy. The concept is that the metal base plate of the water block and the top of the cpu are in direct contact with one another. The only purpose of the thermal paste is to fill in the microscopic imperfections or any incredibly slight variations from 100% true flatness of the mating surfaces to achieve higher face to face contact. A thick layer of it will act more like an insulating blanket and prevent heat transfer.

I've never used a closed loop all in one cooler, but I would think if you get down real close you should hear the pump to some degree. Probably like a small fishtank pump noise softly purring or humming. Hopefully you can hear it over the fans to ensure the pump is moving the coolant since there's no way to see it moving.
 
Solution