Introduction to Watercooling

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shawnlizzle =]

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ack, no way can even a dual 80mm radiator handle both a cpu+gpu. those things have pretty much the same cooling as a single 120mm radiator. its generally recommended that you don't use a 120mm radiator for both teh cpu and the gpu. now, you can use a dual 80mm radiator just for the cpu. but don't expect high overclocks at all. if you have one of the preshotts, then don't even expect decent cooling.

<font color=red>gforce mx100/200 @ 230/440 =]</font color=red>
 

scottchen

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WTF are you talking about?! The HWlabs, Black ice Micro 2, beats out the Black Ice Pro any day, by a LOT, and a single Black Ice pro can cool a CPU block with 226watt peltier nicely, a Micro 2 will cool a CPU+GPU easily, and beats out XP120+VGA Silencer.
 

scottchen

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LOL... why me, i don't have great connection with watercooling resellers, i only got a few good deals from bigfoot and compuvision, they're not going to give me something for free. Note how i said use 4x80mm silent fans, since that radiator is so thick, it achieves best performance with 4 lower airflow fans, than 2 high flow fans.
 

shawnlizzle =]

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actually its the other way around for the fans, i know that for sure, but i forgot where i read the test T_T. but basically, the push/pull config adds very little to the cfm and air pressure. while 2 high powered fans adds alot.

<font color=red>gforce mx100/200 @ 230/440 =]</font color=red>
 

scottchen

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I get better performance on my black ice pro 2 for my video card with 4 everflow fans(47CFM/24dB) 25mm thick as oppose to 2 delta(151.85/53dBa@7V so about 80CFM with noise level at at least 40dBa at 2M) 38mm thick fans. It runs 2C cooler idle, and 5C lower on load, on the 4 fan setup, but i don't really trust my X800XL's sensor, it tells me my card only loads at 24C.

But these are just my results, maybe other people has different results with (more, silent/less, powerful) fan, but i like the quiteness:D
 

marlborosmoker

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Not that I plan on watercooling anytime soon, is there a point where HSF's are more effcient at dissipating heat than watercooling?Like if I'm averaging 30C at load am I likely to see any benefits from water cooling?
 

shawnlizzle =]

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well, it really depends on the ambient temperature, idealy, you would want to reduce the delta between the ambient and your core temperature.

generally speaking, a good watercooling system will have a smaller delta between ambient and core than air cooling
 

lankiller

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Swiftech makes best cooling kits on market,
Koolance makes best gpu/cpu blocks on the market
Gigabyte makes best noob cooling system with good performance
Best complete liquid cooled case is koolance's 1000watt in a lian case. Things awesome!!
Best noob cases are gigabyte mecury and swiftech's antec

basic three lines used 1/4, 3/8, 1/2.

Heres great way to setup the system up

1) take outta the box install everything so cuts are perfect lines run nice (p.s. do not put water in it)
2) take all electrical components out and let water system run for couple hours in the case with water (24 hours to be safe)
3) check for water on anything (especially joints)
4) reinstall all components and ur good!!

Also want anti-fungal (algee) solution to keep nasty stuff from building up in the system. Monitor temps or set bios to shut off under certain temps along with a flow monitor is also a good idea!!

Use distilled water!! Less reactive water and prevents corrosion build up in the lines and on the blocks!!

P.s. stay away from thermaltake they stink. They use an Acrylic cpu cover! Acrylic tends to crack under high heat, like an over clocked cpu, yay not good!! Also solution does not have any anti-fungal adds. The pumps are very weak and most systems run a 1/4 pipe ekkkk!! The thermaltide has horrible gpu conntection and does not have noob protection against over tighting the screw

Also most liquid coolers only cover the gpu. Most high end card today require the whole card to be cooled not just the gpu. The voltage requlators on most high end cards can run extrememly hot; the ram also can get pretty toasty. Good rule of thumb is to cool whole card for any 8800, gtx, 2900xt, xtx card. There are many good full card liquid cooling solutions out there for these cards and can even purchase the voltage regulator cooling block.

anywayz thats about it. If used correctly, liquid cooling can do wonders!!
 

Mugz

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I still want to know why people keep on saying the CM Aquagate is a piece o'crap. [/refusing to admit a 9ºC average room temp has anything to do with it]
 

myerz

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This is my first attempt at water cooling but i have been building comps for the past 5 years as a side job. I just ordered a Q6600, an Abit IP35 Pro and 2 x 1GB Crucial Ballistix. I'm only gonna be cooling the Q6600 and the P35 NB with my setup as my vid card idles at 52C and under load it never goes above 62C. My budget is about $250 and i want something that is quiet and still performs well. So far i have the MCP655 picked out for the pump, the MCW30 for the NB block, the Apogee GT for the cpu block, the MCR220 for the rad, and these fans for the rad http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811999099 Do you think that will be sufficient for my setup? Here is a link to my case http://www.gideontech.com/content/articles/364/1 It has pre-drilled holes for water as you can see in the 4th picture. People have told me not to use a reservoir and to just use a T line instead to save myself some money. What tubing/coolant/misc parts do you recommend that i use? Oh, my ambient temp is 20C at all times btw. Thanks for taking the time to read this! current setup

Antec 900
Opty 165 @ 2.9 @1.35 vcore
Zalman 9700
DFI NF4-D
2 x 1GB OCZ Platinum @ 485 3-4-4-8
2 x 74GB Raptors RAID0
X-Fi XtremeGamer
OCZ Gamexstream 700
8800 GTS 640 @ 700/1050


 

kaboooom2000uk

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Hmmm, would i be able to use oil as a cooling fluid, like used in transformers. id say thats less risky to use than conducting water. Maybe il do a test and post my results

 

spathotan

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Oil is too thick, the pump would fail within minutes if not quicker more than likely, then its all downhill from there, actually downhill before that because even if the pump dosent fail I doubt it could push something so thick completely through the loop.
 

rubix_1011

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I don't think its a case that you couldn't use oil...you would have to use something very thin like mineral oil or of that consistency. Your biggest problem would lie in the pump and your O-rings of your blocks (if they have them) as the oil might degrade them and cause leaks. Your pump impeller is likley made of plastic, which is also a petroleum product...so you run the risk of your tubing, pumps, rings and blocks degrading from the oil.

It's the same concept they warn you about when using baby oil or vaseline with condoms; they break down the rubber used and let what is inside, out. Not cool.

Even if you have pump failure, you aren't going to have immediate meltdown of your components. I had one of those old MCW350 pumps that would intermittenly 'not turn on' unless you tapped on the top. It just meant that your CPU and GPU slowly heated up because the water didn't circulate, but it was over the course of several minutes. Most people really don't understand the thermal capacity of water and the amount of heat it can actually absorb. This is why you don't have the often misunderstood 'boiling water melting successive components in a loop' theory. If you have water flow over your CPU, NB and GPU, the water isn't 'super heated' when it gets to your GPU...check your load temps. Mine is 42C with water vs 80C+ with stock cooling. Typically, your GPU is the biggest heat producing component, and typically last in the loop before hitting your radiator(s). If anything, your temps will be fairly similar across most of your components and will rise and fall gradually, mostly dependent on ambient temps, heavy load and your heat exchanger (radiator) ability.

Edit: We need a new sticky with updated information that addresses some common misconceptions, Q/A or FYI items, along with pictures and links to good WC sites. I think something along the lines of the PSU tier stickies are in order for most watercooling components. I don't mind working on this, but I ask that suggestions and links be provided, along with any good pics (with IMG links).
 

The Taz

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Hi i am running a Q6600 cpu stable at 3.6 GHz,on a asua p5q motherboard with 2GB of ram,

Case --- Thermaltake Armor LCS VE2000BWS
PSU------Jeantech Storm 700w sli/cross-fire
Nvidia Geforce 9400 GT
Corsair XMS2 Dominator PC2-8600

just been overclocking again change fsb frequency,dram frequency and cpu voltage and hit the 4.0GHz and runs stable .
not bad for a 2.4GHZ and the setup lol
 

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/252455-29-water-cooled-computer#t1801333
 

notguru

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This looks like a very interesting, long thread and I will enjoy reading it, but first I must ask: Is there any risk of condensation damage with water cooling? Or a risk of the water spontaneously spilling out onto my components?
 

notguru

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I still haven't read the intro yet, but I just bought a HAF 932 case by Cooler Master. Apparently there's a lot of potential for water cooling in that case... If anyone has one of these, could you tell me if I need to remove the 230mm fan on top if I want to install a radiator?