Question is 500watt for an upcoming build enough ?

Jun 17, 2022
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I'm planning to get a new system using some parts of the currently used system to save money and I'm anxious 500w is not enough

The upcoming build:
i3-10100f
Zotac 1650 super twin-fan
Asrock b560m pro4
and some basic bare stick
2666mhz 2x8 GB ram

the other components not listed are coming from the old build.

back to the question:

I have a coolermaster 500w Elite V4 (80+ EU white)
Does it have enough power to supply the upcoming build ?
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
It's rather junky, so I wouldn't personally use it on any of my rigs under any circumstances, but as long as you have a GPU that doesn't require supplementary power, the risk is greatly reduced. Do make sure to go into BIOS and check that C6/C7 sleep states are disabled as this type of old, low quality unit can run into issues there on Haswell and later CPUs.
 
Jun 29, 2022
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I've personally used a 500W on a GTX 1660 and an i7. It'll run just fine, but it will destroy the base system. It'll work for a bit, but my computer would have a hard time starting up and occasionally crash on high-spec games. It is the bare minimum, but I recommend a 650W or higher. Trust me, the extra $100 will save you the chances of destroying other parts of your PC.
 

Zerk2012

Titan
Ambassador
I'm planning to get a new system using some parts of the currently used system to save money and I'm anxious 500w is not enough

The upcoming build:
i3-10100f
Zotac 1650 super twin-fan
Asrock b560m pro4
and some basic bare stick
2666mhz 2x8 GB ram

the other components not listed are coming from the old build.

back to the question:

I have a coolermaster 500w Elite V4 (80+ EU white)
Does it have enough power to supply the upcoming build ?
Your reusing a POS crap power supply I would never even buy one of those much less use it. They make a good door stop.

Spend some money and buy something decent.
 
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Karadjgne

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80+ white is the newer name for the original 80+ certification. Literally means it's 80/80/80 at 20/50/100% loads at Rated temp. If the rated temp (almost always is with those psus) is 30°C (the worst offenders use 20°C) , you can fully expect that continued heavy use will raise that temp well beyond that 30°C and upto anywhere near 50°C, at which point the efficiency drops like a hot potato.

80% efficiency means 20% of the power coming from the wall, into the pc is converted and lost as heat. So if the pc is using 320w when gaming, you pull 400w from the wall and 80w worth of heat is cooking the psu and getting blown out the rear.

Gaming loads on a White psu makes for a short lifespan, and generally means you can expect never to come close to actual rated power for anything longer than a few minutes at best before the efficiency goes right out the window, followed shortly thereafter by blue/black screens. If using 320w, and efficiency drops to 50%, that's 640w from the wall, 320w of heat and a cooked/fried/toasted psu.
 
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Jun 17, 2022
16
0
10
a bit of an update
I'm going to a 10400f and getting some advice from you guys
I bought a Seasonic s12lll 650 80+ bronze
and a T-create classic ddr4 (3200mhz)
and an aftermarket CPU cooler

so thankyou for the advice
I'm going to game a lot on this gaming pc
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
a bit of an update
I'm going to a 10400f and getting some advice from you guys
I bought a Seasonic s12lll 650 80+ bronze
and a T-create classic ddr4 (3200mhz)
and an aftermarket CPU cooler

so thankyou for the advice
I'm going to game a lot on this gaming pc

Do note that if you add a GPU later that requires supplementary power, you'll likely want to replace this PSU. This is not one of SeaSonic's quality PSUs, it's a very basic one that they cheaply farm out to a manufacturing partner rather than make yourself. It's usually not recommended because there usually tend to be better PSUs, such as modern Corsair CX PSUs around the same price.
 
Jun 17, 2022
16
0
10
Do note that if you add a GPU later that requires supplementary power, you'll likely want to replace this PSU. This is not one of SeaSonic's quality PSUs, it's a very basic one that they cheaply farm out to a manufacturing partner rather than make yourself. It's usually not recommended because there usually tend to be better PSUs, such as modern Corsair CX PSUs around the same price.

I live in indonesia and seasonic was cheaper the corsair cx

And also I allready bought it soo

No turning back until a reason then a little bit of less quality to change psu



So ima just yolo it for the next year or two
 

Karadjgne

Titan
Ambassador
That psu isn't actually an honest Seasonic. It's an older Seasonic group regulated platform subcontracted out to RSY for build under Seasonic lisence and brand.

It should work ok with a 1650 as they don't have the transient spikes of the larger gpus which is a major failing point in the older gpus. It should be Haswell+ ready for lower power states, but that may not be enough for the ultra low power states possible in the 10th gen+ cpus, so be careful with sleep mode.
 
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