Is this desktop a good purchase ?

JLiang

Commendable
Mar 9, 2016
31
0
1,530
My budget is 200-600. I mainly use it to watch movies and videos. In addition, I use it for college work such as Microsoft office and web-surfing. Therefore, my requirements are the ability to watch movies or videos in the 1080p (I believe it is the best quality now except the 4k) and being fast enough to run normal application and web-surfing without loading delays. I also have a semi-new Samsung pro ssd that I had from my laptop that I plan to put in the new tower. Is the desktop listed below a good purchase? Could the components be customized in the future? Can I downgrade the operating system to windows 7?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGT69OE/ref=twister_B015EC8J4W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


 
Solution
That depends on what graphics card you intend to get. Generally speaking, for most cards, I'd recommend the G2 550, but if you have or get a card that wants to see a higher capacity unit then the S12II would be better. Most cards should run easily on the G2 550 so unless you're getting an R9 290, 290x, 390 or 390x, or another really high end power hungry card I'd do the G2.
That's actually not "terrible", for the price, but when you factor in the fact that it's going to come with a very low quality power supply, really low end motherboard, includes a very low clock speed i5 at only 2.7Ghz, and is likely to not offer much in the way of case features and room in the event you decide to add drives or other hardware later, this would be a much better option (And faster) for slightly more. It would also probably last a lot longer without having to replace any of the low quality OEM parts.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($58.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($32.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 USB 3.0 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Antec Basiq 350W ATX Power Supply ($27.95 @ Directron)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($15.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $491.78
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-10 21:36 EST-0500


If assembling a unit isn't something you feel you can do, then the unit you outlined would probably be fine for what you want to do, just don't expect it to have the same level of longevity and reliability as one using all quality parts.
 
I never build a computer but I heard it is kind of similar to lego but how long does it take approximately to get it running? I also need a wifi because the router is at my sister's room. Is the fans included in the case?
 
How can you tell if the motherboard is inferior or not. Is this motherboard good enough for further upgrading in the future if I plan to turn it into a gaming system when I do have enough money?

Would a i3-6100 be a good choice and cheaper choice?
 
The i3 would be cheaper, but it wouldn't be "good" if you plan to turn it into a gaming system later. It could work, but considering the difference between the i5 that I listed, and the much less powerful i3-6100, which is only about 70 bucks, if you have plans to game on this machine you should really consider the i5 over the i3. The i3 CAN game, but it won't be AS good.

If the motherboard is an OEM unit, which that one is, then it is inferior, period. OEM manufacturers are in business to make the most amount of money with the least amount of investment, and generally that means using the cheapest parts they can reasonably get away with. You will not see a good aftermarket motherboard in any computer built by Dell, HP, ASUS, Lenovo or any other OEM system builder unless and except in a few very rare circumstances where it is a prebuilt high end gaming machine or workstation. Even then, it's extremely uncommon.


If you wanted a halfway capable system that could work for what you need now, but would be at least ok for gaming later, using an i3, then I'd suggest something like this, but the i5 would clearly be a better and more capable setup. Realize that while this isn't much cheaper than the other system I posted, it also includes a much better, higher capacity power supply that will be capable of supporting the majority of graphics cards in the even that you want to add one for gaming. If you plan to use a very high end AMD graphics card, you'll probably need a bigger PSU than this one. This should be fine for any graphics card up to an Nvidia GTX 970 or AMD R9 380x. Anything larger than that will require a bigger card, but I doubt you'll be getting anything near those, as you'll be limited by the i3 to some degree anyhow.


It also includes a larger, better case, to accomodate your graphics card and whatever else you may want to add. You could probably use the less expensive case included in the first build, but space might end up being a factor.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus B150M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($76.43 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill NT Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($32.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($55.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NSC0B DVD/CD Writer ($15.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $487.26
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 00:33 EST-0500

 
That actually looks pretty good. I think you'll be able to do just about whatever you want on that system, as long as you aren't trying to run high end CAD programs or doing anything graphically demanding, since you'll only have the integrated CPU graphics. Of course, that will change once you add a discreet graphics card, if you do at some point.
 
Are you specifically wanting an IPS panel for some reason? IPS displays have better color reproduction that is more accurate, but they also have issues with slow response times, which is bad for gaming, and most of them except very expensive models have some form of backlight bleed. If you don't have your heart set on an IPS panel, you might want to consider a TN panel instead. Current TN panels have gotten much better at accurate color accuracy and generally have better response times and no backlight bleed. If you want an IPS panel, I think I'd go with this one instead, as it has a much lower response time than that Dell.

If response time isn't a concern for you, then that Dell is a pretty good unit. Most Dell Ultrasharp displays are very respectable. These are some options though.

Also, are you specifically wanting a 24" unit for space constraint reasons, because you can get a very good 27" model within that same budget. I changed to a 27" 1080p unit and would never go back to a 24" model again.

I'll post those options after I hear back from you on the above questions.

 
If you want it for movies & video as well as general use then that Asus 27inch by miles mate.

Darkbreeze - the Asus MX is a seriously seriously good panel , had one for a customer build for a week or so & couldn't find a single thing bad to say about it, even the inbuilt speakers are damn good quality although not really loud enough.
 
I am interested in your recommendations. I just want a great display and the only reason I was interested in the dell u2415 is because I found a lot of great review. I read some review about the color inaccuracy and dead pixel with other monitors. I mean I expected to use the monitor for couple of years before replacing. I had always used laptops, so I am totally new with desktop. I will like a larger screen. I use it for watching movies and video during school times and game during breaks.
 
I hadn't looked at those other units yet, only the Dell.

Yes, that ASUS is a very good unit and seems to have no backbleed issues. It is only a 5ms response time, which for gaming might not be the very best option, but I have no idea at what level the OP may plan to game at, casual or serious.
 
I read some reviews saying that the color bleed and color exaggeration. So I sway away but thanks for the recommendation I might get that. Beside it is larger and a bit cheaper.
 
If you go with IPS, that ASUS is probably the best combination of price vs performance that you're likely to find.

If you want a very good, but not insanely expensive, gaming monitor, I'd suggest maybe looking at this one:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Monitor: BenQ RL2755HM 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($258.23 @ Amazon)
Total: $258.23
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 02:22 EST-0500




Or you want to find something a bit less expensive, this would also be a really good choice, but probably not as good a choice as the other two. As always, you get what you pay for, but in this case at least you'll actually GET what you paid for.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Monitor: BenQ GL2760H 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($189.00 @ B&H)
Total: $189.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 02:26 EST-0500
 
iknow darbreeze is the main solver here but i think hes murican(so sleeping) so i help u with this psu question before i go to school😛
thats good enough for now but you are telling me that u want to turn this machien into a gaming rig than this is not a good powersupply.
its a tier 4 psu and many of them blew up under high gaming situations: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ezk9OA7aKOE (funny its made by corsair their cx series are really abd unlike their rmi series)

Anyways these 2 are really nice for the price if u are from america.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $59.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 03:36 EST-0500

OR.....

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $69.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 03:36 EST-0500
 
Simply put, no. If you want clarification, you can read through the following thread, but you really want something that's either tier 1 or 2 if you plan to install a discreet graphics card at some point.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html


If you take a look through that rather lengthy thread too, you'll probably learn more about power supplies, or at least various opinions of them, than you ever cared to. I'd avoid all Corsair CX, CS, RM and VS units.
 
That depends on what graphics card you intend to get. Generally speaking, for most cards, I'd recommend the G2 550, but if you have or get a card that wants to see a higher capacity unit then the S12II would be better. Most cards should run easily on the G2 550 so unless you're getting an R9 290, 290x, 390 or 390x, or another really high end power hungry card I'd do the G2.
 
Solution