Question I've got a few problems with this NAS build ?

[johnnieso]

Ladies & Gents, I've came to a stop not sure if my build would work, a few problem arises... this NAS is mainly for file sharing between few PC & laptops at home, want to run PLEX as well. So I figure I put together a cheap NAS build using Jonsbo N3 NAS enclosure that has 8-bays for 3.5" HDDs + 1x SSD native spot with ASRock C236 WSI Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard with 2x16gb ECC rams, & Xeon E3-1200 v5 CPU that has some video transcoding capability so I dont need a GPU, and since the mobo only has 1x PCIe slot, I want to save it in case I want to fit a 10gb NIC card in it because the mobo only came with default 2x 1gb LAN port.

But then while looking for PSU, I realize the ASRock mobo uses a 24-pin while I search all SFX PSU that fits into Jonsbo N3 case (limit to 105mm length) all uses 18-pins instead. Also, PCpartpicker warns me its missing a power port for USB-C for front panel, which Im ok to skip that since I dont think I'll ever use the front USB port. So what am I missing or can I get some adapter to fix the 24-pin to 18-pin problem?

My NAS server build list here (Not complete): https://pcpartpicker.com/user/johnnieso/saved/WywNvK

 

[Lutfij]

But then while looking for PSU, I realize the ASRock mobo uses a 24-pin while I search all SFX PSU that fits into Jonsbo N3 case (limit to 105mm length) all uses 18-pins instead.
I'm trying to figure out what you're referring to with a 18pin connector.
https://www.asrockrack.com/general/productdetail.asp?Model=C236 WSI#Specifications

The motherboard needs a single 4pin EPS connection besides the 24pin connection and I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to with an 18pin connection from the PSU. The PSU's harness might have one end that's split with an 18pin connector and a 10pin connector but they will both terminate to a 24pin main connector for your motherboard(courtesy of a double wire).

You'll see this on practically all modular PSU's. I've seen it on Seasonic's M12II, Thermaltake's GF1 and Lian Li SP850(which is an SFX unit), to name a few I've worked with.

You can use this video as a guide;

View: https://youtu.be/GNMtmUOCtwI?t=2087

per se.

 

[johnnieso]

But then while looking for PSU, I realize the ASRock mobo uses a 24-pin while I search all SFX PSU that fits into Jonsbo N3 case (limit to 105mm length) all uses 18-pins instead.
I'm trying to figure out what you're referring to with a 18pin connector.
https://www.asrockrack.com/general/productdetail.asp?Model=C236 WSI#Specifications

The motherboard needs a single 4pin EPS connection besides the 24pin connection and I'm not exactly sure what you're referring to with an 18pin connection from the PSU. The PSU's harness might have one end that's split with an 18pin connector and a 10pin connector but they will both terminate to a 24pin main connector for your motherboard(courtesy of a double wire).

You'll see this on practically all modular PSU's. I've seen it on Seasonic's M12II, Thermaltake's GF1 and Lian Li SP850(which is an SFX unit), to name a few I've worked with.

You can use this video as a guide;

View: https://youtu.be/GNMtmUOCtwI?t=2087

per se.

ohhhh... I didn't know there's a cable that converts 18-pin into 24-pin in single cable.... I don't often build PC so I kept thinking the output connectors (numbers of pins) has to match the destination.... thanks for a quick tip, I learn something new every now & then

So all in all, is that a decent build for a NAS? Do you recommend I get a 10gb NIC card for the PCI slot?

 

[Misgar]

Do you recommend I get a 10gb NIC card for the PCI slot?

Yes. Even with slow RAID-Z2 hard disk arrays in True-NAS core, I get another 30MB/s over Gigabit speeds. 10Gb excels when transferring data between NVMe in different machines.

I use Solarflare SFN5122F ex server SFP+ NICs (cheaper than 10Gb Ethernet) with a Mikrotik switch.
https://mikrotik.com/product/crs305_1g_4s_in

You could use the more modern SFP7122F instead, or a Chinese clone of the 5122. N.B. The 5122 is PCIe Gen.2.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394229691187?_skw=sfn5122f&itmmeta=01K0ERD73206W9Z7AP5Y67KMB4&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1c8Tssja+x6bYZgNQVZPf4yWvqh46HtYMgYA3DwJqYxqSwh+8DTXaSWg2fIzmN+qvLOcVM8q6CEti3qzmhhaO/tCGfC5ynAFmmaMU3Jjvvz2e0U7/z8ame7ScAunxC6UsH9n37KuX9QZ5t0tHlZ3PHwn+kCx+D0Y/4raIHqZR1VTqYPSQEzE366jPNH6Ff2taqI8DhYlh1/s62RZ7slknxEsHyc5i07GEsDyxKViCHyoqMpg3gAGjcINr6YjGQWrMUhmc0kOoXMD10h3W4IigSa|tkp:BFBM2PG02INm

I also have a number of Asus XG-C100C Ethernet NICs:
https://www.asus.com/networking-iot-servers/wired-networking/all-series/xg-c100c/

Alternative 10Gb switches:
https://www.servethehome.com/the-ul...ers-guide-netgear-ubiquiti-qnap-mikrotik-qct/

 

[johnnieso]

Yes. Even with slow RAID-Z2 hard disk arrays in True-NAS core, I get another 30MB/s over Gigabit speeds. 10Gb excels when transferring data between NVMe in different machines.

I use Solarflare SFN5122F ex server SFP+ NICs (cheaper than 10Gb Ethernet) with a Mikrotik switch.
https://mikrotik.com/product/crs305_1g_4s_in

You could use the more modern SFP7122F instead, or a Chinese clone of the 5122. N.B. The 5122 is PCIe Gen.2.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394229691187?_skw=sfn5122f&itmmeta=01K0ERD73206W9Z7AP5Y67KMB4&itmprp=enc:AQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1c8Tssja+x6bYZgNQVZPf4yWvqh46HtYMgYA3DwJqYxqSwh+8DTXaSWg2fIzmN+qvLOcVM8q6CEti3qzmhhaO/tCGfC5ynAFmmaMU3Jjvvz2e0U7/z8ame7ScAunxC6UsH9n37KuX9QZ5t0tHlZ3PHwn+kCx+D0Y/4raIHqZR1VTqYPSQEzE366jPNH6Ff2taqI8DhYlh1/s62RZ7slknxEsHyc5i07GEsDyxKViCHyoqMpg3gAGjcINr6YjGQWrMUhmc0kOoXMD10h3W4IigSa|tkp:BFBM2PG02INm

I also have a number of Asus XG-C100C Ethernet NICs:
https://www.asus.com/networking-iot-servers/wired-networking/all-series/xg-c100c/

Alternative 10Gb switches:
https://www.servethehome.com/the-ul...ers-guide-netgear-ubiquiti-qnap-mikrotik-qct/

thanks for the tips! I just ordered your Mikrotik switch & SFN5122F

 

[Misgar]

thanks for the tips! I just ordered your Mikrotik switch & SFN5122F

The Gigabit Ethernet port on the Mikrotik can be used as an input or an output.

I run a 30m fibre cable from the broadband internet router upstairs (via a Netgear 10G switch) to the Mikrotik downstairs. I connect the 1G Ethernet port on the Mikrotik to a simple 1G switch for internet access on computers with no 10G fibre inputs.

Don't forget the DAC cables, or OM3 fibre optic cables + transceivers for longer runs.
https://www.servethehome.com/what-is-a-direct-attach-copper-dac-cable/

https://edgeoptic.com/kb_article/multimode-fiber-types/

I buy cheap second-hand optical transceivers on eBay for under $10 each, but be aware that not all transceivers will work with all SFP+ cards and switches.

In rare circumstances, you might need two different transceivers, to cope with awkward cards and switches, e.g. HP transceiver on one end and a Cisco transceiver on the other end.

Make sure you buy an OM3 fibre cable that fits in the dual socket on the transceiver. You'll probably need LC to LC. fibre. Also check your transceiver is rated at 10G SFP+, not 1G SFP.

You won't have this problem with Direct Attached Copper (DAC). I normally buy cheap second hand DAC cables on eBay.

If you get stuck, try this forum:
https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?search/3792044/&q=10gig+networking&o=relevance

 

[johnnieso]

The Gigabit Ethernet port on the Mikrotik can be used as an input or an output.

I run a 30m fibre cable from the broadband internet router upstairs (via a Netgear 10G switch) to the Mikrotik downstairs. I connect the 1G Ethernet port on the Mikrotik to a simple 1G switch for internet access on computers with no 10G fibre inputs.

Don't forget the DAC cables, or OM3 fibre optic cables + transceivers for longer runs.
https://www.servethehome.com/what-is-a-direct-attach-copper-dac-cable/

https://edgeoptic.com/kb_article/multimode-fiber-types/

I buy cheap second-hand optical transceivers on eBay for under $10 each, but be aware that not all transceivers will work with all SFP+ cards and switches.

In rare circumstances, you might need two different transceivers, to cope with awkward cards and switches, e.g. HP transceiver on one end and a Cisco transceiver on the other end.

Make sure you buy an OM3 fibre cable that fits in the dual socket on the transceiver. You'll probably need LC to LC. fibre. Also check your transceiver is rated at 10G SFP+, not 1G SFP.

You won't have this problem with Direct Attached Copper (DAC). I normally buy cheap second hand DAC cables on eBay.

If you get stuck, try this forum:
https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?search/3792044/&q=10gig+networking&o=relevance

wow.... I dont know all of those lol... lots to catch up... but my setup is simple one. in my apartment I use:

Wall coax connect to this modem:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IMPMW4?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

then modem connect to this router:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

then from your post, I will connect the router to the Mikrotik switch using therse RJ45's:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXM1WF2?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1

and using same RJ45s cables to connect the switch to my PC, the few laptops I had were on WIFI. Since if there's any work needs to "upload" things I would be using my PC which has RJ45 cable, the laptops on wifi were only to stream media from the NAS.

That works right?

 

[Misgar]

and using same RJ45s cables to connect the switch to my PC,

You're OK up this point, but you won't be able to use RJ45 cables to connect the Mikrotik switch to your computers, because you've already used the one and only RJ45 Ethernet port on the Mikrotik.

The other four ports on the Mikrotik are all SFP+ 10Gigabit, for Direct Attached Copper cable or Fibre Optic transceivers and OM3 cable. OM3 might work at up to 300m (1,000ft) at 10Gb/s, although most ready-made OM3 cables stop at 200m.

The whole point of this tiny Mikrotik switch is to link four devices together at 10Gb/s using SFP+, with an optional fifth device running at 1Gb/s on RJ45 Ethernet. This could be used as a monitor port, a PoE port, or as I use it, a 1Gb/s output to another switch for internet on computers lacking 10G NICs.

I connect one of the four SFP+ ports on the Mikrotik via a 30m fibre link to the computer room upstairs, where my optical 'fibre-to-the-premises' broadband router is situated.

The output from my broadband router upstairs is standard 1G Ethernet. I pay for the slowest 100Mbit/s broadband option, because I'm too impecunious to afford $100 per month for 1,000Mb/s broadband.
https://www.broadbandsearch.net/definitions/fiber-to-the-premise

I run a couple of DAC cables from my Mikrotik (downstairs) to two HP servers, which at nearly 50kg each, are too heavy to drag up a flight of stairs to the computer room (and it saves the floor from an extra 100kg weight). The remaining SFP+ output is shared between various other machines.

I have a 10Gb 10-port Netgear switch upstairs, which links to the Mikrotik downstairs using a 30m OM3 fibre optic cable with SFP+ transceivers at either end.

A few examples of kit.

This is a typical DAC cable, 2m long. You can get longer or shorter DACs, depending on where you position the Mikrotik switch. Make sure the DACs are rated at 10G, not 1G.
https://www.amazon.com/10G-SFP-DAC-Cable-SFP-H10GB-CU2M/dp/B00U8BL09Q

Being Copper wire based, DACs work over much shorter distances than fibre, so they're typically used as short (0.5m) patch leads in 19" equipment racks. I buy 2m (6ft) and 3m (10ft) DACs, but I doubt you'll find many DACs over 5m (16ft). At this length most people use fibre.


This is a typical OM3 LC-LC Fibre Optic cable, available in many different lengths up to 200m.
https://www.amazon.com/FLYPROFiber-Fiber-Patch-Length-Options/dp/B08974BY91

Below are a couple of 10G LC Transceivers. It's important to buy 10G, not 1G transceivers, otherwise you won't get 10Gb/s over the link. 10G transceivers can be more expensive than 1G.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10GBASE-LR-Transceiver-Supermicro/dp/B07TTKHG6T

I buy brand new OM3 cables, but second-hand DACs and SFP+ transceivers. Take care not to bend OM3. It doesn't take kindly to sharp right angle bends.

System Connection

After plugging each end of the OM3 fibre into a transceiver, you push the transceivers into the SFP+ ports on the Mikrotik switch and the Solarflare 5122 NICs in your desktop computers.

The whole point of the exercise is to connect two (or more) computers together at 10Gb/s, to achieve data transfers up to 10x the speed of 1G Ethernet.

The slowest drive in the chain determines the maximum speed across the link. Hence on my 8-disk RAID-Z2 servers, that's around 140MB/s (Mega bytes/s), not much faster than Gigabit. Between two computers containing NVMe drives, I see over 600MB/s at times. Fast enough for my needs.

2.5G and 5G Ethernet chipsets are becoming more common, but it's rare to find 10G Ethernet built into motherboards intended for home use. The price of 10G Ethernet cards has come down, but I paid roughly $125 each for four Asus XG-C100C cards back in 2018. The 10-port Netgear switch (8 x 10G RJ45, 2 x 10G SFP+) was another $500.

I changed from relatively expensive 10G Ethernet to cheaper 10G optical fibre in 2020, because high quality ex-server SFP+ NICs, transceivers and DACs were available on the second hand market. Affordable multi-port 10G server switches tend to be power hungry, which is why I bought the Mikrotik. I don't need 12 or 24 SFP+ ports on a Cisco managed switch.

If you ever feel like going faster, there's 25G, 40G and 100G networking over OM4/OM5 fibre.
https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/cheap-40gbe-at-home-too-good-to-be-true.26143/

 

[johnnieso]

You're OK up this point, but you won't be able to use RJ45 cables to connect the Mikrotik switch to your computers, because you've already used the one and only RJ45 Ethernet port on the Mikrotik.

The other four ports on the Mikrotik are all SFP+ 10Gigabit, for Direct Attached Copper cable or Fibre Optic transceivers and OM3 cable. OM3 might work at up to 300m (1,000ft) at 10Gb/s, although most ready-made OM3 cables stop at 200m.

The whole point of this tiny Mikrotik switch is to link four devices together at 10Gb/s using SFP+, with an optional fifth device running at 1Gb/s on RJ45 Ethernet. This could be used as a monitor port, a PoE port, or as I use it, a 1Gb/s output to another switch for internet on computers lacking 10G NICs.

I connect one of the four SFP+ ports on the Mikrotik via a 30m fibre link to the computer room upstairs, where my optical 'fibre-to-the-premises' broadband router is situated.

The output from my broadband router upstairs is standard 1G Ethernet. I pay for the slowest 100Mbit/s broadband option, because I'm too impecunious to afford $100 per month for 1,000Mb/s broadband.
https://www.broadbandsearch.net/definitions/fiber-to-the-premise

I run a couple of DAC cables from my Mikrotik (downstairs) to two HP servers, which at nearly 50kg each, are too heavy to drag up a flight of stairs to the computer room (and it saves the floor from an extra 100kg weight). The remaining SFP+ output is shared between various other machines.

I have a 10Gb 10-port Netgear switch upstairs, which links to the Mikrotik downstairs using a 30m OM3 fibre optic cable with SFP+ transceivers at either end.

A few examples of kit.

This is a typical DAC cable, 2m long. You can get longer or shorter DACs, depending on where you position the Mikrotik switch. Make sure the DACs are rated at 10G, not 1G.
https://www.amazon.com/10G-SFP-DAC-Cable-SFP-H10GB-CU2M/dp/B00U8BL09Q

Being Copper wire based, DACs work over much shorter distances than fibre, so they're typically used as short (0.5m) patch leads in 19" equipment racks. I buy 2m (6ft) and 3m (10ft) DACs, but I doubt you'll find many DACs over 5m (16ft). At this length most people use fibre.


This is a typical OM3 LC-LC Fibre Optic cable, available in many different lengths up to 200m.
https://www.amazon.com/FLYPROFiber-Fiber-Patch-Length-Options/dp/B08974BY91

Below are a couple of 10G LC Transceivers. It's important to buy 10G, not 1G transceivers, otherwise you won't get 10Gb/s over the link. 10G transceivers can be more expensive than 1G.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10GBASE-LR-Transceiver-Supermicro/dp/B07TTKHG6T

I buy brand new OM3 cables, but second-hand DACs and SFP+ transceivers. Take care not to bend OM3. It doesn't take kindly to sharp right angle bends.

System Connection

After plugging each end of the OM3 fibre into a transceiver, you push the transceivers into the SFP+ ports on the Mikrotik switch and the Solarflare 5122 NICs in your desktop computers.

The whole point of the exercise is to connect two (or more) computers together at 10Gb/s, to achieve data transfers up to 10x the speed of 1G Ethernet.

The slowest drive in the chain determines the maximum speed across the link. Hence on my 8-disk RAID-Z2 servers, that's around 140MB/s (Mega bytes/s), not much faster than Gigabit. Between two computers containing NVMe drives, I see over 600MB/s at times. Fast enough for my needs.

2.5G and 5G Ethernet chipsets are becoming more common, but it's rare to find 10G Ethernet built into motherboards intended for home use. The price of 10G Ethernet cards has come down, but I paid roughly $125 each for four Asus XG-C100C cards back in 2018. The 10-port Netgear switch (8 x 10G RJ45, 2 x 10G SFP+) was another $500.

I changed from relatively expensive 10G Ethernet to cheaper 10G optical fibre in 2020, because high quality ex-server SFP+ NICs, transceivers and DACs were available on the second hand market. Affordable multi-port 10G server switches tend to be power hungry, which is why I bought the Mikrotik. I don't need 12 or 24 SFP+ ports on a Cisco managed switch.

If you ever feel like going faster, there's 25G, 40G and 100G networking over OM4/OM5 fibre.
https://forums.servethehome.com/index.php?threads/cheap-40gbe-at-home-too-good-to-be-true.26143/

Hmm... I checked out your links about the DACs & Optical fibers.... seems even if I wanna keep them my apartment physically can't. Because the coax from the wall is strictly set at my bedroom & my apartment wont allow me to change it, Im not allow to make holes or re-align cable/electrical lines either. So Im stuck with the wall outlet from bedroom which where my modem & router are, then the one & only RJ45 (50 meter) cable connecting my router to the switch (which Im planning to put in my study room next to bedroom thru a short hallway, but I had to get those cord hiders along the wall side floor and wrapped around doors & hinges trying to hide it, and I only got that one long RJ45 cable from bedroom to study room, so that cable will have to be the one connecting router to switch. Now, even with that its still can do with your suggested setup with the SPF cables & Mikrotik switch, but then that means I'll need to get a 2nd SFP port NIC for my main PC in study room, which the original plan for that PC was to make it a media center later in near future. So I wont be investing much on that one. Because if Im gonna use your suggested setup, it'll be a waste if I dont setup dual ports cables with it for cable security & redundancy? Plus I dont have a server rack, nor planning in near future for one, so Im not so interest in making a dedicated "space" for that, which allows me to change rooms or swap gfear locations in future, or just in case I need to move out of this apartment in future. That's why I have to stick with the basic RJ45's for now until I have a more settled place for me to setup a dedicated spot for a "server-ish" spot for it to use your SFP cables, which I look up online, seems SFP types or even the fiber optics cant really be bend or stress, so that right out the gate it wont work for my setup since if I have to connect my router to study room from bedroom, without a straight thru holes between walls of both rooms, there's no way i connect a long enough SPF/fiber cables thru without bending them. As much as I appreciated your suggested setup with is quite cheap & fast, I cannot use it at the meantime. So for now, I cancel the order for Mikrotik switch, & get a Intel X550T2for my NAS for now.

 

[Misgar]

After struggling to read through the "wall of text" (no paragraphs makes reading difficult for me) a few points about fibre if you ever decide to use it in the future.

You can't bend fibre through a sharp right angle, but it's flexible enough to go round gentle curves with a suprisingly small radius of just a few inches. I'd be scared to drag fibre through trunking, especially this involved sharp right angle bends in a wall-mounted patress. I'm sure professional cable installers have this covered and know what they're doing. They probably blow the fibre through with compressed air, then terminate the ends.

I couldn't be bothered to rip up the floorboards or drill holes in the ceiling to hide the fibre connection from the computer room upstairs to the servers/desktops downstairs. I just tucked the fibre up against the wall, under the door, round a couple of corners and down the side of the stairs, taped to the skirting board. From the hallway downstairs, the fibre is routed under the kitchen door, behind the fridge freezers and into the room with the servers. There's no risk of tripping over the fibre but I take care when vacuuming carpets.

it'll be a waste if I dont setup dual ports cables with it for cable security & redundancy?

I don't use both ports on my dual port SFP+ NICs. They were just cheaper at the time than single port NICs. I only use one SFP+ input out of two and don't worry about redundancy. I can always use the Ethernet cables which run alongside the fibre. Installing another 30m fibre would take minutes.

I spend more time transferring files between standard desktops over the 10G LAN, rather than to/from the servers, which don't get switched on daily. My servers have 4 x 1G Ethernet and 2 x 10G fibre inputs on the back panels. I use whatever port seems appropriate,

Upstairs I'm using 10G Ethernet between four desktops via a Netgear 10G switch. Downstairs I'm using 10G fibre on multiple systems via the Mikrotik. The two floors are connected via 2 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 10G fibre. Nothing fancy. It's not pretty or hidden but it works.

Best of luck with whatever you choose.

 

[johnnieso]

After struggling to read through the "wall of text" (no paragraphs makes reading difficult for me) a few points about fibre if you ever decide to use it in the future.

You can't bend fibre through a sharp right angle, but it's flexible enough to go round gentle curves with a suprisingly small radius of just a few inches. I'd be scared to drag fibre through trunking, especially this involved sharp right angle bends in a wall-mounted patress. I'm sure professional cable installers have this covered and know what they're doing. They probably blow the fibre through with compressed air, then terminate the ends.

I couldn't be bothered to rip up the floorboards or drill holes in the ceiling to hide the fibre connection from the computer room upstairs to the servers/desktops downstairs. I just tucked the fibre up against the wall, under the door, round a couple of corners and down the side of the stairs, taped to the skirting board. From the hallway downstairs, the fibre is routed under the kitchen door, behind the fridge freezers and into the room with the servers. There's no risk of tripping over the fibre but I take care when vacuuming carpets.


I don't use both ports on my dual port SFP+ NICs. They were just cheaper at the time than single port NICs. I only use one SFP+ input out of two and don't worry about redundancy. I can always use the Ethernet cables which run alongside the fibre. Installing another 30m fibre would take minutes.

I spend more time transferring files between standard desktops over the 10G LAN, rather than to/from the servers, which don't get switched on daily. My servers have 4 x 1G Ethernet and 2 x 10G fibre inputs on the back panels. I use whatever port seems appropriate,

Upstairs I'm using 10G Ethernet between four desktops via a Netgear 10G switch. Downstairs I'm using 10G fibre on multiple systems via the Mikrotik. The two floors are connected via 2 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 10G fibre. Nothing fancy. It's not pretty or hidden but it works.

Best of luck with whatever you choose.

Hahaha... my bad with no paragraphs.
Anyways, I understood what u mean, I just choose an option that allows me work with temporarily & cheapest until I have a better dedicated space for it. But I learned a lot from your suggestions & will keep that in mind once I've transition from this setup to my next setup., because I'm very interested in trying out the SFP's as well since they offers lower power consumption with even faster speed, and I'm pretty sure in future once I got used to the home server/NAS environment, chances are I will be upgrading my setup in future. So definitely thanks for the tips, much appreciated!