Question Just a quick theoretical question about the case/cpu fans ?

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That's looks pretty bitchin Case brother!
Yes, it is. :) I also like the Linus'es review he made about the PC case (which i watched several times before buying my PC case);

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLOt8h8-kNY


Of course, i was thinking to get Corsair 780T as well,
specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/pc-...-series-780t-full-tower-pc-case-cc-9011063-ww

Linus'es reivew:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIyPeXUfFKE


And also Phanteks Ethoo Pro,
specs: https://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro.html

But out of the three, 760T appealed to me the most. Phanteks Ethoo Pro looks a bit too conventional, so i wanted something with a bit more "flare". ✨ Corsair 780T, while having the flare, looked too "curvy" for my taste. And it also had inferior features compared to 760T. So, ended up with 760T and i'm very pleased with it. 😊

So I guess getting rid of the hdds and putting the intake fan on the bottom of the caser would be a better idea I guess. But unfortunately due to the routing of the cables, I wouldn't able to put the fan on the bottom since I routed the pcie, mobo, and the cpu cables from the PSU, since going sideways, seems to put a lot of strain on those power cables.
Yeah, when cables won't reach, no point forcing it.
 
Yes, it is. :) I also like the Linus'es review he made about the PC case (which i watched several times before buying my PC case);

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLOt8h8-kNY


Of course, i was thinking to get Corsair 780T as well,
specs: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/pc-...-series-780t-full-tower-pc-case-cc-9011063-ww

Linus'es reivew:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JIyPeXUfFKE


And also Phanteks Ethoo Pro,
specs: https://www.phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro.html

But out of the three, 760T appealed to me the most. Phanteks Ethoo Pro looks a bit too conventional, so i wanted something with a bit more "flare". ✨ Corsair 780T, while having the flare, looked too "curvy" for my taste. And it also had inferior features compared to 760T. So, ended up with 760T and i'm very pleased with it. 😊


Yeah, when cables won't reach, no point forcing it.
And by any chance is there a difference between medium and full tower? I mean, from what I could understood full tower is usually pretty tall, what about midi then, what does that mean?😄
 
And by any chance is there a difference between medium and full tower? I mean, from what I could understood full tower is usually pretty tall, what about midi then, what does that mean?😄
It's size difference, for the most part.

From smallest to bigger;
* mini-ITX box/tower (e.g Corsair 2000D)
* micro-ATX tower (e.g Corsair Air 240)
* midi-tower ATX (e.g Chieftec DF-02B-U3 (Giga Series))
* mid-tower ATX (e.g Corsair 450D)
* full-tower ATX (e.g Corsair 760T)
* super-tower ATX (e.g Corsair 900D)

Most common is mid-tower ATX. Midi-tower ATX is a bit smaller than mid-tower ATX.
Or course, there are more variations as well, like HTPC case, which usually lays flat on it's size and is usually compatible only with mini-ITX MoBo.

Though, there is no set standard at which dimensions the case must have, to classify to specific group. But usually it is to do with MoBo size it supports. E.g;
* if only mini-ITX MoBo - case is considered as mini-ITX tower. But it can also be HTPC case.
* if mini-ITX and micro-ATX MoBo - case is considered as micro-ATX tower.
* if mini-ITX, micro-ATX and ATX MoBo - case is usually considered as mid-tower ATX. But it can also be midi-tower ATX.
* if mini-ITX, micro-ATX, ATX and eATX (including XL ATX, SSI CEB and SSI EEB) MoBo - case is usually considered full-tower ATX. But it can also be super-tower ATX.
 
It's size difference, for the most part.

From smallest to bigger;
* mini-ITX box/tower (e.g Corsair 2000D)
* micro-ATX tower (e.g Corsair Air 240)
* midi-tower ATX (e.g Chieftec DF-02B-U3 (Giga Series))
* mid-tower ATX (e.g Corsair 450D)
* full-tower ATX (e.g Corsair 760T)
* super-tower ATX (e.g Corsair 900D)

Most common is mid-tower ATX. Midi-tower ATX is a bit smaller than mid-tower ATX.
Or course, there are more variations as well, like HTPC case, which usually lays flat on it's size and is usually compatible only with mini-ITX MoBo.

Though, there is no set standard at which dimensions the case must have, to classify to specific group. But usually it is to do with MoBo size it supports. E.g;
* if only mini-ITX MoBo - case is considered as mini-ITX tower. But it can also be HTPC case.
* if mini-ITX and micro-ATX MoBo - case is considered as micro-ATX tower.
* if mini-ITX, micro-ATX and ATX MoBo - case is usually considered as mid-tower ATX. But it can also be midi-tower ATX.
* if mini-ITX, micro-ATX, ATX and eATX (including XL ATX, SSI CEB and SSI EEB) MoBo - case is usually considered full-tower ATX. But it can also be super-tower ATX.
Oh and I always thought that I bought the midi tower 😀 It's full if it's supports e-atx
 
Oh and I always thought that I bought the midi tower 😀 It's full if it's supports e-atx
Be Quiet! has strange classification for their PC cases. Dark Base 900/901 are called as full-tower while ALL the rest are called midi-tower,
case lineup: https://www.bequiet.com/en/case

Silent Base 802 is still, in my opinion, full-tower, since it is able to support eATX MoBos and it is 61.5 cm in height. Your PC case is actually ~5 cm taller than my Corsair 760T, because mine is 56.8 cm in height. 🙄

Tower cases are often categorized as mini-tower, midi-tower, mid-tower, or full-tower. The terms are subjective and inconsistently defined by different manufacturers.
* Full-tower cases, typically 51 cm or more in height, are designed for maximum scalability.
* Mid-tower cases, usually between 41 cm and 51 cm in height, are the most common form factor of personal computer towers.
* The marketing term midi-tower sometimes refers to cases smaller than a mid-tower but still larger than a mini-tower (see below), typically with two to three external bays. Other times the term may be synonymous with mid-tower.
* Mini-tower cases, between 30 cm and 41 cm in height, slot between the Mini-ITX specification for small-form-factor PCs and the archetypal mid-tower.
source, wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_tower#Subclasses
 
Be Quiet! has strange classification for their PC cases. Dark Base 900/901 are called as full-tower while ALL the rest are called midi-tower,
case lineup: https://www.bequiet.com/en/case

Silent Base 802 is still, in my opinion, full-tower, since it is able to support eATX MoBos and it is 61.5 cm in height. Your PC case is actually ~5 cm taller than my Corsair 760T, because mine is 56.8 cm in height. 🙄


source, wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_tower#Subclasses
Oh, I see then, ya know I've always wondered, did any of the pc cases induce/decrease chances of condensation in your components, say, you left your windows partially-open during the cold winter months, or just in general, opening the windows for longer periods of time often while the pc is working/sleeping ?
 
I've always wondered, did any of the pc cases induce/decrease chances of condensation in your components, say, you left your windows partially-open during the cold winter months, or just in general, opening the windows for longer periods of time often while the pc is working/sleeping ?
It depends on air humidity if anything.

For example, in tropical parts of the world, the humidity is high all year round. Or when you live next to sea. Then, there is more wear on the hardware and after some years, you can actually see rust forming on PCB (GPU/MoBo).

Winter weather, for the most part, doesn't have much humidity outside. Sure, it's cold outside but humidity levels are usually low. Now, if it would be summer time with rainfall, then humidity would be higher.

Then, there's also humidity levels in your home. That depends on the house you live in and ventilation system it has. But for the most part, air inside homes is usually low humidity. If the inside air humidity drops way low, then you could start having breathing problems or your eyes could start hurting (since dry air dries out your eyeballs, especially if you don't blink often when watching PC monitor for days end).

For condensation to form, there needs to be extremely high humidity.
Prime example would be car and car windows fogging up. This usually happens when there is high temperature difference between outside of the car and inside of the car + the humidity inside the car is higher than outside.
To avoid car windows to fog up, in summer time, you cold open car window a bit, to normalize temps between outside and inside. But during winter time, this isn't an option since idea is to get the inside of the car warm and comfortable. But you can then activate car AC (if your car has it), since besides heating up air inside the car, AC also collects humidity from inside the car (which it then drops under the car).

Back to your initial question about humidity inside the PC.
Unless PC has sat inside humid conditions (~80% humidity) for too long and you then turn on PC, with high heat output (e.g start 3D render at instant), there are no other possible ways to collect condensation inside the PC.
Running your PC at winter time with window open won't generate any condensation since air humidity would be low. If anything, outside cold air helps to better cool your PC components.

But if you are worried about condensation, you can buy silica gel packs. Usually some clothes come with small silica gel packs packed inside them, but buying bigger silica gel sack would be better.
Just the other day i was browsing my local car parts store and saw them to offer several sized silica gel sacks (320g, 500g, 1kg) to be used inside the car (or anywhere where there is high humidity). I did think getting one, since during winter times, my car windows sometimes fog up. Some of those sacks also had indicator on them, showing when they are "full" of moisture, so that i can take the sack and put it into dry place (e.g on top of radiator or inside microwave) to dry out, after which, i can put it back inside the car to collect moisture again. So, quite practical. :)

This is the very one i did consider buying,
amazon: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Relaxdays-Set-car-defogger-sponge/dp/B0827MWFLX
And considered this one too, with more practicality by having velcro straps to hold it in place, but no "full" indicator,
amazon: https://www.amazon.de/ProPlus-240214-Luftentfeuchter-Autoentfeuchter-wiederverwendbar/dp/B003F5RKHI

But since car windows fogging up isn't that much of an issue for me, i didn't buy it. Maybe in future, i need to think about it. 🤔
As of you, you could put the silica gel pack/sack inside your PC, if you're that worried about condensation.

Oh, probably best way to tell if air inside the PC is dry or not, is to look if any fine dust settles on your components. Since air must be dry for fine dust to settle down. If air has high humidity, you'd see dust bunnies (balls of dust), rather than fine dust blanketing the surface evenly.
 
It depends on air humidity if anything.

For example, in tropical parts of the world, the humidity is high all year round. Or when you live next to sea. Then, there is more wear on the hardware and after some years, you can actually see rust forming on PCB (GPU/MoBo).

Winter weather, for the most part, doesn't have much humidity outside. Sure, it's cold outside but humidity levels are usually low. Now, if it would be summer time with rainfall, then humidity would be higher.

Then, there's also humidity levels in your home. That depends on the house you live in and ventilation system it has. But for the most part, air inside homes is usually low humidity. If the inside air humidity drops way low, then you could start having breathing problems or your eyes could start hurting (since dry air dries out your eyeballs, especially if you don't blink often when watching PC monitor for days end).

For condensation to form, there needs to be extremely high humidity.
Prime example would be car and car windows fogging up. This usually happens when there is high temperature difference between outside of the car and inside of the car + the humidity inside the car is higher than outside.
To avoid car windows to fog up, in summer time, you cold open car window a bit, to normalize temps between outside and inside. But during winter time, this isn't an option since idea is to get the inside of the car warm and comfortable. But you can then activate car AC (if your car has it), since besides heating up air inside the car, AC also collects humidity from inside the car (which it then drops under the car).

Back to your initial question about humidity inside the PC.
Unless PC has sat inside humid conditions (~80% humidity) for too long and you then turn on PC, with high heat output (e.g start 3D render at instant), there are no other possible ways to collect condensation inside the PC.
Running your PC at winter time with window open won't generate any condensation since air humidity would be low. If anything, outside cold air helps to better cool your PC components.

But if you are worried about condensation, you can buy silica gel packs. Usually some clothes come with small silica gel packs packed inside them, but buying bigger silica gel sack would be better.
Just the other day i was browsing my local car parts store and saw them to offer several sized silica gel sacks (320g, 500g, 1kg) to be used inside the car (or anywhere where there is high humidity). I did think getting one, since during winter times, my car windows sometimes fog up. Some of those sacks also had indicator on them, showing when they are "full" of moisture, so that i can take the sack and put it into dry place (e.g on top of radiator or inside microwave) to dry out, after which, i can put it back inside the car to collect moisture again. So, quite practical. :)

This is the very one i did consider buying,
amazon: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Relaxdays-Set-car-defogger-sponge/dp/B0827MWFLX
And considered this one too, with more practicality by having velcro straps to hold it in place, but no "full" indicator,
amazon: https://www.amazon.de/ProPlus-240214-Luftentfeuchter-Autoentfeuchter-wiederverwendbar/dp/B003F5RKHI

But since car windows fogging up isn't that much of an issue for me, i didn't buy it. Maybe in future, i need to think about it. 🤔
As of you, you could put the silica gel pack/sack inside your PC, if you're that worried about condensation.

Oh, probably best way to tell if air inside the PC is dry or not, is to look if any fine dust settles on your components. Since air must be dry for fine dust to settle down. If air has high humidity, you'd see dust bunnies (balls of dust), rather than fine dust blanketing the surface evenly.
Thank you kindly for your answer bud. This issue baffled me for ages, as I could say that there is no way in living hell it could happen, but there is also conditions and science for it, like hot air meets the cold air, which causes the condensation. Mainly the pc is sleeping, so am I, in my bedroom at night, with an opened window, and, with ventilation/recuperation working the same time, yet for the record, I did checked of how much did the temps drop, gpu for example, if usual temp is 30-40C~ during booting up, then, with the window opened, it can get as low as 19C~, which from I could understand that, as long as the components are not being exposed to freezing temperatures, there is no need for an alarm to go off, and I don't know if it matters that much, but, keeping your desktop above ground, like on the drawer or something, matters in any scenario based on your experience?
 
it can get as low as 19C~
Unless you have 18C or lower temp in your room, this ~19C for GPU isn't realistic.

Almost all PC cooling methods use ambient air to cool the components, thus, none of the components can ever be at lower temperature than what ambient temperature is. Only way to achieve lower temps than ambient, is to use cryogenic fluids (e.g LN2 or He).

Mainly the pc is sleeping
I'm one of those who rarely uses Sleep mode on PC. Usually when i'm home but AFK, i have it running with all my stuff open. But when i leave the home or go to sleep, i make full shut down with power off. And since i have my OS on NVMe PCI-E 3.0 SSD, the cold boot up doesn't take long, minute or so.

While i haven't researched it in-depth, my reasoning not to use sleep mode is to extend the lifespan of my PC components. Since when you put your PC to sleep, it still is powered on, albeit it takes little power to maintain the sleep. Still, PSU is on at all times and so is the electrical current inside the MoBo/CPU/GPU.

and I don't know if it matters that much, but, keeping your desktop above ground, like on the drawer or something, matters in any scenario based on your experience?
First off, don't put the PC itself into any drawer/cupboard or the like, since that severely restricts PC's airflow and it's essentially you creating hotbox conditions for PC.

As of PC's elevation from the ground, it does have beneficial application, namely dust intake.

Worst place where to put the PC is on the floor, especially on the carpet. Since dust settles on the ground and a lot of it will be sucked into PC as well. If you were to elevate the PC as little as 12 cm off the ground, you can reduce dust intake up to 80%.

With this, best place where to put your PC, is onto your desk, next to your monitor.
E.g like so:

Left: Skylake build (my current PC)
Middle: Haswell build (missus'es PC)
Right: AMD build (my old main PC, also it was temporarily set up on the dining table)

ZxrwPrW.jpg

And if you have transparent side panel PC case (you don't, but i do), you could also easily monitor dust buildup inside the PC, to know when it is time to clean the innards from the dust. Not to mention the eyecandy it offers. :) (That is, if you'd have something nice to look at.)
 
Unless you have 18C or lower temp in your room, this ~19C for GPU isn't realistic.

Almost all PC cooling methods use ambient air to cool the components, thus, none of the components can ever be at lower temperature than what ambient temperature is. Only way to achieve lower temps than ambient, is to use cryogenic fluids (e.g LN2 or He).


I'm one of those who rarely uses Sleep mode on PC. Usually when i'm home but AFK, i have it running with all my stuff open. But when i leave the home or go to sleep, i make full shut down with power off. And since i have my OS on NVMe PCI-E 3.0 SSD, the cold boot up doesn't take long, minute or so.

While i haven't researched it in-depth, my reasoning not to use sleep mode is to extend the lifespan of my PC components. Since when you put your PC to sleep, it still is powered on, albeit it takes little power to maintain the sleep. Still, PSU is on at all times and so is the electrical current inside the MoBo/CPU/GPU.


First off, don't put the PC itself into any drawer/cupboard or the like, since that severely restricts PC's airflow and it's essentially you creating hotbox conditions for PC.

As of PC's elevation from the ground, it does have beneficial application, namely dust intake.

Worst place where to put the PC is on the floor, especially on the carpet. Since dust settles on the ground and a lot of it will be sucked into PC as well. If you were to elevate the PC as little as 12 cm off the ground, you can reduce dust intake up to 80%.

With this, best place where to put your PC, is onto your desk, next to your monitor.
E.g like so:

Left: Skylake build (my current PC)
Middle: Haswell build (missus'es PC)
Right: AMD build (my old main PC, also it was temporarily set up on the dining table)

ZxrwPrW.jpg

And if you have transparent side panel PC case (you don't, but i do), you could also easily monitor dust buildup inside the PC, to know when it is time to clean the innards from the dust. Not to mention the eyecandy it offers. :) (That is, if you'd have something nice to look at.)
Yeah the gpu temp can be as low as 19C~ or something like that, when I wake up to turn it on, same with hdd and an ssd can be somewhere around 15C or something, ambient room temp, is usually around 23C~, so I guess, opening a windows lowers it a bit, like 10C degrees or something. As for the restriction of the air flow, no no, not like that 😀, it just sits on top of the drawer. But I could have swear, that I heard, that, keeping electronics on the ground, can be very harmful, not just because of the dust, but rather the problems with humidity and condensation, like keeping it on the cold garage floor.
 
But I could have swear, that I heard, that, keeping electronics on the ground, can be very harmful, not just because of the dust, but rather the problems with humidity and condensation, like keeping it on the cold garage floor.
Well, air close to ground is usually colder and in turn, more humid, than air in the middle of the room. While air at the ceiling is most warm and thus driest. But the changes in humidity within the ~2.5m vertical space (that's how high rooms usually are), are so small that i don't think it being an issue. Unless you have severe temperature differences within that vertical space.

as long as the components are not being exposed to freezing temperatures, there is no need for an alarm to go off
CPU and GPU can actually survive freezing temps. Since how else record breaking with LN2 is achieved.

For example, here are world class scores for RTX 4090 benchmark. Top 5 positions have the GPU at -35C,
link: https://benchmark.unigine.com/leaderboards/superposition/1.x/1080p-extreme/single-gpu/page-1

What are the exact negative temps hardware can sustain - i don't know. It differs between different CPUs and GPUs. The one who could tell it the best, would be Vince "Kingpin" Lucido since he is one of the best CPU/GPU OC gurus, having multiple world records under his name. He also works as EVGA Overclock Engineer and designed many EVGA GPUs and MoBos to achieve highest clocks.

Video, if interested:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr3lsU718Lg


PSUs, in the other hand, usually have min operating temperature 0C.
 
Well, air close to ground is usually colder and in turn, more humid, than air in the middle of the room. While air at the ceiling is most warm and thus driest. But the changes in humidity within the ~2.5m vertical space (that's how high rooms usually are), are so small that i don't think it being an issue. Unless you have severe temperature differences within that vertical space.


CPU and GPU can actually survive freezing temps. Since how else record breaking with LN2 is achieved.

For example, here are world class scores for RTX 4090 benchmark. Top 5 positions have the GPU at -35C,
link: https://benchmark.unigine.com/leaderboards/superposition/1.x/1080p-extreme/single-gpu/page-1

What are the exact negative temps hardware can sustain - i don't know. It differs between different CPUs and GPUs. The one who could tell it the best, would be Vince "Kingpin" Lucido since he is one of the best CPU/GPU OC gurus, having multiple world records under his name. He also works as EVGA Overclock Engineer and designed many EVGA GPUs and MoBos to achieve highest clocks.

Video, if interested:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr3lsU718Lg


PSUs, in the other hand, usually have min operating temperature 0C.
Yeah,psu can go from 0C, as it says on the box I meann, but have they tested the gpu while it was working on some sort a task or while computer being turned off? Basically, I've been having so many weird problems with the rig, and I've changed every single component, except for the mobo, and it still gives me the heebie jeebies when something out of nowhere happens, so I just literally started to think that It might be due to air conditions in the house, it just literally have sent me into the freaking paranoia on why its happening in the first place, even though you are being thorough as an IRS😄 I am even thinking of getting new the mobo to shed some light on it, otherwise, I dont know, all components brake down at the same time I suppose?😄I am Really sorry for being the nerd.
 
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Basically, I've been having so many weird problems with the rig, and I've changed every single component, except for the mobo, and it still gives me the heebie jeebies when something out of nowhere happens
Issues? 🤔
Your topic started out with questions about fan connections. So, what other issues are you talking about?

all components brake down at the same time I suppose?😄
Low/crap quality PSU is very well capable in doing that. Poor PSUs often feed out of spec voltages to hardware, degrading and damaging them over time, until hardware fails.

In similar example: if you eat contaminated food, you won't drop dead on an instant. Instead you get food poisoning, resulting in stomach aches and vomiting. Eat contaminated food on daily basis and you'll end up 6 feet under. Essentially the same is with your hardware, which has been fed the "bad" power by your crap quality AeroCool PSU.

Replacing the PSU with good quality unit won't magically fix the hardware damage done by previous low/crap quality PSU. But at least no more additional damage would be dealt for the hardware. And new hardware you'd end up buying (to replace damaged hardware), won't be damaged with good quality PSU either.
 
Issues? 🤔
Your topic started out with questions about fan connections. So, what other issues are you talking about?


Low/crap quality PSU is very well capable in doing that. Poor PSUs often feed out of spec voltages to hardware, degrading and damaging them over time, until hardware fails.

In similar example: if you eat contaminated food, you won't drop dead on an instant. Instead you get food poisoning, resulting in stomach aches and vomiting. Eat contaminated food on daily basis and you'll end up 6 feet under. Essentially the same is with your hardware, which has been fed the "bad" power by your crap quality AeroCool PSU.

Replacing the PSU with good quality unit won't magically fix the hardware damage done by previous low/crap quality PSU. But at least no more additional damage would be dealt for the hardware. And new hardware you'd end up buying (to replace damaged hardware), won't be damaged with good quality PSU either.
Nah, it all started with the original rig, that had rtx 3060, 5600x, 3200mhz 16GB ram, samsung evo 500gb, aero cool 750 w, msi b550m pro vdh, that would just freeze up occassionally, and the only way was to unfreeze it, was, to restart it, cause no other command would work. So eventually, I've tested every single component and none of them showed any signs of wear or degradation, since it will only freeze while doing just the simpliest stuff, not even 4k gaming, which was really weird. So, somehow, I've narrowed it to the ram, as I've tried different sticks and that problem still remained, til, I've changed it to 3600mHz, nothing special right? That's right, it wasn't special, except for support of B550/X570 chipset, which thankfully solved the problem like 99% of the time, however, it turned out that, AMD cpus are way more sensitive with the ram that you'd think "will work", since the previous ram that I had, had support for an intel chipset, and not for the amd. By the way the, previous Intel rig had VS650 in it, and from reading it, it was just as bad as the Aerocool units😄
Hell I've been using even an older rig with a weird PSU name called"Energizer or Energy" or something in that meaning, and it just died not too long ago, like it was working for around 10 years or so~😄.
You are absolutely correct, I should have mentioned previous issues crom the beginning, and I did on various of forums, including the tom's hardware, but so far, I had to find the solution to the previous problems on my own, since there was no response.

That's the GPU I've got


And that's how it looks like from inside

View: https://imgur.com/a/dSqTE43


Ya think it's a mess ?
 
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So, somehow, I've narrowed it to the ram, as I've tried different sticks and that problem still remained, til, I've changed it to 3600mHz, nothing special right? That's right, it wasn't special, except for support of B550/X570 chipset, which thankfully solved the problem like 99% of the time, however, it turned out that, AMD cpus are way more sensitive with the ram that you'd think "will work", since the previous ram that I had, had support for an intel chipset, and not for the amd.
Nice to hear that you got your issues solved, for the most part.

Though, in tech community, the fact that Ryzen CPUs are capricious with RAM, is well known. It has been so since the Ryzen launched with 1000 series.

Back in the day, with AMD FX-series CPUs (in 2012), it used DDR3 RAM and there was 0 issues using any RAM either in Intel CPU build or AMD CPU build. AMD took it's sweet time (5 years) to eventually release another set of CPUs, known as Ryzen 1000-series. During that time, AMD also reworked how their new CPUs communicate with the RAM, among other things. Perhaps most notable is the frequency supported, which back in the DDR3 days, was identical to what Intel CPU supported. E.g: 1066 Mhz, 1333 Mhz, 1600 Mhz, 1866 Mhz. That's JEDEC standard. JEDEC is the one who releases DDR RAM revisions and sets in stone the RAM frequencies.

In the 5 years when AMD wasn't around, Intel released CPUs essentially every year. 2015 brought DDR4. With JEDEC standards of: 2133 Mhz, 2400 Mhz, 2666 Mhz and latest revisions of 3000 Mhz and 3200 Mhz. Intel played ball nicely and made their CPUs compatible with those JEDEC speeds (Note: JEDEC is completely different entity from Intel and the two has no affiliation.) But when AMD released their Ryzen 1000 series (in 2017), AMD basically said: "Nope, we are not playing ball with JEDEC.". And so, AMD developed their own RAM frequencies what their CPUs support. These are, for DDR4: 2133 Mhz, 2400 Mhz, 2667 Mhz, 2933 Mhz and 3200 Mhz.

Since Intel was around for all this time, all DDR4 RAM was manufactured by 2133/2400/2666/3000/3200 speeds. And using those (so called "Intel compatible") RAM sticks in AMD systems often caused memory stability errors, since one just couldn't run e.g 3000 Mhz rated RAM at 2933 Mhz. Or 2666 Mhz rated RAM at 2667 Mhz. With this, it took some time before "AMD compatible" RAM was manufactured. And even to this day, there's hard to tell if the RAM works fine in AMD build or not, since AMD Ryzen CPUs are capricious when it comes to RAM frequency and timings.

By the way the, previous Intel rig had VS650 in it
Corsair VS650? Orange label? That doorstop? :ouch:

but so far, I had to find the solution to the previous problems on my own, since there was no response.
In TH, there are FAR more people with problems than there are experts to help them. Due to this, several topics go unanswered. To lessen this issue in TH forums, i reply into topics that have 0 replies, just like your topic initially was. Sometimes, when call goes out, i'll join in the middle, to share my expertise.
 
Nice to hear that you got your issues solved, for the most part.

Though, in tech community, the fact that Ryzen CPUs are capricious with RAM, is well known. It has been so since the Ryzen launched with 1000 series.

Back in the day, with AMD FX-series CPUs (in 2012), it used DDR3 RAM and there was 0 issues using any RAM either in Intel CPU build or AMD CPU build. AMD took it's sweet time (5 years) to eventually release another set of CPUs, known as Ryzen 1000-series. During that time, AMD also reworked how their new CPUs communicate with the RAM, among other things. Perhaps most notable is the frequency supported, which back in the DDR3 days, was identical to what Intel CPU supported. E.g: 1066 Mhz, 1333 Mhz, 1600 Mhz, 1866 Mhz. That's JEDEC standard. JEDEC is the one who releases DDR RAM revisions and sets in stone the RAM frequencies.

In the 5 years when AMD wasn't around, Intel released CPUs essentially every year. 2015 brought DDR4. With JEDEC standards of: 2133 Mhz, 2400 Mhz, 2666 Mhz and latest revisions of 3000 Mhz and 3200 Mhz. Intel played ball nicely and made their CPUs compatible with those JEDEC speeds (Note: JEDEC is completely different entity from Intel and the two has no affiliation.) But when AMD released their Ryzen 1000 series (in 2017), AMD basically said: "Nope, we are not playing ball with JEDEC.". And so, AMD developed their own RAM frequencies what their CPUs support. These are, for DDR4: 2133 Mhz, 2400 Mhz, 2667 Mhz, 2933 Mhz and 3200 Mhz.

Since Intel was around for all this time, all DDR4 RAM was manufactured by 2133/2400/2666/3000/3200 speeds. And using those (so called "Intel compatible") RAM sticks in AMD systems often caused memory stability errors, since one just couldn't run e.g 3000 Mhz rated RAM at 2933 Mhz. Or 2666 Mhz rated RAM at 2667 Mhz. With this, it took some time before "AMD compatible" RAM was manufactured. And even to this day, there's hard to tell if the RAM works fine in AMD build or not, since AMD Ryzen CPUs are capricious when it comes to RAM frequency and timings.


Corsair VS650? Orange label? That doorstop? :ouch:


In TH, there are FAR more people with problems than there are experts to help them. Due to this, several topics go unanswered. To lessen this issue in TH forums, i reply into topics that have 0 replies, just like your topic initially was. Sometimes, when call goes out, i'll join in the middle, to share my expertise.
Yeah, it's okay, I totally understand that people like you can't possibly reply to everyone on the internet, we've all got a lot on your plates these day, but still, I think it's very noble to help people in any away when it's possible. I really appreciate your time in solving the issues I've been having.
 
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whats your opinion on GPU sag
GPU sag is very much a thing. For the very least, it is an eyesore, since your GPU isn't at level plain. At worst, it can break the PCI-E x16 slot wide open, ruining the slot completely.

To prevent PCI-E x16 slot to split open, some MoBo manufacturers have built a metal guard over it. E.g like the MSI MoBo i have;
1024.png

But the easiest fix is GPU bolster.
Here's MSI version of it,
specs: https://www.msi.com/Graphics-Card/Graphics-Card-Bolster/Specification

Did think to buy it, not because of actual need, but for eyecandy. :cheese: There are other GPU support brackets as well.

Which models usually require the bracket?
It isn't by model basis, but more about the GPU weight.

1 and 2 slot GPUs with 1-2 fans can survive without issues. 3 and 4 slot GPUs, especially 3 fan versions, might need additional support since the cooler on them is beefy and in turn - heavy. And that weight of GPU cooler is the reason why GPUs can sag.

Oh, GPU backplate is also one of those that help to keep the GPU rigid and lessen the sag. So, when your GPU doesn't have a backplate and is long (3 fan one), might want to look into GPU support.
 
GPU sag is very much a thing. For the very least, it is an eyesore, since your GPU isn't at level plain. At worst, it can break the PCI-E x16 slot wide open, ruining the slot completely.

To prevent PCI-E x16 slot to split open, some MoBo manufacturers have built a metal guard over it. E.g like the MSI MoBo i have;
1024.png

But the easiest fix is GPU bolster.
Here's MSI version of it,
specs: https://www.msi.com/Graphics-Card/Graphics-Card-Bolster/Specification

Did think to buy it, not because of actual need, but for eyecandy. :cheese: There are other GPU support brackets as well.


It isn't by model basis, but more about the GPU weight.

1 and 2 slot GPUs with 1-2 fans can survive without issues. 3 and 4 slot GPUs, especially 3 fan versions, might need additional support since the cooler on them is beefy and in turn - heavy. And that weight of GPU cooler is the reason why GPUs can sag.

Oh, GPU backplate is also one of those that help to keep the GPU rigid and lessen the sag. So, when your GPU doesn't have a backplate and is long (3 fan one), might want to look into GPU support.
Hmm, I thought that manufacturer of the card, usually add some kind of gpu support tool, if the gpu they ship is too damn heavy, lik , most 4080's and 4090's are already being shipped with those brackets. I've got this one:


https://uk.store.asus.com/rog-herculx-graphics-card-holder-204176029-90da0020-b09000.html

Have no idea how it will going to work
 
Hmm, I thought that manufacturer of the card, usually add some kind of gpu support tool, if the gpu they ship is too damn heavy, lik , most 4080's and 4090's are already being shipped with those brackets. I've got this one:
Well, it would be pointless to include the GPU support since it very much depends on the PC case people use.

For example, that GPU support that you linked wouldn't work in my PC case, since i don't have PSU shroud. And thus, i have easy 20+ cm from the bottom of my PC case to the GPU. While that GPU support can max reach 12.8cm. (The MSI GPU bolster i linked, would work in my PC case though.)
Or when someone uses mini-ITX PC case, that has maybe 1-2 cm from the bottom of PC case. Or when someone uses riser cable and mounts the GPU vertically. GPU support would be pointless.

Have no idea how it will going to work
Tutorial shows how to use it:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmeTV7cl29A
 
Well, it would be pointless to include the GPU support since it very much depends on the PC case people use.

For example, that GPU support that you linked wouldn't work in my PC case, since i don't have PSU shroud. And thus, i have easy 20+ cm from the bottom of my PC case to the GPU. While that GPU support can max reach 12.8cm. (The MSI GPU bolster i linked, would work in my PC case though.)
Or when someone uses mini-ITX PC case, that has maybe 1-2 cm from the bottom of PC case. Or when someone uses riser cable and mounts the GPU vertically. GPU support would be pointless.


Tutorial shows how to use it:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmeTV7cl29A
Hmmm, I guess, still I could have swear that gigabyte shipped with that tool, I think cases too sometimes shipped with those tools to support the gpu, though not all of the cases. Yeah, I got the idea on how to use that tool😄I just wonder if the actual design of the tool matters, for example, there are brackets that need to be screwed it under the gpu with a screw, and then there is something like "just put something underneath the gpu, like a book or something", which was a weird Idea at first, but I think u can use a pencil or a marker too😄
 
there are brackets that need to be screwed it under the gpu with a screw, and then there is something like "just put something underneath the gpu, like a book or something", which was a weird Idea at first, but I think u can use a pencil or a marker too😄
It doesn't matter what is used to support the GPU. I've seen even lego bricks used as a GPU support. It could be as simple as small piece of wood (in right height). E.g like so,
reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/IndianGami...ics_card_sag_fixed_all_i_need_now_is_rgb_for/
 
It doesn't matter what is used to support the GPU. I've seen even lego bricks used as a GPU support. It could be as simple as small piece of wood (in right height). E.g like so,
reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/IndianGami...ics_card_sag_fixed_all_i_need_now_is_rgb_for/
I see, I remember reading it about the single and multiple rail mode, and which one has the OPP/OVP/UVP/SCP protection in here "https://hardwaresecrets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-power-supply-protections/"
Is it true, that 12v rail has no such protection ?
 
Is it true, that 12v rail has no such protection ?
12V rail may not have OCP but it should have all others. Though, UVP is also optional and depends on OEM.

As of why single +12V rail PSUs may not have OCP, well, this post here explains it well (among other things),
link: https://www.overclock.net/threads/single-rail-vs-multi-rail-explained.761202/

OCP on a single rail is useful up to about 40A or thereabouts, which is where most 550W power supplies fall. So with 550W and under power supplies, it's a moot point. However, with high wattage units, >45A on the +12V (650W and higher) picking a multi-rail unit will provide you with an extra layer of protection. It isn't essential, and it has no impact on the power supply's performance. However, it does provide an extra layer of safety in case you get a short circuit. And I would consider it a must for >1000W power supplies; [H] recently tested the single rail Corsair AX1200, but they had an accidental short circuit, and since the PSU's OCP is set for over 100A, the short overloaded and destroyed most of their testing equipment. So there is a danger with single rail units over 1000W.

Oh, TH has hefty, 24 page article about PSUs and what they consist of and how they work (including protections);
article: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193.html
 
12V rail may not have OCP but it should have all others. Though, UVP is also optional and depends on OEM.

As of why single +12V rail PSUs may not have OCP, well, this post here explains it well (among other things),
link: https://www.overclock.net/threads/single-rail-vs-multi-rail-explained.761202/



Oh, TH has hefty, 24 page article about PSUs and what they consist of and how they work (including protections);
article: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193.html
Hmm, stills it's a bit harder to understand😄but I think it similiar to a single 16amp wire that run across your outlets, if the wire receives more than 16 amps, the fuse will kick in, I mean it looks like it has something to do with an overload on a single a wire, which is something similiar on a single rail psu's, am I wrong?