K8T NEO FIS2R Bios Not Found, Black Screen

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

Self-build K8T Neo/Athlon 64 - All went well and installed without
issue. Proceed to start for first time, POST Message of "Device not
installed, Bios not found" Not verbatim but basically that. Could not
get past that except to enter CMOS Setup, RAID setup etc. Attempted
Win-ME Start-up disk and got to a command prompt and attempted to
install Xp Pro, started but gave error of hard drive not found though
all SATA connections were solid. Decided must be related to the BIOS
not found issue. Downloaded latest BIOS for AMI for this board and
from command prompt typed A:\adsfI712.exe a6702vms.160 The screen
showed the Flash and then the Programming without a problem.
Restarted PC and Monitor was BLACK. Checked all conn's, replaced Video
card etc.

Next step, Copied Flash Util: adsfI712.exe and renamed BIOS of
amiboot.rom and restarted PC holding Ctrl-Home for at least 5 mins. No
success. Attempted Clear CMOS Jumper, replaced and Restarted with
Floppy Amiboot.rom again. No Success. noted D-Bracket with 4 Red LED's
on back. I know what that means but do not know if that was there all
along. Removed CPU Heatsink and verified power, connections and
reseated CPU and replaced Heatsink w/ no problems noted. Repeated Boot
steps with amiboot.rom but still black screen throughout. Please Help!
Thanks in advance.

AMD Athlon 64 3000+
MSI K8T NEO FIS2R
AMI Bios (attempted 1.4 and 1.6)
Legacy DDR 512MB PC3200 400mHz Single
Nvidia GeForce FX5200 (temporary)
Maxtor 160GB SATA 7200 8MB
Emprex DVD Dual 8x DVDRW
Raidmax PSU 420W
Windows XP Pro Eventually

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

Suggest an RMA...I have this board...no problem and have flashed the
bios 3 times... Sounds like the Bios was scrambled when you got it or
it was hit with some static electricity!

PS You might check to make sure there is no grounding from the board
to chasis.
Jeff

On 11 May 2004 22:50:38 -0700, neyman@hotmail.com (Bratek) wrote:

>Self-build K8T Neo/Athlon 64 - All went well and installed without
>issue. Proceed to start for first time, POST Message of "Device not
>installed, Bios not found" Not verbatim but basically that. Could not
>get past that except to enter CMOS Setup, RAID setup etc. Attempted
>Win-ME Start-up disk and got to a command prompt and attempted to
>install Xp Pro, started but gave error of hard drive not found though
>all SATA connections were solid. Decided must be related to the BIOS
>not found issue. Downloaded latest BIOS for AMI for this board and
>from command prompt typed A:\adsfI712.exe a6702vms.160 The screen
>showed the Flash and then the Programming without a problem.
>Restarted PC and Monitor was BLACK. Checked all conn's, replaced Video
>card etc.
>
>Next step, Copied Flash Util: adsfI712.exe and renamed BIOS of
>amiboot.rom and restarted PC holding Ctrl-Home for at least 5 mins. No
>success. Attempted Clear CMOS Jumper, replaced and Restarted with
>Floppy Amiboot.rom again. No Success. noted D-Bracket with 4 Red LED's
>on back. I know what that means but do not know if that was there all
>along. Removed CPU Heatsink and verified power, connections and
>reseated CPU and replaced Heatsink w/ no problems noted. Repeated Boot
>steps with amiboot.rom but still black screen throughout. Please Help!
>Thanks in advance.
>
>AMD Athlon 64 3000+
>MSI K8T NEO FIS2R
>AMI Bios (attempted 1.4 and 1.6)
>Legacy DDR 512MB PC3200 400mHz Single
>Nvidia GeForce FX5200 (temporary)
>Maxtor 160GB SATA 7200 8MB
>Emprex DVD Dual 8x DVDRW
>Raidmax PSU 420W
>Windows XP Pro Eventually

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

The old black screen on boot up with four red LEDs on the D-Bracket
is a fairly common problem.
So far I've only seen four fixes for the problem.

1. Defective motherboard (Although this is seldom the problem)
2. Power supply is defective, or you forgot to connect the four
wire auxiliary power connecter to the motherboard. The auxiliary power
connecter must be connected for this motherboard to work.
3. Your reset switch is stuck. Disconnect the reset switch from the
motherboard, then try to boot up.
4. This one is weird. It fixed my problem, however, based on the
troubleshooting you've done, I don't hold out hope it will fix yours.
For some strange reason, some MSI motherboards will not boot
if you've just plugged them in. Plug in the computer, make sure
the power strip and the switch on the power supply are all in the
"ON" position, then go grab a beer. After waiting a couple of minutes,
turn on the computer.
I know it sounds weird. But I have the same motherboard and CPU.
If I turn on the power strip and attempt to boot my computer immediately,
I get a black screen and four red LEDs. If I turn on the power strip and
wait a minute or two, the computer boots up every time and works
perfectly.

Hope this helps.




"Bratek" <neyman@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:bee6184f.0405112150.317d7562@posting.google.com...
Self-build K8T Neo/Athlon 64 - All went well and installed without
issue. Proceed to start for first time, POST Message of "Device not
installed, Bios not found" Not verbatim but basically that. Could not
get past that except to enter CMOS Setup, RAID setup etc. Attempted
Win-ME Start-up disk and got to a command prompt and attempted to
install Xp Pro, started but gave error of hard drive not found though
all SATA connections were solid. Decided must be related to the BIOS
not found issue. Downloaded latest BIOS for AMI for this board and
from command prompt typed A:\adsfI712.exe a6702vms.160 The screen
showed the Flash and then the Programming without a problem.
Restarted PC and Monitor was BLACK. Checked all conn's, replaced Video
card etc.

Next step, Copied Flash Util: adsfI712.exe and renamed BIOS of
amiboot.rom and restarted PC holding Ctrl-Home for at least 5 mins. No
success. Attempted Clear CMOS Jumper, replaced and Restarted with
Floppy Amiboot.rom again. No Success. noted D-Bracket with 4 Red LED's
on back. I know what that means but do not know if that was there all
along. Removed CPU Heatsink and verified power, connections and
reseated CPU and replaced Heatsink w/ no problems noted. Repeated Boot
steps with amiboot.rom but still black screen throughout. Please Help!
Thanks in advance.

AMD Athlon 64 3000+
MSI K8T NEO FIS2R
AMI Bios (attempted 1.4 and 1.6)
Legacy DDR 512MB PC3200 400mHz Single
Nvidia GeForce FX5200 (temporary)
Maxtor 160GB SATA 7200 8MB
Emprex DVD Dual 8x DVDRW
Raidmax PSU 420W
Windows XP Pro Eventually

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

Thanks for your input guys, any other hints are welcome. I wore the
handy anti-static blue wrist strap the whole time and have both power
connectors connected. I have all 9 brass spacers with washer things
but need to check anyway for some kind of short.

I have been doing a lot of forum research and have found a few other
strategies including, reseating or moving Memory stick to different
slot, trying an old stick of PC2100, checking my PSU Max Amps
settings, unplugging everything except Vid Card. I would be exstatic
just to get to see a POST or anything on the monitor at this point.
Not excited for the hassle but am starting to lean to RMA. Scary how
many issues with this board.

Plan to also verify Memory Specs for compatibility, I took the Sales
guy at Fry's word on this combo.

Thanks,
Jason

 

[nightmedic]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

"Stogie" <petersc@adelphia.net> wrote in
news:c7tdvp02ppm@news2.newsguy.com:
> AMD Athlon 64 3000+
> MSI K8T NEO FIS2R
>
>
> Hey! did you install the SATA drivers first? or didn't get that far? The
Sata drivers have to be loaded before yoy can install the operating system

 

[nightmedic]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

neyman@hotmail.com (Bratek) wrote in news:bee6184f.0405112150.317d7562
@posting.google.com:

> Self-build K8T Neo/Athlon 64 - All went well and installed without
> issue. Proceed to start for first time, POST Message of "Device not
> installed, Bios not found"

OK #1 SATA Drivers must be loaded first. before it will load the OS..
Second do you have a good power supply? Is everything grounded? But if Bios
is not found I suspect you have a bad BIOS. Call tech and RMA it. I am
using the same board without any of those problems and while I love MSI
mobo's I have had a problem with them once or twice on the QC side.
Night

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

Done Deal. MSI Support says RMA and Fry's Electronics says exchange it
and at this point sounds good to me. Unfortunately I missed the screen
or never got far enough to F6 install the SATA drivers. Good point
though, this is my first SATA setup with single drive and thought I
only needed to F6 add drivers on SCSI RAID, good to know! Also, in
reading other forums, my new PSU may not be cutting it. On the MSI
Forums it was recommended that the 12v Amps be quite a bit higher than
I have which is 13.0A. Will return Mobo, go for a 2nd shot, and price
a beefier Power Supply.

Have learned much with this experience. I am reassured that this may
be a Mfr QC or bad luck kind of thing. Look forward to 2nd board and
hope it fares better. Should be worth the wait.

Thanks!
Jason

P.S. Go with SATA driver disk or download latest?

 

[jay]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

Hi there,

> Thanks for your input guys, any other hints are welcome. I wore the
> handy anti-static blue wrist strap the whole time and have both power
> connectors connected. I have all 9 brass spacers with washer things
> but need to check anyway for some kind of short.

Although your existing MB maybe bad, I have a few suggestions for the
next one...

Actually, you WANT metal contact between the metal surrounding the screw
hole on the MB and the case. When you put the new MB in, don't use the
insulating washers make sure there is full metal contact.

Having metal contact with the case helps in a lot of ways, including
with EMI shielding, anti-static protection and heat evacuation.

Also, you said you used the "blue strap", but what was that actually
connected to? In order to properly use the grounding strap, it has to
connect to Earth ground at some point, otherwise the charge that has
built-up on your body doesn't go anywhere!

I suggest you hook a power cord to your power supply then clip the blue
cord to the power supply (say on a fan cage sheild). The power supply
case is tied to Earth ground, so this will work. With you wearing the
strap and it connected to the corded PSupply, put all the components in
your machine. Then as a last step, disconnect the power cord to the
supply and mount the power supply into the case and attach the power
cords.

Also, I don't know how good "Raidmax" is, but a *LOT* of power supplies
that have some power claim (i.e. 420W) don't live up to it. New machines
are VERY sensitive to a good power supply, so make sure you use
something that works well.

The Antec TruePower supplies have worked for me; I am using a 480W unit
on my dual-K7 (MSI K7D) and dual-K7 Tyan (24664N) and a 380W on a
fileserver and I've zero issues for 2+ years. These are the same boards
people have "odd" problems with and can't explain.

The one thing I *don't* like about the Antec supplies is they have some
"intelligent" fan throttling which runs the rear exhaust fan at a lower
RPM than default causing the unit to get warm.

Finally, you may want to go with a branded memory module that MSI has
tested with, like Kingston, Corsair, or Crucial.

Everytime I see someone with some "strange" issue like system locking
up, or not working properly, it's because they went cheap on the power
supply, memory or some peripheral (video card, etc). I'm not saying
that's your problem, but take what other people say with a grain of
salt...there are a lot of people who think they know a lot about
computers but sadly they don't.

Regards,
Jay.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

> Actually, you WANT metal contact between the metal surrounding the screw
> hole on the MB and the case. When you put the new MB in, don't use the
> insulating washers make sure there is full metal contact.
>
> Having metal contact with the case helps in a lot of ways, including
> with EMI shielding, anti-static protection and heat evacuation.

Thanks very much Jay, good info! I had been grounding myself to the
chassis but if it is on a wood table where is the ground? Also, I was
using the insulating washers that came with case. Makes me wonder as
on previous installs did not use those.

I got an A+GB 500W PSU today: +3.3v 26/35a, +5v 47/61a, +12v 28a. Also
exchanged the MoBo for same and will go at it again. Though have
learned from various Memory issues from these forums to stick with
memory verified and tested by MSI/AMD, I will see if my "Value" Legacy
Electronics 512MB PC3200 400mHz will work out. Plan to Memtest and
adjust manual settings if necessary. If not, move on to proven memory
brand.

Most appreciated,
Jason

 

[jay]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

Jason,

> Thanks very much Jay, good info!

You're welcome.

> I had been grounding myself to the
> chassis but if it is on a wood table where is the ground?

Exactly! That's why I suggested you hook an AC cord to the power supply
and then ground yourself to the power supply. The power supply metal
case is hooked to Earth ground which is what you want.

> Also, I was
> using the insulating washers that came with case. Makes me wonder as
> on previous installs did not use those.

I wasn't suggesting that not using the washers was THE reason, but it
certainly helps a lot TO use them.

> I got an A+GB 500W PSU today: +3.3v 26/35a, +5v 47/61a, +12v 28a. Also
> exchanged the MoBo for same and will go at it again.

I'm very skeptical of what the sticker on a power supply says. Most of
these power supplies are overseas "designed" and they're made as cheaply
as possible, without any real regard to quality or standards.

That's why I suggested the Antec, it maybe more expensive but it does
work. I would suggest the True380.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Jay.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

TaDa...PSU was the reason, That 500W looked nice, good specs etc., but
with testing using an Antec 430W True Power, I was able to POST!
Turned out the issue was that the Motherboard was not getting power.
Out of the 500w PSU the MoBo Power cable was 24 pin and they gave an
adapter for 20 pin. Somewhere in that power link or adapter was the
failure to provide power to the board.

In Summary, Wow did Windows XP install fast! The PSU that came with
the case, 4 red - no work, new 500w 4 red - no work, Antec 430w True
Power worked like a charm. During this troubleshooting process I
upped the ante to Kingmax HyperX PC3200 400mHz 2x512MB. Sweet!

Thanks Jay and others for your assistance. I hope this thread helps
others as well.

Jason

 

[jay]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

Hi Jason,

In article <bee6184f.0405151449.755c6be9@posting.google.com>,


> TaDa...PSU was the reason, That 500W looked nice, good specs etc., but
> with testing using an Antec 430W True Power, I was able to POST!
> Turned out the issue was that the Motherboard was not getting power.
> Out of the 500w PSU the MoBo Power cable was 24 pin and they gave an
> adapter for 20 pin. Somewhere in that power link or adapter was the
> failure to provide power to the board.

Ah-ha! I figured as much! Well, just spread the word on those other
forums that you found that if you use a *quality* power supply with
*quality* RAM, you're probably much less likely to have issues.

RMAs and new motherboards and all of that end up costing us, the
consumer in the long run. It's better do it right the first time than
rack up tech support time, returns to stores, shipping and all that
jazz.

Personally, I don't consider "Enermax", "Thermaltake" or any of those
other guys as decent power supply vendors. Antec TruePower certainly
does work (it has for me in all the high-end systems I've build).

The other more expensive route is PC Power & Cooling though their 480W
PSupply sounded like a jet engine; they had used some obnoxiously loud
fan last time I tried it. I also don't find their customer sevice to be
all that friendly, I think they're just banking on their past
reputation, but I digress.

Good luck with the machine, keep us POSTed 😉 (hah, hah, bad joke).

Jay.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

neyman@hotmail.com (Bratek) wrote in
news:bee6184f.0405122340.6e3917db@posting.google.com:
Look forward to 2nd board and
> hope it fares better. Should be worth the wait.
>
> Thanks!
> Jason
>
> P.S. Go with SATA driver disk or download latest?
>

Use the driver disk then update it.(live uodate included with driver/setup
disk). Oh by the way: keeep a record of your settings when and or if you
upgrade or flash the BIOS. When you download and flash everything goes to
default settings... ope all goes well!

Nightmedic

 

[tmac]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

I had the same exact problem with the same hardware specs, swapped my
power supply out for the Antec 430w TruePower and still get the Black
Screen of Death.

Anyone else have any other possible solutions?

==============
Posted through www.HowToFixComputers.com/bb - free access to hardware troubleshooting newsgroups.

 

[tmac]

Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.msi-microstar (More info?)

I had the same exact problem with the same hardware specs, swapped my
power supply out for the Antec 430w TruePower and still get the Black
Screen of Death.

Anyone else have any other possible solutions?

==============
Posted through www.HowToFixComputers.com/bb - free access to hardware troubleshooting newsgroups.