Question Load testing a battery backup unit?

punkncat

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I have an older APC J25 power conditioner and battery backup. It is a 1500VA 865W unit that was discontinued back in 2022. The battery pack in it went out and I have been unable to source the 'actual' battery pack. APC lists it on their website but there seems to be no button to purchase. One of the supply houses we use is a preferred retailer, but they have also been unable to procure one for me.

The batteries that are in the unit are 12V9Ah batteries connected together with a block for the wiring (to make 24V) and so they slide into the housing. I was able to take the brick apart, separate the batteries, but unfortunately the 9Ah part has been difficult to find. A larger battery will not fit, so out of expedience I utilized (2) 7Ah batteries in the pack instead. My experience tells me that this should have resulted in less run time and did not expect any other issue.

Well....issue.

I recently upgraded my main rig (11900K, SF750 Platinum, RX 7800 XT) and since doing so I am getting intermittent black screen no video failure during gaming. The PC doesn't throw any codes other than 41 AFTER I hit the power button to reset. It is otherwise non-responsive when the issue presents.

The backup unit has a self test which is passing. It shows load being drawn as well as runtime and aside from a few minutes less than before the battery pack started to fail everything seems to be right. I had (3) PC running from the conditioned power, but only (2) of them would be on at the same time while working, and then the (1) gaming rig running on it alone. The other systems are a 10th gen i3 and an 8th gen i5 without discrete graphics, not much for draw anyway.

I have taken the gaming rig off the backup and plugged it straight into the wall socket and am using the larger gauge power cord that came with the PSU. The black screen issue has not presented since doing so, not that it was particularly regular anyway.

To get to the point here, is there a way to load test a backup with a known quantity (possibly artificial) load such that I can see if the backup is to blame?
 
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Big pile of incandescent light bulbs is my go to (cheap) load tester of choice. You can control wattage by adding or removing a few bulbs.

Somewhere I have a box of 150W lightbulbs, some 60s and a few 30s for fine tuning. Now you do have to buy a lot of old school Edison sockets and wire them up.

Getting an actual load tester or some big honking resistors is the other option.

They still make big wire wound resistors, and you may even be able to get some relatively cheaply on ebay that have a variable slider.

 
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Yeah, when you have an immediate need is the worst. Sometimes schools sell them en masse at auctions on the cheap.

You really only need a few As long as it doesn't melt on you they are variable. The smaller the resistance value you want the less of the coil you use and the hotter that part gets. So if you want a higher load you seek out a lower resistance one. I think the 'smallest' I have somewhere is an 8 Ohm, made in the 50s I think. That would be 1800W at 120V RMS, which would probably melt it.

A pair of 25 Ohm in parallel might be better and spread the heat out a bit. Just depends on what you want to spend.
 

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