Many errors on Memtest86+ AND BSOD

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pkhamidar2com

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Feb 2, 2011
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Hello, i have recently built my new pc, and i have had 2 problems with the ram so far.

First time was 1 week ago or so, the same day i built and installed windows 7 and everything i got this image.

IMG_20110731_151031.jpg


and i got this same image I THINK, yesterday but it was late at night and my mum called me and asked me and i was too tiered to read it properly but i thing its the same. Or believe so...


So that was 2 BSOD's.


Also because of that yesterday i was told to use memtest86, so i downloaded the memtest86+ version, dont know why... and i run that.

Here are some images.

IMG_20110807_161655.jpg


IMG_20110807_165452.jpg


IMG_20110807_180633.jpg


IMG_20110807_185815.jpg


After pass3 i just thought, no point running any longer, shows how bad this ram is doesnt it...

Anyways should i return it?

Also if i do return it, should i ask for a replacement, or ask for a refund and buy this instead?
http://www.ebuyer.com/229102-kingston-4gb-ddr3-1066mhz-memory-non-ecc-cl7-1-5v-kvr1066d3n7-4g

because that one will have faster delivery.

thank you :) Not too sure what to do, im using this pc right now, its running fine, just randomly did that BSOD twice...
 
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You need to do (2) things: 1. Update your BIOS as shown above, 2. Manually set the RAM Frequency & CAS Timings.

IF this does not correct/fix the problem then RETURN your RAM for one of the sets I posted above.

IF this is too complicated then FIRST - RETURN your RAM, SECOND - if you still have a problem then take your PC to a service center e.g. Geek Squad. Perhaps IF you purchase the RAM from them AND bring your PC in then they 'might' set it up for free - maybe.

Look again. This is you Manually setting the RAM vs Auto.

Assuming DDR3 1333 MHz & BIOS:
FSB/DRAM Ratio -> {6.67:1 1333/200 or 3.33:1 667/200}
* So so that the: Adjust DRAM Frequency = 1333MHz
 
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hello i have a question.

I am going to upadte the bios but is there any difference in flashing bios or doing it via windows?

http://us.msi.com/service/Live-Update-5-Manual/

here, scroll to the bottom

BTW i keep getting an error when i try to download my bios through live update. IT says download fail, but thing is i have windows 7 64 bit, and the bios that the msi give is i think for 32 bit as it doesnt launch on my pc....
 
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As I said I prefer only USB methods like 'M-Flash' and the reason is the low 'brick' rate compared to that of 'Windows.' So will 'Live Update 5' work sure, is the 'brick' rate higher sure. 'Bricking' means that your MOBO flash failed and none of the 'recovery' procedures fixed the failed BIOS Flashing - 'Brick' aka expensive paperweight. If you're stuck to Windows then I would run MSCONFIG -> Diagnostic mode, reboot and try the App again plus verify and disable ANY anti-virus/Malware application(s). Once completed MSCONFIG -> Normal mode and reboot.

Video {poor quality} -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZmkb3S_e30

Therefore, IMO the ONLY method to use in 'Live Update 5' is the USB method see:

live_p9.jpg
 
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Ok, i will do it in usb mode. Quick question, i know theres alot of questions but i really dont want my mobo to brick..

Anyways you were saying before that i have to make my usb into a bootable drive right? And then that video by msi shows you how you drag the files into your bootable drive yes?

Well, will "in dos mode (USB)" do exactly the same thing? Just format a 1gb (is 1gb enough?) pendrive to fat 32, full format that is, then choose that usb stick?

But thing is you say to go into Mflash right?
But that guide just says

After restart, please set the computer to boot from USB. When the computer restarts from USB, please follow the instruction to update BIOS.

doesnt say anything about Mflash? So any difference?
 
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Just follow the directions -> http://us.msi.com/service/Live-Update-5-Manual/ and choose the 'In DOS mode. (USB)' and a 1GB Flash Drive is plenty. Live Update 5 makes the USB bootable and places the required files and formatting on the USB.

If for some reason it doesn't boot to the USB then you'll need to temporarily change the boot priority in the BIOS to the USB Flash Drive in the 1st priority.
 
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i updated bios... but it came up with this screen, it was black, anbd it said press cmos bad or something, and it said press f1 for set up, f2 for load deafalt drivers and thingy, and then i pressed f2 and i selected boot from sata hard drive.
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110814_163024.jpg

But i have a problem. I dont get how to set the ram thing. Where do i go to?
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110814_154859.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110814_154913.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110814_154550.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110814_154605.jpg
http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110814_154622.jpg


there are some pictures, i dont know how to change the timing though....
 
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This image suggests a pooched BIOS in other words the BIOS is quasi working but corrupted -> http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110814_163024.jpg ; if a Clear CMOS {Jumper Method} fails to correct the problem then IMO RE-Flash the BIOS. Also, IMO return the RAM for a good quality matched set from a reputable company: G.SKILL, Corsair, Kingston, Mushkin, or Crucial.

As far as the other images, other than the Command Rate {1T/2T Memory Timing -> 2T} it all looks correct for 'SPD' RAM defaults, at DDR3 1333 MHz 1T or 2T isn't going to cause tons of Memory errors.

Here's a regime to follow for memory errors:
1. Clear CMOS ; Failure -> next
2. Update BIOS ; Failure -> next
3. HSF - if the HSF is aftermarket and there's any metal to MOBO install plastic washers so that the HSF doesn't cause a short ; Stock HSF or Failure -> next
4. Boot with only (1) stick of RAM at a time and swap sticks ; Failure -> next
5. Standoff / I/O shorting - unscrew both the MOBO & PCIe screws, pull the MOBO out so that it dangles but is supported bay a towel away from anything conductive ; Failure -> RMA {exchange} RAM.
6. Downclock the RAM to DDR3 1333 or DDR 1066 speeds this typically suggests incompatible RAM and/or CPU incompatible to RAM speeds. Solution increase FSB {240} or BCLK {160} MHz and some MOBO's offer 'DOCP' to accommodate RAM speeds ; Failure -> Replace RAM with Compatible or otherwise QVL listed RAM. Failure again -> Next
7. RMA RAM + Failure -> RMA the MOBO.
 
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thats much too complicated :/ , that huge list, i didnt understand anything, im no expert like you...

i think its just easier if i return and replace ram huh?

BTW what is CMOS? Whats jumper method? Should i reflash the bios like i just did, insert the 1gb thing, boot from that, install and reflash? I didnt use mflash or anything, i just created it bootable, and then i just set it to boot priority first.

Is my mobo ok, is there a chance its now gonna be bricked?

also if it comes to that screen again, with the f1 and f2, what should i press? f1 or f2?

i will later link you to some rams im willing to buy, will you check them for me?
 
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F2 and yes IMO return the RAM. Idea - if you purchase the RAM locally bring your PC over to them and ask that they both install and check the RAM - they might check it for free.

If you look in your manual the CMOS and procedure will be explained, the Jumper is used to clear the CMOS and often corrects 'corruptions.'

IF the new RAM doesn't correct the pr
 
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Just to add. I know hindsight is 20/20 but didn't it occur to anyone here that recommending a BIOS update on a computer with faulty RAM might lead to BIOS corruption? I mean the computer must be making use of the faulty RAM to store the BIOS image file during the update process and so the BIOS gets corrupted as well 😀 Sad but true. The guy obviously has faulty RAM and there was NO need for a BIOS update in the first place.
 
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@pkhamidar2com : Return the RAM for a full refund. Don't buy anything from this vendor again. Buy memory from a computer shop near you or from reputable online etailers like newegg. Buy kingston, corsair, gskill RAM. Don't buy generics.
 
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I know Memtest and I know when the count is as low - as it is it's SAFE to flash, plus I know how the BIOS checksum's work. The BIOS data is read straight to the BIOS memory from the USB. The primary concern is that in 'BIOS' the system can remain stable, and if Memtest can run for 2 Hrs 43 Min then that's proof enough for me.

So yes I looked very closely. In contrast if the numbers were through the roof or the BIOS were unstable then I'd have recommend new RAM + stable BIOS. It's a catch-22, if the CPUID info is bad then under heavy load both the RAM and IMC are going to produce errors.
 
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http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac218/OtherGuyX/IMG_20110815_115522.jpg

here is the picture of the manual. So i assume i want to clear the manuel. But i dont get what the jumper is...

I also know from this picture
http://blog.thepcmechanic.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/cmos.jpg

that the cmos jumper is that little yellow thing.

Ok so what ive gathered is that the yellow thing short cuts the mobo or something?

So my question is, is the cmos jumper usually set to "keep data" and then do i just move it to "clear data" then turn it on, go into bios or something, then what? Do i turn it off and go back to keep data?

Does clearing data remove all bios versions and formats the bios or something?

what do i do?

what does JBAT1 mean? Can you tell me what to do?

I know the cmos is that silver round battery in the mobo.

So your saying i can keep the ram, and it is fine? Anyhow i will probably return this ram.

I was thinking this ram, it looks good.

http://www.msi.com/file/test_report/TR10_2057.pdf

from that list

http://www.ebuyer.com/179755-kingston-4gb-ddr3-1333mhz-memory-module-non-ecc-cl9-kvr1333d3n9-4g

as that was on the list, would that be ok?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002D11C6U/ref=asc_df_B002D11C6U4023852?smid=A1D873RMPMIV2C&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22242&creativeASIN=B002D11C6U

or that one too, that was also on the list.

I cant spend a load of money on new ram, but those are good prices. What do you think?
 
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The 'jumper' opens/closes a circuit like a switch. Read the manual and temporarily change the jumper position as described in the manual. You pull-out the jumper and push-into position. JBAT is the jumper to turn on/off the battery to the CMOS {BIOS settings memory}, by moving it it looses power and the CMOS is cleared.

IMO if the Clear CMOS fails and (1) stick fails -> try the other (1) stick then you probably need to bring the PC in for service. I outlined 1-7 above to problem solve, and if you're uncomfortable doing those items then I'm not recommending that your do any of them.

edit: you'll know the CMOS has been cleared if the BIOS Date & Time needs to be set. Also, the PSU carries residual power so often pulling the CMOS battery doesn't properly clear the CMOS - hence the 'Jumper Method.' Remember to set the Date &Time in the BIOS.
 
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Ok i did it, how do i know if it worked?

It said cmos time has to be set, said press f1 for set up (takes me to bios screen) or press f2 for load deafult values and thingy

so i pressed f1, went and set up the time as it was stated on my phone.

What do i do now? How do i know if its all fixed?

And can you please look into my previous post about the ram i posted?
 
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well im going to do a memtest86+ test now, so ill report back in a few seconds. Im going to do both sticks though. No point in returning just one, best if i just get a whole new set, unless the problem is fixed obviously.
 
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ok before i tell you the results. I dont know whether the bios worked or not as when i turn the pc on, when there SHOULD be that screen with the colour showing MSI and the "gamer series" stuff, it doesnt show that, it jus thsows the black screen saying "mouse, keyboard, stat drive etc..."...

so yeah, thats weird.. the boot image is gone.

IMG_20110816_184515.jpg


IMG_20110816_184526.jpg


IMG_20110816_184755.jpg


IMG_20110816_185048.jpg
 
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I don't know what your Defaults are, but I constantly get requests on 'how to turn them off' - ASUS/GA/MSI/etc. If the PC boots successfully into Windows with NO BSOD then it's a move in the right direction. You need to eliminate the errors.

You could also try running the RAM underclocked to 1066 MHz:
FSB/DRAM Ratio -> {5.33:1 1066/200 or 2.67:1 533/200}
* So so that the: Adjust DRAM Frequency = 1066MHz

Cheap RAM - might also solve the problem. Couldn't hurt so give it a try.
 
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I got the ram refunded :)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0019MEIOM/ref=asc_df_B0019MEIOM4169726?smid=A38UDII8M9Z5GS&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22218&creativeASIN=B0019MEIOM

how is this ram. It was also on the list.

KVR1333D3N9/2G(N9K2/4G)

it was that... but

i typed in

KVR1333D3N9K2/4G

basically optional 2gb or 4gb, i chose 4gb.

Do you think that ram is ok, its 5 pounds cheaper than the corsair one

should i get that or should i get the corsair one. As in that one is kingston so it looks good.

What do you think jaquieth?
 
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