Question Motherboard Died Overnight, how do i prevent it next time?

[chriswa2002]

Hi everyone.

Recently, my motherboard died from night to morning, it was a gigabyte a520m s2h. Today i changed the motherboard to an msi b550a pro and everything works fine.
I was playing games on my pc at around 8pm, everything worked fine, i went out and came back home, played a bit again at around 2am, again everything fine, i turn the pc off and go to bed and when i wake up, absolutely nothing happens with i press the power button. My psu was connected to one of these (https://powest.com/producto/regulador-electronico-de-voltaje-powest-propc-1000/) (I got it from a local store so it's in spanish, and sometimes there are blackouts here, power goes off and on right away).

The answer is to get a better quality UPS, but i need to save up for a bit for that.

My pc is back from the dead and now i don't want to make the same mistake, i don't know how often these things actually happen. so my question is, what can i do? unplug my pc every night?

SPECS
CPU: Ryzen 7 5700X3D
GPU: Gtx 1080
PSU: EVGA 600W 80plus white around 3-4 years old, bought new
RAM: 16gb 3200mhz
STORAGE: OS on m.2 drive, one ssd and one hdd
MOBO: b550a pro (new one)

 

[Aeacus]

unplug my pc every night?

This is the cheap way, albeit not the convenient way.

Convenient way costs money and quite a bit. Meaning that you buy yourself proper, good quality UPS. Outputting true/pure sine wave with line-interactive topology. Easy €200.

If you want to know more about UPSes, let me know.

was connected to one of these (https://powest.com/producto/regulador-electronico-de-voltaje-powest-propc-1000/)

Looks like AVR but i can't tell for sure, since i don't speak Spanish.

Could be just plain surge protector as well.

My psu

Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

Need to know all of that, if you want UPS suggestions.

 

[chriswa2002]

This is the cheap way, albeit not the convenient way.

Convenient way costs money and quite a bit. Meaning that you buy yourself proper, good quality UPS. Outputting true/pure sine wave with line-interactive topology. Easy €200.

If you want to know more about UPSes, let me know.


Looks like AVR but i can't tell for sure, since i don't speak Spanish.

Could be just plain surge protector as well.


Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

Need to know all of that, if you want UPS suggestions.

I edited the post and added the specs, i am just very paranoid that i wake up to this happening again.

I think for now, i will be unplugging the psu cable (from the "UPS", not psu) and flipping the psu switch off, then when i use the pc, i will plug it in, wait like a minute, flip the switch on and press the power button.

 

[Aeacus]

PSU: EVGA 600W 80plus white around 3-4 years old, bought new

What model is the PSU?
Since what you listed, are: make, wattage, efficiency, age and it was bought new.
(In similar sense, my PSU is Seasonic, 650W, 80+ Titanium, 8 years old and bought brand new. - Can you tell what PSU i exactly have?)

If you don't know your PSU model, take a pic of PSU's label (where bunch of amps and watts are seen), upload it to the net, e.g www.imgur.com and share the image here.

But if the PSU truly is 80+ White, then it doesn't sound like a PSU worth using, whereby, it very well could've been PSU issue, as of why your old MoBo died. But can't say that for sure, without knowing the exact model of your PSU.

 

[chriswa2002]

What model is the PSU?
Since what you listed, are: make, wattage, efficiency, age and it was bought new.
(In similar sense, my PSU is Seasonic, 650W, 80+ Titanium, 8 years old and bought brand new. - Can you tell what PSU i exactly have?)

If you don't know your PSU model, take a pic of PSU's label (where bunch of amps and watts are seen), upload it to the net, e.g www.imgur.com and share the image here.

But if the PSU truly is 80+ White, then it doesn't sound like a PSU worth using, whereby, it very well could've been PSU issue, as of why your old MoBo died. But can't say that for sure, without knowing the exact model of your PSU.

Here's the power supply info.

https://imgur.com/dJBj19E

View: https://imgur.com/dJBj19E

 

[Aeacus]

Here's the power supply info.

Thanks.

Sadly, label doesn't show PSU's part number, but based on the label layout, i did find out that the PSU is EVGA W1 series,
specs: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=100-W1-0600-K1

That is a crap quality PSU and most likely behind why your 1st MoBo died. Since when PSU acts up, MoBo is 1st one to die, usually.
Only EVGA N1 and N2 series PSUs are worse than your W1 series, so, there's no high risk of the PSU actually catching fire, as it would be with N1/N2 series. Still, your PSU is bad and new PSU is a must.

Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
With this, NEVER cheap out on PSU! (Which you did.) Also, never buy used PSU either.

Because you have high-end and expensive hardware in use, with GTX 1080 that is 180W but who's transient power spikes can spike to ~400W, new PSU wattage would be:
ATX 2.1/2.5 PSU - 750W (to soak up transient power spikes)
ATX 3.0/3.1 PSU - 650W (it is designed to handle GPU transient power spikes and can sustain double the wattage capacity during the spikes, e.g 650W can sustain 1300W for ~100ms)

As of PSU make/models: good PSUs to go for, are: Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
There are Seasonic Focus and PRIME units that are ATX 3.0. And Seasonic Vertex is ATX 3.0 off the bat.
For other ATX 3.0/3.1 PSUs, further reading: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/2/

As of currently, i would not power on the PC at all. Since at this moment, you're risking frying your entire PC.
Because the lower the PSU build quality is - the higher the chance of PSU going "boom", releasing magic smoke and frying everything it is connected to (aka your whole PC).

For simplicity sake, i like to classify PSUs into different build quality tiers, whereby:
#1 great quality (e.g Seasonic PRIME, CorsairAXi, Super Flower Leadex Titanium)
Seasonic Vertex, Corsair HXi and Super Flower Leadex Platinum are between good and great quality
#2 good quality (e.g Seasonic Focus, Corsair RMx/RMi, Super Flower Leadex Gold)
#3 mediocre quality (e.g Seasonic Core, Corsair CX/CXm)
#4 low quality (e.g Corsair CV)
#5 crap quality (e.g Seasonic S12III, Corsair VS, EVGA BT/PB/W1/W2/W3/N1/N2)

And for any PC that has dedicated GPU, good quality PSU is minimum, while great quality PSU is preferred.
Now, if PC doesn't have dedicated GPU (e.g office build), then mediocre quality PSU would be minimum, while good quality PSU is preferred.

So, if you want to avoid killing any other hadware in your PC, like your new MoBo or your expensive GTX 1080, new PSU is a must. Else-ways, you're pushing your luck and question isn't if the EVGA W1 blows up and fries your entire PC, but instead when it happens.

Once you have new, good/great quality PSU powering your PC, then you can look towards UPS to protect against blackouts, brownouts and surges, protecting your PC and new PSU further.

Need to know all of that, if you want UPS suggestions.

In my opinion, every PC should be backed up bu an UPS.

UPSes can output 3 different kinds of waveform:
1. square wave - cheapest of the three. ONLY good for robust hardware, like power generators and motors.
2. simulated sine wave (aka stepped-approximated sine wave) - mediocre price. Good for most home appliances (e.g fridge, washing machine, lights).
3. true/pure sine wave - high price. It is the same as you get out of the wall socket. ONLY waveform good for sensitive electronics, like medical equipment, TVs, PC PSUs.

So, you want to have true/pure sine wave UPS. Simulated sine wave UPS may also work, but it may not. More of that below;


When looking for an UPS, there are 2 things to look out:
1. Output waveform (square wave, simulated sine wave and true/pure sine wave)
2. Design (stand-by, line-interactive and online)

From here you can read about the differences between output waveform,
link: https://suvastika.com/why-choose-a-sinewave-inverter-ups/

And here are explanations about the UPS design,
link: https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272971

Waveform and design
For PCs, line-interactive UPS would be more than enough since PSUs can easily handle the 2ms to 5ms transfer time of line-interactive UPS.
As far as output waveform goes, true/pure sine wave UPS is best used. While simulated sine wave UPSes are cheaper than true/pure sine wave UPSes, PSUs with Active PFC aren't compatible with simulated sine wave. You might get simulated sine wave UPS running with Active PFC PSU but there can be some major issues. Here's what, how and why.

How do you know which PSUs have Active PFC and which ones don't?
Simple, every PSU that has 80+ certification (e.g 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) has Active PFC.

What is Active PFC?
Further reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor#Power_factor_correction_(PFC)_in_non-linear_loads

What can happen when using simulated sine wave UPS with Active PFC PSU?
When simulated sine wave UPS switches over to the battery power, one of 3 things can happen:
1. UPS displays error resulting PC to shut down immediately.
2. UPS shuts down resulting PC to shut down immediately.
3. UPS switches to battery power resulting PC to power off from UPS (PC stays on).

Why it happens?
Simulated sine wave UPS produces a zero output state during the phase change cycle resulting in a power “gap”. This gap may cause power interruption for active PFC PSUs when switching from AC power output to simulated sine wave output (battery mode).

What to do next?
As stated above, your PC can run off from simulated sine wave UPS but be prepared when you face issues with it. When issues do rise, your best bet would be returning the simulated sine wave UPS and getting true/pure sine wave UPS. Or you can go with true/pure sine wave UPS off the bat.

Wattage
As far as UPS wattage goes, you need to consider the power draw of your PC and monitors. Maybe speakers and wi-fi router too if you plan to plug those into the UPS as well. Though, printers, scanners and other such hardware (full list on your UPS manual) don't plug to the UPS since their startup power draw is way too much for UPS to handle and you can fry your UPS.

Taking PSU's max wattage as a baseline is good idea since it will give your UPS more headroom and you can get longer runtime out of your UPS. Since i don't know what wattage PSU you'd be going for, be it 650W, 750W or 850W but at least one monitor is added on top of it. Depending on the monitor size, they use between 23W to 52W. Wi-fi routers don't consume much power. For example, my Cisco EPC3940L consumes 12V at 3A which means 36W.

Good UPS brands to go for are CyberPower, TrippLite and APC. While there are other UPS brands as well, those three are the best out there.
Note: The more powerful UPS you have, the longer UPS can keep your PC running before it's battery is empty.


My PCs are also backed by UPSes (one UPS per PC) and i have two of these in use:
CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD (1300VA/780W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive),
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/hk/en/product/sku/CP1300EPFCLCD

This UPS has enough capacity and also outputs true/pure sine wave, so, it should be sufficient for your PC as well.

Or you can also go with the successor model of what i have, namely:
CyberPower CP1350EPFCLCD (1350VA/810W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive)
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/cp1350epfclcd

This, newer version, is actually the UPS i plan to get, to replace my aging (now 6 years old) UPSes out.

 

[chriswa2002]

Thanks.

Sadly, label doesn't show PSU's part number, but based on the label layout, i did find out that the PSU is EVGA W1 series,
specs: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=100-W1-0600-K1

That is a crap quality PSU and most likely behind why your 1st MoBo died. Since when PSU acts up, MoBo is 1st one to die, usually.
Only EVGA N1 and N2 series PSUs are worse than your W1 series, so, there's no high risk of the PSU actually catching fire, as it would be with N1/N2 series. Still, your PSU is bad and new PSU is a must.

Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.
With this, NEVER cheap out on PSU! (Which you did.) Also, never buy used PSU either.

Because you have high-end and expensive hardware in use, with GTX 1080 that is 180W but who's transient power spikes can spike to ~400W, new PSU wattage would be:
ATX 2.1/2.5 PSU - 750W (to soak up transient power spikes)
ATX 3.0/3.1 PSU - 650W (it is designed to handle GPU transient power spikes and can sustain double the wattage capacity during the spikes, e.g 650W can sustain 1300W for ~100ms)

As of PSU make/models: good PSUs to go for, are: Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
There are Seasonic Focus and PRIME units that are ATX 3.0. And Seasonic Vertex is ATX 3.0 off the bat.
For other ATX 3.0/3.1 PSUs, further reading: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/2/

As of currently, i would not power on the PC at all. Since at this moment, you're risking frying your entire PC.
Because the lower the PSU build quality is - the higher the chance of PSU going "boom", releasing magic smoke and frying everything it is connected to (aka your whole PC).

For simplicity sake, i like to classify PSUs into different build quality tiers, whereby:
#1 great quality (e.g Seasonic PRIME, CorsairAXi, Super Flower Leadex Titanium)
Seasonic Vertex, Corsair HXi and Super Flower Leadex Platinum are between good and great quality
#2 good quality (e.g Seasonic Focus, Corsair RMx/RMi, Super Flower Leadex Gold)
#3 mediocre quality (e.g Seasonic Core, Corsair CX/CXm)
#4 low quality (e.g Corsair CV)
#5 crap quality (e.g Seasonic S12III, Corsair VS, EVGA BT/PB/W1/W2/W3/N1/N2)

And for any PC that has dedicated GPU, good quality PSU is minimum, while great quality PSU is preferred.
Now, if PC doesn't have dedicated GPU (e.g office build), then mediocre quality PSU would be minimum, while good quality PSU is preferred.

So, if you want to avoid killing any other hadware in your PC, like your new MoBo or your expensive GTX 1080, new PSU is a must. Else-ways, you're pushing your luck and question isn't if the EVGA W1 blows up and fries your entire PC, but instead when it happens.

Once you have new, good/great quality PSU powering your PC, then you can look towards UPS to protect against blackouts, brownouts and surges, protecting your PC and new PSU further.


In my opinion, every PC should be backed up bu an UPS.

UPSes can output 3 different kinds of waveform:
1. square wave - cheapest of the three. ONLY good for robust hardware, like power generators and motors.
2. simulated sine wave (aka stepped-approximated sine wave) - mediocre price. Good for most home appliances (e.g fridge, washing machine, lights).
3. true/pure sine wave - high price. It is the same as you get out of the wall socket. ONLY waveform good for sensitive electronics, like medical equipment, TVs, PC PSUs.

So, you want to have true/pure sine wave UPS. Simulated sine wave UPS may also work, but it may not. More of that below;


When looking for an UPS, there are 2 things to look out:
1. Output waveform (square wave, simulated sine wave and true/pure sine wave)
2. Design (stand-by, line-interactive and online)

From here you can read about the differences between output waveform,
link: https://suvastika.com/why-choose-a-sinewave-inverter-ups/

And here are explanations about the UPS design,
link: https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1272971

Waveform and design
For PCs, line-interactive UPS would be more than enough since PSUs can easily handle the 2ms to 5ms transfer time of line-interactive UPS.
As far as output waveform goes, true/pure sine wave UPS is best used. While simulated sine wave UPSes are cheaper than true/pure sine wave UPSes, PSUs with Active PFC aren't compatible with simulated sine wave. You might get simulated sine wave UPS running with Active PFC PSU but there can be some major issues. Here's what, how and why.

How do you know which PSUs have Active PFC and which ones don't?
Simple, every PSU that has 80+ certification (e.g 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) has Active PFC.

What is Active PFC?
Further reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor#Power_factor_correction_(PFC)_in_non-linear_loads

What can happen when using simulated sine wave UPS with Active PFC PSU?
When simulated sine wave UPS switches over to the battery power, one of 3 things can happen:
1. UPS displays error resulting PC to shut down immediately.
2. UPS shuts down resulting PC to shut down immediately.
3. UPS switches to battery power resulting PC to power off from UPS (PC stays on).

Why it happens?
Simulated sine wave UPS produces a zero output state during the phase change cycle resulting in a power “gap”. This gap may cause power interruption for active PFC PSUs when switching from AC power output to simulated sine wave output (battery mode).

What to do next?
As stated above, your PC can run off from simulated sine wave UPS but be prepared when you face issues with it. When issues do rise, your best bet would be returning the simulated sine wave UPS and getting true/pure sine wave UPS. Or you can go with true/pure sine wave UPS off the bat.

Wattage
As far as UPS wattage goes, you need to consider the power draw of your PC and monitors. Maybe speakers and wi-fi router too if you plan to plug those into the UPS as well. Though, printers, scanners and other such hardware (full list on your UPS manual) don't plug to the UPS since their startup power draw is way too much for UPS to handle and you can fry your UPS.

Taking PSU's max wattage as a baseline is good idea since it will give your UPS more headroom and you can get longer runtime out of your UPS. Since i don't know what wattage PSU you'd be going for, be it 650W, 750W or 850W but at least one monitor is added on top of it. Depending on the monitor size, they use between 23W to 52W. Wi-fi routers don't consume much power. For example, my Cisco EPC3940L consumes 12V at 3A which means 36W.

Good UPS brands to go for are CyberPower, TrippLite and APC. While there are other UPS brands as well, those three are the best out there.
Note: The more powerful UPS you have, the longer UPS can keep your PC running before it's battery is empty.


My PCs are also backed by UPSes (one UPS per PC) and i have two of these in use:
CyberPower CP1300EPFCLCD (1300VA/780W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive),
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/hk/en/product/sku/CP1300EPFCLCD

This UPS has enough capacity and also outputs true/pure sine wave, so, it should be sufficient for your PC as well.

Or you can also go with the successor model of what i have, namely:
CyberPower CP1350EPFCLCD (1350VA/810W, true/pure sine wave, line-interactive)
specs: https://www.cyberpower.com/eu/en/product/sku/cp1350epfclcd

This, newer version, is actually the UPS i plan to get, to replace my aging (now 6 years old) UPSes out.

Thanks for all the info and your time, of how many watts should i buy the psu if i might upgrade the gpu later on? Will 600W be good or should i go for 750W? Probably will upgrade the gpu years later but still.
Will see if i can find a good psu in amazon, now im kind of scared to use the pc haha. I recently bought this motherboard and the cpu so i need to search for not so expensive options of psu.

What do you think about this one?
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM650-Modular-Low-Noise-Supply/dp/B0CQN16G8Z?crid=3UEXN673ZZZJA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zGxQYsnTzBTUFVejTMnFIeFtHyoTRGj8Aonsh6G9c6p4BQppmG8hzCsc1X4c79CTntnKfR3nBxHsZMD_v9DTqBjtM8HGZ_6BdQH2DYo--wGdcuaSWa0gT6Chu6Al9AxnwhHVuP_WcvuMaub00e_NjGU0YgGzcO6Ai47bPfWEf4cJjPVMxAsTijknCVzgBKfo9WvU8mUnM51SHjBnnyhtY013zR7MQYJUCAFgGnukhBY.9xbUOO2Rt5WqwplUMxYgDgxrn5ti-MImyxGOXJhZbzM&dib_tag=se&keywords=Corsair+RM650&qid=1735692852&sprefix=corsair+rm6,aps,197&sr=8-1&th=1

Or this one
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Fully-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B093R3HVCK?crid=HLRLPAOB9PMI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.S1vW90FJeHENZtAJ3rZUkeW8aNctSkFsBRXEUH47CoiBAEcv0uyOFzSNjcqFKMp2MD6QeXbkFK2wYBk00UiERNWQmI95JDUAWFPCsPFNokrpMsgFx2cy-Bix9VrQv8HmNu7Ol1z6tQRzSfCp8DQ-TCJ1nkSQtkDPa781S8OQAL7CqxU-fjWvVlRfS2XA6ZPUGC-T5GqHVMhTPOVw_DkOzYGHtJZ8HW6vaUvj4bpkvB8.j03ltpL-Bc6hbIzM2RB2Pog10DtCOEfsSusJd7wOfdI&dib_tag=se&keywords=Corsair+RM750&qid=1735693067&sprefix=corsair+rm750,aps,223&sr=8-1&th=1

And a friend is recommending this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M9M6DB...57PRC0B9GHQ1&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1&th=1

 

[Aeacus]

of how many watts should i buy the psu if i might upgrade the gpu later on? Will 600W be good or should i go for 750W? Probably will upgrade the gpu years later but still.

Depends on what GPU you go next.

As it currently stands, with RTX 30- and 40-series;
RTX 4090 needs 1200W PSU, preferably one with ATX 3.0 standard. 1500/1600W PSU would be preferred.
RTX 4080/3090/3090 Ti needs 1000W PSU.
RTX 3070/3080/3080 Ti needs 850W PSU.
RTX 4070 Ti needs 750W PSU.
RTX 4060 Ti/3060/3060 Ti needs 650W PSU.
RTX 4060 needs 550W PSU.

Since RTX 50-series isn't out yet, we don't know power consumption of those. But it is rumored that RTX 5090 could be 600W GPU (on-par to RTX 4090).

so i need to search for not so expensive options of psu.

Different persons have different standards (some have higher standards while others have lower standards) and it's up to every person to decide how good of a build quality components are safe to use in their PC. But keep in mind that PSU is the most important component inside the PC since it powers everything.

Since i care a lot about all my PCs, i won't put a mediocre quality unit into my PC that fails to meet ATX PSU standards set in place for all OEMs to follow, so that the PSUs are safe to use and doesn't damage other components. In fact, i've gone above and beyond regarding PSUs in my PCs.
Some may call me nuts that i payed €206.80 for a PSU that sits in my Skylake build (Seasonic SSR-650TD) and my latest PSU purchase for Haswell build costed €205.50 (Seasonic SSR-650TR), while i would've been safe with a PSU that costs €80.50 (Seasonic GX-550). While that can be true and i could've saved a lot of money, i feel safe and comfortable that my two main PCs are powered by the best offered by Seasonic. Only for my 3rd PC, old AMD build, i slightly reduced my PSU quality standard and bought a PSU that costed €101.50 (Seasonic PX-550). Still, all 3 of my PSUs are great/good quality.

I'm not saying that you have to go with the best that money can buy. There are cheaper, but still good options out there, like Seasonic Focus, Corsair RMx/RMi. Super Flower has less availability and you may not find one sale in your area.
But do not cheap out on PSU again. You already bought cheap PSU that costed you your 1st MoBo. Do you need another cheap PSU as well?

 

[chriswa2002]

Depends on what GPU you go next.

As it currently stands, with RTX 30- and 40-series;
RTX 4090 needs 1200W PSU, preferably one with ATX 3.0 standard. 1500/1600W PSU would be preferred.
RTX 4080/3090/3090 Ti needs 1000W PSU.
RTX 3070/3080/3080 Ti needs 850W PSU.
RTX 4070 Ti needs 750W PSU.
RTX 4060 Ti/3060/3060 Ti needs 650W PSU.
RTX 4060 needs 550W PSU.

Since RTX 50-series isn't out yet, we don't know power consumption of those. But it is rumored that RTX 5090 could be 600W GPU (on-par to RTX 4090).


Different persons have different standards (some have higher standards while others have lower standards) and it's up to every person to decide how good of a build quality components are safe to use in their PC. But keep in mind that PSU is the most important component inside the PC since it powers everything.

Since i care a lot about all my PCs, i won't put a mediocre quality unit into my PC that fails to meet ATX PSU standards set in place for all OEMs to follow, so that the PSUs are safe to use and doesn't damage other components. In fact, i've gone above and beyond regarding PSUs in my PCs.
Some may call me nuts that i payed €206.80 for a PSU that sits in my Skylake build (Seasonic SSR-650TD) and my latest PSU purchase for Haswell build costed €205.50 (Seasonic SSR-650TR), while i would've been safe with a PSU that costs €80.50 (Seasonic GX-550). While that can be true and i could've saved a lot of money, i feel safe and comfortable that my two main PCs are powered by the best offered by Seasonic. Only for my 3rd PC, old AMD build, i slightly reduced my PSU quality standard and bought a PSU that costed €101.50 (Seasonic PX-550). Still, all 3 of my PSUs are great/good quality.

I'm not saying that you have to go with the best that money can buy. There are cheaper, but still good options out there, like Seasonic Focus, Corsair RMx/RMi. Super Flower has less availability and you may not find one sale in your area.
But do not cheap out on PSU again. You already bought cheap PSU that costed you your 1st MoBo. Do you need another cheap PSU as well?

I might call you crazy for that 200 euro psu haha but i can't say anything cause look at my psu, it was one i had from a previous system and i didn't think of it too much till my motherboard was fried.

From the links i sent, which one of those do you think is better?

 

[Aeacus]

I might call you crazy for that 200 euro psu haha

Given that many people have 0 issues forking out €/$500+ GPU and some are even buying €/$2000 GPU (RTX 4090), then how come buying €/$200 PSU would be viewed any different?
So, if you look it at that, then €/$200 PSU would only be minuscule expense compared to CPU and GPU, while PSU is more important that CPU and GPU.

From the links i sent, which one of those do you think is better?

Corsair RM-series is mediocre quality. I would not suggest it for you.
Cooler Master MWE V2 Gold is between mediocre and low quality, so, worse than Corsair RM-series.

Here, Seasonic Focus GX-650,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-650FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H33X7R

Exactly the same price as Cooler Master unit ($99), but Focus is good quality PSU with 10 year warranty.
Review of 750W unit: https://tech-legend.com/reviews/seasonic-focus-gx-750/

For other options;
Great quality EVGA SuperNova GT 750 for $105,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-GT-0750-Y1/dp/B088SV1FH9

Good quality Corsair RMx 750 ATX 3.1 for €120,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM750x-Modular-Low-Noise-Supply/dp/B0DJ1M18CY?th=1

 

[chriswa2002]

Given that many people have 0 issues forking out €/$500+ GPU and some are even buying €/$2000 GPU (RTX 4090), then how come buying €/$200 PSU would be viewed any different?
So, if you look it at that, then €/$200 PSU would only be minuscule expense compared to CPU and GPU, while PSU is more important that CPU and GPU.


Corsair RM-series is mediocre quality. I would not suggest it for you.
Cooler Master MWE V2 Gold is between mediocre and low quality, so, worse than Corsair RM-series.

Here, Seasonic Focus GX-650,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-650FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H33X7R

Exactly the same price as Cooler Master unit ($99), but Focus is good quality PSU with 10 year warranty.
Review of 750W unit: https://tech-legend.com/reviews/seasonic-focus-gx-750/

For other options;
Great quality EVGA SuperNova GT 750 for $105,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-GT-0750-Y1/dp/B088SV1FH9

Good quality Corsair RMx 750 ATX 3.1 for €120,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM750x-Modular-Low-Noise-Supply/dp/B0DJ1M18CY?th=1

Alright ill buy one, do you think i can keep using the pc in the meantime? While the other psu arrives, would be like 10 days.
I wouldn’t use it a lot, just to play when my friends ask me to.

 

[chriswa2002]

Alright ill buy one, do you think i can keep using the pc in the meantime? While the other psu arrives, would be like 10 days.
I wouldn’t use it a lot, just to play when my friends ask me to.

Nevermind, already made up my mind that i wont use it till the new psu arrives.

 

[chriswa2002]

Given that many people have 0 issues forking out €/$500+ GPU and some are even buying €/$2000 GPU (RTX 4090), then how come buying €/$200 PSU would be viewed any different?
So, if you look it at that, then €/$200 PSU would only be minuscule expense compared to CPU and GPU, while PSU is more important that CPU and GPU.


Corsair RM-series is mediocre quality. I would not suggest it for you.
Cooler Master MWE V2 Gold is between mediocre and low quality, so, worse than Corsair RM-series.

Here, Seasonic Focus GX-650,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-650FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H33X7R

Exactly the same price as Cooler Master unit ($99), but Focus is good quality PSU with 10 year warranty.
Review of 750W unit: https://tech-legend.com/reviews/seasonic-focus-gx-750/

For other options;
Great quality EVGA SuperNova GT 750 for $105,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Supernova-Modular-Warranty-220-GT-0750-Y1/dp/B088SV1FH9

Good quality Corsair RMx 750 ATX 3.1 for €120,
amazon: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM750x-Modular-Low-Noise-Supply/dp/B0DJ1M18CY?th=1

Do i need to have anything into consideration when switching the power supplies? Currently the bad psu is in my pc case, unplugged from electricity and switched off but still connected to the motherboard.
Should i just disconnect every psu cables from the motherboard?

 

[USAFRet]

Do i need to have anything into consideration when switching the power supplies? Currently the bad psu is in my pc case, unplugged from electricity and switched off but still connected to the motherboard.
Should i just disconnect every psu cables from the motherboard?

Remove ALL the cables from the old PSU.
Use only the cables that come with the new PSU.

 

[Aeacus]

Remove ALL the cables from the old PSU.
Use only the cables that come with the new PSU.

Well, OP's EVGA W1 is fully-wired, so... there is no other option to remove all power cables when replacing PSU.

Do i need to have anything into consideration when switching the power supplies? Currently the bad psu is in my pc case, unplugged from electricity and switched off but still connected to the motherboard.
Should i just disconnect every psu cables from the motherboard?

Since your W1-series is fully-wired, you have to remove all power cables regardless. You can do that in advance, by taking the old PSU out before new one arrives. This would also give you chance to clean the insides of the PC from dust.