Motherboard Fanheader amperage

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lgoodwn12

lgoodwn12

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Dec 25, 2014
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I have an ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-H GAMING LGA1151 MOBO and I was wondering if it had 1amp fan headers on the MOBO or not? For I can run a splitter and run two fan on 1 fan header of the MOBO for I can control it by software. I know the ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING LGA1151 has 1amp but couldn't find anything out there for my MOBO.
 
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dudmont
Ok, I'll work your questions 1 by 1. I have several boards, but the one in my main machine(the machine you can see if you click on the AC-130) is a z87 xpower MSI board. The standard amperage, on boards when I went investigating the amperage(your board might in fact have 1 amp PWM 4 pin fan connectors) several years back was .5 amps. See I too wanted to be confident of using a splitter without having problems. If you found a board from the same manufacturer listed at 1 amp, then I'd bet your board has that too. Let's see if I can nail that down though(this is what I found, https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?99795-Asus-z370-f-gaming-fan-headers). So, if I have no issues with my .5 amp fan headers on my z87, do you think...
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well, some of the new mobos have higher amperage 4 pin connectors designed for your AIO/custom loop pumps. Otherwise, .5 amps is pretty standard. Running splitters is not a problem, unless you have really high powered fans(say big ol' delta fans). I run 2 3000rmp Noctua industrial A14s off one of my PWM headers with no issues whatsoever. Get good splitters and you'll have no issues. The bios is, imo, the best way to control your system fans.
 
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Thanks a lot I just plan on using the case fans that came with my case which is a Rosewill Nighthawk 117. Or these ARCTIC F12 - 120 mm which get 74 CFM @1300 rpm. What MOBO do you have? And that didn't exactly answer my question about how much the amp is on MOBO fan headers are. And u say buy good splitters what do you recommend?
 
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Ok, I'll work your questions 1 by 1. I have several boards, but the one in my main machine(the machine you can see if you click on the AC-130) is a z87 xpower MSI board. The standard amperage, on boards when I went investigating the amperage(your board might in fact have 1 amp PWM 4 pin fan connectors) several years back was .5 amps. See I too wanted to be confident of using a splitter without having problems. If you found a board from the same manufacturer listed at 1 amp, then I'd bet your board has that too. Let's see if I can nail that down though(this is what I found, https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?99795-Asus-z370-f-gaming-fan-headers). So, if I have no issues with my .5 amp fan headers on my z87, do you think you'll have any issues with your 1 amp fan headers? 😉
As to good ones, I have both Noctua splitters(came with my fans), and I have both 2 way and 3 way splitters made by Silverstone. All are good. I purchased my silverstone splitters from Newegg. Newegg routinely put them on sale, when I was purchasing parts for this machine. As to what they cost now, I've not looked in a long time. 2 way(https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026&cm_re=fan_cable_splitter-_-12-162-026-_-Product) and the 3 way(https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162059&cm_re=fan_cable_splitter-_-12-162-059-_-Product) 1 amp is quite a bit. Let's see what my Noctua's use....max usage, as listed by their website is .55 amps. They're some of the most powerful fans currently on the market, so anything you use will almost certainly use less. For comparisons sake, I looked up the standard Noctua A14, which I also have in my system, and they use a measly .14 amps. Your Artic fans(https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/f12.html) use .24 amps. You're well within the safe margin using those artic fans.
 
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Solution
Thanks i really appreciate it and the guy on that Asus forum said his was 2A so I think I'll be good!
I posted this on another category on this forum but haven't gotten a response so I hope u might be able to help.

I just purchased all the components for my new build here is my list.

Rosewill Nighthawk 117 Case
I7-8700k 
Corsair h100i v2
ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-H GAMING LGA1151
G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3000 mhz Intel z170 platform 
ROSEWILL Gaming 80 Plus Gold 650W Power Supply 
Using my old GPU 
GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GeForce GTX 960 128-Bit

3 questions 
1. Is the Rosewill PSU a good PSU?
2. Will the G.Skill z170 platform ram work for my z370 MOBO? 
3. Will my graphics card preform ok on most games? I'm not a big gamer but trying to get into them been playing Warface on my laptop
 
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Will answer your questions to my best.
1) Don't know atm, but I'm going to to do a little digging here. This link is my go to on PSUs(http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html), the issue is which exact model you've got. If you've got a Capstone or Photon series, which is what Neweggs website(https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007657%2050002177%20600037998%20600479295) has listed with the specs you've got, then you've got a tier 2(captstone) or a tier 3(Photon), which is ok. Tier 3 is the very lowest I'd ever consider for a new build, tier 2 is obviously better. Your psu will work for your build, just keep in mind that if you add a more powerful graphics card later, when prices subside, you might need to replace that PSU with a higher powered very high quality unit. But if you do that, keep that PSU you have now, so long as it's not having any problems, as a backup.
2) G. Skill is one of the big names, they've worked with all the big mobo manufactures to ensure compatibility. You'll have no issues with that ram. Once you get your system up and running, you can return to the forums for help on system tweaking and ram speeds and timings.
3)As to your graphics card. It will run modern titles at 1080P. It will require lower settings on 1440. So long as you're not looking for huge frame rates, you'll be fine at 1080P. It was a smart to use that old GPU as the current generation cards are outrageously priced at the moment. :) When the prices come down, you can think about about something else.
I enjoy the process of building, so I'm a tad envious of you atm. I hope you have fun and everything goes together without any major hitches.
 
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Well thanks I very much appreciate the work you put into helping me out and research you've done.
I bought my PSU, MOBO, cpu & AIO off Amazon cuz they had better prices plus I have prime then i bought my ram & case off of newegg cuz they had the case marked down to $68.99 plus i had a $35 off prmo then they had my ram on sale for $165 so my taxes & shipping was $30 so I practically got taxes & shipping free with that promo. And now my case case is marked down from $129 to $109 so I think I got a pretty good deal.
But my PSU is a Capstone tho it was $15 cheaper on Amazon too. Now you say my Capstone is better than their Phantom series PSU's why are the phantoms more expensive? I figured since it was gold plus certified it was definitely better than most of them bronze ones even if there a little higher watts. My brother got bought a bundle pack from newegg and it had an
AMD Ryzen 5 1600
EVGA GTX 1060 6GB
Asus rog strix b350-f MOBO
G.Skill tridentZ 16gb
And only gave him a EVGA 600 B1 bronze PSU. Which I can't even find on that list u gave me.
But I have one other question that I hope you wouldn't mind helping me with instead of just trashing my old cpu and or power supply. I'll post it below this.
 
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My problem is if i play Warface for maybe 5 to 10 minutes my pc automatically shuts off and i have to wait for a minute for to cool down to turn it back on. If i convert a movie and it takes %40 to %60 cpu usage i watch it grow in temperature up untill it get to like 80°C - 85°C it shuts down. When I bought it back in 2015 I could convert multiple movies, have 10 - 15 tabs open in chrome, YouTube open watching videos and programming and running a emulator for my school work. Well I don't convert movies no more and I tried playing Warface about 6 months ago and found out my pc was getting to hot under load, so I tried converting some movies and couldn't do that either. So there is only 3 things I think it could be but I'm not an expert. Oh and when I first got it I overclocked it to 4.4ghz nothing crazy considering it's a 4.0ghz turbo at 4.2ghz and I ran all the tests and everything to make sure it was stable at the 4.4ghz. I also noticed a little screen showing up in bottom right hand corner in red saying that one of my voltages was to high. Can't remember which one but think it was my VDDA or something. But first sign when stuff started going wrong and over heating I put all the settings back to factory in the bios. And did a fresh install of Windows cuz too much junk from school and everything else on there.
First thought was cpu is shot
2nd. The Aio is working right or has so much dust built up in it.
3rd. The PSU isn't no good any more other people on forums have told me mine is junk and get rid of it cuz of brand.
Here is a list of my components.
DIYPC Skyline-07-R Black/Red ATX Full tower
ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0 AM3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0
AMD FX-8350 Black Edition Vishera 8-Core 4.0 GHz (4.2 GHz Turbo) 125W

CORSAIR Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)
Corsair H80i GT 120mm fans
2 Kingston SSD V300 2.5" 240GB SATA III
BitFenix Recon Fan Controller
RAIDMAX Vampire RX-800GH Continuous 800 Watts ATX12V / EPS12V SLI CrossFire 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular PFC Power Supply Intel Haswell Platform Ready
Hitachi GST Ultrastar 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache
GIGABYTE G1 Gaming GeForce GTX 960 2GB 128-Bit SLI Support
Hitachi GST Ultrastar A7K2000 HUA722010CLA331 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"

Hope you can help me out cuz most of these components are going to my other Lil brother which needs to upgrade his 5 year old AMD FX-6300 computer that was on a budget build of about $450-500 at the time. Thanks again
 
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did you ever reseat the pump and redo the thermal interface grease? and, when you setup your overclock, did you turn the voltage off auto and set it to manual? third, that chip puts out lots of heat, that cooler is marginal when running perfectly.
Start with the thermal grease, pull the pump, clean everything really good. use alcohol and a microfibre, it'll get all the old thermal off really well. Then, with a new tube of thermal grease(that stuff degrades over time) apply your lentil and tighten down the pump as per the instructions. If redoing the thermal grease and reseating the pump solve the temp problem(they almost certainly will, if you haven't already done them), then clear the dust out the case as best you can and come back, we'll work on fixing your overclock.
 
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As to the capstone being cheaper, let's see if the photon is a fully modular unit and the capstone a semi-modular, as that's the easiest explanation. Well, that link I sent from Newegg confirms it, the capstone is semi-modular and the photon is a fully modular. I'd rather have the Capstone myself.
That EVGA b series is not one of the good ones. If your brother hasn't already installed it, I'd recommend selling it and getting a Corsair CX series.
 
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Ok I'll try the steps you told me to try. I was already on that path to do so anyways a couple of months ago but just never got around to it. So I just bought a new rig cuz my other lil brother needed to upgrade his rig. I actually bought a kit of Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste with ArctiClean 60 ML Kit.
But to answer your question not I haven't reset it yet, and yes when I did my overclocking I did set the voltage to manual. I'm not a complete noobie I've watched hours and hours of videos on how to overlook from Linus, Jays2cents and on and on. And I did my overclocking through the Asus bios messing with the multiplier, all the voltages timing and everything gradually going up just a notch at a time, then testing & testing until I got to 4.4ghz which was my stable point. So you don't think the CPU is shot huh? And if I get it back working I'm not going to overlook it tho. So what about that Raidmax psu have any opinions on that. Cuz the computer still works fine as long as I'm not putting any load to CPU. Yeah I know that FX-8350 is a 125 watt CPU and can get pretty hot. In the rig my lil brother has now he has the FX-6300 would I be better of replacing my 8350 with his 6300 and he is gonna be putting his GPU in my old rig and he has a GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 760 REV2.0 4GB 256-Bit. Which route should I go that will be best for him, his 6300 was bought in 2013 and ran on stock air cooler every since and my 8350 was bought in 2015 on the h80i.
One more question on my h80i gt it is a push/pull rad so should I have air pushing from inside the case out and the other pulling air out from the case to the open environment?
And yeah my lil brother already installed that evga PSU into his rig haven't had any problems out of it yet he can play games for hours on end without any problems and running stock cooler. In case you getting things confused out computers and my lil brother I have 2 lol brother's.

I'm not sure yet if I was to overlook my new rig with the i7-8700k or not its 3.7ghz and turbos to 4.7ghz. Most people I've heard talk about them say you can overclock with the h100i with no problems using software instead of the bios @5.0ghz but I don't know what's your thoughts? And if I pick a solution to my question on here will you still receive notifications or emails if I post something?
 
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1 Amp is standard on todays fan headers unless it's the CPU or CPU optional then you need to refer to your motherboard manual.
Thats 12 watts and most fans use a lot less than that.
 
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Good work on the overclocking, your chip will be fine when you replace the TIM(stuff seems to dry out and stop working in about 2.5-3.5 years of usage, which is where you're at right now. Your symptoms are exactly those of dried/no longer useful TIM.
Stick with that 8350, it's a stronger chip. You'll be able to safely overclock it slightly, again, when you find the temperatures have gone back to normal, with usage. In fact, so long as your temps stay below 80 or so, with the usage you put it through, you can keep increasing, or at least go back to that overclock. Just keep the voltage to a safe level and the temps no higher than 80(it's about 1.4V, if I recall correctly on those AMD chips). Don't worry about your prime95 temps so much(so long as it's stable and the chip doesn't throttle), they're going to be really high, artificially so.
I've overclocked several chips using Intel extreme tuning utility. I like it a fair amount and it's quite easy to use.
The h100 is a good option for those new 6 cores. They require really beefy cooling even running their normal speeds. If you don't overclock it, I would recommend you at least undervolt it. Same principles as overclocking. you're just not tinkering with the clock speeds, only the voltage.
As far as the raidmax PSU, I don't have an opinion one way or the other. Like all unknowns, treat them with kid gloves. Keep the system clean, don't go crazy with overclocks, and if the system does anything hinky(bsods, reboots with no bsod, etc. etc.) then try to recreate the problem and start the normal troubleshooting.
When using an AIO, I like putting the radiator blowing out the case, rather than having it's heat blown into the case, especially with those FX series chips.
 
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Most of the CX series are junk the 450, 550, 650 CXM are decent, the Capstone was based off a Superflower PSU and is good quality.
Thermal paste should last in the 6 year area.
 
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The new cx PSUs are leaps and bounds better than the old. They fall on the tier chart in 2 spot bordering on tier 1. Re-read Tom's review of the new models. Just do a search. You'll find it. Btw, I had the same opinion as you did, until I read the review of the new models.
 
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Since the FX-6300 is a lower voltage chip won't it keep cooler temperatures especially since I'm only using the h80i? But I'm gonna try and use the FX-8350 and since its going to my lil brother who isn't going to keep an eye on temps and stuff I'm not going to overclock it I think it will do just fine for him at regular clock speed, cuz his FX-6300 just him just fine.
About the h80i AIO I think when I first put it together I put the outside fan pushing air in and the inside fan pulling air in. My thought at the time was blowing cold air into the rad would help get the water cooler so when it reaches the CPU it will cool it better. I was thinking about a computer like a car cuz I use to work on & paint cars before my accident and the 2 are very similar in a lot of aspects. But am doing it different this time.
Now with my h100i I plan on putting the fans on top of the rad in the top of the case and that's cuz of linustechtips proving that push vs pull doesn't matter on temp and using pull on top you don't have to worry about removing fans and cleaning the dust out.
Man my GPU runs very smooth and cool I think cuz I've never really used it it much besides like 1 or 2 summers between college and just played need for speed off line which took up hardly no CPU usage and not much GPU usage either. And my 3 fans on my GPU won't even turn on unless it his a certain temp and anytime I played a game I would make sure they were turned to at least %30-%40.
Yeah my lil brother already has his PSU in so I'm not really worried about that corsair PSU unless for some reason my is causing the the spike in temps on the FX-8350.
 
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Thanks a bunch in the process of installing everything right probably gonna be a two day project tho cuz having to test fit the rad to see if I can plug all the wires into the mobo. Just a headache cuz I'm having to tell a computer literate person how to build one so takes a little longer then should. Lol
 
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My mobo only has 2 USB headers and my case front i/o has plus my AIO has a USB that has to be plugged in. Is there a connector that I can piggyback both of my USB front i/o USB wires and plug it in to my mobo? My case has 4 USB 2.0 and there is 2 wires that plug in. I'm either gonna only two USB's or can my AIO plug in somewhere else?
 
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