Motherboard Fanheader amperage

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lgoodwn12

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Dec 25, 2014
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I have an ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-H GAMING LGA1151 MOBO and I was wondering if it had 1amp fan headers on the MOBO or not? For I can run a splitter and run two fan on 1 fan header of the MOBO for I can control it by software. I know the ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GAMING LGA1151 has 1amp but couldn't find anything out there for my MOBO.
 
Solution
Ok, I'll work your questions 1 by 1. I have several boards, but the one in my main machine(the machine you can see if you click on the AC-130) is a z87 xpower MSI board. The standard amperage, on boards when I went investigating the amperage(your board might in fact have 1 amp PWM 4 pin fan connectors) several years back was .5 amps. See I too wanted to be confident of using a splitter without having problems. If you found a board from the same manufacturer listed at 1 amp, then I'd bet your board has that too. Let's see if I can nail that down though(this is what I found, https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?99795-Asus-z370-f-gaming-fan-headers). So, if I have no issues with my .5 amp fan headers on my z87, do you think...
your AIO plugin is for the corsair link, I believe. really comes down to whether you want to be able to use the corsair link. I think it controls fans speeds, radiator pump speeds and the LED on the pump. It's up to you whether you use it, it's not required, you can plug the fans and the radiator pump into your mobo and control them with the bios. I've never used a Corsair AIO, I've used several other brands, but none use anything like the corsair link.
I don't think there's a USB header splitter, but we'll have to take a brief look. My newegg search wasn't finding what I believe you're looking for(https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=-1&IsNodeId=1&Description=usb%20header%20splitter&page=1&bop=And&PageSize=36&order=BESTMATCH). All I found really was usb hubs.
 
Yeah I know that cord is for the corsair link software and I want to use it cuz it's very helpful all depending on what type of tasks your doing you can setup different profiles with the fans spinning at certain speeds and the pump moving water through the block and radiator. They have a quiet, balanced & performance modes. I was just wondering if my mobo can handle 2 USB cords that's 4 USB ports in one USB header and able to read correctly? I also have a serial port connector (COM) port that has the same (10-1 pin) connection can the USB be plugged in there?
 
The com port is a different deal, don't plug USB header cables into it. Front panel usb is nice, but are you going to need more than 2(joystick/gamepad and maybe a headset?)? Figure out what you'll need and then think about the corsair link and how that plays into what you're shooting for in terms of usage.
 
Here is what I posted on another forum on tomshardware
have an ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-H GAMING LGA1151 motherboard, a Corsair h100i v2 and Rosewill Nighthawk 117. Well my MOBO only has 2 USB 2.0 & a serial port connector (10-1 COM) headers on it and my case has 4 USB 2.0 on the front i/o with 2 cords that plug into the MOBO. My h100i also has a USB cord that needs to be plugged in. Can I plug one of the USB cords either from the h100i or the front i/o plugs into the COM header on the MOBO? Or is there a splitter that I can plug both of front i/o USB plugs from my case into one USB 2.0 header on the MOBO.
But I'm not using the COM port for anything my corsair link is plugged into one of the USB headers and one of my front i/o case USB 2.0 is plugged into the other. I'm trying to find a splitter 2 to 1 USB to plug into from my front i/o USB 2.0 to MOBO USB 2.0 header. One guy suggested this but it's not exactly what I'm looking for.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-AC-IUSBH-M1-Internal-Connectors-External/dp/B01IFGFTJ2
 
That might work. I don't have any experience with something like this. So how this connects to your usb2.0 headers is something I can only guess at. I'm betting that white connector is what you mate to your mobo header. More i think about it, this is exactly what you need.
 
Well I got my computer up and running dudmont and finally got win 10 put on it after hours of work for some reason I couldn't get it to work in raid and I have 2 240gb Kingston sv300 ssd's and everytime i would try to install and load the raid controller it still wouldn't work but I called asus customer support and it just all of a sudden worked with out a raid controller made me feel like an ass. Lol But right now with my corsair link software on balanced mode my CPU runs about °27 - °30C on idle and ran a game for a couple of hours and it was up in like the 40's maybe and I have it stock right now no overclocking I haven't stress tested it yet to see how it does tho. Most of the time I keep an eye on everything using Aida64 but for some reason it says "This computer has an unknown motherboard" and the current version of AIDA64 does not fully support your system. And I have the latest version that I could torrent and all my chipset drives are installed. Didn't you say a good software to overclock with was "Intel Extreme Tuning Utility"? And if I'm not gonna overclock it why did you say I should under volt it and how?
 
Ok, you remember how to overclock your 8350? It's the same principle as overclocking, except you're leaving your clock rates the same. You'll take your voltage off auto and put it on manual. Before you do that, you need to get an idea of what's the top voltage it's sucking up while on auto voltage.
I use coretemp to monitor my cpu(it monitors temps, usuage, and voltage). Once you know what the cpu is using on auto voltage, then when you put it in manual mode, you'll start your voltage at that high point(say 1.25V as a for instance). At that point, you'll start doing the Prime95 runs to test. Keep lowering the voltage after each successful test until the system crashes. Then add back a little voltage and retest for stability. If during normal usage after that, the system BSODs or crashes unexplainedly, then add a touch more voltage. Same basic principles.
Now, your temps are of no concern, so, if you're comfy with it, you could certainly do some overclocking, so long as your voltages numbers are in the safe zone for coffee lake(I don't know what max safe long term voltage for coffee lake, I know for Haswell it's 1.3 volts). Hope that new system kicks all the butt you need. It sounds like a nice one. :)
P.S. I use XTU for overclocking in Windows. I seem to recall that XTU now makes the changes while Windows is active, rather than waiting for the next reboot. It should speed up the process of Undervolting or overclocking. And, as a bonus, it will change your bios settings to the match the changes you make. Using your save bios function, you can keep saving and overwriting in your bios after each successful Prime95 run.
 
Let me ask you a question, what is the purpose to undervolt my CPU? Is it to get the temperature down even lower or what? I know in overclocking the CPU needs more voltage to perform but not understanding how it will help to undervolt it.
 
It's good for 3 things. Extending the life of the chip(not that big a deal, really. Although, if you look at the cpu hierarchy chart, cpus that are quite old are still effective, so you might end up using this cpu for a long time, http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cpu-hierarchy,4312.html) Running cooler(this chip puts out loads of heat, you have a cooler that can handle it, but why not run as cool as possible? it also extends the life of the chip, makes life easier on your AIO, and will save you a few cents on the power bill). Lastly, undervolting is a great place to start your overclocking, when/if you decide to go that route at a later date.
It's not absolutely necessary, but there's good reasons for doing it. Plus, if you're like me, and you like tinkering with the computer to maximize performance, then it's quite fun to do.