hiimyourfriend :
aquielisunari :
hiimyourfriend :
aquielisunari :
hiimyourfriend :
Hello, so I saw this MSI GTX 1080 Armor post pricing at 619 dollar. Is it worth, I'm pretty sure it's cheap? I heard that there is no backplate and etc. Is it bad? or should I buy other types/brands or go for 1080ti's?
What I want to know the most..
I stream and play PUBG/RUST/ etc, will it be able to handle all these apps?frame rates? and will the temps be okay? and about the overclock too.
The least expensive card was the GIgabyte G1 or Windforce which was priced at $499. I don't remember the Armor's price but it shouldn't have been too much more than that. It may have been $550. I'm not sure. At $619 it's still well over MSRP.
The 1080 can handle it but I can't say any thing about your PC's ability.
It isn't bad not to have a backplate. They normally offer a little more rigidity. I had a 970 FTW for a couple years and never had or needed a backblate. My 1080 Ti has one but it also has an integrated AIO liquid cooling system for the GPU.
Imo that's one of the better 1080's. I was going to buy that card but ultimately I decided on EVGA's 1080 Ti FTW3 Hybrid because of its performance and superior cooling.
Frame rates? Without the rest of the PC I can only say frame rates should be over 60. I don't know your monitor or its refresh rate...
If the card isn't sent broken, the temps. should be okay. With
MSI AB users can change the fan curve to better suit their needs.
Overclocks aren't guaranteed and vary with the card. Two MSI Armor 1080 cards will OC differently. Will the OC help or will it just add to screen tearing? Idk.
What about MSI's Duke series? I just realized that such thing existed after watching a vid on youtube. What are your thoughts? Better than getting the Armor?
At the same price point I would choose the Duke easily.
You don't want your GPU any higher than 75. While 75-90 won't damage the chip during extended use it will start to thermal throttle which means lost performance.
99% going with Duke. Any common issues? like dying all of sudden? I saw some reviews and it was horrifying such as dying all of sudden, failure, thermal issues, black screen and etc on newegg, now I'm afraid that there will be issues happening to myself. Is this just a rare case?
and about coil whine, is it common among these cards?
Compatibility, will micro ATX do the job? do rams matter? ( I got one 8gb stick )
Price - on newegg Duke is 679 and Gaming is 699... Decisions please
I just want to make sure before I purchase, as you should probably know that I'm a paranoid
😀
From what I've seen it's been well received. Did you see the first most helpful customer review on Amazon?
This is a good, solid performing graphics card that provides an outstanding value for the price. However, please be aware that the default fan curve behavior is problematic and may result in your card not working to its true potential (easily fixable and I’ll outline what to do below). Yes, you can get a more flashy GTX 1070Ti at this price, but at the end of the day, the MSI GTX 1080 is still a superior performer across the board versus it’s younger sibling. It also handily beats Vega 64 in most games, even if prices were equal at the moment (which they’re not). With a decent aftermarket case, you've got better thermal and performance potential with a traditional heatsink/fans versus a blower-style (Founder's Edition) style cooler.
If you’re looking for rock solid HD and 1440p (2K) performance, this card will deliver. (It also reportedly benchmarks respectably in 4K also, but my monitor is only 1440p, so I can’t comment there.) If you’re interested, I have basic benchmarks/technical stats at the bottom.
As some folks have mentioned, the card does tend to run hot out of the box and can thermal throttle at the DEFAULT settings, even with a well-ventilated case. Ive seen some criticism of the radiator design/fans allegedly not being sufficient for the card. A lot of this is based on confusion from the 1080Ti Armor edition reviews, which is a COMPLETELY different card (250TDP vs 180TDP – the 1080Ti draws more power, and therefore generates more heat). This same cooler was also used with the GTX 980Ti which does have a similar power/thermal footprint to the 1080Ti, so theoretically, criticism here may be overblown. All things considered, the GTX 1080 inherently runs cooler, so this cooler should technically be "overkill." In my experience, this cooling setup actually does a good job of with this GTX 1080 card and even offers overclocking headroom to spare if you’re into that kind of thing.
Some recommendations to get the most out of this card:
1. Double-check your case fan placement. I have two 140MM intake fans on the front, one 140MM exhaust on the back, and two 140MM exhaust fans on the top. Originally, I had the two top fans set to intake. I assumed that getting positive pressure in my case would promote pushing air past the video card, out of the case. However, I got a good 5 degrees C temp decrease by changing the top fans to exhaust instead. Heat rises? Who would have thunk.
2. I highly recommend downloading the MSI Afterburner utility from MSI’s website even if you don’t intend on overclocking. Why? My main gripe with this card comes down to the default fan curve. Out of the box, this card idles the fan at 50 degrees C or lower, and DOESN’T RUN THE FANS AT FULL POWER UNTIL THE CARD HITS 90 DEGREES C. GTX 1080 cards are set to thermal throttle at 83 degrees or higher... See where I’m going with this? If you set a more aggressive fan curve you can completely eliminate the boost clock throttling issues (I’ve got my fans set to 50% @ 50 degrees, 90% at 70, and 100% at 80). The fans run quiet and have hydrodynamic bearings, so running them at full load should not decrease the lifespan significantly. They are also very quiet under full load, so I’m genuinely perplexed why MSI was so conservative with their out-of-the-box tuning here.
Another minor nitpick is the lack of a back plate - but that's COMPLETELY cosmetic. Backplates do not provide any thermal benefits, they are 100% for show. Card sag is an urban legend made up to sell you hunks of aluminum. It also lacks bells and whistles like RGB lighting or fan headers, but that's a reasonable compromise for the price point. If you're buying this card, you're buying it for the performance. The black and white aesthetic is minimalist and looks pretty darn classy. It's not flashy, but you're planning to be looking at the screen, not at your chassis, right?
Technical Details:
Tests done with my custom fan curve setup:
0% @ <50 degrees C
50% @ 50 degrees C
90% at 70 degrees C
100% at <80 degrees C
Stock Settings (Factory overclocked versus reference GTX 1080, and I got better than advertised speeds)
Boost Clock 1961Mhz, Memory 5005 Mhz(x2)
Ambient Temp: 70F/21C
Card idles at 39C, Under full load peaks at 64
Unigine Heaven @ Ultra Quality/Extreme Tessellation/1440p – 28.9 FPS Min, 136.3 Max, 62 Avg
Overclocked Settings - Boost Clock 2050 Mhz, Memory 5404 Mhz (x2)
Core Voltage +75
Power Limit 120
Temp Limit 83
Core Clock +91
Mem Clock +400
Ambient Temp: 70F/21C
Card idles at 39C, Under full load peaks at 70C (During extended gaming, can vouch that temp never goes above 75C)
Unigine Heaven @ Ultra Quality/Extreme Tessellation/1440p – 32.8 FPS Min, 150.3 Max, 66.8 Avg
But are you sure you asked about everything? How will you know how hot your card is? Are you familiar with
MSI AB? You can also adjust your fans with that utility.
Duke!
That is a LOT of helpful information including ways to address cooling issues and ways to avoid them.
Unfortunately I see 90% fan speed BUT there are 3 fans which can move the same amount of air as two but with less noise.
More often than not there isn't coil whine but in some rare cases there has been and if there is you can RMA the card. I called EVGA before I purchased my 970 so I could get more familiar with the warranty process. Notice I called before I purchased the card. I don't want any surprises and their 14 day registration window can be overlooked. An informed purchase helps. The inflated pricing doesn't.
A modern Micro ATX board with a PCIe 3.0 x 16 slot will handle it just fine. v2.0 will also support it.
RAM matters. It will be a dual channel board with 2 slots if you go the micro-atx route. It's best to fill both slots. Their effective speed is cut in half and there is a FPS penalty. The penalty isn't that big but going into a build I'd install 2 x 8GB or 2 x 4GB purchased in a RAM kit. Kits are guaranteed to be compatible with each other. Two modules is also what the motherboard manufacturer recommends. To be clear that stick you have might work. I've no clue what the board will accept. In short, do it right the first time through.
Facebook
Twitter
Instagram