Question Msi GTX 980ti SeaHawk fan/pump won’t turn on

Belmoto

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Jul 22, 2016
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Hello everyone,

Lately I have been cleaning my pc and doing the regular maintenance for the GPU, cleaning, changing AIO liquid. I ran into a small problem, accidentally the pump pwr wire detached from the main pcb of the pump, I soldered it (I know how to solder and did it multiple times before) the pump was working fine when I connected it to the psu,
Now after I reassembled the gpu again, nor pump or the vram fan work, tried to hard wire them from a molex directly, the pump works just fine while the fan isn’t,
Idk what to do next

checked my GPU Pcb and nothing seems odd or unusual, tried to check everywhere if I accidentally damaged the gpu but everything seems perfect.
idk what to do and I’m kinda frustrated cuz I ran out of ideas
 
changing AIO liquid.
Em, the point of an AIO is that you don't need to break open the loop, it's an all-in-one, closed loop cooler. Perhaps your tampering has introduced an air bubble(cavitation) or worse, some bacterial growth impeding the flow of coolant due to a build up in the fin array on the block(or even inside the radiator).
 
changing AIO liquid.
Em, the point of an AIO is that you don't need to break open the loop, it's an all-in-one, closed loop cooler. Perhaps your tampering has introduced an air bubble(cavitation) or worse, some bacterial growth impeding the flow of coolant due to a build up in the fin array on the block(or even inside the radiator).
Dude, it’s been almost 7 years since it came out, I needed to change it cuz there was a lot of bubbles, and I already changed my cpu AIO cooler and everything works normal
Even the gpu the pump works perfectly fine when plugged directly to the PSU with No cracklings or anything.
my problem isn’t why I changed the liquid it is why it doesn’t work on my gpu

EDIT: I used EK liquid coolant and did all the precautions, I’m not afraid of bacterial growth, it’s just the pwr to it from the gpu which concerns me
 
I (still)own a Corsair H50 AIO, the first AIO ever released by Corsair and was Asetek's first foray into the consumer market before they bought out CoolIt and before Asetek became who they are at this moment of time. I decommissioned the AIO about 6 months ago but it still works wonders, without the need to tear it down to it's core. I bought two and one of which was used for the mod I did on it and the subsequent Closed Loop Cooler section that I wrote up for the watercooling sticky in my sig.

That being said, without any images of your soldering job and the entire GPU PCB(back and front), we're left guessing what might've gone wrong. Like I've stated earlier, a prior impedance and or clog would've damaged the pump's flow or your soldering work might've knocked something out that's responsible for managing the things you're worried about.
 
I (still)own a Corsair H50 AIO, the first AIO ever released by Corsair and was Asetek's first foray into the consumer market before they bought out CoolIt and before Asetek became who they are at this moment of time. I decommissioned the AIO about 6 months ago but it still works wonders, without the need to tear it down to it's core. I bought two and one of which was used for the mod I did on it and the subsequent Closed Loop Cooler section that I wrote up for the watercooling sticky in my sig.

That being said, without any images of your soldering job and the entire GPU PCB(back and front), we're left guessing what might've gone wrong. Like I've stated earlier, a prior impedance and or clog would've damaged the pump's flow or your soldering work might've knocked something out that's responsible for managing the things you're worried about.
If something has clogged the pump or made it faulty then it won’t turn on when I wire it directly to the PSU.

HERE’s the BACK of the PCB
View: https://imgur.com/a/an17FWS


FRONT : View: https://imgur.com/a/iV2Pk8Y