Multiple RGB chassis fans for use with AURA SYNC MB is it possible?

[fortheandros]

Hello, i got
https://www.thermaltake.com/Chassis/Mid_Tower_/_/C_00003218/Versa_H26_Tempered_Glass_Edition/design.htm
and
5x http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/masterfan-pro-120-ab-rgb/
which I want to use 2x top, 2x front and 1x back.
I`m thinking of buying the MB https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/overview/ in addition to http://www.deepcool.com/product/cpucooler/2017-06/7_6732.shtml for the Ryzen CPU
Here are my questions:
1. Can I use the AURA SYNC feature with all 5 coolers? since the MB has only 2 x Chassis Fan connector(s) (2 x 4 -pin) [and the 1 x CPU Fan connector(s) (1 x 4 -pin) for the CPU cooler]
2. Do I actually need them to connect to the 1 x Aura RGB Strip Header? for the synchronization? Are they compatible or different connectors or are they 2 completely different things?
3. Since MB specification doesn't say "RGB" in the fan connector, does the RGB feature from the CPU FAN actually work?
4. Does the AURA RGB feature work by just coupling the chassis fans to the 2 x Chassis Fan connector(s)? (eventually using 2x http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cooling-accessories/1-to-3-rgb-splitter-cable/ for all 5)

 

[Aeacus]

Q&A:
1. In short: Sort of. (Full explanation in 4th answer.)
Do note that CPU_FAN, CHA_FAN1/2 headers are only to power the fan and control fan RPM. Those headers doesn't control RGB LEDs.

2. Since you have 5x case fans + 1x fan on CPU cooler all supporting Aura Sync and if you want to sync all the LEDs, you need to connect them all to the RGB header.

3. Read answer #1.

4. While you can use CM's 3-way RGB splitter to connect several fans to single header, you have 6x fans in total and only 1x RGB header. Connecting that many fans to single RGB header most likely overloads RGB header and fries it (and possibly bricks your entire MoBo as well).

Though, all hope isn't lost and to get your system working as needed, you need to get a MoBo that has 2x RGB headers, like Asus ROG STRIX X370-F Gaming,
specs: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-X370-F-GAMING
Also, X370-F Gaming doesn't cost much more than your current X370-Pro
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/qMdFf7,B698TW/

With X370-F Gaming and it's 2x RGB headers, you can connect your 6x fans as follows:
1st RGB header - CM's 3-way RGB splitter - 3x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fans
2nd RGB header - CM's 3-way RGB splitter - 2x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fans + 1x Deepcool Gammax GT RGB fan

This way, you'd have 3x fans per 1x RGB header while you can control them all from Aura Sync and sync them as well.

Also, better MoBo has more fan connectors and you can set up fan power delivery as follows:
CPU_FAN - Deepcool Gammax GT RGB fan
CHA_FAN1 - Y-splitter - 2x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fans
CHA_FAN2 - Y-splitter - 2x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fans
CHA_FAN3 - 1x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fan
Y-splitter at amazon (2x in the box): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-SYC1-Accessory-4-pin-Y-Cables/dp/B00KG8K5CY
or
CPU_FAN - Deepcool Gammax GT RGB fan
CPU_OPT - 1x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fan
CHA_FAN1 - 1x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fan
CHA_FAN2 - 1x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fan
CHA_FAN3 - 1x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fan
AIO_PUMP - 1x CM 120 Air Balance RGB fan

 

[fortheandros]

Thank you for the answer,

U're right, the X370-F Gaming is better and the price isn't much higher. Initially I chose the PRIME X370-PRO because it has a RGB light down left which makes the system more lit up (up - 2x chassis fans, left as in back - the chassis fan, middle up - CPU fan and RAM, right - 2x chassis fans, middle - GPU) and it makes the light distribution somewhat equal. Most GPU with an acceptable price don't have RGB fans and RGB led (on top) but I chose to get https://www.asus.com/us/ROG-Republic-Of-Gamers/ROG-STRIX-GTX1060-O6G-GAMING/ with fan leds and don't know how much the down part is lit.

If Gigabyte would have a NVIDIA GPU at an acceptable price (available in my country) with lit fans, like the EXTREME editions then a Gygabyte configuration would be better since MoBo from them would be more lit up (RGB from their MB's look good with strips, leds).

Anyway, with the current configuration plan (PRIME X370-PRO), acording to https://www.asus.com/campaign/aura/us/Partners-and-promotions.html by getting a controller or control panel/card and probably additional splitters then AURA SYNC is possible (according to another thread), right?

Update: Just ordered TT Sync Controller TT Premium Edition

 

[Aeacus]

With TT Sync Controller TT Premium Edition, you'll need to use Thermaltake products as well since it has proprietary connectors. Also, from it's specs page:

*The max. rated current of the SATA port is 5A. To avoid causing damage to the port, the TT Sync Controller is allowed to be connected with:
1. Up to 4 Riing Trio fans while adding other PLUS series products.
or.
2. Up to 5 Riing Trio fans without connecting other PLUS series products.

source: https://www.thermaltake.com/Cooler/Cooling_Accessory_/Fan_Controller/C_00003143/TT_Sync_Controller_TT_Premium_Edition/design.htm

This would leave your Deepcool CPU cooler out of the loop, unless you go with TT Pacific/ Floe Riing RGB series AIOs for CPU cooling.

As far as that Asus GPU goes, it lits up like this,
GIF:

 

[fortheandros]

With TT Sync Controller TT Premium Edition, you'll need to use Thermaltake products as well since it has proprietary connectors.

Ah, ok, thanks, could cancel the order , since the chassis fans cannot change.

Then I guess the X370-F Gaming remains, or some other controller? or maybe Gigabyte system (if the GTX 1060 Xtreme becomes available here), even though I didn't find anything on the net that it supports "Rainbow" RGB feature/setting which seems the best

 

[Aeacus]

All RGB controllers that support Aura Sync, Mystic Light, RGB Fusion etc also have proprietary output connectors. Though, one of the most versatile is Silverstone's RGB controller since it's one of the very few who also supports Biostar Racing RGB,
specs: https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=729&area=en

There is no universal RGB controller that would support multiple MoBo RGB solutions (MSI, EVGA, Asus, Gigabyte etc) while having standard 4-pin RGB header as output connector. Only ones that exist are splitters, either 3-way (Cooler Master) or 4-way (Akasa).

Closest you can get for RGB control is Akasa Vegas contol card,
specs: http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Gaming&type_sub=RGB%20LED%20Lighting&model=AK-RLD-02

But since it's control card and not control box, only place where to put it is into any free PCI slot on your case (which can ruin the build looks since it's at visible place with all the wiring going to it).

 

[fortheandros]

Interesting, Gigabyte doesn't have Mobos for AMD that have 2x RGB headers.

So the solution (from your first answer) would be to get Mobo with 2x RGB headers and for each to get a splitter to connect all fans. So any of the following MB's would be good (for a Ryzen gaming PC)?
(price ascending)
Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING
Asus ROG STRIX X370-F GAMING
Asus PRIME X470-PRO
Asus ROG CROSSHAIR VI HERO (WI-FI AC)

 

[Aeacus]

All 4x Asus MoBos you listed have 2x RGB headers and the same wiring method works with them as with Asus X370-F Gaming.

Though, if you plan to use 2nd gen Ryzen CPU (e.g R5 2600) then do note that X370 chipset MoBos (Asus ROG STRIX X370-F GAMING and Asus ROG CROSSHAIR VI HERO (WI-FI AC)) need to have latest BIOS for Ryzen 2nd gen CPU to work in them.

As far as which MoBo to pick, that depends on the features each MoBo has that you'll need/want. E.g:
* if you need wi-fi and don't want to buy PCI-E x1 wi-fi card then MoBo with built-in wi-fi would suit the best (Asus ROG CROSSHAIR VI HERO (WI-FI AC))
* if your build theme is white or white/black then MoBo that shares the color theme would suit the most (Asus PRIME X470-PRO)
* if you want to save money for other components then cheapest of the 4 would do the best (Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING)
* if you plan to run 2-way SLI with Nvidia GPUs, then you'll need MoBo that supports 2-way SLI (Asus ROG STRIX X370-F GAMING)
etc. You'll get the point, right?

 

[fortheandros]

Thank for all the answers, I`ll think i`ll go with Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING or Asus PRIME X470-PRO (depending on the $ as the PSU needs some deciding)

 

[Aeacus]

There's not much to decide regarding PSUs. For brands, you can't go wrong with Seasonic, regardless which model you pick (e.g Focus, Focus+, PRIME etc).
As far as wattage goes, any PC with single GPU doesn't need bigger than 650W PSU. Also, 650W PSU comes to play when you have GTX 1070 Ti and above GPU. For GTX 1070 and below GPU, 550W PSU is more than enough. Though that's from Nvidia side. For AMD (Radeon) side, 650W PSU is preferred if you go with RX 580 since that one is 185W GPU (5W more than GTX 1080), making Radeon GPUs very inefficient compared to the Nvidia GPUs.

To put it short:
* if GPU TDP is up to 150W, 550W PSU is more than enough.
* if GPU TDP is over 150W, 650W PSU is more than enough.

After i wrote all the above text, i found out that you secretly linked your PSU deciding topic into your last reply. Did read it and only "RGB" PSU that i'd look towards is the same Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 650W Gold (RGB Sync Edition) you brought up in your topic,
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/Power_Supply/Toughpower_Series_/Toughpower_Grand/C_00003253/Thermaltake_Toughpower_Grand_RGB_650W_Gold_RGB_Sync_Edition_/design.htm
review of 750W unit in the same series: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=499

Though, since your Thermaltake Versa H26 TG case has PSU shroud which hides your PSU almost completely, is it good idea to buy "RGB" PSU?
Also, price wise, that "RGB" PSU isn't that expensive,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/qZKhP6,v4L7YJ,bkp323,KmgzK8/

If you want to see expensive PSU, look towards Seasonic PRIME 650 80+ Titanium which also happens to power my Skylake build,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nn648d/seasonic-prime-650w-80-titanium-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-650td
Then again, PRIME 650 80+ Titanium is the best 650W PSU money can buy at current date.

Though, keep in mind that PSU is the most important component inside the PC since it powers everything and if you want to buy cheap and good PSU, you'll need to buy 2x PSUs, 1st the cheap one and 2nd the good one.

Oh, one last thing. Out of 4 major HDD manufacturers: Seagate, Western Digital, Toshiba and HGST (Hitachi); Seagate drives have the worst reliability and i, personally, wouldn't buy any Seagate HDD. WD HDDs are most widespread with solid performance and they also have good reliability. For example, i have 3x WD Blue 1TB HDDs (WD10EZEX) in use between my Skylake and Haswell builds. Though, HGST drives are the best when it comes down to HDD reliability.
Comparison too, between Seagate Barracuda 1TB and WD Blue 1TB,
link: http://hdd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Seagate-Barracuda-1TB-2016-vs-WD-Blue-1TB-2012/3896vs1779

 

[fortheandros]

There's not much to decide regarding PSUs. For brands, you can't go wrong with Seasonic, regardless which model you pick (e.g Focus, Focus+, PRIME etc).
As far as wattage goes, any PC with single GPU doesn't need bigger than 650W PSU. Also, 650W PSU comes to play when you have GTX 1070 Ti and above GPU. For GTX 1070 and below GPU, 550W PSU is more than enough. Though that's from Nvidia side. For AMD (Radeon) side, 650W PSU is preferred if you go with RX 580 since that one is 185W GPU (5W more than GTX 1080), making Radeon GPUs very inefficient compared to the Nvidia GPUs.

To put it short:
* if GPU TDP is up to 150W, 550W PSU is more than enough.
* if GPU TDP is over 150W, 650W PSU is more than enough.

Thanks, I also had the GPU in mind, so I went with Nvidia, and chose minimum 650W to be sure.

After i wrote all the above text, i found out that you secretly linked your PSU deciding topic into your last reply. Did read it and only "RGB" PSU that i'd look towards is the same Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 650W Gold (RGB Sync Edition) you brought up in your topic,
specs: https://www.thermaltake.com/Power_Supply/Toughpower_Series_/Toughpower_Grand/C_00003253/Thermaltake_Toughpower_Grand_RGB_650W_Gold_RGB_Sync_Edition_/design.htm
review of 750W unit in the same series: http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=499

I also secretly linked the PSU thread with this one (at the MB spec)

Though, since your Thermaltake Versa H26 TG case has PSU shroud which hides your PSU almost completely, is it good idea to buy "RGB" PSU?
Also, price wise, that "RGB" PSU isn't that expensive,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/qZKhP6,v4L7YJ,bkp323,KmgzK8/

I don't know and I don't want to take out PSU from old PC, but it`ll probably look like this. Eventually with fan down will light up under PC. With that "small opening" that Inter-tech Argus (from the other thread) would be nice but if none knows about its quality then I really don't want to try it.

Though, keep in mind that PSU is the most important component inside the PC since it powers everything and if you want to buy cheap and good PSU, you'll need to buy 2x PSUs, 1st the cheap one and 2nd the good one.

Then probably is best to wait and get a good PSU when getting all PC components, especially since the Thermaltake Toughpower RGB Sync Edition (only the normal edition) isn't available in my country yet (e.g. when RGB strips appeared they become available here only after a month, probably). Exception would be if the other PSU's from that thread that have some nice "graphics" at the "small opening" are any good. The white would probably go nice with the Asus PRIME X470-PRO (afterwards change to white RGB RAM etc)

Oh, one last thing. Out of 4 major HDD manufacturers: Seagate, Western Digital, Toshiba and HGST (Hitachi); Seagate drives have the worst reliability and i, personally, wouldn't buy any Seagate HDD. WD HDDs are most widespread with solid performance and they also have good reliability. For example, i have 3x WD Blue 1TB HDDs (WD10EZEX) in use between my Skylake and Haswell builds. Though, HGST drives are the best when it comes down to HDD reliability.
Comparison too, between Seagate Barracuda 1TB and WD Blue 1TB,
link: http://hdd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Seagate-Barracuda-1TB-2016-vs-WD-Blue-1TB-2012/3896vs1779

According to this older thread and this newer thread both are the same somewhat and choices differ in price. There are more threads and people usually voted like this, or this. In short, opinions are spread, so if all HDD have ups and downs I went with the Seagate since it's cheaper (at least in this country). I also had Seagate until now and had no problems with it (currently however I have only a SSD Toshiba 500 GB which i`ll move in the future PC). I have no idea which HDD has better customer support here since if a problem arise i`ll just send back to warranty (with lost data :/)

 

[Aeacus]

I don't know and I don't want to take out PSU from old PC, but it`ll probably look like this. Eventually with fan down will light up under PC. With that "small opening" that Inter-tech Argus (from the other thread) would be nice but if none knows about its quality then I really don't want to try it.

Besides the specs page of that Inter-Tech unit, there's not more in the net to say if it's good or bad PSU. Didn't find any reviews of it and that's a bad sign. PSU's are guilty until proven innocent. And without proper review, that PSU stays guilty.
Also, only PSU that i know of which has RGB and is also good quality is Thermaltake Toughpower RGB and Toughpower RGB Grand series. Other PSUs that i've seen which have fancy appearances are usually crap quality units as well.

Then probably is best to wait and get a good PSU when getting all PC components, especially since the Thermaltake Toughpower RGB Sync Edition (only the normal edition) isn't available in my country yet (e.g. when RGB strips appeared they become available here only after a month, probably). Exception would be if the other PSU's from that thread that have some nice "graphics" at the "small opening" are any good. The white would probably go nice with the Asus PRIME X470-PRO (afterwards change to white RGB RAM etc)

If you want white PSU then Seasonic also offers two such units, SnowSilent and it's successor: PRIME SnowSilent.
SnowSilent 750W review: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Seasonic/Snow_Silent-750/
PRIME SnowSilent 750W 80+ Platinum review: http://tech-legend.com/reviews/seasonic-snow-silent-750w-platinum/
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/LgJkcf,sqPKHx,yJgzK8,dstQzy/

SnowSilent comes with 7 years of warranty while all 3x PRIME SnowSilent PSUs come with 12 years of warranty. Both PSU series are of a great build quality.

Oh, all fully-modular Seasonic PSUs are also compatible with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables.
To match my Skylake's black & red theme and Haswell's black & blue theme, i have replaced the stock black power cables with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables,
cablemod: https://cablemod.com/products/?filter_series=se-series&show_products=48

Cablemod white (link) or black & white (link) power cables would match the SnowSilent PSU perfectly.

According to this older thread and this newer thread both are the same somewhat and choices differ in price. There are more threads and people usually voted like this, or this. In short, opinions are spread, so if all HDD have ups and downs I went with the Seagate since it's cheaper (at least in this country). I also had Seagate until now and had no problems with it (currently however I have only a SSD Toshiba 500 GB which i`ll move in the future PC). I have no idea which HDD has better customer support here since if a problem arise i`ll just send back to warranty (with lost data :/)

What you mostly linked are opinion topics about different HDD manufacturers with few roundup articles as well. E.g in the 1st topic you linked, there's discussion about 500GB drives from WD and Seagate. WD 500GB drives don't fare well and i've had 2x WD Blue 500GB drives died on me after few years (luckily, i was able to save the data on them).

When i'm talking about HDD reliability then i'll use hard data as my source,
link: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-q1-2016/

Though, for consumer drives, and in 1TB in size, HDD manufacturer doesn't make much difference. Manufacturer difference comes to play if you move towards 3TB and up drives.

Oh, when HDD is starting to die, 1st sign is very slow read/write times.
2nd sign is the far longer time it takes to defrag a drive. E.g my WD 500GB with 80% full, took 4 hours to defrag when it was new. When it was on it's last leg, defrag took 58 hours. I'm using MyDefrag v4.3.1 to keep my WD Blue 1TB HDDs healthy,
link: http://mydefrag.en.lo4d.com/
+ guide on how to use it: http://sctech.weebly.com/mydefrag.html
3rd sign is above 90% value of hardware interrupts and DPCs if you use Process Explorer to monitor your system (which i do). On normal operations, my hardware interrupts and DPCs are between 0.7% and 1.2%. Also, Process Explorer is ideal software to see which programs hog your system resources,
link: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/process-explorer
+ guide on how to understand it: https://www.howtogeek.com/school/sysinternals-pro/lesson2/

 

[fortheandros]

Also, only PSU that i know of which has RGB and is also good quality is Thermaltake Toughpower RGB and Toughpower RGB Grand series. Other PSUs that i've seen which have fancy appearances are usually crap quality units as well.

I decided for this for the moment, though I have to wait until the Sync edition is available here aswell

If you want white PSU then Seasonic also offers two such units, SnowSilent and it's successor: PRIME SnowSilent.
SnowSilent 750W review: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Seasonic/Snow_Silent-750/
PRIME SnowSilent 750W 80+ Platinum review: http://tech-legend.com/reviews/seasonic-snow-silent-750w-platinum/
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/LgJkcf,sqPKHx,yJgzK8,dstQzy/

SnowSilent comes with 7 years of warranty while all 3x PRIME SnowSilent PSUs come with 12 years of warranty. Both PSU series are of a great build quality.

I understand about quality but Seasonic is kind of expensive. I ussually buy my stuff from here

Oh, all fully-modular Seasonic PSUs are also compatible with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables.
To match my Skylake's black & red theme and Haswell's black & blue theme, i have replaced the stock black power cables with CableMod SE-series custom sleeved power cables,
cablemod: https://cablemod.com/products/?filter_series=se-series&show_products=48
Cablemod white (link) or black & white (link) power cables would match the SnowSilent PSU perfectly.

N/A here, but according to prices its almost like another PSU, so can't afford ... yet.

What you mostly linked are opinion topics about different HDD manufacturers with few roundup articles as well. E.g in the 1st topic you linked, there's discussion about 500GB drives from WD and Seagate. WD 500GB drives don't fare well and i've had 2x WD Blue 500GB drives died on me after few years (luckily, i was able to save the data on them).

When i'm talking about HDD reliability then i'll use hard data as my source,
link: https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-reliability-stats-q1-2016/

Though, for consumer drives, and in 1TB in size, HDD manufacturer doesn't make much difference. Manufacturer difference comes to play if you move towards 3TB and up drives.

Oh, when HDD is starting to die, 1st sign is very slow read/write times.
2nd sign is the far longer time it takes to defrag a drive. E.g my WD 500GB with 80% full, took 4 hours to defrag when it was new. When it was on it's last leg, defrag took 58 hours. I'm using MyDefrag v4.3.1 to keep my WD Blue 1TB HDDs healthy,
link: http://mydefrag.en.lo4d.com/
+ guide on how to use it: http://sctech.weebly.com/mydefrag.html
3rd sign is above 90% value of hardware interrupts and DPCs if you use Process Explorer to monitor your system (which i do). On normal operations, my hardware interrupts and DPCs are between 0.7% and 1.2%. Also, Process Explorer is ideal software to see which programs hog your system resources,
link: https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/process-explorer
+ guide on how to understand it: https://www.howtogeek.com/school/sysinternals-pro/lesson2/

Then do you have some time to look over this list? I don't want to remain without free space but since other components are pretty expensive can't allocate too much for a HDD.

 

[Aeacus]

In your store, there are plenty of Seasonic units to offer, e.g Focus+ 550 80+ Platinum,
link: http://www.mediadot.ro/surse/sursa-modulara-seasonic-focusplus_-550-550w-80-pluss-platinum-pNSYyPDwo-l/
or if you want more wattage with little added cost and slightly lower efficiency, Focus+ 750 80+ Gold,
link: http://www.mediadot.ro/surse/sursa-modulara-seasonic-focusplus_-750-750w-80-pluss-gold-pNSYyPDwu-l/
there's SnowSilent 750W as well but it also costs accordingly,
link: http://www.mediadot.ro/surse/sursa-modulara-seasonic-p_750-snow-silent-750w-80-pluss-platinum-pNSY3MDUt-l/
cheapest PSU i'd get from your store would be M12II-520 EVO,
link: http://www.mediadot.ro/surse/sursa-modulara-seasonic-m12ii-bronze-evo-edition-520w-pMCc0PTEt-l/

Also, as said above, 500W range PSU is more than enough for your PC. GTX 1060 is 120W GPU and if you add the rest of the system to it at 200W or so, max power consumption you're looking at is 320W, making 500W range unit more than enough.

As far as HDD goes, Toshiba P300 3TB is good one,
link: http://www.mediadot.ro/hard-disk-uri/hdd-toshiba-p300-3tb-7200-rpm-sata3-64mb-pMiU6MzYq-l/
review: https://www.kitguru.net/components/hard-drives/simon-crisp/toshiba-p300-3tb-hdd-review
or if you don't want to spend much on HDD, there's also 1TB version of Toshiba P300,
link: http://www.mediadot.ro/hard-disk-uri/hdd-toshiba-p300-1tb-7200-rpm-sata3-64mb-3.5-inch-pMis6PDYq-l/
Note: you'll get far better price per GB if you go with 3TB drive than 1TB drive (382 Lei vs 213 Lei).

 

[fortheandros]

Thank you for all the help, decided on the 3TB Toshiba HDD, PSU will decide @ the end when I draw the total cost line (e.g. maybe i`ll go with the G.Skill Trident Z instead of XPG as currently they are cheaper)
Update: Lulz, the nvidia gtx 1060 i wanted got sold out, and now the rx580 its cheaper to empty its stock. Anyway, since GPU is also exposed to change, decided on the Seasonic M12II Bronze EVO Edition 620W, maybe even i`ll go for sli or crossfire^^

 

[Aeacus]

Do note that Radeon GPUs are very inefficient compared to the Nvidia GPUs. As said, GTX 1060 is 120W GPU. Same performance RX 580 is 185W GPU. That's 5W more! than GTX 1080 which is 180W GPU.

Also, for gaming, SLI (2x Nvidia GPUs) or Crossfire (2x Radeon GPUs) isn't that helpful and in most times, it hurts the overall performance. Since with 2x GPUs, you'll get double the power consumption from GPUs, double the heat production from GPUs while performance gain at most is 50% IF the game supports SLI/Crossfire. Also, many games don't. SLI/Crossfire is good when you use your PC for production work (e.g 3D or video rendering).

While 620W PSU is more than enough for RX 580, going with 2-way Crossfire, bare minimum you're looking at would be 750W PSU while i'd be comfortable using 850W PSU. Since 2x RX 580 consume about 360W, give or take 20W, with rest of the system at 200W, making the max power consumption around 560W. Overclock your CPU and 2x RX 580 GPUs and you can push the power consumption up to 650W or so.

 

[fortheandros]

OK, so that means IF I get SLI or crossfire (but that idea just died) i'd need a better PSU as well. In truth I never had SLI or crossfire so it's better if I don't
In conclusion, the 620W is enough even if I upgrade/decide for GTX 1070.
10x again.

 

[Aeacus]

Since GTX 1070 is 150W GPU, even 500W range PSU would be enough, making 620W PSU more than enough.

 

[fortheandros]

In the end I got the MB Maximus IX Formula. I'm thinking of coupling the cooler PWM's like this so they are Q-Fan controlled:
CPU cooler: CPU_FAN
Chassis upper fan 1 (left side): CPU_OPT
Chassis upper fan 2 (right side): H_AMP
Chassis back fan: CHA_FAN1
Chassis front fan 1 (up): CHA_FAN2
Chassis front fan 2 (down): CHA_FAN3
Is this OK for a good and controlled airflow and is it no problem to connect to the H-AMP of high voltage (without frying fan)?
This MB has 2 RGB headers but also 2 RGB led strips of 5 pins, are they actually exclusive for strips?

 

[Aeacus]

While MoBo fan headers are rated for 1A @ 12V, H_AMP fan header supports more than 1A @ 12V.

Example: let's take 2x fans; Corsair ML140 Pro LED (140mm, 0.3A @ 12V, specs) and Delta PFC1212DE-F00 (120mm, 4A @ 12V, specs). While you can plug ML140 fan to any header, including H_AMP and it works without issues, you can plug the Delta fan only to the H_AMP header. Plugging Delta fan to any other header besides H_AMP will fry those headers since Delta fan needs 4 times more amps to operate than fan header can provide.

To put it short: H_AMP header can provide more than 1A (amp) for fans, if the fan needs that much amperage. If the fan doesn't need more than 1 amp, fan will work just as well as when it would be connected to e.g CHA_FAN2 header.

As far as LED strips and RGB headers go, according to holy bible of PCs (aka your MoBo manual, page 1-24), those 5-pin headers are proprietary connectors. Meaning that you can only use 5-pin Asus LED strips with it and these LED connectors are for connecting LED strips on MoBo cover and PCH. Though, your MoBo also has 2x 4-pin standard RGB headers (MoBo manual, page 1-29), which you can use to connect other RGB solutions.

With 5x case fans, you'd have more than enough airflow in your PC, where your can control the fans either from BIOS (suggested way) or from software within Win.

 

[fortheandros]

Thanks, so only proprietary RGB LED's strips. Didn't get it from only this text :"LED connectors (5-pin RGB_LED_STRIP1; RGB_LED_STRIP2) These LED connectors are for connecting LED strips on your cover and PCH." ,
since fans are also connected to RGB headerstrips: "AURA RGB headers (4-pin RGB_HEADER1-2) These connectors are for RGB LED strips.The RGB header supports 5050 RGB multi-color LED strips (12V/G/R/B), with a maximum power rating of 2A (12V), and no longer than 2 m."
Thats also partially why I opened this thread as MB manual all say about strips and not fans (and you answered it)

 

[Aeacus]

At current time, i'm not aware that Asus would have RGB fans that support their proprietary 5-pin RGB header, hence why only strips connect to it. As far as 4-pin RGB header goes, that one is universal and lots of RGB solutions (strips, fans, AIOs, cases etc) use that header. Full list here,
link: https://www.asus.com/campaign/aura/us/Partners-and-promotions.html

Note: from RGB Type filter, select "standard RGB" since those use 4-pin RGB header. "Addressable RGB" solutions use 3-pin RGB header which your MoBo doesn't have.