My First Build, is it Good or is it a Bit Much?

[GoodGuessWork]

Hello everyone!

I am looking for some honest opinions on my first PC build. The intentions for this PC is to do streaming and YouTube recording and gaming. I do not want to overclock just because I personally do not like to do it. Here is my parts list:

CPU: Intel i7-7700K 4.2 GHz

Motherboard: MSI Z170A Gaming M7 LGA 1151

GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 DirectX 12 GTX 1070 GAMING X 8G 8GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support ATX Video Card

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 220-G2-0750-XR 80+ GOLD 750W Fully Modular EVGA ECO Mode

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Intel Z170 Platform / Intel X99 Platform Desktop Memory Model F4-2400C15D-16GVR

HDD: WD Black 4TB Performance Desktop Hard Disk Drive - 7200 RPM SATA 6Gb/s 128MB Cache 3.5 Inch - WD4004FZWX

SSD: SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 250GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-75E250B/AM

CPU Cooler: Cryorig H7

CD Reader: ASUS 24X DVD Burner

Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5

Mouse and Keyboard: Cooler Master Devastator II Bundle

Monitor: LG 25UM56-P 25” Class 21:9 UltraWide IPS Gaming Monitor 5ms 2560 x 1080 5ms GTG 60Hz 5,000,000:1 Contrast Ratio with Black Stabilizer and Dynamic Action Link, SRGB Over 99% and 4-Screen Split

My ultimate question is, is this build a bit much for my first PC? I would love to have a good PC, but I also understand the idea of not going to far with a first build. Also, if possible, I would like to bring the price down some if possible, but I like the high GHz i7 processor for the natural high speed and hyperthreading. Right now the price is $1,797.38 getting the parts through NewEgg. I would love any suggestions that could help me in my decision. Thanks!

 

[madmatt30]

You need a z270 board to guarantee compatibility out of the box with a 7700k.
Apart from that its a solid build but way way overspecced for what you want & especially for that monitor - you should honestly look at a better screen with that kind of budget.

a locked 7700 or a ryzen 1600 would be more than adequate & would save you a fortune,the psu is way way overspecced - a 550w g2 is more than enough.

The wd black is monstrously priced at over $200 too.

 

[Isokolon]

it's a good premium build
only your mainboard isn't compatible with the CPU, go for a Z270 board and I'd pick a slightly better cooler, like the Cryorig H5 or a Scythe Mugen
you do not need a 750W PSU, 550W will easily power this build.

if you're looking to save some costs, switch to an AMD Ryzen 1600 (including an AM4 B350 board + 3000 or 3200 MHz RAM). this should lower costs for around 150-200$
do you really need a 4TB HDD?

if the cost is fine with you, this is a fine build.

 

[madmatt30]

Here's a ryzen build with a 27 inch 1440p screen.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($218.58 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($103.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($77.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($389.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master - MasterCase 5 ATX Mid Tower Case ($87.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.89 @ OutletPC)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.69 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: AOC - Q2778VQE 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master - Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1482.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-27 12:22 EDT-0400

 

[GoodGuessWork]

Thanks for the answers so far. I like the recommendations so far. If my CPU is looking too much I will change it, however I know nothing about AMD processors. I have only researched Intel CPUs so that's where I'm comfortable. Also, I picked a 4TB Western Digital HDD because I know western digital has good longevity and because recordings can get very large. Is there a better hard drive for that?

 

[madmatt30]

Ia there a better drive than the WD black ??

No probably not , its just inordinately expensive though.

For that same total budget you could up the ssd to a 500gb model & buy 2 of those Toshiba 3tb drives.

Youve got loads more space & a backup drive for important files then.

 

[Karadjgne]

Redundancy is a better option. Having multiple hdds limits usage per drive, which extends lifespan. You could use 2x 1Tb drives initially, and expand with need. Keeping multiple drives has benefits as any bugs/issues/errors/viruses etc stand a good chance of not affecting other drives, so data remains safer. If that 4Tb drive dies, you loose everything. If a 1Tb drive dies, you still have the other drives untouched. You could change that to any size hdd, be it 1Tb or 2Tb etc.

 

[madmatt30]

^ that's what I meant ;-)

+ the fact is when recording gameplay you're 100% better having the recording written to a seperate drive to both the os & game install.

No matter how fast a single drive is if its being both read from & written to intensively at the same time it is not going to do as good a job as 2 seperate drives even if they're significantly slower .
The tosh drives are slower than a black but insignificantly so.

 

[Karadjgne]

Ever wonder why cases come with so many hdd bays, there's your answer. Raid setups, multiple drives without partitions, read one drive while recording on another etc. Much better options than a single large drive with multiple partitions. Also cuts down largely on the amount of optimization if you mainly use 1 drive for the recording, with another as storage, kinda like a cache drive where everything goes initially, before moved to more permanent storage. A large drive will see a lot of usage in 1 small area, wearing out the sectors there to a greater extent, while the other partitions see next to nothing. Not a good idea. A cache drive can be tossed after a year or 4 and replaced easily with no data loss.

 

[GoodGuessWork]

If I was to do a raid setup what would be best? I only know the very basics of RAID setups. Also are those Toshiba HDDs reliable?

 

[madmatt30]

Wouldn't bother with raid setup mate , keep the drives seperate .

Os & main apps on ssd (maybe a few games that benefit from the faster load times)
1 platter drive for games , another platter drive as a scratch (recoding/editing drive)

That is of more benefit than any raid setup IMO

The tosh drives for me personally have been fantastic.
Been running 3 of those in one rig & 2 in another for 2 years+

Not a single hitch , fast & quiet - when it comes to 2tb or 3tb drives they're the only ones I'll personally buy now.
Seagates I've had reliability issues in the past , WD blues are 5400rpm apart from the 1tb , the blacks are too expensive.
On a pricepoint ratio they're easily the best buy. 3tb for less than $80 - can't fault them

 

[Karadjgne]

If you think about the shear number of pre-built machines, everything from Apple to Dell or HP, Compaq, Sony, Lenovo etc etc, the amount is staggering. Those pc's don't usually come with WD or Seagate unless specified per model. They'll usually come with Toshiba or Hitachi drives as these don't rely or specialize in hdd products so costs are lower. And no one pulls apart a pre-built for cleaning, so I'd consider that torturous abuse after 6 months, yet the drive usually outlasts the psu. This on top of no ssd, so the hdd sees all data transfers. A Toshiba 3Gb at $80 is a steal compared to WD/Seagate 1Tb at $50 or a 2Tb at $70. The only real difference between WD Black and Blue is warranty and expected service life under duress, the black being higher performance rated, but at least WD makes this easy to understand with their color codes separating areas of specialty.

 

[GoodGuessWork]

Okay, so after some rethinking, and looking at my bills and life crap, that price range isn't going to work for me. I need to bring it down at least a little bit. I would prefer to not go over $1600 and I would like to keep it closer to $1500, peripherals and all. I have got it down a bit but not to where I want it to be. This is what I have now:

CPU: Intel i5-7600K 3.8 GHz Quad-core (Amazon: $229.00)
CPU Cooler: Cryorig H5 Universal Cooler (NewEgg: $46.99)
Motherboard: MSI Z270 Gaming Pro Carbon ATX LGA 1151 (OutletPC: $163.89)
Ram: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2x8GB) DDR4-2400 (NewEgg: $116.99)
SSD: Crucial MX300 275 GB 2.5" SSD (NewEgg: $99.99)
HDD: 2x Toshiba 2TB 7200 RPM (Outlet PC: $62.88 each)
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming 8GB (NewEgg: $389.99)
Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 ATX Mid Tower (NewEgg: $99.99)
PSU: Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze (NewEgg: $44.99)
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer (Outlet PC: $18.69)
OS: Windows 10 Home 64 bit (Best Buy: $92.99)
Monitor: Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz (Best Buy: $182.99)
Keyboard and Mouse: Cooler Master Devastator II keyboard and Mouse (NewEgg: $24.99)

Total: Roughly $1637.25. This number may be off as I overrode some of the prices on PCPartPicker because NewEgg had them cheaper than the options they were showing, so shipping costs may need to be added in there. I am trying to keep the stores i get the parts from to just a few so that way if I have a problem I won't have too hard of a time figuring out who I need to talk to.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/

Any ideas on how I can bring the price down? I could probably change my case, but I want to make sure whatever case I change to is still a mid tower and has good cooling. This one already has 3 fans which is why I like it and it looks sleek. I am open to suggestions, but I would prefer to keep my CPU in the Intel area. It is where I have done the most research and where most of my knowledge sits. I have almost no knowledge on AMD, other than I have heard Intel is better for gaming and recording together. However, if my budget will not fit an Intel CPU, I can change. I still don't want to overclock as I don't like the idea of doing that, plus I heard it can shorten the life of the hardware. Any suggestions would be awesome! If I need to I can start a different thread as well to start fresh.

 

[Isokolon]

Terrible PSU there. The CXM550 is alright, the 600/500/430variants are a completely different platform though and not recommended.

When gaming and recording and editing I strongly discourage going for an i5. It's too limited threadswise, a Ryzen 1600 or 1700 is the way to go there (and still around the same price)

Overclocking can shorten the life of hardware. But realistically only if you're doing it wrong, need to apply higher voltages and go on a hunt for a record.
OC a CPU like the Ryzen 1600 to the levels of the factory OC 1600X (bcs that's basically what AMD is doing, OCing it for you) won't shorten life span at all

I'm on my phone and checking prices is tricky but MSI usually isn't the cheapest option for GPUs

 

[madmatt30]

On the money ;-)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($218.58 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B350 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($92.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Mini Video Card ($334.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Deepcool - KENDOMEN Red ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.69 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: AOC - Q2778VQE 27.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor ($256.14 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Cooler Master - Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1501.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-29 13:17 EDT-0400

 

[GoodGuessWork]

Thanks for the heads up on the PSU. Would you recommend going down to the 550 or finding a different PSU all together?

In terms of going to an AMD Ryzen CPU, like I said I have no idea what I'm doing in that area, so what would I need to change? The motherboard I'm sure, but anything else?

So overclocking the basic Ryzen 1600 to a faster level won't hurt it?

I really like the GPU I have picked especially because I planned on using the ShadowPlay that comes with the graphics card to record PC games. It isn't necessarily the cheapest, but its ratings and reviews are awesome. I can knock down to an MSI 970 I was looking at back before the 1xxx series came out.

 

[GoodGuessWork]

I like the sound of it, but I wonder about the GPU. I haven't read up much on Zotac, and why would I get a mini GPU if I have space for a full one? I understand it is cheaper for sure, but does that effect performance or cooling?

 

[Karadjgne]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($300.59 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M BAZOOKA Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.53 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.53 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($380.89 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($68.98 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.69 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($182.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Cooler Master - CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($28.75 @ Amazon)
Total: $1551.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-29 13:24 EDT-0400

 

[madmatt30]

If you actually look at the card its not really a mini mate.
Its still a 8inch long twin fan model.
Mini is usually reserved for the itx single fan cards , zotac did themselves a dis-service naming it that.

Is it as good as the MSI gaming ?? Probably not , its certainly not $40 worse though.

Go back to the MSI gaming & change the monitor back to the 1080p 144htz & you're well under budget again.

I personally think 1440p 60htz is a better fit for ryzen+1070 though .

The PSU I listed , its the non modular version of the new cxm range , a good psu , if you're not bothered about semi-modular cables it saves you $10-15.

The kendomen - well its a decent made case with a monster amount of preinstalled cooling - nuff said.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor ($218.58 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($103.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($126.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial - MX300 275GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($99.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($62.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($389.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Deepcool - KENDOMEN Red ATX Mid Tower Case ($57.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.69 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($182.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Cooler Master - Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $1494.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-29 13:31 EDT-0400

 

[Isokolon]

No reason to overspend on a MSI GPU:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor ($300.59 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI - B350M BAZOOKA Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SK hynix - SL308 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.53 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($65.53 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Dual Series Video Card ($359.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design - Focus G (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($48.98 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.69 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Monitor: Acer - GN246HL 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($182.99 @ B&H)
Keyboard: Cooler Master - CM Storm Devastator Gaming Bundle Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($28.75 @ Amazon)
Total: $1507.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-29 13:35 EDT-0400

 

[GoodGuessWork]

Hey sorry about the GPU, I see that now lol. But no it seems really good and I would still get Shadowplay so that is awesome. I read some reviews on it real quick as well and everyone seems to love it! I have now been recommended the ryzen 5 1600 and the ryzen 7 1700, and I think I am leaning toward the 1600. Despite doing recording, I don't think I would need 8 cores, plus it saves me $100, but if it would be better I can do that.

It is actually funny that you mentioned that case, cause I was just looking at that one myself haha. Probably gonna go to that.

 

[Karadjgne]

The 1700 is stronger than the 1600, but for most, it's the extra 2c/4t that really don't make much sense. With a little OC, the 1600 comes very close in performance, and gaming wise, you'll (currently) rarely if ever have need for much more than 8 threads, plus the cost difference. It's basically the same argument as made a few years ago between the i5 and i7, nobody really had much use for HT, so the cheaper i5 was the better value. That's different today. Cores = time saved = fps. 2 cores are stronger than 1c/2t, so even without infinity fabric (HT) the 1700 in production apps like ShadowPlay is going to be better than the 1600 using 6c +2t. And that's dependent on exactly how many threads the app can make use of. If the app is unlimited, 8c/16t will be far stronger than 6c/12t. Is it worth the extra $80? That's a personal decision, but even a small OC on the 1700 is going to be roughly the same extra performance as a small OC on the 1600 comparatively.

 

[madmatt30]

^ what Karadjgne says is all true & relative .
However considering your original plan was for a 7600k just a straight quad , I honestly think the 1600 is going to be enough for you.

The fact is , non overclocked it can boost to 3.7GHz on a couple if cores , the 1700 won't go above 3.4ghz 99% if the time.

Of course this is fairly irrelevant if you're overclocking anyway , thing is though while the 1600 will do 3.8ghz with still fairly comfy 70c temps with the stock spire cooler ,the 1700 will he in the 80's

If you want a 1700 & you do want to overclock you absolutely need an aftermarket cooler.
With the 1600 you'll get away with the stock one.

That puts the relative price difference at more like $120 rather than $80

 

[GoodGuessWork]

I think I am going to go with the 1600, but I think I will still get a decent aftermarket cooler as it will only help. Do you think rather than that Cryorig h5 I could drop to either the h7 or go to a cooler master hyper 212 evo?

 

[madmatt30]

You would be surprised how good the spire cooler actually is ,it's like no stock cooler you will have seen before.

That said I can't blame you for going aftermarket .

The h7 or evo would be fine , be aware that some of these coolers you have to apply for a free am4 bracket seperately though .

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hJFPxr/deepcool-cpu-cooler-gammaxx400

The gammaxx 400 will drop straight on the board out of the box , it performs about the same as the evo - maybe a couple of degrees cooler.