[SOLVED] My Motherboard is not working/doesn't wanna start up.

[OneOddWolf]

I woke up on Saturday (1 day ago) to see Windows 11 Crashing, oh and I also tope a couple of (Non-Existant) Shortcuts to speed up typing a bit. and not wanting to start up, then I got a blue screen saying

KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR GOOGLE SEARCH:

Sometimes the KERNEL DATA INPAGE ERROR (BSOD) will appear on your Windows 11
if the driver installed in your system is outdated. The best possible solution is to
update the driver or reinstall it freshly.

so I thought ok it's just a code maybe the pc will boot, but Nah. THE PC STRAIGHT UP DIED, then I thought to myself: "Okay let me get a new windows installation." But then my motherboard did not load the USB and said "Insert boot media or change media" or something along those lines, then next day when I woke up the Motherboard did not wanna turn on via the start pins, I have tried to jump-start it and it didn't wanna wake up, so what I did was try to put a paper-clip to through 2 Power Pins on the PSM24P (PowerSupply Motherboard 24 PIN) connector to where the 2 pins are, which are Green and Black (While the PSM2P were connected to the motherboard), I let it run, after a sec the graphics card was twitching its fans, and then what I did after was I took off the cooler let the pc run for 10 sec and then after the CPU was getting really hot so I unplugged it, so the CPU is warming up which is normal for my MB to do when it starts up, I also tested it with another CPU but it did not wanna start, I tried the PSU with an intel pc and it woke up, I am really nervous that my motherboard has lost its life and I did anything I can, I did these things, oh and also before you ask yes I did breadboard and you may ask why my EPU on the photo is burned, that's because I somehow pushed a lot of power through the + pins and they melted but the MB still works so it's not that, But here is the stuff I tried:

1. Try to use other PSU's (The list of PSU's are under in SPECS)
2. Clear RTC on CLRTC. (My MB uses CLRTC(Clear Real-Time Clock) which is basically the same as CLRBIOS or CLBIOS (Clear Bios)
3. Try to change the CMOS battery (The Battery did not do anything at all.)
4. Change CPUs (AMD FX-8350 to AMD FX-8120) and they both got warm. (Yep like I said on number 13)
5. Try another GPU. (the GPU did not even give me an image.)
6. Tried to move RAM. (Random Access Memory was not the problem, it's funny because it's called Random Access.)
7. Tried to jump start it via the POWER + & - pins. (Like the pins that you connect to your case to make the route to the case, nothing.)
8. Tried to change SSD to another SSD and then HDD. (Changing drives isn't the problem.)
9. Tried to clear the CMOS. (Yeah clearing the BIOS ain't gon do nothing.)
10. Tried to unplug it from the PSU for a while and plug it back in. (Still nothing the PC was still dark)
11. Tried to look through the motherboard's chips, no capacitor no chips look damaged. (I didn't see anything wrong.)
12. Tried to check bent CPU pins, no CPU bent pins. (There were 0 bent pins.)
13. Tried to check if the CPU was getting hot (It was so that's norma.l)
14. The GPU was also getting warm after 1 minute (Cause the fans did not spin. But were twitching instead)
15. Change CPU Cooler (Yeah that doesn't help)
16. Try a case with a speaker to listen for posts (No Beeps)
17. Try to jump start it via the 2 power pins (Nothing)
18. Read other Forums on TSHD(Tom's Hardware) and LTTF(Linus Tech Tips Forums) (No One could help me with their fixes)
19. Tried to get a friend over to help me, we sadly couldn't fix it
20. I tried to contact Microsoft for the windows error but my guy said that i had to reset and stuff but that did not work.

Also:
Before the pc died I made sure to open the PRRSOW(Power Repeated Recovery Screen Of Windows) or PRTSSOW(Power Repeated Troubleshooting Screen Of Windows) or just simply RSOW(Recovery Screen Of Windows) (When the pc worked) and go try everything even these commands in CMD:

CHKDSK C:
CHKDSK D:
CHKDSK E:
CHKDSK F:
DISM /Online /Cleanup-image /RestoreHealth
DISM /Online /Cleanup-image /ScanHealth
CHKDSK /r

And if you want me to go back to the prompt I Can't cause my MB does not boot.

Specs:
CPU (MAIN): AMD FX-8350
SECOND CPU: AMD FX-8120
CPU COOLER: VEETRO V3
CPU SOCKET: AM3+

GPU (MAIN): Evga Geforce GTX 780 SC W/ACX
SECOND GPU: MSI GTX 480

PSU: COOLERMASTER G500 (500W)
SECOND PSU: ACE 750W(I know it's a fake PSU but decided to test anyways)

MB: ASUS M5A78L-M/USB3
SECOND MB: INTEL DP55WG

HDD 1: HITACHI HDS721050CLA662 (JANUARY-2012)
HDD 2: SEAGATE ST500DM002 (JUNE-2012)
SSD 1: TOSHIBA THNSNF128GCSS(JULY-2013)
SSD 2: SAMSUNG MZ-7LF1920(APRIL-2016)

COUNTRY POWER: 220-240V

Some Pictures:

https://imgur.com/jdoS8xA

https://imgur.com/C9FFb4d

https://imgur.com/7D6Pdkr

https://imgur.com/f9uRMEK

https://imgur.com/o95Xaql

https://imgur.com/9KaqEKw

https://imgur.com/K9JNYyC

https://imgur.com/BWqETrX

https://imgur.com/0GGbnFW

Spoiler: What i think is wrong.

My Conclusion Is that my MB is dead because the CPU works and the lights startup, the RGB activates and the GPU gets power, I have no idea why the MB would die out of nowhere.

OneOddWolf Right Now: I miss my PC...

 

[Lutfij]

PSU: COOLERMASTER G500 (500W)
SECOND PSU: ACE 750W(I know it's a fake PSU but decided to test anyways)
Those PSU's aren't exactly what should be considered a PSU. How old is the Coolermaster PSU in your build?

GPU (MAIN): Evga Geforce GTX 780 SC W/ACX
SECOND GPU: MSI GTX 480
With GPU's in your system you will need upwards of 500W, from a reliably built PSU, old PSU's will certainly output less power than it did on day one.

SECOND MB: INTEL DP55WG
That board won't accept the AMD processors you have at hand to work with.

That is never a good sight!

 

[COLGeek]

Your system is showing power and/ or heat damage. The 4 pin PSU connector on your motherboard is burned.

I would suggest you spend your money on a more modern and capable rig.

Whatever caused that could have damaged other components as well.

 

[OneOddWolf]

PSU: COOLERMASTER G500 (500W)
SECOND PSU: ACE 750W(I know it's a fake PSU but decided to test anyways)
Those PSU's aren't exactly what should be considered a PSU. How old is the Coolermaster PSU in your build?

GPU (MAIN): Evga Geforce GTX 780 SC W/ACX
SECOND GPU: MSI GTX 480
With GPU's in your system you will need upwards of 500W, from a reliably built PSU, old PSU's will certainly output less power than it did on day one.

SECOND MB: INTEL DP55WG
That board won't accept the AMD processors you have at hand to work with.

That is never a good sight!

Quickly to the PSU power problem, the pc always runs fine with that PSU and never turned off for me once so it's weird that it would die this quick, also the EPU is fine and works as it should, the second MB does not accept AMD but I know for a fact that both AMD processors work how they should cause I haven't used the other fx-8120 for a while, the Coolermaster F500 is from 2014 or somewhere there. The motherboard was working fine Saturday before it broke. I am scared that the thing is fried.

 

[OneOddWolf]

Your system is showing power and/ or heat damage. The 4 pin PSU connector on your motherboard is burned.

I would suggest you spend your money on a more modern and capable rig.

Whatever caused that damage could have damaged other components as well.

Quickly to the pin connector. The pin connector works fine and has been burned for 2 years now. So i don't think itøs that

 

[Darkbreeze]

I am scared that the thing is fried.

It is. And per your post on somebody else's thread that brought me here after my clarification about thread hijacking I thought I'd come take a look at your thread for you. You've been given good advice here already but I will just add a couple of things since you still seem resistant to the advice you are getting.

Quickly to the pin connector. The pin connector works fine and has been burned for 2 years now. So i don't think itøs that

This is wrong thinking. It doesn't matter in the least if it "worked fine" for two years. Things often work fine still after something has been damaged, until they don't. That's the way it works.

Something goes wrong, something gets burned, part of the circuit or a specific component gets weak, but it still works, for a while, until it eventually gives out. To quote the Mandalorian, this is the way.

This is how it works with electronics. There is no way with the kind of burn marks I see on that EPS 12v power socket for the CPU that there was no damage to the traces that run from that socket to the CPU and ANY time there is damage to a motherboard the writing is on the wall. It WILL eventually fail, in EVERY case, when there has been damage. The only question is WHEN. Could be immediately, could be two years down the road.

Also, neither of the power supplies you are trying to use are worth a crap. They are both POS. Sorry, that's a fact. AND, just as important, the Cooler master is VERY old, at least 8 years, and was a complete pile of junk even when it was brand new, and the ACE, well it doesn't even matter how old that one is because it is a dumpster fire since day one. Either of these could have been why your motherboard fried or incrementally became useless over time anyhow, even aside from any problems you might be having that are SPECIFICALLY power related.

That ACE unit couldn't possibly power your system with either the RX480 OR the GTX 780, because it couldn't power a potato. The Cooler master unit couldn't either, because if you look at the label it is NOT a 500w unit. In reality it is only a 408w unit based on the two 12v rails and the label is 100% BS because even those numbers don't add up. If those amperage numbers were correct it would be more like a 540w unit, but even CM says 408w with a maximum of 24 amps on one rail and 21 amps on the other rail. Then below it says 500w. Well, maybe if you add some capacity from the 3v and 5v rails, but it doesn't work that way. This is a power supply that even back in 2013 when it came out was known to be one of the very worst name brand units you could buy at that time and a big part of the reason why Cooler master earned a bad name for themselves when it comes to power supplies.

As you've already been told in the thread by others, you need to scrap this whole project and I understand as you said "This is my only PC". Well, I'm sorry about that, but unfortunately that's life. Sometimes this is what happens. We only have one life, but sometimes bad things happen and we get sick, or injured, and just because we only have one life doesn't mean it is automatically exempt from bad crap happening to it. Same with your PC. It's time to move on.

Since you say you have two working CPUs for this platform then maybe you could get away with finding another inexpensive AM3+ motherboard to slap one of them into but if we are being honest even if you could get one that was still reliable, which is probably unlikely to happen since practically all of these boards are now just as old as yours which is around 8 years old, it wouldn't in any way be worth the money unless you were getting it for like ten bucks. Even then, it would probably be ten bucks better spent being put towards something, anything, newer.

In my opinion, you need, at the very least, a newer motherboard and compatible CPU of some kind, even if it's something like a used Ivy bridge or Haswell era board and processor where you could still use your DDR3 in it, but I think even that would be a waste of money unless you got it for very cheap, and for certain you need to throw both of those power supplies in the trash and get something that is at least remotely usable, because neither of those are.

I'm quite sure you will deny all of what I've said just as you've denied what these others have said, but the fact is, the advice is sound, and it's your best avenue moving forward. It sucks to have to admit that what you have is 99.999% likely just done when you don't have anything else, but that's life. It's full of letdowns sometimes. You move on. This is the way.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Quickly to the PSU power problem, the pc always runs fine with that PSU and never turned off for me once so it's weird that it would die this quick

No. What is weird, is that it EVER worked AT ALL with either of those power supplies.

 

[OneOddWolf]

It is. And per your post on somebody else's thread that brought me here after my clarification about thread hijacking I thought I'd come take a look at your thread for you. You've been given good advice here already but I will just add a couple of things since you still seem resistant to the advice you are getting.


This is wrong thinking. It doesn't matter in the least if it "worked fine" for two years. Things often work fine still after something has been damaged, until they don't. That's the way it works.

Something goes wrong, something gets burned, part of the circuit or a specific component gets weak, but it still works, for a while, until it eventually gives out. To quote the Mandalorian, this is the way.

This is how it works with electronics. There is no way with the kind of burn marks I see on that EPS 12v power socket for the CPU that there was no damage to the traces that run from that socket to the CPU and ANY time there is damage to a motherboard the writing is on the wall. It WILL eventually fail, in EVERY case, when there has been damage. The only question is WHEN. Could be immediately, could be two years down the road.

Also, neither of the power supplies you are trying to use are worth a crap. They are both POS. Sorry, that's a fact. AND, just as important, the Cooler master is VERY old, at least 8 years, and was a complete pile of junk even when it was brand new, and the ACE, well it doesn't even matter how old that one is because it is a dumpster fire since day one. Either of these could have been why your motherboard fried or incrementally became useless over time anyhow, even aside from any problems you might be having that are SPECIFICALLY power related.

That ACE unit couldn't possibly power your system with either the RX480 OR the GTX 780, because it couldn't power a potato. The Cooler master unit couldn't either, because if you look at the label it is NOT a 500w unit. In reality it is only a 408w unit based on the two 12v rails and the label is 100% BS because even those numbers don't add up. If those amperage numbers were correct it would be more like a 540w unit, but even CM says 408w with a maximum of 24 amps on one rail and 21 amps on the other rail. Then below it says 500w. Well, maybe if you add some capacity from the 3v and 5v rails, but it doesn't work that way. This is a power supply that even back in 2013 when it came out was known to be one of the very worst name brand units you could buy at that time and a big part of the reason why Cooler master earned a bad name for themselves when it comes to power supplies.

As you've already been told in the thread by others, you need to scrap this whole project and I understand as you said "This is my only PC". Well, I'm sorry about that, but unfortunately that's life. Sometimes this is what happens. We only have one life, but sometimes bad things happen and we get sick, or injured, and just because we only have one life doesn't mean it is automatically exempt from bad crap happening to it. Same with your PC. It's time to move on.

Since you say you have two working CPUs for this platform then maybe you could get away with finding another inexpensive AM3+ motherboard to slap one of them into but if we are being honest even if you could get one that was still reliable, which is probably unlikely to happen since practically all of these boards are now just as old as yours which is around 8 years old, it wouldn't in any way be worth the money unless you were getting it for like ten bucks. Even then, it would probably be ten bucks better spent being put towards something, anything, newer.

In my opinion, you need, at the very least, a newer motherboard and compatible CPU of some kind, even if it's something like a used Ivy bridge or Haswell era board and processor where you could still use your DDR3 in it, but I think even that would be a waste of money unless you got it for very cheap, and for certain you need to throw both of those power supplies in the trash and get something that is at least remotely usable, because neither of those are.

I'm quite sure you will deny all of what I've said just as you've denied what these others have said, but the fact is, the advice is sound, and it's your best avenue moving forward. It sucks to have to admit that what you have is 99.999% likely just done when you don't have anything else, but that's life. It's full of letdowns sometimes. You move on. This is the way.

That's literally all i needed, and i did find a motherboard. I can't spend my money on anything newer but i think I'll get the Corsair cx650f RGB psu

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, that's not a terrible PSU, in fact, it's "ok".

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-cx650f-rgb-power-supply-review/6

But if you do without the RGB, which in your situation I think is a good idea since the cost is a factor for you, you might be able to get something a bit better. Just a thought.

What country or region are you in, and I can take a look to see if there are other, better offerings, in the same or close price range as that CX650F RGB.

 

[OneOddWolf]

So, that's not a terrible PSU, in fact, it's "ok".

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-cx650f-rgb-power-supply-review/6

But if you do without the RGB, which in your situation I think is a good idea since the cost is a factor for you, you might be able to get something a bit better. Just a thought.

What country or region are you in, and I can take a look to see if there are other, better offerings, in the same or close price range as that CX650F RGB.

So, that's not a terrible PSU, in fact, it's "ok".

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/corsair-cx650f-rgb-power-supply-review/6

But if you do without the RGB, which in your situation I think is a good idea since the cost is a factor for you, you might be able to get something a bit better. Just a thought.

What country or region are you in, and I can take a look to see if there are other, better offerings, in the same or close price range as that CX650F RGB.

Yeah im from denmark

 

[Darkbreeze]

How much is that unit you were looking at, in kr?

 

[OneOddWolf]

How much is that unit you were looking at, in kr?

519 kr

 

[Darkbreeze]

If that is where your budget needs to be for this, then that is probably the best option I am seeing for you.

If you can stretch the budget a bit higher then the next best options are probably the semi-modular EVGA GQ 650w Gold unit at 665 kr and then the fully modular Gold Corsair RM650 at 699 kr

https://dk.pcpartpicker.com/product...,337,169,50,11,14,71,441,56&sort=price&page=1

 

[DSzymborski]

To expand on what others have noted, junky PSUs are a silent killer in addition to an explosive one. That it physically turned on doesn't actually mean the PSU is safe and running well. Junky PSUs -- and these are both in that category -- can send dirty power and poorly regulated voltage to your components for years until they give up the ghost prematurely.