[SOLVED] My PC recently began crashing during titles but I can't figure out why ?

[anyalevecht]

I built my pc in July of last year, and until now everything has been running fine but for about three weeks now I have been experiencing crashing issues. While this is usually in a game this has not always been the case, because out of the game it will sometimes reboot randomly. When it crashes it normally says that the graphics driver has crashed, or the device removed depending on the game. I have already updated and reinstalled my drivers, reinstalled direct 12, tried running it with a different psu, and run the haven benchmark (when running the gpu sat around 83-80 celsius at 100 utilization). Still, the crashing has not been any less frequent and I am lost as to what could cause the issue.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Full hardware specifications including all model numbers and EXACT model of power supply, as well as approximately how old that power supply is or how long it has actually been in use in one or more systems? Also, please provide the same information for the "different PSU" as well.

Also, currently installed motherboard BIOS version?

Where, specifically, and how, specifically, did you get the "updated drivers" and install them? Did you go get them manually from your motherboard product support page, or are you relying on Windows or some third part or automatic driver utility to get and install them?

 

[anyalevecht]

GPU: evga geforce rtx 3080 ft13 ultra gaming
CPU: ryzen 5 5600x 6-core processor
CPU cooler: masterliquid ml240l v2 rgb
MOBO: x570 aorus elite wifi rev.1.0
Previous PSU: evga G6 supernova 750 w 80+ gold
New PSU (currently in system): corsair rm850x 850w 80+ gold
RAM: 16 GB g.skill ripjaws v series DDR4 3600

The updated drivers were installed directly from Nvidia and the gigabytes website and manually installed from there. The old psu was 8 months old and the current psu was bought new last week. Current bios version is F37c.

 

[Darkbreeze]

When did you install that BIOS version?

F37c isn't even an option among the listed BIOS releases for that board which leads me to suspect that either you've installed a BIOS release that was intended for a DIFFERENT board, such as the X570 Aorus Elite (Not WiFi model) or another similar model not the WiFi model, or it was a BIOS version that they determined there was problems with and removed it since it's "c" designation indicates it was likely a beta BIOS and was never validated as a stable BIOS release.

I would recommend either downgrading to BIOS version F37 or updating (This would be preferred) to version F38a. After updating it would be advisable to do a hard reset of the BIOS to ensure that the hardware tables are forced to fully reset. This MIGHT not be the problem, but I'd do it anyhow and then we can look at other potential options if the problem doesn't resolve itself by updating and doing the hard reset. It has a lot of success in similar situations to yours.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

 

[anyalevecht]

I don't think I have updated my bios since the initial build so it was probably downloaded 6 months ago or so. I don't know if this also happened for the wifi model, but there are some threads saying that F37c was delisted for the elite version so the same might have happened for the elite wifi. I have gone ahead and updated the bios to F38a as well as hard reset the bios. As of now, it seems like the issue has been resolved though I will be further testing it throughout the afternoon so if anything comes up I'll be sure to let you know. Thank you for all your help.

 

[anyalevecht]

So after playing more it seems like it became less frequent, but the frequency has always been infrequent so I don't think that stands to say much. What else could cause such an issue?

 

[NaClKnight]

So after playing more it seems like it became less frequent, but the frequency has always been infrequent so I don't think that stands to say much. What else could cause such an issue?

You could start with a monitoring software like OCCT or HWInfo to at least get a snapshot or trend of the PC's temps, voltages, frequencies, and wattages before the crash. If there are games or apps that reliably cause the crash, play those while the monitoring app is running. A hardware failure could cause the issue you're reporting but that would normally correlate with weird HW readings right before the crash.

You've already swapped the PSU and can likely rule that out, so let's look at other potential causes.

If you have space in the case, you may also try inserting the GPU into a different PCIe slot on the motherboard.

 

[Darkbreeze]

If you have space in the case, you may also try inserting the GPU into a different PCIe slot on the motherboard.

No, you really can't. Not on the majority of modern motherboards, unless you want to lose performance when you discover you are running on half the lanes you had when you were in the primary slot. Besides which, aside from VERY rare situations usually involving user inflicted damage to the PCIe slot, this usually won't tell you much anyhow since if there's a problem on the PCIe bus it will affect ALL of the x16 slots. Yes, there are exceptions, but they are not frequent enough to really consider until every other avenue has been exhausted and in which case there is nothing you can do besides swap the board out in that case anyhow.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So after playing more it seems like it became less frequent, but the frequency has always been infrequent so I don't think that stands to say much. What else could cause such an issue?

Did you do the hard reset like I recommended or did you simply update the BIOS and nothing more?

 

[anyalevecht]

I went through and hard reset the BIOS using the instructions provided

Edit: but afterwards I changed the XMP and disabled csm support for secure boot. Should I try to run it with the optimized settings first?

 

[anyalevecht]

After disabling my XMP profile it seems to be functioning properly is there a way to still run XMP while mitigating the issue? I had it set at DDR4-3600 18-22-22-42-64-1.35V.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, I would probably try bumping the DRAM voltage up in as small of increments as the board will allow you. This is generally anywhere from .005v to .020v depending on the motherboard. Try enabling XMP but bumping DRAM (Memory) voltage up slightly, then save settings, exit BIOS and see how it does.

What is the actual model of the memory kit you purchased and did both DIMMs come in that kit or was it two separate kits with just one DIMM in each one?