[SOLVED] Need help to diagnose the cause of BSOD

[alanrockid]

Hi. First of all i would like to apologize for any misspelling or english mistakes. Not my native language, but i will try to be as clear as possible.

This is my setup. It is all new, with exception of GPU and PSU wich i've migrated from my older PC.

CPU: i7 9700k
MB: MSI B360M Bazooka
RAM: 32 GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4 2400 mhz
GPU: NVidia GTX 980
SSD 1 (Windows Install): Samsung 860 EVO 500gb
SSD 2: Kingston SSD Now 120gb
HD: Seagate 2TB
PSU: Akasa Venon 750w
Water cooler: Corsair H45

Windows 10 Home with latest updates.
All drivers updated (GPU, audio, lan, chipset)

So... I have this annoying BSOD wich occours at random times, regardless of cpu use (sometimes it BSOD when pc is idle). Most of the times, the pc just totally freezes with no BSOD at all. I have to force a restart via power down. When the BSOD shows up, 95% of the times, it doesnt generate a dump file, it just stays froze at 0% until i power down the PC. The few times it had generated a dump, it pointed to hal.dll as the driver causing the error. So, after many stressful days of searching and testing, this is what i know so far:

The frequency of the BSOD seems to be directly linked to some softwares. When i install MSI motherboard utilities, Adobe Creative Suite and update my GPU Drivers (MSI utilities is by far the most triggering software for bsod, generating even other ones like WHEA Uncorrectable Error). Adobe CC, is also a major trigger, especially with photoshop and illustrator, but after installing the CC suite, the bsod appears even when no adobe app is running.

I've also noticed the PC does not seems to bsod until i install one of those 3 softwares. But i've not tested without those 3 for enough time to be sure.

My initial guess was a faulty RAM, so i ran memtest86 and windows memory diagnose tool multiple times. No errors.
Then i ran AIDA64 stress test for an hour and half. All Ok.
Next step: Intel Processor Diagnose Tool: Again...all ok (multiple times tested)
Stress test with Furmark: All ok.
Complete test overnight with HotCPU Tester (Paid edition): All ok.

I've reinstalled windows dozens of times already, isolating each one of ssds and hd. Still BSOD.
I've tested with just 1 stick of RAM (switching between the 4 sticks and slots). Still BSOD
I've tested without the gpu, with integrated graphic. Still BSOD and almost instant... Like, freezing after some minutes in the desktop.
Temperatures are all ok.
Updated drivers using iobit driver booster: Still BSOD.
Safe Mode: No BSOD by now, but still testing it.

There are some softwares that trigger BSOD. Most of them are adobe software (photoshop, illustrator, after effects, premiere...) and some games (especially 7 days to die, and sometimes, tabletop simulator). 7 Days to die is the most easy to reproduce bsod as it triggers after a few minutes most of the time. But there are a few times when the blue screen occours with no apparent reason, like when pc is idle at desktop.

I've ran out of ideas of what to do next to locate the root of this problem. I dont even know if it is a hardware or a software problem, and i'm going crazy trying to find out. Could somebody help me, please?

 

[Ralston18]

Start by looking in Reliability History/Manager and Event Viewer for error codes, warnings, and even information events that occur just before or at the time of the BSODs. May or may not be related to one or more apps.

You can also use Task Manager and Resource Monitor to observe what your system is doing at any given time.

Just launch one or the other and drag the window to one side. Then work or game as normal while watching the window. Look for changes or bottlenecks that occur.

Take your time to learn what information is being presented and how to navigate around within the tool.

See what you can find but do not immediately react to anything that you discover. Keep looking and testing until you are sure about what is happening.

Try to get to the point where you can make the problem occur whenever you wish. Then there will be some certainty about the cause and a possible fix.

 

[Colif]

updated BIOS?

Can you follow option one on the following link - here and then do this step below: Small memory dumps - Have Windows Create a Small Memory Dump (Minidump) on BSOD

that creates a file in c windows/minidump after the next BSOD
copy that file to documents
upload the copy from documents to a file sharing web site, and share the link here and I will get someone to convert file into a format I can read

note: I will be away for a few days but there are others around who can read the dumps

 

[alanrockid]

Thank you for the help! Here are some more details and what seems to """fix""" the issue.

BIOS was updated long before the BSOD appear for the first time.
Memory Dumps 99% of the times, simply won't works. The computer get stuck at 0% when trying to generate dump files after the BSOD. The last time i was lucky enough to get a dump file (i dont have it anymore, unfortunatelly) it pointed to hal.dll as the driver responsible for the crash (along with the machine_check_exception error).

Reliability History and event manager do not point to any relevant errors that could explain the blue screens (at least in my opinion: A bunch of distributedCOM 10016 erros and a couple of Service control manager 7000, at random times, with not direct relation to the time of the crashes.)

I had monitored the system before, it all seems fine. Crashes happen with low temps (CPU and GPU), with RAM, CPU and GPU far from full stress.

BUUUUT

I saw some topics with similar issues and one of then, hinted that deactivate Turbo Booster in the Mainboard could solve the issue. I did that, and i got no BSOD since then (this is the 3rd day using the pc with said softwares and without any issue. Now, i know that it should not be a valid solution, since there should be no reason for Turbo Booster to be deactivated (i guess). So i have another question: Could it be the fact that i use a b360 chipset with no overclock features and a 9700k unlocked for overclock CPU? Maybe the cpu is giving MB instructions to boost its power via vCore or something like that, but the lack of overclock features makes it fail somehow. Is that a thing?

 

[Colif]

Cpu only do that if told to by a program, they don't automatically over clock

How big is the page file? MCE can be any hardware which does not help.

I will attach a link to reasons why dump files are not created when I get home tomorrow. Not near pc right now

 

[alanrockid]

Isn't Turbo boost "kind of a overclock"? Without it, the CPU gets locked at stock speed of 3.6Ghz. With TB on, it fluctuates between 4,4 - 4,8 Ghz. I know for a fact the 7 days to die (one of the main triggers of BSOD) is a early access game with huge optimization issues (it uses 100% of GPU, for example). I wonder if those two things together (hardware CPU + chipset possible conflicts and Software) are the root of the issue. If you could help me at least to get windows to generate dump files it would be already a great help. Thank you!

 

[Colif]

Sorry, i forgot to come back, I didn't want to come back but that is another story.

Here are reasons why you might not get a dump file - https://support.microsoft.com/en-au/help/130536/windows-does-not-save-memory-dump-file-after-a-crash

PC should only use turbo boost if temperatures are low enough to run it on that setting. CPU has a base speed of 3.6 but a max turboboost of 4.9 so that is perfectly normal for your CPU - https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...9700k-processor-12m-cache-up-to-4-90-ghz.html

 

[alanrockid]

I've tried the steps suggested to troubleshoot the lack of dump files, but it still freezes at 0% and stays that way forever. I've reached a point in my "7 Days to Die" save where i can reproduce the BSOD whenever Turbo Boost is enabled. Using MSI after burner to display real time hardware info, i can see that the CPU and GPU temperatures are far from limit at the moment of crash (CPU = 56 - 65º C, GPU = 75 - 77º C) but i get a alarm in after burner concerning voltage. With turbo boost disabled, i've reached a whole week of intensive use without any issues. I've bought another Motherboard with z390 chipset, more suitable for CPU, but i need to know if this issue is a limitation of motherboard/chipset or a actual flaw. (Maybe this topic should be moved.)

 

[Darkbreeze]

Have you done a CLEAN install, NOT a "re-install", and then NOT installed the MSI motherboard utilities, which like most motherboard bundled utilities, is usually junk anyhow?

I would try FIRST making sure that your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed and then doing a CLEAN install (Meaning, disconnecting ALL other drives except the target drive and the drive with the installation media on it before beginning the install, then choosing the Custom option during the install, deleting ALL existing partitions on the target drive, then installing to the unallocated and unpartitioned space and allowing Windows to create the necessary partitions and perform any formatting which it will do automatically) followed by installing ONLY the essential drivers from the motherboard product page. Chipset, audio codec, network adapter and storage controllers only. Then see if you have any problems with this bare bones software configuration. Next, install only your browser of choice, with NO plugins or add ons, and confirm whether there are still no issues.

If you have problems in either of those configurations then there is probably a hardware issue to blame somewhere.


Windows 10 Clean install tutorial


If you DO already have the latest motherboard BIOS installed, it's possible there could be an issue with the CMOS hardware tables, and doing a hard reset could fix that. We sometimes see this solve issues that it logically shouldn't even fix, and often we see it for otherwise seemingly unexplainable issues.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

 

[alanrockid]

Have you done a CLEAN install, NOT a "re-install", and then NOT installed the MSI motherboard utilities, which like most motherboard bundled utilities, is usually junk anyhow?

I would try FIRST making sure that your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed and then doing a CLEAN install (Meaning, disconnecting ALL other drives except the target drive and the drive with the installation media on it before beginning the install, then choosing the Custom option during the install, deleting ALL existing partitions on the target drive, then installing to the unallocated and unpartitioned space and allowing Windows to create the necessary partitions and perform any formatting which it will do automatically) followed by installing ONLY the essential drivers from the motherboard product page. Chipset, audio codec, network adapter and storage controllers only. Then see if you have any problems with this bare bones software configuration. Next, install only your browser of choice, with NO plugins or add ons, and confirm whether there are still no issues.

If you have problems in either of those configurations then there is probably a hardware issue to blame somewhere.


Windows 10 Clean install tutorial


If you DO already have the latest motherboard BIOS installed, it's possible there could be an issue with the CMOS hardware tables, and doing a hard reset could fix that. We sometimes see this solve issues that it logically shouldn't even fix, and often we see it for otherwise seemingly unexplainable issues.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button on the case for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

I have the latest BIOS for my motherboard. I did a clean install of windows many times in many HD and SSD alone. I do not install MSI utilities anymore, as i have already confirmed that it increases the occurrence of BSOD drastically. I've tried clear CMOS before, but only by removing the battery for some minutes. I'll try doing your way.

As I've said before, there are some software which seems to trigger the issue when Turbo Boost is enabled. MSI utilities were one of them. Adobe Creative suite is another, triggering BSOD randomly in Windows after its installed (even when no adobe programs are being executed). When i want to reproduce the blue screens, i launch 7 Days to Die, as it usually gets the system to freeze and BSOD after a few minutes (only when turbo boost is on... It all runs smoothly with TB off). With a clean install and only the basic drivers installed, i get no BSOD, but then, i get pretty much nothing to stress the system, so the problem could still be there, just not triggered by anything (same thing with safe mode).

I have no overclock settings besides turbo boost when its enabled. I got this CPU (9700k) because it was on sale and 8700 was nowhere to be found at my location. I'm no expert in hardware, so when i bought the b360 motherboard i thought: "Well... its compatible...thats all i need". I didn't know about the whole "this chipset is not compatible with overclock" issue by the time. I have seen some motherboard reviews saying that some motherboards could not supply some cpus properly even at stock speeds. Thats why i'm wondering if that would not be the problem with my setup. Anyway, i'm waiting for my new motherboard (z390 chipset to arrive), but i still need to know if my hardware is broken, not compatible with turbo boost or if its just a software issue.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Do you have both 4 pin EPS connectors plugged in to the motherboard along the top edge, above and to the left of the CPU socket, in ADDITION to the 24 pin ATX connector?

You definitely need a different power supply. I wouldn't even be surprised if THAT was your entire problem. It's highly likely given the poor quality of Akasa power supplies.

There is no such thing as "not compatible with turbo boost". All modern systems, ALL, are capable of supporting CPU boost features if the CPU has them. This is either bent pins, a bad motherboard or a lack of power delivery when the CPU boosts past the base clock threshold.

The MOST probable reason for your problem is the lack of power delivery. That might be due to the EPS 12v connectors not being both connected, but I doubt it. It's a lot more likely that it is simply due to this low end chipset motherboard not being able to supply the necessary power when that CPU boosts, because I see about fifty other threads on this and other sites where people with your motherboard, and other B360 motherboards, have the same problem with the 9700k as soon as the CPU tries to boost. That board, and most B360 boards, especially ones from the bottom of the tiers, simply do not have good enough power delivery VRM designs to handle those CPUs. This is nothing new. MSI was well known for these problems even back in the FX days when they'd say that their low end chipsets could support FX-9370 and 9590 processors, and they could, at least until you did something more demanding than simply powering on.

 

[alanrockid]

All the connectors are properly connected (the 24 and 8 pin connectors).Though the PSU is my next thing in list to upgrade (probably that: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-Crossfire-Certified-Modular-GP-G750H/dp/B01N7JHVDW), and my power supply is kind of old (5-6 years), i have my doubts if that was really the problem, as I've used it not so long ago in my former desktop with slightly higher power consume and with no issues at all. I think it's safe to assume that motherboard is just to weak to proper supply cpu. I will do some tests when the new motherboard (not MSI, thankfully) and PSU arrives. I guess i'll try to sell this b360 board with a warning regarding high end cpu's. Thank you, Darkbreeze, Colif and Ralston18 for your help and patience.

 

[Darkbreeze]

NO. You do NOT want a Gigabyte power supply. Likely, it's little or no better than what you have now. No reviews, but the platform is known, and it's not particularly good. VERY mediocre to low quality.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?13706-Gigabyte-G750H-series


Click the spoiler below for GOOD power supply recommendations.

Spoiler

Spoiler

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. No. Just, no.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it's on an already known to be high quality PSU platform. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far as I've seen there are really no excellent units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

Super Flower. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (All models except the 650w model), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, B3 650w, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master. They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

Cooler Master Masterwatt Lite 600W review​

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

Power supply discussion thread​

Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.

Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include A-Top, AK Power, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, RaveRocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.

I would advise that you look at Z390 motherboards if you don't want power delivery issues. Even Z370 was not actually designed for the power requirements on some of the 9th Gen CPUs, although they will work.

 

[alanrockid]

Really??? The more you know...

Good thing i'm still searching. The motherboard was already bought, i'm just waiting for it to arrive (Gigabyte z390 Aorus Pro wifi... please, don't give me bad news about this one... XD). I think i'll search for a PSU with the extra 4 pin cable to assist in overclocking (the mobo has a automatic overclock profile for 9700k). Definitely gonna look the links above. Thank you again.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yes, that is a decent board. Good enough anyhow. Better than many others.

Yes, you probably would be wise to go with a PSU that has that. Are you in the USA or someplace else?

 

[alanrockid]

I'm in Brazil, but amazon.com offers international delivery at a (not so) fairly price.

 

[Darkbreeze]

This is probably the least expensive model of good quality, even though it is technically a few hundred watts higher capacity than you actually need, that has the extra EPS 12v connectors.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: Antec - High Current Gamer Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $89.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-08 18:13 EST-0500

But I don't know if it is available in your region.

Here, on Amazon though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4L1PKR/?tag=pcpapi-20

 

[alanrockid]

This is probably the least expensive model of good quality, even though it is technically a few hundred watts higher capacity than you actually need, that has the extra EPS 12v connectors.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: Antec - High Current Gamer Gold 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $89.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-03-08 18:13 EST-0500

But I don't know if it is available in your region.

Here, on Amazon though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4L1PKR/?tag=pcpapi-20

Brazil's stores do not sell Antec PSUs, from what i know. I've found a Corsair RM750X, though, for a very good price. (Antec converted cost would be something like R$1070. The Corsair is being sold here for R$740). It does have double 4+4 EPS 12v cables. What do you think?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Actually, it doesn't. The specs for that unit say it only has one EPS connector, that consists of 2 4 pin connectors. If you go look at the images of that motherboard you will see it has 3 four pin EPS sockets, so you need a PSU with either EPS 4 pin x3 or the EPS 4+4 x2 cables. That PSU has only a single cable with two 4 pin connectors.

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...ced/RMx-Series/p/CP-9020092-NA#tab-tech-specs


However, it's a very good unit and that extra 4 pin EPS connector is ONLY necessary if you are going to be doing extreme overclocking. It's recommended to have it, for boards that have it, but it's not essential.

 

[alanrockid]

Actually, the RMx series had an update in 2018 which improved some things, the double EPS cable among other things. And you know what, it just entered in sale (like...just now). It dropped from R$740 to R$615. I think this will be my choice XD.

Link to the updated RMx series:

https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categ...ced/RMx-Series/p/CP-9020179-EU#tab-tech-specs

 

[Darkbreeze]

You are right. My bad. I don't know why Corsair doesn't retire those old pages to a legacy sub domain like Seasonic does so Google will only give the more recent results at the top of specific model searches. Anyhow, you're right, and that's a great choice. Very good power supply.

That unit actually has very few shortcomings including in-cable capacitors, which makes it a poor choice if you have any plans to custom sleeve OR add sleeved cables later on, because you'll lose some of the great ripple suppression that unit has, much like the EVGA G2 and G3 units that also have in cable capacitors for ripple control, but is a non issue if you don't plan to do any sleeving or add a custom sleeved modular cable set later.

It also seems it has a fairly short distance between peripheral connectors, but that's only likely to be an issue if you have a full tower case rather than a mid tower, as components migh be significantly further apart in a full tower.

It also doesn't have a fan test button, and big deal, because most units don't and never have. I think that's a gimmicky thing to add anyhow, as it's stupidly easy to test the fan if that's ever in question using a paper clip.

Overall, a good choice. It's made by CWT rather than Seasonic or Flextronics like some of Corsair's higher end units, but it's a good platform.