Question Network speed - wired vs wifi, 2.4 vs 5, router vs ap's

[axlrose]

General question, should I be seeing similar speeds across all of these formats?

500mbps into the house
My pc, which has a cat6a cable running from the router usually gets about 350 mpbs down.
My phone using ookla and wifiman get about 100mpbs on the 2.4 channel sitting next to the router.
My phone using ookla and wifiman get about 35mbps on the 5.0 channel sitting next to the router.
My ap's throughout the house, get about 35mpbs.

Thanks for any thoughts.

router - tplink archer c5 ac 1200

AC1200 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router

AC1200 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router

www.tp-link.com

 

[helpstar]

update the archer´s firmware
archer specs:
wifi 5 AC
5GHz: Up to 867Mbps
2.4GHz: Up to 300Mbps
Lan : 1Gbps

with ethernet the full 500Mbps should be there

which phone is it? does it provide AC wifi 5 or slower?
usually 5GHz is faster than 2.4GHz in short range

ookla is not that reliable, better download at least two large files from different servers to get the max. speed

 

[Ralston18]

And I will ask about those Access Points: make, model, connectivity, configration?

Any other wired or wireless network devices?

Sitting next to the router is one thing - however other devices, sitting elsewhere could likely be involved.

 

[axlrose]

update the archer´s firmware
archer specs:
wifi 5 AC
5GHz: Up to 867Mbps
2.4GHz: Up to 300Mbps
Lan : 1Gbps

with ethernet the full 500Mbps should be there

which phone is it? does it provide AC wifi 5 or slower?
usually 5GHz is faster than 2.4GHz in short range

ookla is not that reliable, better download at least two large files from different servers to get the max. speed

Thanks for the reply.

ISP says I have to use their router to get full 500. I'm okay with the 350 currently. Sometimes it gets into the 400's. They also verified, I can't run a setup of unifi AP's on their router.

I will continue to work on updating the firmware on the router. When I went to the TP-Link site, I couldn't find firmware that matched, and there were warnings about bricking with the wrong software. I could find a C6 or a C8, but I have a C5 etc.

Phone is a one plus 9 pro. I can go near one of my AP's and get in the three hundreds, but not by the other two or the router. Have worked hard for a long time to get all three AP's hardlined with cat6a and all reading as such.

I have been using wifiman and ookla.

 

[axlrose]

And I will ask about those Access Points: make, model, connectivity, configration?

Any other wired or wireless network devices?

Sitting next to the router is one thing - however other devices, sitting elsewhere could likely be involved.

Put absurd amounts of time into getting all three AP's wired with cat 6a and getting them to read as such. One of them seems to run at expected speeds. The other two do not. The router itself does not. I know AP's can be sketchy sometimes, but the two channels on my router while I stand next to it shouldn't be right?

 

[Ralston18]

A network diagram would be helpful.

You may have created some a network loop somewhere.

Just a simple sketch showing wired and wireless connections.

For example (line diagram) as I understand your posts thus far.

----> = wired connection

~~~ > = wireless connection.

ISP === (coax, DSL, fiber) ===> Modem ---->[WAN Port] Archer Router [LAN Port x 3] ----> [LAN Port] Home Wifi Access Point ~~~~> Wireless network devices.

With other Router LAN ports -----> Wired network devices.

Feel free to edit and correct my line diagram. Or make your own sketch if you wish.

Include any devices with wired connections directly to one of the APs.

Are those Cat 6a cables round UTP pure copper, 22-24 AWG? ( Not aluminum, flat, or shielded.)

Make and model modem?

Do each of the Access Points (make and model? ) have a static IP address reserved for that device via the devices MAC? With IP addresses outside of the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router.

Compare the configuration settings of the AP that runs at expected speeds to the other two APs. What is different?

Run "ipconfig /all" (without quotes) via the Command Prompt on a working computer. Copy and post the full results.

Did you make any changes with respect to Roaming Agressiveness?

FYI:

https://www.makeuseof.com/windows-roaming-aggressiveness-guide/

Details matter.

 

[kanewolf]

General question, should I be seeing similar speeds across all of these formats?

500mbps into the house
My pc, which has a cat6a cable running from the router usually gets about 350 mpbs down.
My phone using ookla and wifiman get about 100mpbs on the 2.4 channel sitting next to the router.
My phone using ookla and wifiman get about 35mbps on the 5.0 channel sitting next to the router.
My ap's throughout the house, get about 35mpbs.

Thanks for any thoughts.

router - tplink archer c5 ac 1200

AC1200 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router

AC1200 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router

www.tp-link.com

You SHOULD get the speed you are paying for when directly connected to your router via ethernet cable.
Start with a factory reset of your router. Sometimes you can change a setting that you don't realize will impact your performance.
After the factory reset, with a minimal configuration (admin password, WIFI name and password ONLY) retest with your wired connection.

 

[bill001g]

I agree you should always get what you pay for. Even very inexpensive routers can run almost full 1gbit speed. Sometimes features can get set in a router that will bottleneck the speed. A factory reset should fix that.

If you are using the router you list that connects to modem via a ethernet. What speeds do you get if you connect your pc to the modem instead of the router.
The ISP can't blame your router it is not in the path.

So after you get this figured out then you can test your AP.

I would hook your pc to the cable instead of the AP. Even though it is a long cable it should get exactly the same speed as a short one connected to the PC.
If it doesn't then you have cable or jack issues.

After you get everything working on wired you can start the challenge of figuring out wifi issue. Wifi is tough because it is a combination of your end devices and the routers/ap. When you start testing wifi I try to only have 1 set of radios on at a time. Either uplug the AP or in the case of the router turn off the wifi radios when you are testing the AP. You can also just use all different SSID. You really need to know exactly what radio chip in what AP you are testing.

 

[axlrose]

Oh my! There is so much here! 😁

Let me start working through these.

 

[axlrose]

Started by talking with chat at tp-link. They said, wow that router is old. We don't have updates to the firmware on the site for that, but we'll dig some up, because it badly needs to have its firmware updated.

After doing that, my 5.0 channel is running up in the 300mbps now. Basically moved everything not on my ap's over to that and am shunning my 2.4 currrently, which is still running at 35 or lower. AP that was running slow is still running slow, but is also back to saying it is meshing, which likely explains the speeds. I might run some new cables to it if I can figure out how to get them from the basement to the main floor again. Office is on the 5.0 instead of on the AP, so at least functioning for the purpose for the time being.

 

[axlrose]

Ookla says that my pc is getting in the 400's patched straight from my router. Again, that's fine. I pay for 500mbps and I'm sure it's not always going to read 500.

Sorry if this was unclear before. ISP comes into the basement and goes direct to the router, then out to many, many things around my house I could run my pc cable right to the entry point into the house and take the router out of the puzzle to see, but again, getting in the 400's and paying for 500. PC doesn't use the AP's at all. They are for dead spots around the house.

 

[axlrose]

A network diagram would be helpful.

You may have created some a network loop somewhere.

Just a simple sketch showing wired and wireless connections.

For example (line diagram) as I understand your posts thus far.

----> = wired connection

~~~ > = wireless connection.

ISP === (coax, DSL, fiber) ===> Modem ---->[WAN Port] Archer Router [LAN Port x 3] ----> [LAN Port] Home Wifi Access Point ~~~~> Wireless network devices.

With other Router LAN ports -----> Wired network devices.

Feel free to edit and correct my line diagram. Or make your own sketch if you wish.

Include any devices with wired connections directly to one of the APs.

Are those Cat 6a cables round UTP pure copper, 22-24 AWG? ( Not aluminum, flat, or shielded.)

Make and model modem?

Do each of the Access Points (make and model? ) have a static IP address reserved for that device via the devices MAC? With IP addresses outside of the DHCP IP address range allowed to the router.

Compare the configuration settings of the AP that runs at expected speeds to the other two APs. What is different?

Run "ipconfig /all" (without quotes) via the Command Prompt on a working computer. Copy and post the full results.

Did you make any changes with respect to Roaming Agressiveness?

FYI:

https://www.makeuseof.com/windows-roaming-aggressiveness-guide/

Details matter.

ISP into house
|
TP-Link C5 Archer AC1200 router
| |
TP-Link TL-SG108 Switch TP-Link TL-SG108 Switch

The Switches both go to lots of stuff, but my understanding from earlier troubleshooting is that a loop would mean that a patch cable goes from one of the switches to the other, and that isn't the case. They just both go to lots of other stuff, my pc, my firecube, my av receiver, my blu-ray player, some IoT lighting, the AP's etc.

Nothing is wire to the AP's. They are Unifi AP's that justs shoot out wifi goodness.

Cables are all from monoprice and meet your suggested standards.

*** I have heard about the static addresses before, and I don't know much about that, but I don't think so. I think everything is set at DHCP (which I think is not static?). I'm not knowledgeable here, but am happy to learn. ***

I worked for a long time to get all thre AP's reading as GbE (which reads wired) instead of Mesh (which reads piggy backed and slower). Had them working this way for a few weeks, but after the firmware update, one of them is reading Mesh again, and slow. That's the one I'll check cables on again.

I don't know anything about the ipconfig, but can try that.

I also have never heard of Roaming Agressiveness!? I'll look into that as well.

Thank you!

 

[axlrose]

Windows IP Configuration

Host Name . . . . . . . . . . . . : DESKTOP-H4DHFSB
Primary Dns Suffix . . . . . . . :
Node Type . . . . . . . . . . . . : Hybrid
IP Routing Enabled. . . . . . . . : No
WINS Proxy Enabled. . . . . . . . : No

Ethernet adapter Ethernet:

Connection-specific DNS Suffix . :
Description . . . . . . . . . . . : Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I219-V
Physical Address. . . . . . . . . : 4C-CC-6A-4D-87-D8
DHCP Enabled. . . . . . . . . . . : Yes
Autoconfiguration Enabled . . . . : Yes
Link-local IPv6 Address . . . . . : fe80::65db:47c8:3583:c38f%11(Preferred)
IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.131(Preferred)
Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0
Lease Obtained. . . . . . . . . . : Friday, July 5, 2024 10:17:55 PM
Lease Expires . . . . . . . . . . : Saturday, July 6, 2024 1:17:53 AM
Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
DHCP Server . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
DHCPv6 IAID . . . . . . . . . . . : 340577386
DHCPv6 Client DUID. . . . . . . . : 00-01-00-01-20-0D-BD-85-4C-CC-6A-4D-87-D8
DNS Servers . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.0.1
NetBIOS over Tcpip. . . . . . . . : Enabled

 

[SyCoREAPER]

I'm not a fan of TP-Link and especially Netgear.

The Archer you have, is it the V2 or V4? TP was too lazy to create separate (support sites).

There's this official but mix of two languages (English and Bulgarian?) V4 firmware
https://www.tp-link.com/bg/support/download/archer-c5-v4/#Firmware

(Also V4 apparently has OpenWRT available.)

And V2:
https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/archer-c5/v2/#Firmware

 

[axlrose]

I believe it was v 1.00000000 when I went to tp-link for an update.

 

[Ralston18]

Re: ipconfig.

Host Desktop is using DHCP and requesding IP addresses from the router using 192.168.0.1. Desktop (at the time ipconfig was run) was provided the IP address of 192.168.0.131 (subnet mask = 255.255.255.0) Very much normal.

The router is providing lease times for only 3 hours. Not technically an issue However I would set the lease time to a week or more so devices do not need to be continually requesting addresses.

Disabling IPv6 has proven helpful for many people.

Also change the DNS Servers from the router at 192.168.0.1 to Google at 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4

= = = =

The diagram is a good start - you show two switches. Where are the APs? As I understood the connections the APs used wired connections (Ethernet) that should lead back through the switches to the router. Or perhaps directly connected to the router. Each AP being assigned its' own Static IP address.

Expand your diagram to show all network devices.

What may be happening, especially with lots of devices, is that IP addresses get duplicated. Especially if some devices have static addresses and are not on when another device requests an IP address. The router simply provides an address within the allowed DHCP IP address range. Then the static device is turned on and duplication occurs. Very likely to be duplicates if default settings were not changed and/or the devices were factory reset at some time or another.

APs do not have to have an physical wired connection to the router. However, they must be wired to receive their initial configuration including a Static IP address, subnet mask, and so forth.

I would expect, to some extent, that each AP has a wired connection to one of the switches or perhaps directly to the router. Devices being served by the APs would and can be all wireless connections.

Take a look in the router's admin screens. There should be some list or table showing all network devices connected and maybe disconnected. Look at the IP addresses being used/assigned. Look for the allowed DHCP IP address range.

One very helpful tool is a diagram of the network showing all devices and connections. And each device should be labled with device name, make/model, MAC, and IP address. Note the specific IP address if static. Or if DHCP then just note DHCP.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/home-network-diagrams-4064053

https://lazyadmin.nl/home-network/home-network-diagram/

Does not need to be fancy.

The diagram may or may not reveal some physical loop - however, a loop of some sort is still a possibility. TBD.

Also you do not need to be concerned about showing the IP addresses being used within your network. Thousands of small networks (including mine) use those addresses. Mine is 192.168.1.1

I use 192.168.1.1xx for static devices (e.g., printer, NAS, camera) and 192.168.1.201-212 as a limited DHCP IP address range.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-public-ip-address-2625974

May seem like a lot at first but once you get the basic network layout in place then you will have a better understanding of your network and hosted devices.

Makes configuration management and changes much easier. Plus very helpful for troublehooting.

 

[bill001g]

Lots of updates since I last looked.

The speeds you now get are not unexpected. In some ways 300mbps is a bit high but if you are right next to the router that is possible. Although you can get more than the 38mbps on 2.4 it is not a unexpected number. It would be extremely rare to get even 100mbps with the best router and wifi radio you seldom find in end devices. Check that you have it set to run on 40mhz wide channels.

If you are happy with 400mbps then it doesn't matter but if I looked up the model of your router correctly the router uses ethernet for WAN. Ethernet can only go 100 meters so unless you live in the ISP office there is a different technology coming to your house that can go more distance..like coax cable of fiber. There is some device in your house that is converting that to ethernet and you should be able to plug in there.

In the end I would not worry about the wifi speeds to much. Connect as much as you can via ethernet and leave the wifi for device that can not connect via ethernet. Almost all those type of device do not need much bandwidth anyway. Even watching 4k netflix is only about 30mbps. High bandwidth only helps on large file downloads. This is mostly something done on a desktop machine. More bandwidth really doesn't do much for other types of applications. For example online games only use around 1mbps when you play. Having more does not make it run faster or better it is just left unused.

 

[axlrose]

Thanks for the info on the 2.4. I didn't realize that should be that slow by design. I'm not sure I understood the part about the ISP, but we did get fiber in the last few years. I'll double check with them about a modem, but years ago, they put a line through our poured concrete foundation into the basement, and that's what I connect to my router.