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Nice step up on mother board. If you think you need all the extras great. Now the only thing left to fix are those fans. Get the 120mm. Look this is right off the case product page on line.

COOLING SYSTEM
XCLIO TWIN 25CM COOLING FAN SIDEPANEL (5PCS BLUE LED LIGHTING)
FAN 01. – TARGETING MOTHERBOARD, AGP AND MEMORY RAM MODULE
FAN 02. – TARGETING 3.5’& 5.25’ BAY (HARD DRIVE, CD/DVD ROM & BURNER)

SIDE: 25CM X 2 (ON/OFF SWITCH, VR FAN SPEED CONTROL)
FRONT: 12CM X 1 (OPTIONAL)
REAR: 12CM X 1 (OPTIONAL)

Have a good build!
 
Basicly, I am clueless
RESEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't buy premanufactured! RESEARCH PLEASE!!!

SINCERELY,
~EVERYONE who is even REMOTELY "In the know!" about computer hardware!

Please realize too, half the people in forums have little hands-on knowledge!!! Take it with a grain of salt! Read PROFESSIONAL ARTICLES for info!
 
Ok, another few modifications to the system. I think maybe, barring any special deals on a brand, the components are right. Anything I am missing here? Any brand changes that make sense?


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If you don't OC, get rid of the EVGA nForce 680i board. SLI costs extra too and isn't necessary. Go with an ICH8 board and Intel's 965 chipset. Cheaper, and actually faster when it comes to things like USB etc.

Also, Lightscribe is crap. You can get a faster DVD burner for that price.

Drop the case too. $115 for SECC steel is way too much. Cheaper and suitable cases can be had. Put your money into solid internal parts, flash is for people with more cash or who care more about how it looks than how it performs.

I agree with going with Western Digital hard drives with 16mb caches.
You could also consider other monitors. I'm pretty sure that Samsung monitors are better than Acer, and for the same price I think. Shop around more on those.

Why all the case fans? Doesn't that case you think you want have some? I'm telling you, go with performance first. Just get a good solid system for your first build. Spend your money on things other than looks, then you know what quality is and won't waste your money on crappy parts. For instance, an LED fan might be nice, but if it makes too much noise and quits out on you, it isn't worth it. Buy quality first, and glitz when it comes down to a choice between two quality products.
 
Everyone has an opinion. So keep that in mind. I think cases are personal so pick what you like. It is what is inside that counts. And all cases have pros and cons. But in the long run it is you who has to look at it. Fans are a couple of bucks...no big deal. I just didnt want to see you get the wrong size. And since the case fans are so huge they probably would be enough but they do have individual controls so you can run them anyway you want so for a few bucks on the optional mounts what the heck get them, as that was your original intent.
You could definately step down some on the motherboard. The 680i chipset is geared to the enthusiats who overclocks. My last build was with the Intel 965 chipset and it is solid.
I know nothing about Acer monitors, I have Samsung, but like JohnnyDough said research, find reviews, also customer reviews from newegg are helpful.
 
I need a little help, because I am becoming a little confused on the motherboards. I have been told by some I don't need the EVGA 122-CK-NF68-TR LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 680i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail because most likely, I won't be over clocking.

What are the differences between the 680i series and the next step down. What advantages do each hold?
 
Ok, another few modifications to the system. I think maybe, barring any special deals on a brand, the components are right. Anything I am missing here? Any brand changes that make sense?


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You know, you are getting really darn close here. 1000% better than what you started out with. This is a top notch list that anyone would proud to own. From here, things people start picking on are going to be really trivial, and getting down to personal preference.
As for the board, it's a great board with more features than you need right now, but in 6 months....who knows? Maybe you might want to try your hand at overclocking a little, or maybe add another video card?
 
Im not going to critique your system, because every poster is going to have a different opinion and parts list.
However, you there are much better, and faster monitors available at newegg for less money.

Agreed. We think you should find a cheaper LCD. I'll offer one, but...are you buy'n everything from NewEgg or no? Monitors could be seen as a seperate purchase...
 
Tell you what. A list of 19" DVI monitors under 12ms response...
Go here:

http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_compare.php?topcat_id=1&page_id=37&page_id=37&masterids%5B%5D=28093969&masterids%5B%5D=24358028&masterids%5B%5D=21149760&masterids%5B%5D=26301098&masterids%5B%5D=7944615&masterids%5B%5D=21446124&masterids%5B%5D=27620735&masterids%5B%5D=8830329&masterids%5B%5D=19685802&masterids%5B%5D=29658895&masterids%5B%5D=24878538&masterids%5B%5D=19822841&masterids%5B%5D=17008368&masterids%5B%5D=17631073&masterids%5B%5D=8894518&masterids%5B%5D=18843759&masterids%5B%5D=18941661&Compare+Selected+Products.x=27&Compare+Selected+Products.y=12
There's a list of monitors for about $170-$230.
If you search for DVI and <12ms on pricegrabber under the LCD monitor heading will yield some other results as well.

To each their own, but some criteria to look at when buying a monitor are:

Does it have HDCP? Here's a link about it from one of my favorite websites.
http://arstechnica.com/articles/paedia/hardware/hdcp-vista.ars

Contrast: There are lists of 500:1 ratios, but I try to aim for 700:1 or 1000:1. (means richer, darker blacks) 500:1 isn't bad, but it means more light leaks through and into your eyes. The picture looks a bit more faded and your games not quite as sharp. It usually means you have to find a good balance of brightness and vividness to get a picture you can live with.

Resolution: This is really up to you. If you want widescreen, go for it. The more pixels generally the better. Today's "standard" is probably 19"
Some might prefer a 20.something incher to get the WS. Remember that "bigger" is better, but not if another inch doubles the price, or results in bleeding (slow response time).

One more thing, speakers add to cost...and monitor speakers suck. I look for ones without them. Make sure you read any reviews you find, and search for some professional reviews online, like CNet or Tom's etc. Any info you find helps you weigh in your decision. Research is everything and the ultimate decision is yours alone to make. We ALL use different monitors. If there was ONE that truly was exceptional for the right price, we'd all be buying it.
 
Nice. Go on the Asus website to see if it has HDCP for sure. "Vista enabled" means squat. 😛 Make sure you check out Samsung monitors too, many could vouch for them (including me) as being some of the best available right now. I've owned two of them nearly a year and have 0 dead pixels.
 
Some very good advice from other people that replied already. Here's my 4th system I just built this last weekend:

Intel® Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe Processor 2.4GigHz $317.50
eVGA e-Geforce 7600GT PCI Express 256MB GDDR3 Video Card $135.60
Thermaltake W0093RU TR2 Series 500W Power Supply $74.99
2 Maxtor 6V080E0 80GB SATA (3.0Gb/s) 7200RPM Hard Drive $101.42
in a RAID0 Array
Antec P180B Super Mid-Tower Case w 11 drive bays $129.99
ASUS P5W DH Deluxe (Digital Home) Motherboard $219.99
2 Gig Crucial Tech Ballistix BL2KIT12864AA804 DDR2-800 PC2-6400 $284.99
 
Some very good advice from other people that replied already. Here's my 4th system I just built this last weekend:

Intel® Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe Processor 2.4GigHz $317.50
eVGA e-Geforce 7600GT PCI Express 256MB GDDR3 Video Card $135.60
Thermaltake W0093RU TR2 Series 500W Power Supply $74.99
2 Maxtor 6V080E0 80GB SATA (3.0Gb/s) 7200RPM Hard Drive $101.42
in a RAID0 Array
Antec P180B Super Mid-Tower Case w 11 drive bays $129.99
ASUS P5W DH Deluxe (Digital Home) Motherboard $219.99
2 Gig Crucial Tech Ballistix BL2KIT12864AA804 DDR2-800 PC2-6400 $284.99

Not bad.
That PSU just wants a stronger vid card though. I'll bet you barely use half of it's available output. 😛
Not a fan of Maxtor HDD's.
Everything else looks great. Good reference build. If he doesn't plan on OCing that mobo is still a bit high end for him though. According to some reviews, anyone not OCing should look into ICH8 and Intel's 965 chipset.
 
Ok, first off, thanks a lot folks for all the help, and I feel as if I might be even learning something!

I went over to Tiger Direct to try and build the system also. I upped the VGA a bit, and I think this build might be a winner..let me know what folks think.

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Overall it's looking like a solid build. Why the EVGA 680i? That's an enthusiast board to the max. If you want to keep your options open for SLi, though, go for it. It's a great board. As long as you get the 640mb version of the GTS, that is- the 320 won't do for SLi.

Also, I looked on Tigerdirect, and apparently it's better to skip the MB+GPU combo and buy the board and card separately. The combo is $640-30, separate is $230-15+$400-30=$630-45. $25 cheaper after rebates. And, it's only another $10 to get the Superclocked version. For an extra 76 core / 300 mem MHz, that's definitely worth it.

So, thoughts about the board aside, you should probably buy them separately and get the Superclocked.
 
Overall it's looking like a solid build. Why the EVGA 680i? That's an enthusiast board to the max. If you want to keep your options open for SLi, though, go for it. It's a great board. As long as you get the 640mb version of the GTS, that is- the 320 won't do for SLi.

Also, I looked on Tigerdirect, and apparently it's better to skip the MB+GPU combo and buy the board and card separately. The combo is $640-30, separate is $230-15+$400-30=$630-45. $25 cheaper after rebates. And, it's only another $10 to get the Superclocked version. For an extra 76 core / 300 mem MHz, that's definitely worth it.

So, thoughts about the board aside, you should probably buy them separately and get the Superclocked.

I agree. TigerDirect has some good deals, but they are a little pricier than NewEgg and ZipZoom usually. Those are the two I buy from the most, followed by sites like CheifValue, TigerDirect, eWiz (newer), and others I've come to trust. It often comes down to who has the better service between the companies, but if you don't require their service I guess it doesn't matter. Most companies will let you RMA most parts for a short time, which is why you don't want to buy a part and then not use it right away to see how it works. Parts sometime either give out within their first month or work as intended, and it's easier to RMA than it is to pull out the old warranty.

Try to find a cheap motherboard (not too cheap) with the ICH8 controller and the 965 chipset. A board with these will suit your needs best I think.

I'm posting a ton of links right here from Tom's with motherboards and information to consider. Read up!

Pertaining to mobos:
This first one is especially for you...
http://www.tgdaily.com/2005/12/29/intel_ich8_ic9_preview/

http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/11/13/shootout_at_the_core_2_corral/
http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/11/22/four_microatx__mobos_for_core_2/
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/02/13/amd_crossfire_xpress_3200_chipset_for_core_2_rolls/

More about Vista:
http://www.tomshardware.com/2007/01/29/xp-vs-vista/

Do it yourself section of Tom's Hardware:
http://www.tomshardware.com/howto/howtodiy/

Hope that helps!

Not to confuse you more, but I'd switch out your PSU, your mobo, check other places than TigerDirect, and you can get 8800GTS's for $289 now.
Try to steer clear of the 80mm fans, even if you don't you can get them cheaper. You can find an even cheaper case as well. I thought the one I picked out was perfect for ya. :roll:

I use froogle, pricegrabber, and some of the main sites when comparison shopping. Pricewatch, etc...there are a ton of others too.

I also don't know if anyone answered your question about what OCing is. Overclocking (OCing) is running your components, namely your CPU, Memory, Graphics card at higher speeds (using more voltage) than what they are originally set at. OCer's take a risk of voiding warranties, wearing out parts sooner, and damaging components, but it often pays off. They can buy a cheap part and get speeds that equal those of more expensive parts. To do this, they often have to change out the stock cooling that comes with their parts, as pumping more electricity through a component results in more wasted energy which is dissipitated as heat. The average user can benefit from learning how to OC, but it can be a tad tricky to figure out and do right. There are many here who could try and help you with that once you get your build going. Most likely, the motherboard you buy will provide you with some small amount of overclocking abilities. My advice? Don't worry too much about it. It's often not worth the risk and requires a small but more depthy understanding of computers. The computer you build will be just fine. Overclocking tends to be more for rich speed enthusiasts and poor college kids. 😛
 
I just realized I've been confusing two seperate new builder threads...so I'm going to link from one to the other in hopes that both new builders can benefit from advice given in both threads.

Here's the other thread, take a look Kolorean. Might help you out, as I believe some of what I wrote there may've been intended for you...
You'll see this same post reversed in the other thread.
Thread Link:
http://forumz.tomshardware.com/hardware/Lady-help-WOW-ftopict225762.html
 
I feel like I have been at it for months, but I have been taking everyone's advice, reading, play poker (funds), and using others ideas and builds.

This is what I have come up with, it involves me using parts from my ABS system, I am keeping the Case, it's Anatec, has 4 80mm Fans, room, and good air flow. I am also keeping my CD and DVD drive, as I can't see a reason to go and upgrade them. I am going to use the hard drive I have in, as the slave, to boot and use the OS (Windows Home XP). I don't want to try Vista yet. The main game I play has some Vista issues (Vanguard).

Can everyone take another look, I know you must be sick of me by now:




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I went back and forth about it, but in the end, I figured if I am not running SLI, go with the bigger of the two. Does the Power Supply look ok? This is one area where I haven't been able to get a good grasp on what exactly I need, what's good.
 
http://nvidia.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/nvidia.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=2008&p_created=1168273396&p_sid=pePj-xvi&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MiZwX3Byb2RzPTAmcF9jYXRzPTAmcF9wdj0mcF9jdj0mcF9zZWFyY2hfdHlwZT1hbnN3ZXJzLnNlYXJjaF9ubCZwX3BhZ2U9MSZwX3NlYXJjaF90ZXh0PTg4MDArUG93ZXI*&p_li=&p_topview=1

There are rumors going around about that being a bit high. Find a quality PSU that has at least required 12-volt line rating and you'll be fine. Your 12v line is often the same as the 6-pin connector for your card. Some cards use molex in fact. Don't buy anything under 400w for sure.

Here's a piece of an article from CNet. I'll include the link below it.

To power a single GeForce 8800 GTX card, Nvidia recommends a 450-watt power supply in a PC with a high-end dual-core chip and a typical combination of internal hardware. But the trick is that the power supply must have two PCI Express card power connectors to plug into the two sockets on the back of the card. Most modern power supplies should have the necessary connectors. If you want to add two 8800 GTX cards in an SLI configuration, however, you've got a challenge on your hands.

Nvidia hasn't released a driver that will run the GeForce 8800 GTX in SLI mode as of the time of this writing, but it may have one out soon. Thus, we didn't get to test it, but Nvidia did share the power supply specs with us. To run two GeForce 8800 GTX cards in SLI mode, Nvidia recommends at least a 750-watt power supply. But some of the recommended models on its SLI compatibility list go as high as 850 and even 1,000 watts. We suspect those higher-wattage recommendation will allow you some headroom for adding multiple hard drives and optical drivers, as well as very high-end quad-core processors. Still, it's clear that building a next-gen SLI rig will be no small undertaking, at least for now. Heck, many midtowers PC cases are too small to accept a 1,000-watt power supply.
Quoted from: http://reviews.cnet.com/Nvidia_GeForce_8800_GTX/4505-8902_7-32132889.html
Retrieved 3/2/07.
 
I have an Enermax Liberty 620w and another 500w one. They have 2 rails rated at 22amps. That's 44amps combined. That's actually rated a bit higher than what they can output I believe, but I'd feel comfortable running SLI with my 620w with a pair of 8800 GTS's in that SLI system, perhaps even GTX's if I minimized my hard drives and so on. Adding extra hard drives, lights, fans, etc...basically anything that uses the molex or sata power connectors will add to your 12v rail load. With just one card, a 500w PSU should be fine if it has at least 30amps on the 12v rail. In truth, 28amps might be enough, provided the PSU actually outputs 28, but many companies overrate their PSU's, or the rails can peak at that amperage but can't sustain it. 30 is likely a safe bet. The trick is to find a solid PSU by doing research on a likely candidate. Read a few solid reviews that measure the output on the rails over a period time. Another thing to note before I'm done is that the GTX requires TWO PCI-E 6 pin connectors (not molex but a 2x3 connector) However I believe that the 8800GTX should come with some sort of molex to PCI-E adapter. The Enermax Liberties are modular, and have 2 available colormatched 6 pin connectors you can use. As seen here...

(6pin connector) http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=118&image=1

Hmm, not sure what that 8pin connector is for? Oh well, that was their newer Infinity PSU. Not real familiar with those.

Here you can see it on the Liberty that I have, plugged into the PSU end.
http://www.enermaxusa.com/catalog/popup_image.php?pID=82&image=2
If you look underneath the red connectors you can just make out the stamped in letters "PCI-E" It's pretty hard to get them confused. Red goes to red, and everything that ISN'T a video card connects using all black connectors.

If you don't have enough power, you may get a short list of complications including but not limited to...application crashes, PC crashes, artifacts, visible lag in a game, etc. Having too little power supplied to an electrical component is actually more dangerous than having too much.
 
So what do you think about the power supply I picked out:
APEVIA ATX-AS600W-GN ATX12V / EPS12V 600W Power Supply - Retail
Item #: N82E16817148024

Is that enough, too close or plenty for the system. How about the brand?

Last question then I am placing my order.

The memory I picked out, good brand, fast enough, better options?