[SOLVED] New 12th gen PC build running W10, but freezes.

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Isaac Zackary

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Aug 11, 2020
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The computer will just freeze. Sometimes with the screen on and sometimes it turns off. It does so about 10 to 15 minutes or so after turning it on forcing me to force a reboot (hold down power button or unplug and replug followed by a reboot).

This is what I've put together so far (SFF build):

MB: Gigabyte H610M S2H DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 (new)
CPU: Core i3 12100T (used)
RAM: Crucial CT8G4DFS832A 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL22 (new)
PSU: Silverstone SST-TX300 300 W 80+ Bronze Certified TFX Power Supply (new)
Storage: 500GB Seagate 7200 RPM HDD (used)
(Internal graphics)
I'm running it out through HDMI to my 1080p television (Vizio d43n-e1)

I got Windows 10 on and went to Windows Update and ran that a few times (rebooting and all) until it finished. I also installed the base Gigabyte application that only suggests installing other Gigabyte applications, but I haven't installed any of those, nor any other apps.

I also have a used Pioneer BluRay drive hooked up, also an internal speaker, the front power button, and the power and HD LEDs all hooked up. Also a Noctua case fan (Noctua NF-A6x25 17.18 CFM 60 mm Fan) and a Noctua CPU cooler with fan (Noctua NH-L9i-17xx 33.84 CFM). Also a PS2 keyboard and trackpad and a wireless USB mouse.

The case is the ECE0229LP by Evercase in case that makes any difference. And yes, I'll be installing a floppy drive (already got it in, just not hooked up).

Now I'm going to change the HDD for a NVME drive later, but I just wanted to get this running and make sure everything works. I will be testing my wife's SSD (Crucial MX500 1TB SATA) with a clean install of Windows 10 from out of her laptop since I have that on hand. (I'll have to back up her drive first of course). But if that's not the problem how do I go about troubleshooting if it's the CPU, the RAM the PSU or the MB especially before the month warranty expires on the CPU?
 
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Isaac Zackary

Commendable
Aug 11, 2020
213
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Summary:
  • Two different drives: still crashes
  • Two different PSU's: still crashes
  • Memory tests don't show any problems
  • It crashes with Windows Installer, it crashes with MemTest86
  • No GPU, no peripherals other than keyboard, mouse and display.
What's next?
  • Is it the CPU?
  • Or is it the Motherboard?
  • Or could it still be something else?
    • Would it be best to just send both the motherboard and CPU back in for replacements?
    • Should I reflash the BIOS?
    • Or how do I go about figuring this out? I don't know of anyone with a gen 12 or 13 CPU that I could try.
 
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Summary:
  • Two different drives: still crashes
  • Two different PSU's: still crashes
  • Memory tests don't show any problems
  • It crashes with Windows Installer, it crashes with MemTest86
  • No GPU, no peripherals other than keyboard, mouse and display.
What's next?
  • Is it the CPU?
  • Or is it the Motherboard?
  • Or could it still be something else?
    • Would it be best to just send both the motherboard and CPU back in for replacements?
    • Should I reflash the BIOS?
    • Or how do I go about figuring this out? I don't know of anyone with a gen 12 or 13 CPU that I could try.
Since it seems to crash quickly when trying to install windows look through the bios for a sata mode setting and set it to ahci.....test.

Try a different sata port on the mobo....test.

Try a different sata data cable....test.

I assume with the psu swap that the disk power cable was swapped.
 
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Isaac Zackary

Commendable
Aug 11, 2020
213
12
1,595
Since it seems to crash quickly when trying to install windows look through the bios for a sata mode setting and set it to ahci.....test.

Try a different sata port on the mobo....test.

Try a different sata data cable....test.
Ok, I'll try that and on all 4 SATA ports.

But seeing how it also crashed during the MemTest running off only the USB I don't have my hopes up.
I assume with the psu swap that the disk power cable was swapped.
You assume correctly.

I also swapped it back to the other PSU with it's cables and it seems to make no difference what PSU and power cables I'm running. I go to install Windows and it hangs up at about the same point with either PSU or set of cables.

OTHER INFO
One of the times I tried booting into the Windows Installer on the USB, it did not show anything on the screen but beeped the internal speaker 5 times. I then forced it off and restarted and it restarted just fine until it froze later on as ususal. I hadn't changed anything.

I can't seem to find anything in the MoBo manual about the meaning of the beeps.
 
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Isaac Zackary

Commendable
Aug 11, 2020
213
12
1,595
Update:
  • Tried a different SATA data cable (from a working computer) in the same port -STILL CRASHED AND REBOOTED
  • Tried that different SATA data cable in a different port (2nd port) -STILL FROZE
  • On 3rd SATA port on MoBo and it... CRASHED AND REBOOTED
  • On last SATA port it... opened up a portal to another universe. Just kidding! It CRASHED AND REBOOTED.
All these were attempts at installing Windows.
 
Update:
  • Tried a different SATA data cable (from a working computer) in the same port -STILL CRASHED AND REBOOTED
  • Tried that different SATA data cable in a different port (2nd port) -STILL FROZE
  • On 3rd SATA port on MoBo and it... CRASHED AND REBOOTED
  • On last SATA port it... opened up a portal to another universe. Just kidding! It CRASHED AND REBOOTED.
All these were attempts at installing Windows.
It was just a shot in the dark test.

Did you set the sata mode to ahci?
 
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Isaac Zackary

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Aug 11, 2020
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It was just a shot in the dark test.

Did you set the sata mode to ahci?
Oops! Let me check!

I can't seem to find any SATA/AHCI settings in the BIOS.

There's a SATA configuration menu, but it only allows me to enable/disable the SATA controllers, the Agressive LPM Support, each port, DevSlp, and Hot Plug.

The BIOS has a search function and I typed AHCI and nothing came up. The word "SATA" shows all the things I've already mentioned and nothing more.
 
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Oops! Let me check!

I can't seem to find any SATA/AHCI settings in the BIOS.

There's a SATA configuration menu, but it only allows me to enable/disable the SATA controllers, the Agressive LPM Support, each port, DevSlp, and Hot Plug.

The BIOS has a search function and I typed AHCI and nothing came up. The word "SATA" shows all the things I've already mentioned and nothing more.
Should be in the same area as the raid option.
 

Isaac Zackary

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Aug 11, 2020
213
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The CPU I got in used condition off eBay for $100. I already told the seller I'm having problems and they said they'd be fine with a refund or a replacement.

A Core i5 12400T costs $70 more over on Amazon, but brand new and it's rated at just slightly higher power draw (74W instead of 69W Max Turbo Power).

I'm wondering if it would be best to send back the Core i3 and get the brand new Core i5 I mentioned.

The MoBo I got from Amazon and it has a 3 year waranty, so I should be good to go there.
 
The CPU I got in used condition off eBay for $100. I already told the seller I'm having problems and they said they'd be fine with a refund or a replacement.

A Core i5 12400T costs $70 more over on Amazon, but brand new and it's rated at just slightly higher power draw (74W instead of 69W Max Turbo Power).

I'm wondering if it would be best to send back the Core i3 and get the brand new Core i5 I mentioned.

The MoBo I got from Amazon and it has a 3 year waranty, so I should be good to go there.
Your call as to the direction you go just keep your eye on that small psu you have.
 
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Isaac Zackary

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Aug 11, 2020
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Update:

  • I have started the return on the MoBo. The replacement should be in by Monday, hopefully.

Question:

  • Should at least try out the current CPU with the new MoBo and see if that solves it,
  • Or is there a chance that if the CPU is deffective it could damage the MoBo and so I should order a replacment CPU too before trying to reassmble?

Other less important updates:
  • I got the other PSU and SATA cable back into the old computer (2nd Gen Core i7).
  • I am now using that computer to restore the image to the SSD I took out of my wife's laptop. Let's hope this works!
 
Update:

  • I have started the return on the MoBo. The replacement should be in by Monday, hopefully.
Question:

  • Should at least try out the current CPU with the new MoBo and see if that solves it,
  • Or is there a chance that if the CPU is deffective it could damage the MoBo and so I should order a replacment CPU too before trying to reassmble?
Other less important updates:
  • I got the other PSU and SATA cable back into the old computer (2nd Gen Core i7).
  • I am now using that computer to restore the image to the SSD I took out of my wife's laptop. Let's hope this works!
Your call about the new mobo and old cpu.....flip a coin.
 
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Isaac Zackary

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Aug 11, 2020
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Unimportant update:

I got the replacement MoBo in. Sadly I won't be able to test it out this week.

I also got in yet another storage, a Samsung EVO NVME drive, which is the one I had ordered for this computer.
 

Isaac Zackary

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Aug 11, 2020
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Here we go again!

So I finally got time to install the replacement MoBo and so far so.....

It froze!

37% into the "Getting files ready for installation" and it froze!

One thing I'm doing differently is I'm now trying a new M.2 drive. This one, just like the RAM and CPU are on Gigabyte's qualified vendors list for this particular MoBo.

So it looks like it's the CPU. Time to change that!

I got a return going for the CPU. Instead of getting it replaced with another used CPU I instead ordered a brand new Core i5-12400T. Sadly it won't be in for another two or three weeks.
 
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Isaac Zackary

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Aug 11, 2020
213
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Victory?
So I got the replacement CPU, and so far it's not freezing. I've gotten to install Windows, which I couldn't do before. I'm still nervious. I'll just have to keep running the computer until I'm sure it won't freeze up like before.

One sad note, in trying to keep this computer on the cheap side I had purchased an OEM Windows 10 Key from Kinguin. Well, now it says Windows is not activated and says the Key won't work because it was used on another computer, the motherboard and CPU that I had sent back for replacement.

Oh well. Now I have to decide whether I pay another $35 for another key from Kinguin, or get one from Microsoft. Windows 10 Pro is $200 and Windows 10 Home is $139. I guess I'll pay the $60 more for the pro version. I was hoping this would be a $400 build, but the Windows key just kind of blows it out of the water anyway, and I've taken so long to get this computer even running I just don't care anymore.
 

Isaac Zackary

Commendable
Aug 11, 2020
213
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Update:
It froze again this morning. I believe this is the first time since I got the new CPU in, so after a month of no problems whatsoever.

It was playing a video and the screen suddenly froze and the sound just buzzed until I forced the computer off. There was no reaction to mouse or keyboard movements. It started back up and is working again just fine. We'll see how long until another freeze. Hopefully this was a false alarm.
 

Isaac Zackary

Commendable
Aug 11, 2020
213
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It Bluescreened and didn't recognize neither the M.2 nor the hard drive so went into the BIOS. Simply unplugging and replugging solved that and it started back up.

I don't know why it did this, I did recently update the BIOS, so maybe there's a bug in the new BIOS. We'll see.

The other two freezes I think were related to me trying to use HackBGRT. I say that because it would change back to the original Windows 10 logo, and since I've then I haven't tried to use a custom logo and I haven't had any issues until today.