I was able to repair a broken USB 3.0 header pin on my brand new ASRock Z87E-itx.
When I disassembled the case to investigate why a USB port on the front of my case wasn't working, I noticed that a USB header pin on the motherboard had been crushed and bent by the USB pug. I tried to straighten the pin, but it just snapped off!
Fortunately, the repair was actually quite easy.
I used a thin flat-head screwdriver, small needle-nosed pliers, a thin long nail, a soldering iron, solder, the stem from a LED diode (as a replacement pin), a pocket knife, scissors, and a rectangular eraser (the pink kind that school children use).
Here is what I did. If you try this approach, it is at your own risk.
Examine your motherboard USB header to see if the pins are attached to it mechanically, or if they are simply "pierced" or "skewered" through the black plastic rectangle on the motherboard. If they are attached mechanically, this fix won't work for you.
Now, using a thin flat-head screwdriver, carefully pry up the black plastic rectangle (the one that the pins are embedded into) on the motherboard. Be sure to note which side the notch is on, so you can replace it correctly later. As you pry, start from the left, and slowly work your way incrementally to the right, prying up ever so slightly and very gently. (At this point, you should notice that the pins just pierce or skewer the plastic rectangle that accepts the header plug and holds it in place. The plastic itself is somewhat flexible, and the only thing holding it down are the pins themselves).
Once the plastic piece is high enough, you should be able to fit a small round tool, such as a thin long nail, underneath it between the pins, so you can also apply pressure to the rear of the plastic, as you pry it up. Continue prying the back and front of the plastic, incrementally from left to right.
Eventually, you will be able to remove the plastic. Work patiently, and be careful not to bend the pins. Once the plastic piece is removed, set it aside (and remember which side the notch that matches your USB header plug is on).
At this point you will see that the broken pin extends a little above the motherboard.
Next use a soldering iron to carefully heat ONLY the joint on the back of the motherboard where the damaged pin sits. Simultaneously, use your thin needle-nosed pliers to grab the broken pin and pull it off the motherboard. If you can't grab the broken pin with your needle-nosed pliers, push the stub of the broken pin from the back of the motherboard with your hot soldering iron. This will force the pin higher so you can pull it off as you apply heat from the back.
You must NOT touch any of the other pin joints with the soldering iron as you do this, because the solder will melt quickly, and the other pins will suddenly shift and will no longer be straight. Additionally, be careful not to bend or break any of the other pins with your pliers. You kind of have to pivot the mother board on your desk, as you apply the soldering iron to the back with one hand, while you tug on the broken pin with your other hand. Be casrful and use safety precautions with the hot soldering iron. You might want to ask someone to hold the motherboard verically as you do this step.
It doesn't take long to get the pin out. (As a matter of fact, removing and reinstalling the plastic piece are the hardest parts).
Once the pin is out, use a pair of scissors to snip the leg off of a brand new LED diode. Cut off about a 1" or 2 " length, so it is easy to work with.
You can get LED diodes for a couple of bucks from your local electronics store. (I considered using stiff copper wire, but the diameter was too thick, and thinner wire is not stiff enough). In addition to being thin and stiff, the LED diode leg accepts solder very easily. The pins on your mother board USB header are copper (coated ?), but the diode wire is a grayish metal. However, I think this particular metal wire should be fine for this repair.
Next, place the motherboard upside down, heat the joint where the new pin should go, and simultaneously push the replacement 'pin" through the hole using your needle-nosed pliers. It will go in very easily, since there is very little solder on the board from the factory. Again, be careful **not to melt any of the other joints**, or you will mess up your entire USB header. Fixing one pin is OK, but trying to repair many of these will be difficult.
After you push it in, let the new pin extend above the other pins on the top side of the motherboard, and let it extend above the other joints on the back of motherboard as well. (We'll take care of this later).
At this point, your pin may not be very straight. Now heat the new pin from the back of the motherboard near the joint, and melt very little solder along its length. The solder will run down the pin and settle onto the motherboard, making a nice joint. Try to straighten the pin as you do this, because this will be your final setting.
If some solder ran through the hole and pooled at the base of the pin on the font side of the motherboard, don't worry. Grab a pocket knife, and scrape the solder from the edges of the pin on the topside of the motherboard. You can almost cut the solder with the knife (as long as it's very little extra solder), but be careful not to apply too much pressure, otherwise you will break your motherboard. The base of the pin must be smooth and free of solder, because it has to to fit back through the tiny hole in the plastic piece you had removed initially.
Since the new pin extends above and below the motherboard, we need to trim it. Using your scissors, cut the top of the pin so it is level with the original pins. (It may be marginally higher since you can only get so close with scissors, but that won't matter). Likewise, snip the pin on the back of the motherboard, close to the new joint you soldered. Note that the LED diode wire cuts easily enough with a pair of scissor. (You can't use your needled nosed pliers for these cuts because the pliers won't trim close enough. Additionally, the scissor leave a cleaner tip, so the new pin will fit smoothly into the USB header plug).
Next, make sure your new pin is straight and parallel to the other pins. Make a final adjustment with your needle-nosed pliers if necessary, but you shouldn't have to bend too much, if you were careful in the previous steps.
To reassemble, place the plastic rectangular piece above all of the pins, making sure the notch for the plug is positioned on the correct side. Gently push the pins pack through the plug. Start with one side, ensue the other pins line up, and push them back in as well. Once all of the pins are pressed into their original holes, the plastic will be suspended above all of the pins. Check that no pins are bent and that they are all in their respective holes.
Now you will need something flat to push the plastic down onto the motherboard, as the pins pierce the plastic through their original holes. Place your soft eraser on your desk beneath the USB header solder joints of motherboard (so you have something to push against), and use the flat object to apply **EVEN** pressure onto the plastic. You must press on the entire surface, so the plastic piece goes sown evenly without bending any pins. (You want it to go down to like an elevator, as you push gently; it shouldn't wobble, because you will bend your pins or damage your motherboard).
When you are done, the black plastic rectangle will be seated on the motherboard with all pins embedded in it, including your repaired pin. It will look and work "as good as new!"
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