Question New build: Known good Monitor, GPU, PSU -- no video but does turn on, no PCI power?

[Kenji_03]

Long story with parts and such below, but the short story is this:

3-4 years ago I had built PCs. I have 4 working machines I built in the house presently. This is the first new build in 3-4 years and I have no video out on a known good monitor with a known good graphics card. The fans on the Graphics card won't even spin up in this motherboard, but when put into my other towers it runs just fine. Anyone have any idea what I missed?

Long Story:

Got the Intel Arc A750 as a present from a friend/coworker. Previously had an Nvidia GTX1070TI, so I put it in my old build and it ran -- but clearly wasn't happy with the extremely outdated CPU (AMD FX-8350). Graphics card did run, but clearly needed a newer CPU in order to work, needing "resizable Bar" or ReBar enabled. I'm using my known good power supply of 800 watts.

I thought I did my due diligence in ensuring everything was compatible. The RAM speed is the maximum the Mother Board allows before needing to overclock (5600). It is the maximum supported size for a single stick (32gb). The Motherboard supports the LGA1700 chipset the CPU uses, and it supports the generation of chip the CPU is. Website even says Motherboard is compatible with the specific GPU.

I'm dumbfounded at what the issue could be. I have never had this kind of issue when building a PC before except with the graphics card was faulty, and that isn't the case as it works when plugged into my old rig. I picked a "KF" CPU as I figured I wouldn't need the onboard video, as again I've never needed to use the onboard video in 11 years of using/building PCs. But now I feel like that extra $30 would help me figure out what's going on. Should I have gotten the K series instead of the KF?

What I've tried:

• Tried a different known good GPU, same story.
• Tried putting it into the other PCI slot and the GPU won't spin up. (It's so weird that the fans on the GPU won't spin)
• Tried moving the RAM stick to different slots.
• Tried removing the M.2 and SATA III
• Double checked that the risers are in the proper locations
  • Three of the risers do not have a screw holding the motherboard to them, but I doubt this is the issue. Didn't want to fully screw it down until I knew it was working.
• Tried reseating everything except the CPU

What I haven't tried

• Reseating the CPU
• Removing & reapplying thermal paste (in case of overspill)
• Checking the CPU orientation (arrow on bottom left of CPU and motherboard's arrow matched, so shouldn't be issue).
• A different CPU fan (one didn't come stock, but I couldn't imagine the after market one I got could be an issue).

Parts: New

Mother Board: ASUS Prime B760-PLUS Intel B760(13th and 12th Gen) LGA1700 ATX https://www.newegg.com/asus-prime-b760-plus/p/N82E16813119648
RAM: Patriot Viper Elite 5 32GB 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 5600 (PC5 44800) Desktop Memory Model PVER532G56C38W https://www.newegg.com/patriot-32gb/p/N82E16820225326 CPU: Intel Core i5-12600KF Desktop Processor 10 (6P+4E) Cores up to 4.9 GHz Unlocked LGA1700 600 Series Chipset 125W https://www.newegg.com/p/3C6-008J-001G8 (12th Gen, in case you're wondering)

Parts: Known Good

PSU: [[800w]] ATX-JP800W https://www.amazon.com/Apevia-ATX-JP800W-Certified-Supports-Crossfire/dp/B01IE09DXM?th=1
GPU: Intel Arc A750 Limited Edition 8GB PCI Express 4.0 Graphics Card 21P02J00BA https://www.newegg.com/intel-arc-a750-21p02j00ba/p/N82E16814883002

 

[rgd1101]

test with a better quality psu?

 

[geofelt]

You have rediscovered why one should buy the non F version of a processor.
But that is water under the bridge.

Have you plugged in the 8 pin EPS cpu connector to the motherboard?
It provides extra power for the pcie slots.

 

[Kenji_03]

test with a better quality psu?

What's wrong with the 800w PSU? Why should that be causing a problem?

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

What's wrong with the 800w PSU?

Apevia has been known to produce lower quality units through my entire career with computer systems, ~20 years now.

at best the majority of them should only be used for lower end basic systems.
at worst they should be avoided all together.

Why should that be causing a problem?

because it likely cannot provide the stable steady power that this system requires.

the available wattage is usually not the issue, just the quality of the unit in general.

 

[Kenji_03]

You have rediscovered why one should buy the non F version of a processor.
But that is water under the bridge.

Have you plugged in the 8 pin EPS cpu connector to the motherboard?
It provides extra power for the pcie slots.

Thank you for the reply!

This is an image of the Motherboard from the manual, I do not have power plugged into both #5 locations. https://ibb.co/bBB4kQP

8 in the top left (that are labeled "CPU" on my power supply) and 24 in the right side. If there's another type of power connector that came out in the last 3-4 years on this motherboard that I do not know of, please do let me know.

 

[Kenji_03]

Apevia has been known to produce lower quality units through my entire career with computer systems, ~20 years now.

at best they should only be used for lower end basic systems.
at worst they should be avoided all together.

because it likely cannot provide the stable steady power that this system requires.

the available wattage is usually not the issue, just the quality of the unit in general.

Alright, thank you for educating me. I'll try putting in a different PSU, but the only other one I have that isn't Apevia, is 680 watts. Is that going to be enough to test ONLY booting to bios? I don't have the M.2 or sata connected, but I am pretty sure the GPU plus CPU and general motherboard draw will go over 680w.

For future reference, what are your trusted brands and why?

 

[JohnBonhamsGhost]

what are your trusted brands and why?

i wouldn't say i have a list of absolute "trusted" brands.
many of the top selling manufacturers have both great and dangerous models available.

but, there are some important factors to consider like warranty length and the type of coverage offered.
this can give you some idea of how much faith the manufacturer has in the unit and their faith that it will not damage connected components.
many claim 7 years is a good coverage, but i would never go with anything under 10 years.
looking for something that includes connected components in their warranty is also a very good sign of reliability.

usually when shopping i will compare any unit that i'm interested in with online charts or threads focused on power supply ratings.
only the top tiered units are a good starting point.

 

[35below0]

What's wrong with the 800w PSU? Why should that be causing a problem?

It's not the watts, it's the internal gubbins that make the PSU good or bad. Also the warranty. Dependable ones will offer 10+ years warranty.

While NOT an authorative list of recommendations, this is a useful guide: https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/

Seasonic or Corsair are safe bets (personal opinion), though both have cheaper and crappier units. Been using Seasonic for many years. Latest PC uses Fractal Design Ion+ 2.

No PSU is perfect. Experts find faults with even the best models. But BAD ones are so bad that they should just never be used. But they're cheap and many people don't care at all what PSU they use just as long as it's enough watts.
Edit - i should admit i was one of them. And i had a PC go bang /w silvery smelly smoke. And tears.

 

[geofelt]

What's wrong with the 800w PSU? Why should that be causing a problem?

On the data plate, it lists 698w as the max output @12v which is what modern processors and graphics cards use.
And, I bet that rating is at room temperature, not the 50c. which is common temperature inside a case.
The rating will be steady state, not the peaks and valleys that modern graphics cards can create.
I looked for an authoritative review, but came up empty.
All of the comments from those who have bought the unit were terrible.
But those comments are anecdotal.
Reading more, the A750 has a tdp of 225w.
By comparison the GTX1070 has a tdp of 150w.
It may be that your 800w psu is having a problem with the increased power requirement.
If you look at a modern 850w psu like the seasonic focus GX850, you will see that it can deliver 840w @12v.

https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-850-gold-ssr-850fx-850w/p/N82E16817151188

 

[Kenji_03]

Alright, This is the PSU I am thinking of ordering to try and see if it fixes it, any problems with it? I am going for 1,000 w as I do plan on putting a lot more components into it once it's up and running over time.
ASUS TUF Gaming 1000W Gold (1000 Watt, ATX 3.0 Compatible Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Gold Certified, Military-grade Components, Dual Ball Bearing, Axial-tech Fan, PCB Coating)

On the data plate, it lists 698w as the max output @12v which is what modern processors and graphics cards use.
And, I bet that rating is at room temperature, not the 50c. which is common temperature inside a case.
The rating will be steady state, not the peaks and valleys that modern graphics cards can create.
I looked for an authoritative review, but came up empty.
All of the comments from those who have bought the unit were terrible.
But those comments are anecdotal.
Reading more, the A750 has a tdp of 225w.
By comparison the GTX1070 has a tdp of 150w.
It may be that your 800w psu is having a problem with the increased power requirement.
If you look at a modern 850w psu like the seasonic focus GX850, you will see that it can deliver 840w @12v.

https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-850-gold-ssr-850fx-850w/p/N82E16817151188

The above linked PSU I am looking to order has a 10 year warranty, is by the brand ASUS, and while I don't see anything about coverage including components, I am asking if you think this is an accepable PSU.

i wouldn't say i have a list of absolute "trusted" brands.
many of the top selling manufacturers have both great and dangerous models available.

but, there are some important factors to consider like warranty length and the type of coverage offered.
this can give you some idea of how much faith the manufacturer has in the unit and their faith that it will not damage connected components.
many claim 7 years is a good coverage, but i would never go with anything under 10 years.
looking for something that includes connected components in their warranty is also a very good sign of reliability.

usually when shopping i will compare any unit that i'm interested in with online charts or threads focused on power supply ratings.
only the top tiered units are a good starting point.

In both cases I will be (pleasantly) surprised if the problem really is the PSU of all things.

In case it isn't, are there any other possible problems other than the PSU? I disassembled the entire thing and the CPU didn't have any bent pins, the thermal paste was not touching the MoBo. If it isn't the PSU, I will be fine having purchased a unit with even more power than I'd need (helps protect hardware not being near cap, if that info is still valid). But if the PSU arrives and it is not the issue, what are the odds the motherboard was just dead on arrival / defective? I have until Feb 20th to return if defective.

Edit: I will check back in 24 hours to see if you reply before ordering. In case there's something I don't know that is a problem with ASUS power supplies.

 

[Kenji_03]

On the data plate, it lists 698w as the max output @12v which is what modern processors and graphics cards use.
And, I bet that rating is at room temperature, not the 50c. which is common temperature inside a case.
The rating will be steady state, not the peaks and valleys that modern graphics cards can create.
I looked for an authoritative review, but came up empty.
All of the comments from those who have bought the unit were terrible.
But those comments are anecdotal.
Reading more, the A750 has a tdp of 225w.
By comparison the GTX1070 has a tdp of 150w.
It may be that your 800w psu is having a problem with the increased power requirement.
If you look at a modern 850w psu like the seasonic focus GX850, you will see that it can deliver 840w @12v.

https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-850-gold-ssr-850fx-850w/p/N82E16817151188

I am already ordering a 1k watt power supply, but question:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fzZJPF

Is this a bad website to estimate the power draw of all your parts? As even if I put every part I could possibly imagine wanting into this thing, it still (according to this website) has a maximum draw of 603 watts. So without any of the hard drives, should it really have turned on, had the lights go on, and all of that. But simply not give power to the PSU?

 

[35below0]

It's better to use several PSU calculators. One or two may be way off.

For example, i tried adding your components into this: https://www.newegg.com/tools/power-supply-calculator/
It's interersting that the wattage did not change until i added the third and final HDD. Only then did it jump by another ~100w.
It suggests 700-799w

Other calculators i've tried suggest 532w or 550w. So that all gives you a rough idea.

The PSU will only draw what it needs, however very few PSUs are able to deliver tiny amounts of power, so you'll always waste some power when the PC is idle. I think this amount is the same whether you have 1000w or 550w.

 

[Kenji_03]

It's better to use several PSU calculators. One or two may be way off.

For example, i tried adding your components into this: https://www.newegg.com/tools/power-supply-calculator/
It's interersting that the wattage did not change until i added the third and final HDD. Only then did it jump by another ~100w.
It suggests 700-799w

Other calculators i've tried suggest 532w or 550w. So that all gives you a rough idea.

The PSU will only draw what it needs, however very few PSUs are able to deliver tiny amounts of power, so you'll always waste some power when the PC is idle. I think this amount is the same whether you have 1000w or 550w.

So, 1000 watt PSU from a good vendor with a 10 year warranty: No video still. I'm assuming Motherboard is Dead On Arrival. Should I send back the CPU along with it?

 

[Kenji_03]

test with a better quality psu?

Bought a 1000 watt PSU from a good vendor (ASUS) and still nothing. Any other suggestions? Assuming MoBo or CPU is dead on arrival

 

[helper800]

Bought a 1000 watt PSU from a good vendor (ASUS) and still nothing. Any other suggestions? Assuming MoBo or CPU is dead on arrival

I would first try using the 1070 ti. The intel GPUs are new and may cause weird issues by their nature of being new products in a new industry. If you have no other recourse, I would try getting a new / different motherboard. If that does not work I would assume that the CPU is defective, which is rare but not unheard of. If you end up getting new everything and still have issues then post back! You can also try breadboarding the system, which is to say, build the PC with the bare essentials outside the case in the motherboard box for diagnostic purposes.