Question New Build /w an RGB fan flash on PSU power on but nothing else!

[WoolyMammoth1337]

HI everyone,

To preface I do have some experience building PCs but it's been about 6 years since I put my last one together. I ordered all parts and assembled based on manuals, tutorials, previous knowledge, etc.

The build is complete and at first I thought it may have been a PSU issue but given that at least one thing is firing off of a MOBO connection for a split second I think it is otherwise (I could be wrong).

Here are the following parts in question (at least to my knowledge):

GIGABYTE Z790 UD AC LGA 1700 Intel Z790 ATX Motherboard with DDR5, Triple M.2, PCIe 5.0, USB 3.2 Gen2X2 Type-C, Intel Wi-Fi, 2.5GbE LAN, PCIe EZ-Latch, Multi-Key
CORSAIR H100x RGB ELITE Liquid CPU Cooler - 32 Dynamic RGB LEDs - iCUE-Ready SP120 RGB ELITE Fans - Intel® LGA 1700, 1200, 115X, 2066, AMD® AM4 Sockets
CORSAIR HX1000i CP-9020214-NA 1000 W ATX12V 2.4 / EPS12V 2.92 80 PLUS PLATINUM Certified Full Modular Power Supply
Fractal Design Pop XL Air RGB Black TG ATX High-Airflow Clear Tempered Glass Window Full Tower Computer Case

When the power supply is turned on it doesn't seem like anything else is turning on (fans) but there is a quick instant flash of blue/green on one of the fans. I tested this a few times after disconnecting the RGB chain that goes directly into the PSU via SATA wires as well as disconnecting the case top I/O 3-pin RGB connector. This flash continues as long as the inline MOBO 3-pin (5V I assume) RGB connector is connected regardless of the others. This indicates to me that the issue is not with the PSU since it seems to be supplying power to the MOBO and in turn to the fan for a brief moment. However, I could be wrong.

I honestly could care less about the RGB stuff at this point as long as all of the fans and liquid cooling are functioning properly. There may be other connections that I did not do properly but to my knowledge everything is in order. Can anyone explain why this issue is happening and what the best fix would be? Is the power being shorted out as it goes through the liquid cooling fans?

Any help is appreciated and I can upload more pictures at any time if needed. TIA.

 

[Darkbreeze]

I would start by disconnecting ALL of the RGB stuff, and then TRIPLE check that everything on the list at the following link is 100% correct, even going so far as to unplug and then re-connect each connector just to be sure that they are lined up correctly, fully seated and that all required connections are attached.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

Thanks. I'll try this and post back afterwards.

 

[Darkbreeze]

And if that fails to shake out anything, bench testing is probably the next step. When doing so it is kind of important that you remove the board from the case because many problems might directly relate to problems with the case, standoffs, trapped screws, etc.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

And if that fails to shake out anything, bench testing is probably the next step. When doing so it is kind of important that you remove the board from the case because many problems might directly relate to problems with the case, standoffs, trapped screws, etc.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

So after a lot of work today I have made progress. I've been able to start the machine and I have 2 of the 4 case fans going (this likely just needs a reroute) although I am unsure. The liquid cooling unit seems to be running on boot (sounds like the pump is operating) but the unit that is placed on the CPU is not lighting up. However the fans are running without issue.
Furthermore as far as the motherboard LEDs go the tests go through the CPU and DRAM but then get stuck on VGA. I've attempted connecting an HDMI cable to display both to the onboard graphics and then also with the GPU installed but to no avail. The GPU fans booted and ran for about 10 seconds and then died off. I'm reading that the CMOS battery may need to be removed and placed back in as a possible troubleshooting step. Any advice is much appreciated.

 

[Darkbreeze]

When you tried the onboard graphics, did you completely remove the graphics card from the motherboard? Have you tried a DIFFERENT type of cable, like Displayport, if your monitor supports it?

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

When you tried the onboard graphics, did you completely remove the graphics card from the motherboard? Have you tried a DIFFERENT type of cable, like Displayport, if your monitor supports it?

Thanks for the fast responses.
1. Initially tried with the GPU completely disconnected.
2. I haven't tried a DisplayPort yet and the monitor I'm using is technically a TV (only one I had free to test with) but I just realized this old BenQ monitor I have has HDMI compatibility so I will try that next.

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

When you tried the onboard graphics, did you completely remove the graphics card from the motherboard? Have you tried a DIFFERENT type of cable, like Displayport, if your monitor supports it?

So I hooked up the BenQ and was able to get past the VGA hold. It was then stuck on the boot LED and nothing on the monitor. I tried using the windows boot drive on the next iteration and the boot LED was no longer stuck but nothing on the monitor and the power switch on the case stopped functioning.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, let's eliminate the case front panel electronics as a source of the problem. Disconnect ALL of the wiring coming from the front panel of the case INCLUDING the cables for the front panel USB ports. Then, try powering on using this method.

How to Jump a Motherboard Without a PWR_SW Button

Today's guide shows how to jump a motherboard without connecting the PWR_SW header that goes to the case power button. -

www.gamersnexus.net

If that fails to work, then it's clearly either a PSU or motherboard issue. I don't suppose you have another known good PSU to use for testing? Or a volt meter you can test the PSU output with?

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

Ok, let's eliminate the case front panel electronics as a source of the problem. Disconnect ALL of the wiring coming from the front panel of the case INCLUDING the cables for the front panel USB ports. Then, try powering on using this method.

How to Jump a Motherboard Without a PWR_SW Button

Today's guide shows how to jump a motherboard without connecting the PWR_SW header that goes to the case power button. -

www.gamersnexus.net

If that fails to work, then it's clearly either a PSU or motherboard issue. I don't suppose you have another known good PSU to use for testing? Or a volt meter you can test the PSU output with?

OK so 2 1/2 hours later I have some updates (good and bad):

I disconnected each front piece connection and attempted a boot iteration with the same outcome (Held on the boot LED). I made a mistake at this point and plugged the power switch cable into a two prong piece just above the correct area according to this manual: https://www.motherboardusermanuals.com/Gigabyte/Z790UDAC/Download/683804.

On page 27 it outlines the power switch pins, etc. Although not explicitly labelled there is a two pin connector just above the top left corner of the this front panel header. Don't ask me why but I attempted an iteration with this and may have shorted something or otherwise. When I did this iteration the CPU passed but then the DRAM LED was stuck on. It would go for a few seconds and then revert back to the CPU, back to the DRAM, etc. so it was basically just looping between the CPU and DRAM LED. The power switch itself did work to turn it on but then I couldn't turn it off after the fact and had to go directly to the PSU.

After this I assumed an error with the RAM so I removed one piece from the B1 slot and it seemed to fix the issue because in the next iteration I jumpstarted the board and it made it all the way to the boot LED again. I had a voila moment here and realized the monitor I was using was set to the wrong input (DVI for this old PC and needed to be on the HDMI). Very silly mistake but critical. So with the jumpstart and LED on boot I switched inputs and there was the BIOS page. The boot LED stays on but I'm assuming that may do so until I configure the BIOS and/or use the Windows boot key.

However, my issue with the RAM still stands: everything is functional with one 16GB slotted in A1 but once I put the second in it enters the loop as described above. Did I short out the battery or something? Maybe I need to configure BIOS? Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Darkbreeze]

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

Ok sounds good and thanks again. The power switch needs to be connected for this method correct? And lastly is there anything in BIOS that should be done to prevent any issues from occurring while I continue reconnecting the rest of the fans, the case I/Os, etc. ?

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, just an FYI, when you use the quote function you want to type YOUR reply OUTSIDE the box the quote is created in.

Yes, since disconnecting the front panel connections and trying to power on that way didn't help you can simply return those wires to their original positions prior to doing the hard reset.

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

So, just an FYI, when you use the quote function you want to type YOUR reply OUTSIDE the box the quote is created in.

Yes, since disconnecting the front panel connections and trying to power on that way didn't help you can simply return those wires to their original positions prior to doing the hard reset.

I was attempting to but there seems to be some automation issues when spacing for paragraphs and using backspaces. It may be my browser as well.
I think I've got a pretty good handle at this point so I will do the CMOS reset and if I can get to the BIOS without a RAM issue I'll move onto all the frontside cables.

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

So, just an FYI, when you use the quote function you want to type YOUR reply OUTSIDE the box the quote is created in.

Yes, since disconnecting the front panel connections and trying to power on that way didn't help you can simply return those wires to their original positions prior to doing the hard reset.

Also one other point: I tried the reset with another method (using a screwdriver on the CMOS_CLR pins) but that didn't work. I will try with the power switch connected this time. If it still doesn't work should the RAM be removed or reduced to one slot as a potential fix? Seems to me like it just needs to drain residual power from the MOBO.

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

So, just an FYI, when you use the quote function you want to type YOUR reply OUTSIDE the box the quote is created in.

Yes, since disconnecting the front panel connections and trying to power on that way didn't help you can simply return those wires to their original positions prior to doing the hard reset.

Apologies for the spam but I've completed a bunch more tests:

I unplugged the power supply and removed the CMOS. I kept the power switch attached and waited about 5-7 minutes while holding down the power button/continuously pressing (a variation of holds and quick presses) for about 20 seconds). I then reset the battery in and then plugged the power supply back in (could this be a potential culprit in terms of the order of operations for the reset?) and attempted the boot with the two pieces of RAM. The same problem occurred with the CPU/RAM LED loop.

I attempted with the one stick of RAM in A1 and we got all the way to VGA. I didn't have the monitor plugged in so it was fine that it was sticking here as I'm just trying to solve the RAM issue. I then tried another reset as I did above here except I tried removing all the RAM as well when everything was disconnected. I reinserted the piece from B1 into A1 to test to see if it was a specific piece and the MOBO made it to the VGA light again so that isn't the issue. I powered down again inserted the other piece of RAM in B1 and had the same failure occur.

I'm not sure what to do at this point; I've been looking at other videos and tutorials and some have even mentioned that modern boards and Gigabyte specifically require power to be circulating to do a reset (

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8w49683fGMg
). However, in that video the guy is saying that is completely wrong. Is it possible to boot with the one stick of RAM and restore factory defaults in the BIOS to see if that makes a difference as well?

Also this post displays as outside the reply box with proper spacing for paragraphs so let's see if it reflects.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, so you went so many directions in that post I'm not even sure what your actual question is now. LOL.

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

Ok, so you went so many directions in that post I'm not even sure what your actual question is now. LOL.

To summarize I've tried a few CMOS resets. I can get to BIOS with RAM in A1 (either piece of it) but when I insert the second piece I get the CPU -> DRAM -> CPU loop and the power switch will work to turn the unit on but not off.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, earlier you said "tried with the GPU completely disconnected." That is not the same as with it removed from the motherboard. So, was it just disconnected or did you remove it from the motherboard when you tried the onboard graphics? Because, disconnected and removed are not the same thing.

 

[WoolyMammoth1337]

I removed it from the motherboard. To clarify on that point I can get all the way to BIOS with a single stick of RAM and the GPU inserted and using the HDMI connection.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, you can get into the BIOS? But you can't boot to a flash drive with the Windows installer on it?