Question New computor build for my Weather Station

[sundancer268]

I need some recommendations for a compact cheap computer to run two programs for my Weather Station. The computer needs to be on 24/7 and constantly connected to the internet through my local Network. I am looking for Power savings, and as small of a case I can get. Integrated graphics, Windows 10 Pro x64, Norton 360 and 4 Gig Memory. I would like Raid One to protect my Data. The weather programs to run are WeatherLink 6.05 from Davis Instruments and Virtual Weather Station from Ambient Weather. Both programs are end of life and will be eventually replaced when I find something I like. I was thinking along the lines of an ITX Mother board, a small SSD for the OS and two conventional HDs in Raid One for the program. I will probably use a switch so I can use the same monitor, Keyboard and mouse on my main computer that is currently running the Weather Station. Any other suggestions as to form factor would be appreciated as the only other computers I have ever built were full ATX in Tower Cases. Thanks, Ed

 

[tennis2]

I can't imagine these programs are computationally intensive? You're basically writing small amounts of data to storage all day long, yes?

Can this be done on a Raspberry Pi? (would require external storage)

My other thoughts are mini PCs (NUC/Brix/Zbox/Cubi/etc) which use mobile/laptop CPUs. (can have a M.2 SSD and a 2.5" hdd)

Intel compute stick? (would require external storage)

AsRock Deskmini? (this is just the case, mobo, and power brick) which has 2 x 2.5" hard drives and an M.2 SSD so would be the best fit for your described needs and (because its STX) is the absolute most compact "typical" [desktop] PC you'll find.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($66.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Kingston A2000 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue Mobile 2 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($75.48 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Blue Mobile 2 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($75.48 @ Amazon)
Total: $315.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-19 12:28 EST-0500

How much data are you storing?

 

[sundancer268]

I don't think Pi will run Windows 10 x64 Pro, I want to connect this to my current network and Need to protect it from the outside world so I will also need to install Norton360 as I have on all my other machines. I have never heard of the other two options. Currently the Data occupies about 2 gig and has been collected over 10 years and is slowly growing each year. I do not know what the requirements of the replacement programs will be as I have just started researching on that front. Thank you, I will see what a NUC is and the Intel Compute Stick are and if they will work.

 

[tennis2]

2GB in 10 years?

https://www.newegg.com/asrock-deskmini-x300w/p/N82E16856158068?Item=N82E16856158068 = $170

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($66.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 CL16 Memory ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($25.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($25.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $151.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-19 12:52 EST-0500

TOTAL = $325 for everything

No HDD noise now, and that should last you 700 more years of storage capacity at your current rate.

I bet with that Athlon 3000G (35W TDP) running basically idle all the time, you could probably cool the CPU without a fan running also, for a completely passive/silent system. I'd even cap the frequency at the lowest possible setting (1.5GHz?) since you don't need much of any performance for your needs, and that will keep power consumption and heat output at the lowest possible. I'd be willing to bet you could keep SYSTEM power draw under 25W pretty easily.
I do this on my personal system in Windows during the day while I'm working when I'm only using it to play Pandora/Spotify (and keep power going to my monitors via smart power strip so I can work from my work laptop....2020 work at home arrangements...) by changing the Windows power profiles (set max CPU frequency to 50% or so). Then I put the power profiles as a desktop shortcut so I can easily access it when I need to go back to 100% max frequency for more demanding tasks like gaming in the evenings. With using an AMD APU, you'd be able to do this in AMD Adrenalin settings also, whichever you prefer.

There may be better SSDs for $5 more each, but you don't need much/anything in terms of performance. Spending more is purely for reliability/warranty.

I should probably include that Raid 1 isn't a substitution for periodic backups to cloud storage or an external hdd if the data is important.

 

[sundancer268]

2GB in 10 years?

https://www.newegg.com/asrock-deskmini-x300w/p/N82E16856158068?Item=N82E16856158068 = $170

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor ($66.99 @ B&H)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-2666 CL16 Memory ($32.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($25.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($25.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $151.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-19 12:52 EST-0500

TOTAL = $325 for everything

No HDD noise now, and that should last you 700 more years of storage capacity at your current rate.

I bet with that Athlon 3000G (35W TDP) running basically idle all the time, you could probably cool the CPU without a fan running also, for a completely passive/silent system. I'd even cap the frequency at the lowest possible setting (1.5GHz?) since you don't need much of any performance for your needs, and that will keep power consumption and heat output at the lowest possible. I'd be willing to bet you could keep SYSTEM power draw under 25W pretty easily.
I do this on my personal system in Windows during the day while I'm working when I'm only using it to play Pandora/Spotify (and keep power going to my monitors via smart power strip so I can work from my work laptop....2020 work at home arrangements...) by changing the Windows power profiles (set max CPU frequency to 50% or so). Then I put the power profiles as a desktop shortcut so I can easily access it when I need to go back to 100% max frequency for more demanding tasks like gaming in the evenings. With using an AMD APU, you'd be able to do this in AMD Adrenalin settings also, whichever you prefer.

There may be better SSDs for $5 more each, but you don't need much/anything in terms of performance. Spending more is purely for reliability/warranty.

I should probably include that Raid 1 isn't a substitution for periodic backups to cloud storage or an external hdd if the data is important.

Sounds reasonable, and along the lines of what I need, any case recommendations? I know Raid is not fool proof though it has worked on my main computer without fail since 2014 when I built this system. I have had to replace both HDD at one time as they failed though with plenty of warning in advance. I would like to figure out what data I need to back up and keep it on the NAS but, tare many files in both program directories that are changing all the time and I am not sure what needs to be kept for data recovery. My Weather Station can store 41 hours of data before I start losing information and there has been several times when I have returned from vacation to find the program has crashed. This is one reason I want to provide it with a dedicated computer I won't be messing around with affecting reliability. This is all for personal enjoyment and providing weather information to the national weather service to use as they see fit. When my family says it was hotter or wetter last year, I can confirm or deny the facts with logged information, again just for fun.

 

[punkncat]

Funny enough, and this is 'sort of' on topic....

I started casting around for a new weather program to use since WC started requiring to be whitelisted for ads. I came across Windy and one of the cooler features about it is that even within the free version I can connect to other weather stations around that are being broadcast or shared with the various services they use.
I had been considering getting a weather station to use here at home. I have installed them professionally but it was years ago.

Where is a good place to learn about the various units available and how to connect them to the NWS network (and such) ?

 

[sundancer268]

https://www.wxforum.net/index.php?PHPSESSID=1gf5ccnf2omgi8ua2pfq6qr219&
is a good site to ask questions. I have a Davis Vantage Pro 2 and have had it for several years, I have a heater on the rain gauge so it melts the snow and Ice to monitor the liquid equivalent during the winter. Expensive but in my opinion worth it. I didn't find any other station that offered heaters when I bought my unit and living in the Snow Belt of Northern Michigan, I needed it.

 

[tennis2]

any case recommendations?

The case+mobo+PSU is the bare newegg link for $170. AsRock Deskmini X300W.

 

[USAFRet]

RAID 1 is for continued Uptime.
Which you need.
It is for physical drive security, not data security.

You ALSO need a real backup routine.
Fully automated , on a schedule (updated daily?), to some other physical drive.

 

[sundancer268]

The case+mobo+PSU is the bare newegg link for $170. AsRock Deskmini X300W.

That is exactly what I want, when I read it, I just saw AsRock and thought of Mother boards, my fault for not clicking on all the links. Thank you again.

 

[tennis2]

The DeskMini X300W is $150 on newegg this week.

 

[sundancer268]

Ordered Friday, now the only thing left is Windows 10 Pro Retail. The only problem is finding a boxed package, not sure I trust the Download packages with an E-mail activation number. Number could work for a while and then Microsoft finds it is pirated and I have to look and pay again. I have a hard time having to pay $200 direct to MS and I am not sure the of difference between the OEM and Retail and the support for either and the ability to transfer the OS to a new build down the road. I won't have all the parts until early December so I still have time to get my head wrapped around it. Thanks for the help so far.

 

[USAFRet]

Ordered Friday, now the only thing left is Windows 10 Pro Retail. The only problem is finding a boxed package, not sure I trust the Download packages with an E-mail activation number. Number could work for a while and then Microsoft finds it is pirated and I have to look and pay again. I have a hard time having to pay $200 direct to MS and I am not sure the of difference between the OEM and Retail and the support for either and the ability to transfer the OS to a new build down the road. I won't have all the parts until early December so I still have time to get my head wrapped around it. Thanks for the help so far.

You do not need a "boxed copy".
A license purchased direct from MS is exactly as valid as that same license that comes in a box.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-10-pro/df77x4d43rkt?rtc=1&activetab=pivot:overviewtab

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-10-home/d76qx4bznwk4?rtc=1&activetab=pivot:overviewtab

You can create your own USB or DVD to install with, again, direct from MS.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

How To - Windows 10 clean install tutorial

If you are looking for the Windows 11 Clean install tutorial, you can find that here: Windows 11 Clean install tutorial (Click here) Otherwise, welcome to the Windows 10 Clean install tutorial This tutorial is intended to help you, step by step, to perform a clean install of Windows...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[USAFRet]

Ordered Friday, now the only thing left is Windows 10 Pro Retail. The only problem is finding a boxed package, not sure I trust the Download packages with an E-mail activation number. Number could work for a while and then Microsoft finds it is pirated and I have to look and pay again. I have a hard time having to pay $200 direct to MS and I am not sure the of difference between the OEM and Retail and the support for either and the ability to transfer the OS to a new build down the road. I won't have all the parts until early December so I still have time to get my head wrapped around it. Thanks for the help so far.

As far as OEM vs Retail....the line has been blurred significantly.
OEM is only that which comes preinstalled on a system from one of the majors. Dell/Acer/HP/etc.
A valid Win 10 license that YOU purchase and isntall can be transferred to new hardware down the road.

Anyone selling "OEM" online is lost in old terminology, and should be avoided.

 

[sundancer268]

I know direct from MS is valid, I just choke on the $200 and figure a Box that is cheaper is just as good. Glad to know the OEM is transferable, what about support differences? I see one on Parts picker for a little over $100 and i think it is the Box set, just have to check it out further. If all the Parts Picker Soft Ware is legal, it makes the choice easier.

 

[USAFRet]

I know direct from MS is valid, I just choke on the $200 and figure a Box that is cheaper is just as good. Glad to know the OEM is transferable, what about support differences? I see one on Parts picker for a little over $100 and i think it is the Box set, just have to check it out further. If all the Parts Picker Soft Ware is legal, it makes the choice easier.

It depends on WHO and WHERE it is sold from.
Box or not is irrelevant.

Support? Over the years, how many times have you had to talk to someone at MS about a Windows issue?
You get better "support" from people here and elsewhere.

We here have had to correct mistakes from "MS support" more than a few times.

 

[USAFRet]

I know direct from MS is valid, I just choke on the $200 and figure a Box that is cheaper is just as good. Glad to know the OEM is transferable, what about support differences? I see one on Parts picker for a little over $100 and i think it is the Box set, just have to check it out further. If all the Parts Picker Soft Ware is legal, it makes the choice easier.

And again, "OEM" is a misnomer regarding Win 10.

With previous versions, you could buy OEM or Retail.
Retail entitled you to call MS for "support" (for what level of junk that is worth). It also let you transfer that license to different hardware.

Win 10 has changed the rules. OEM only count with a preinstalled OS.
Something YOU buy is not "OEM".

Anyone labeling and advertising "OEM" is just glomming off ancient labeling and concepts.

 

[sundancer268]

Two weeks ago, I had level 2 support stumped and had to do a complete reinstall. Windows Defender Firewall kept shutting off and being then grayed out could not be stopped, started or restarted. Malware Bites, Norton360 and Defender all gave a clean bill of health. Also could not make changes to the BIOS. Wound up pulling tbe BIOS Battery, Power cord and resetting everything. This is what brought me to want to move my weather station off my main computer so that system would not be in any danger from me mucking around with it and loading programs and visiting the WEB. This is one reason also to go minimalist and low power on the weather station computer so it would not be tempting to play around with it. I intend to replace the main system in the next couple of years, just waiting on Intel to get off the 14 nm process. My current i7 4790K is holding its own for now so I can hold out for a while longer on the main system upgrade. Thanks.

 

[tennis2]

Thinking about this thread yesterday. How did the system turn out?

 

[sundancer268]

So far it hasn't. I could not get the computer to power up, just the power LED. No fans, no video. I could not figure out if it was the processor or the ASRock components and no one I reached out to could tell me how to figure it out. ASRock was not much help either. I sent the Computer back to Newegg and had to order the X300 series. It just arrived today and I will start to assemble it tomorrow. If it still acts the same, I will have to conclude it is the processor. This is frustrating as this is the first computer build I have that didn't work. I have built four other computers in the last 10+ years so though not an expert, not a newbie. I will post the results in the next few days. Thanks for asking, Ed

 

[tennis2]

That's a drag.

The X300W is the one with a WiFi module included it looks like. The non-W has ethernet only.

 

[sundancer268]

Well, more frustration. Computer is assembled and powered up great. UEFI BIOS is on the screen and I can go no further. The Logitech K-360 Keyboard I purchased for this build doesn't work. The Unifying Receiver is not picked up on any of my computers. I then tried to connect the Keyboard to my Unifying receiver on my main computer which has my Logitech M570 trackball hooked up. The Keyboard will not show up, I even tried the trackball on my other Laptop to see if the Keyboard will show up and connect. No go. Called Logitech and they said they will send me an E-Mail in the next 48 hours telling me the next step. If they are replacing it, it will be 10-14 days before a replacement ships out. Top it off, the ADATA USB Stick I had loaded the OS on and was I was going to copy the CD for the drivers on died, can't be picked up on any of my computers. This USB Stick had been replaced under the ADATA life time warranty in September 2017. This is the third time I have had to go back to ADATA on their crappy USB Sticks for replacement. So it looks like another two to three weeks before I can proceed any further on this. All the other Keyboards I have are PS-2 and I like them and don't want to change them so I thought the cheap Logitech would be great, just use it to install the software and then put it away and use the M570 track ball on both computers. Trackball does work great on the ARock X300W for what is is worth. So far the new OS Download is 33% complete, I expect it will finish sometime after I go to bed tonight. SLOW internet service out in the Boon Docks.

 

[punkncat]

You can purchase a cheap wired keyboard for nearly nothing almost anywhere. I almost bet your grocery store has one, lol. Goodwill will have them even less than that in stacks.

Don't let that be the hurdle.

 

[sundancer268]

Unfortunately, we haven't been going out since this COvid-19 thing started. The nearest Stores that would have that is about 25 miles away and that county has had an explosion of Covid infections so I will be waiting. It just seems ironic to me how many defective items I have had in this build. If I was not retired, I would have just gone in to the IT department of my former work place and just borrow a keyboard. They are locked down now so visitors are discouraged from coming in. I tried to stop by in April to see my former workers in the Maintenance Department and was told no visitors were allowed for the foreseeable future.

 

[punkncat]

$8 shipped with Prime.

Amazon.com: iMicro KB-IMK9 107-Key USB Wired English Keyboard (Black): Computers & Accessories