New Galaxy GTX 660 won't display

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rub3n213

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Jun 12, 2014
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So i recently purchased a Galaxy Geforce GTX 660 graphics card, and after installing it (power cables and all) there wouldn't be any signal on the monitor. I'm using a DVI cable, and i'm sure that the monitor works. I've opened up the computer and i saw that the graphics card's fan was running. I know that this isn't a PSU problem, because when i re-install the old card it does the same now. I'm pretty stumped to what the problem is, I've looked around this site and couldn't find a solution, and yes both cards were inserted correctly and firmly. There isn't any onboard graphics and i can't even get a signal to the monitor with the old card now, any ideas?
 
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Well, I should have brought that up earlier more sternly, but when someone says all cables hooked up etc as before, you kind of hate to...
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Can you boot into safe mode and get a signal? Do you even see the post info before windows or never a single thing on screen except NO SIGNAL message period now?

But yes, please give specs of the system (with model#'s of BOTH cards, monitor at least maybe board etc), and if you have another cable try it. I'm thinking it's looking at the wrong port maybe for the main monitor (your only one maybe, but I just mean it thinks it's on another port). Like if your card has a dvi, hdmi, DP, vga (or some combo of these) it may be sending the signal to another port. With speakers on do you hear it booting into windows? Is there a way to select different sources on your monitor (like my dell 24 has 4 sources IIRC changed via a button in the front). I can switch from PC to xbox etc. Maybe you went from vga to hdmi and forgot to tell monitor the new source is hdmi (again done in menu on monitor or quick access buttons on the front of like mine). We're just guessing here without more details I'm afraid.
 
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Asus P5Q PRO motherboard
4 GB DDR2 Ram
...intel duo I thing
New card is Galaxy GeForce GTX 660 PCI-E 2gb DDR5 192bit with VGA/DIV/HDMI
Old card is a GIGABYTE GeForce GTS 250
The cables are fine, I've tried a VGA one aswell but it didn work. The cables are in the right slots, every channel/cable has no signal, nothing comes up instead of blankness or "no signal", don't have any pets either. It no longer does the startup beep, no sound either, to shut it down I gotta power off by holding the power button or cutting power.

Edit,
The monitor i have is a BenQ, not sure exactly which one but its a widescreen, has 1 port for HDMI, VGA, and DIV, i am currently using DIV as i have used with the old card. It's a bit of a funny monitor, it likes to sleep, when there isn't a signal it just says "no signal" then sleeps 5 seconds later. Anyway, the monitor was sleeping, and i plugged the DIV cable (that was connected to the monitor) into the new GTX 660 while the computer was on, this woke up the monitor but then resulted in "No Signal" and then went back to sleep. Is it possible that the computer sits in hibernate mode? Or that the pce slot is messed up? Becuase it just does the same thing with the old card now.
 
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If it was in hibernate mode it wouldn't be on for you to power off holding it for 4secs. Not odd on the monitor mine do the same if no signal (as in unplug while in sleep it will notice and do the same as you said). I'm hoping you're aware of ESD and having blown something on accident (I've seen many things blown, 3 lan cards in an hour by one guy on carpet...LOL). Having said that, can you move the card to the black slot (supposedly only runs 8x but worth a test, not sure if it goes 16 when the other isn't plugged in for CF would have to check manual). I'm going off a newegg photo here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131299
No guarantee it isn't the psu just because both cards don't work now. Not saying I think it is, just a comment.

You have power plugged into the card itself correct? 660 has a plug for 6pin and maybe 8pin (if 660 TI model usually).

Also if you know how to set up the bios, you might try a clear cmos (pop out battery, then clear it with jumper or whatever that board requires) AFTER you've tried the black slot. But that's kind of last resort for me telling someone ELSE who I know nothing about. I have zero fear and have no problems living in the bios (years of adjusting in there, I can run through in a few minutes on a fresh build easily), but I'm hesitant to tell you to do this not knowing your experience level. If you built this, you probably know what you're doing in there at least enough to get it back up and running and setup defaults could get you back to a signal (stranger things have happened after swaps and incomplete posts repeatedly etc). But you know more about your skills than I do. I've certainly fixed OC'ed pc's etc like this, though today's usually have a kind of safety feature that will revert to default after X number of failed POSTS so you come back to life after a non-working OC after say 3 failed posts. Still this could get you up in this case even not being about OCing at all.

Can you give the PSU model# (not watts, but MODEL#)? If you have split rails on you might just try another rail. I like single huge rails partially because of this kind of problem. It's too hard for users to figure out how to split up the loads. Just another thought. Are we converting power here with the adapter that came with the card or just using one already built into the PSU (just one reason I'd like the model# so I can look at it at newegg or something to see the rails).

All the galaxy cards on newegg (660's) have two DVI, you said one, but if there are two swap it try the other. Probably pointless since you said one and I'm sure you'd have tried it anyway but just in case frustration is getting to you 😉

Do you have access to any other PC to try either card in? That's about it for now. I'll keep scanning my brain for fixes :)

Be sure to turn off power on PSU or pull plug if it doesn't have one (I usually do both anyway when changing the guts) before doing anything inside. Not trying to offend you here I just have no idea how much you know.
 
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None taken, I'm not very experienced in this sort of stuff. I've tried the black slot with both cards, still exact same problem, yes the cards were placed firmly into the slots hearing the clicking sound, tightened at the backplate and the power cable was inserted correctly. I've tried using both the 6 pin power plug (new card only needs a 6 pin, so did the old) and I've also tried using the adapter that came with the card, the 2 4 white pins to a black 6 pin bit, both yielding same results. I've also tried to reset the bios but still no signal going to the monitor. The power supply is an a-power 860 p4-a860, found pretty much the exact one here http://www.techbuy.com.au/p/136319/POWERSUPPLIES_800W_-_899W/A-Power/P4-A860.asp

Oh and this pc isn't over clocked, I'm pretty sure it is custom built, but in a shop about 6-9 years ago, yeah pretty old. I've kept everything exactly the same when installing the new card, and i don't have another computer to test anything on 🙁
 
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If I'm correct in what I found on your PSU you have TWO 12v rails. One 17a and one 19amp (36 total but they are split so maybe not enough on either one for the card+much room for anything else on the same rail). While a HUGE PSU watt wise it is geared for OLDER pc's unfortunately which is why most of the amps are on 3.3/5v.

http://forum-en.msi.com/faq/article/printer/power-requirements-for-graphics-cards
"The following are the minimum power requirements using a PSU with a single +12V rail. Also these requirements are for a system containing basic components (unless otherwise noted). The more add in cards and hard drives that a system has, the more amperage draw on the 12v rail."
"GeForce GTX 660 - 24A and a 450W PSU minimum"

SINGLE rail and 24a is the important parts here (so how many does the card draw itself tops?). The watts/amps have shifted heavily to 12v today and I don't believe in split rails due to the power requirements and difficulty for a user trying to figure out splits and what to put on each one. It was ok when you were just putting small amp drives on each, but today it's a major watt sucker or two in gpu /cpu. Single is preferred as noted above. I'm not guaranteeing you this is the issue (or that it got blown by putting in the higher drawing 660), but I'm worried about this with these specific requirements being called out. The only advantage I ever saw for split rails was if one blows you only lose what is on that rail (possibly), while a single you chance the whole shebang on one. But in all the PC's I've sold or built I never saw more than a stick+drive die at once and that was a severe blowout with smoke/stink and all according to the user...LOL. Thankfully it was an HP not my build :) The 2nd memory stick didn't get toasted and neither did his other drive (dvdrom or burner IIRC).

I googled "660 how many 12v amps" and it came right up. Might get more info for actual amps if looking further but you can see the possible issue here already.

Having said all that. IF I was you: I'd be asking myself how long is the RMA for a new card at the shop (some 7 days, some 30) for your money back or swap for NEW? We don't want you landing in a "send to company for USED FIXED" crap deal if you get my drift. If you have time still left before they'd tell you RMA to company pal screw your new replacement at our store, then I'd maybe try a PSU from newegg/amazon (make sure you figure ship time here!). I'd buy 500w+ with >30amp on 12v SINGLE rail (and newegg specifies the single as it is desired today, and always has been with me). Note the 780ti at 42A, so if you want room for later maybe a ways above 30, which would be around 600w for ~40+ on 12v rail.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139048&cm_re=corsair_600w_power_supply-_-17-139-048-_-Product
Recommended that yesterday to a guy over the 430 he had in his part list for a build. Very good deal at $45 with $20 rebate (64.99-20). 46amp on SINGLE 12v (25/25 on 3.3/5v rails). Even if you're wrong not a bad decision for the future. Not sure without closer look what is the difference in this model:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028&cm_re=corsair_600w_power_supply-_-17-139-028-_-Product
$50 after $20 off, but also a $12 off on top until 6/15. So $38 I guess...LOL. WOW. w/ promo code EMCPDWG62, all the same amps on the rails. So would have to dig deeper to see if it is worse than what seems to be the same for $45, just one letter in the name?...LOL. CX600 vs. CX600M ($45 model). Oops, just got it, MODULAR. So the modular is $7 more. I got my PC Power & Cooling 750CF silencer for $90 years ago on sale and it has a single 60a 12v. I bought for my coming upgrade to 20nm high-end (whatever is 780ti's replacement I guess). Just a point of reference.

You're currently dead so you have to make a move either way 🙁 Just pointing out my logic. I hate to say this (LOL), in a pinch I've gone to Fry's (liberal return policy when claiming compatibility crap) and bought a PSU or card just to test knowing I might RMA it a day or two later...I know I'm evil, but after I moved and dropped my PC biz, you sometimes have to do what you have to do right?...ROFL. If you wanted to be nice and save labor and the PSU fixes it (in this case I'd swap PSU knowing they already say you are LOWER than required on a rail) then you keep it and just toss the old PSU aside or save it for one day later to test in something. I'm leaning toward psu over a card swap due to the requirements, but no guarantee the card isn't bad. Hard to say why the OLD card is now bad too unless its the PSU and NOT the cards right? That seems more logical to me, but without getting my PHD PCI in it (a $1500 testing card for this kind of crap, boots completely dead boards etc, powerful stuff for system builders) I'm throwing darts here 🙁

I'm quick a building them so I don't mind doing that crap for even a "I'm a temporary sinner" board swap the fry's way...ROFL. I'm not sure what to tell you beyond this until you (or someone else) bounces something back at me to ponder after everyone looks at what I said 😉 It's late and I might be overlooking something but we're running out of crap to throw at the wall here 🙁 If it's just a drive to a local store for your RMA on the card that's doable too and maybe easier for you anyway. That's up to you and how much time you have on that RMA or maybe none? Is it already at ship to galaxy & Maybe past the time to return to store for new one? It's certainly easier to pop out one screw for a card than rewire the PC with a PSU. It's only a ~15-20 minutes difference to me plus cleaning up the wiring job after to make it look nicer (but I'm talking just the swap to test it, looking pretty comes last after a 3day burn-in for me) so I could go either way depending on that RMA for the card. I have no idea about the RMA policy where you bought it either which will maybe make this decision for you by default :)

I'm done blabbing here, let me know if anything doesn't make sense or you have some other questions. I'm interested in how it turns out and which way you go, and will help until the end if I can. I like problems that are not just "please hit reset sir, have a nice day". LOL. You learn nothing from those 😉 Glad to see you haven't thrown in the towel. You'll get through this; keep the faith :) Many reading a thread like this can learn from it even if it's just seeing the troubleshooting done while lurking the whole time.
RE: your not very experienced comment - You're getting more experience my friend 😉 What doesn't kill you makes you stronger or something like that. :)

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1804779/power-supply-unit-tier-list.html
Not sure where A-power is in these tiers but I'm not familiar with them (my silencer 750 is tier one).
http://www.a-power.com
I believed that was the company of the psu until finding this thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/313324-28-company-makes-power-power-supplies

If it is them, they don't sell their own label psu today but someone mentioned a china company. Guess I wasn't done blabbing 😉 Left the post up for a while digging for data here and there etc but time to post what I have here for ya in case you need a response now. I'll check back in later as I assume only the crazies or insomniacs are still up (maybe bored people on vacations like me too?)...LOL.
 
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Another point on PSU maybe being down (forgot to mention It I think), is the no beep etc now.
"It no longer does the startup beep, no sound either"...Things that make you go hmmmm...IF you are coming from power off you should get a post beep or something at least. When you let it go on for a bit do you see drive activity as if windows is firing up at all? I've had dead monitors or cards and you could still see clearly it was booting and loading data from the drives even without speakers. Replacing the bad part of course revealed it was true in cases years ago where someone had no speakers and I've even hooked up a headset in a few cases just to prove it to myself with no screen images to help (cheap headset is part of my tech bag I'd take to clients locations on the go). Just thinking out loud here and at this hour maybe not thinking very clearly...LOL

Edit: If you remember, did the beeps/sound go away BEFORE or after you reset cmos? I'm not sure which order produced this here. IF after the cmos reset it could be settings keeping you from successfully posting and with no bios to see and enter to fix it that might be explained here then. IF before cmos reset sound died, maybe we're still on the PSU might be the cause path.
 
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Ok, I kinda want to paste some of your comments into google translate but i'm catching the drift. I will try to explain a little more on what exactly i did, and the condition of the pc. So before i tinkered with it, it would do a beep 3-4 seconds after pressing the power button, and then start showing up some boot stuff on the monitor. when i got the graphics card and installed it, i hadn't used the pc for almost a day and a half, so what i did was unscrew the old one plug out the power cable, then lift it off of the pci slot (ofc after plugging everything out of the back) So then i plug in the GTX 660, screw it in, make sure it's secure and plug in the 6-pin power cable (same cable that fed power to the old card) into the gtx 660. so then i plugged everything back in and pressed the power button. i heard no startup beep, the monitor did not even wake up from it's sleep (monitor only wakes up when i plug the cable in or out of the 660 while on). and i also heard like, not a digital but physical click sound every about 3 seconds, and realized there was a cable blocking the cpu fan. so then i re-open it and move the problematic cable out of the way and try to boot it up again. No startup beep, Absolutely zilch coming through to the monitor, ZILCH. No boot logo, no boot something ZILCH. then i take out the 660 and reinstall the GeForce GTS 250 expecting it to work. Well it did the exact same thing as the 660 did, and that got me real baffled. Maybe the PSU did stuff up, but i have no idea what rails or what amperage or voltage you need for bla, i just like electrocuting people with shock pens. Then i put the 660 back in, and removed the little bios circle battery for a few minutes to reset the bios, after doing this i re inserted it and tried to boot it, still same scenario. No idea what cmos is, but its the exact same scenario ever since i tried to boot the 660 for the first time
 
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http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/301038-28-power-radeon-6850-suicide
Nobody seems to have faith in A-power. I don't like what I see and this guy had a newer model with more on the 12v rails (2011 model of 750w). I don't understand the "BEST ANSWER" selected info, as the USER post is quoting specs of two different psu models (why? His label should say what reality is) and NEITHER one of the user's quoted units has 30a on 12v and both have TWO 12v rails that total above 30a yet the best answer guy replies with this data and leadman 250w info? I'm confused by that but my comment here is really about the fact they all hate the brand, and more importantly the USER comments his own homework on the brand previous to his question says this:
"So I've been looking around and I've been reading lots of negative feedback on my Psu"

Before his post he'd apparently done homework on the brand and found what I'm kind of finding. Who are they and I think they kind of suck based on posts/threads pulled up 🙁 I hate saying that to someone but it was bought years ago and I don't think you'd get this PSU brand as a suggestion for you to buy today so I don't think I'm harming your pride pointing it out here 😉 From your comment about not being sure it's custom built you may not have even picked it to begin with and might have even bought this PC used?

There is a lot more PSU info out there today than years ago also (all users are getting wiser to the PSU issues, newegg/amazon reviews etc helps weed out junk for less technical people also), so not really a huge mistake by a buyer back then anyway who wasn't building their own PC's and doing homework on this stuff. Many were shafting users ages ago with high watt numbers etc, sort of like snake oil salesman I guess if you get my drift. There weren't a lot of us pushing PC Power & Cooling back then (or any quality gear in PSU's), and they'd mostly push whatever got someone to buy. Many shops had no idea how crappy some stuff was themselves!

Edit: Another thread same type of comments:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/313324-28-company-makes-power-power-supplies
 
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Ok so maybe the new card might of overloaded the PSU or something, only one way to find out, new PSU yay... haha. Would you recommend any? I'm after one thats good with value and has about 600w or maybe even 550, but the ones you linked up there were out of stock, actually can you explain what a modular psu is? if it is, isnt or semi, i dont get what modular has to do with a psu?
I'm thinking of this, http://www.cplonline.com.au/enermax-triathlor-eco-650w-80-bronze-modular-psu-etl650awt-m.html
 
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Sorry guess I was posting my last one while you were doing your step by step post. Forgot about the language barrier here while writing a foreign speaker books in english but translate from google if you must :)

Looking at it your post I missed before this one, by clearing CMOS I mean remove battery but ALSO need to short the jumper for about 10secs to actually get the job done.
http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P5Q+PRO&os=29
Pick your language for the manual if you don't have your original. Page 46 of 180 in english one (section 2.6, or page 2-20 jumper section) for how to CLEAR RTC RAM. There is a jumper on the board labeled CLRTC. You remove the battery (of course unplugged pc power cord on back of unit first), then move the jumper from pins 1-2 (default) to 2-3 for 10 secs with battery out and pc unplugged. Then move back to 1-2 pins and put battery back, plug PC power back in and boot. You may have done that already, but it wasn't in the post so not sure. The manuals always say do the pins, if that doesn't work do the battery+pins but I say why bother with the pins only just get it done right the first time :)

Moving on here - thanks for the steps by the way, that always helps a tech catch the little things especially if you get every detail in there if it's possible to remember it all...LOL (like shorting the pins above if you missed it). So since beeps died with new card it could be PSU (I'll get to that OUT OF STOCK shortly still reading each word in your post). Fan issue shouldn't have shorted anything but stranger crap has happened. CPU would not die due to this, it isn't even hot on boot and not working at load like in a game or something. It's not like you are waiting for days for the screen to show data with it ticking. You got right on it and fixed it.

NO BEEP though to me = NO POST success (Power On Self Test that all pc's run through at boot before moving on to booting your OS, drivers etc). That is either a CLRTC you can clear in some cases (as noted with battery+jumper above) if some setting etc messing it up and hangs it, or something is really bad here causing POST to fail. PSU, Vid, cpu, mem usually would cause it and in some cases (mem/vid) you get many more beeps (beep codes, different depending on who makes your bios in some cases, phoenix, award etc). But we're getting NOTHING here. I lean toward bad PSU in YOUR case since I doubt the cpu just up and died for really no technical reason here and mem isn't an issue probably and you likely have a good OLD card so not vid now I'd think (logically speaking IMHO). So again back to PSU if I was a betting man with no other way to test the cards in another pc etc.

IE, I have no way to test what is the best guess. PSU I think.

Electrocuting people...LOL. :) Sorry didn't mean to confuse and get too technical. If your RAIL is lower than Nvidia recommendation of 24amp (which your rails for 12v are 17a & 19a if I am correct about model# and pic I found that wasn't fuzzy) you may have issues. Thus I like a HIGH amp SINGLE rail. If this makes more sense. But doesn't matter if not, I can pick a proper one easily.

On the last sentence in that post, CMOS is just a way of saying clear the bios (battery+jumper) as noted before. It stands for Complementary metal–oxide–semiconductor but in this case just a high tech way of saying "that crap that holds the date, time, and system parameters so you can boot your PC". :)

On to the Out of stock. Sorry you must mean at your shop? Newegg has them in stock, but I'm guessing you can't buy from there or amazon then? Or just better to buy locally so lets look at your store you picked since you probably know what is best for your country for price etc.

One more detail first: Modular PSU= a PSU where you plug in the plugs you NEED only, and don't have a whole mess of lines you don't need. Like this:
http://www.pcstats.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2035
Check out that review with great pics. You can see the other side of the psu where they plug in and great pics of all the cables. How they look where they plug in differs from PSU to PSU but the idea is the same, IE - cables you can remove. Having said that I personally will deal with cables and take the time to route them and cleanly tie them down. I feel like the OLD PC Power & Cooling company used to preach - more breaks in the cable=more chance for less perf (impedance etc). Unless it gives me something awesome, I usually vote PERF and FUNCTION over stupid looks that hurt you in ANY way shape or form. I rarely vote for LOOKS and only if it's just extra cash but SAME functionality/perf. You screw with my perf/function I say screw you and your parts 😉

Checking your link/psu pick:
Good specs but dual 12v rails of 30amps each (or is it 25 each? not sure see below). Not a loser, I just like ONE HUGE rail for simplicity for the user as you don't have to figure out how to split your devices over the multiple rails. WINNER based on specs for your 24amp needs but I'd go single rail. NOT a mistake and enermax makes some good stuff, but google of it for reviews "Enermax TRIATHLOR ECO 650W review" without quotes of course and checking for major site reviews I see hardocp (good), johnnyguru (good) etc. So what do they say about it: reading now...LOL
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=338
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/04/23/enermax_triathlor_650w_power_supply_review/#.U5svH-LzKE4
Odd, your link acts like it's 50amp on 12v and no mention of TWO rails split like hardocp showing 30a each 12v1 and 12v2. Hmmm....Confused by this 🙁 Worse Jonnyguru shows the 30a is only for 700w unit, so again confused by label on hardocp pic which shows 700w specs but a 650 picture with those in the pic on the label. What the heck? Also jonny shows 700/650 same 30, but in another line says 54a total for both 12v on 650 and 700 has 58a total here. All acceptable numbers just silly labeling issues or sending different spec'd parts to different sites?

"These are passing numbers overall so that is good but when we look at other recent ~650W units we see that this unit is pulling up the rear behind the XFX ProSeries 650W, Seasonic X-660, XFX Core Edition 650W, and the Seasonic PLATINUM-660 (true some of those units aren't truly in the same class as this unit, but some are and we have few units to compare to)."
"All in all, that means we are still looking at one of the weakest offerings in the ~650W realm we have seen recently so far with this unit today."
OUCH.
" In the end, the unit survives but I am not sure that I feel the results are as good as they look on paper."
"The Transient Load Tests results for the Enermax Triathlor 650W are passing, but as with a number of other results today somewhat disappointing."
"The Enermax Triathlor 650W is a passing unit, but that is really about the best thing I can come up with overall."
They note the noise because of construction also. I think we're done, I don't need to go into both reviews. I'd move along if other options exist personally, but not terrible and your choices might be limited if only having this place to purchase from. Also they label which rail for each line for 12v etc. So better than most that I hate with multiple rails as you can easily put the vid card alone if desired on one rail and everything else on the others. Don't get me wrong this is OK if you must have $85 and only have this store to buy from (but pricey compared to other newegg it seems by a long ways! on everything psu related). Amazon has global shipping also. Are you in Australia or just buying there? Looking at pricing on your site though it is a decent deal. Again hardocp didn't say it's crap just there are better choices. It's a clear JUMP above your old one for 12v which is the new style so to speak (HIGHER 12v now required, new style).

http://www.cplonline.com.au/corsair-cx-600-v3-atx-power-supply-80-plus-bronze.html
the NON modular (better IMHO, but messy cabling, I don't buy modular, I'll deal with cables) is $95 so only 10 more. Also shows in stock like the modular one for both locations for local pickup and for shipping. 600+ reviews on newegg and that is a lot for a PSU it's a dup of the other corsair just without REMOVABLE cables (NOT modular).

"Newegg.com ships internationally to the United Kingdom and Australia. Just select your country in the dropdown menu at the top of our site."
Maybe you weren't aware of newegg shipping to Aus? That's from their faq page and pricing can't be beat unless shipping is absolutely ridiculous :)

http://www.cplonline.com.au/corsair-cx-600-modular-80-bronze-power-supply.html
Not in stock? Shows in stock in melbourne, notting hill and for shipment I guess. But at $105 maybe you want to stay in the $85 range? Is it not possible to buy from newegg at $45 for the same model after rebate from wherever you are? Is shipping to your location over $50? Tax outrageous or something? Here newegg charges me no tax though amazon does because they have a warehouse down the road in my state. Sorry I have no idea on this stuff being in USA. Single rail 46a guru3d recommended. Amazon appears higher on psu's pretty much so newegg if you can! :)

Rather than going through a bunch of models what is your price range? Is $85 tops and let me know if newegg is an option and tell me tax/shipping info so we have a comparison to your cpl shop. Is it evil after adding tax+shipping or is there zero tax from newegg for you? I don't want to pick more until we have that narrowed down really. Having said that what you had isn't a loser, I just know from the reviews there is better for similar costs. Being able to see clearly marked on the PSU which parts are on which rails I can accept it if you just want it over with 😉 But I'm showing in stock for the corsair even at cpl so not sure maybe you just clicked the wrong one or you're not getting it from the two shops they say are in stock locally and called some OTHER store they have closer to you and they didn't have it in stock?

HELP me understand what is going on and if newegg is an option etc :) Sorry for more questions. Thanks for causing me to read some recent PSU reviews though. OCZ now going down and PC Power & Cooling basically dead now since Seasonic no longer makes them since OCZ took over really, but instead Superflower stuff I'm not impressed with so far. WOW, didn't realize they went totally in the crapper in the last few years. No more recommending tried and true PCP&C 🙁 Bummer. Checked out most of the rest of the PSU list at your CPL store, not many others I'd like under $109. I really hope you just didn't know Newegg ships to AU :) MAJOR selection over there for great pricing. It's a book but hopefully not confusing and I think I hit everything you'd need to know :) Because of reading for a while this post took a bit of time (open for a few hours), so sorry if you posted something else I haven read yet.
 
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WOW, just looked at my post length...LOL. OH well, it's all useful info to people not just trash talk here 😉 I just kept going until I thought I'd covered your questions and details I thought you should know explained a few times in similar ways here and there just in case some gets lost in translation.
 
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Alright, cmos reset doesn't work either, so ill def try with a new PSU, i'll grab the corsair cx 600. Fine for my budget, just hope i don't blow it up when installing it
 
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IF you have questions about ESD or whatever I can tell you how to get around it for the most part with no gloves or wrist strap etc. Other than that you won't blow anything. If you mean the plugs, they will only go one way and into proper places really. It's not very hard, but if you're having fear, you can also google a psu install video and watch someone do it in 15 minutes or something to get a rough idea visually to calm your nerves. It isn't hard, just takes 1/2-hour if you don't know your way around and are a bit afraid. Youtube comes in handy for stuff like this big time for new builders if only to calm your fears and explain some things you don't get or don't know you should worry about. Especially if they give you details while building (guy blabbing about things to watch for etc on the way).

Newegg has videos for this too and a channel on youtube themselves with a TON of install vids. They do great work and much like I'm saying here. A pretty comprehensive install of anything they're doing (mboards, psu, vid cards, or the whole dang build). Just a thought.

go to youtube and search newegg how to build a computer (they have part1, part2 & part3). Long, well thought out vids cover the ENTIRE pc build. 2.5mil views on them. Part2 is probably the only one you want. part1 is how to pick components part 3 is installing OS etc. Part2 is ~44mins or so IIRC.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_56kyib-Ls
Nice and clear vid and can even see little things like pins missing on plugs etc as he explains them. They do a great job. Covers ESD issues too (about 6:15 minutes in). I don't like the whole testbuild on a box idea, but whatever 😉 Good info during that part, but the real part you'll looking for is about 22mins in. He's installing psu then. Most of minutes 23-31 is the board, but he discussed the cpu power etc. But from 31 on its all you and PSU until cabling is done. But if you have an 45min time block open I'd watch the whole thing just for great info along the way.

Hope this helps anyone attempting a psu or complete PC build 😉 Probably could find a better PSU ONLY install vid with more detail but anyone can do that if needed. Youtube is a gold mind for new pc builders.
 
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ESD=Electrostatic Discharge.

Like when you walk across carpet in socks and touch someone and get zapped. This kills or at least shortens lifespan of PC parts.

IF you're broke you can build the PC in your underwear...LOL. Then after unplugging PC of course to get work done, keep touching the PSU on metal parts to make sure you are discharge EVERY time you touch a part inside the PC. Just touch both hands to it, then go back to work. Touching to discharge even more never hurts. This is the CHEAP SAFE way.

http://www.esdjournal.com/techpapr/gloves/nitrile%20gloves.htm
http://www.all-spec.com/products/esd-safe_garments|gloves_and_finger_cots|glo-03/
As an example tons in the list.

Probably better served by a static wrist strap for most people, but I use both at the same time:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16899200012&cm_re=esd_wrist_strap-_-99-200-012-_-Product
Something like that one. Not saying anything about brand, just showing you what they are. You hook the clip to an UNPAINTED metal surface typically on the PSU. Then do your work on the PC. You can also do it somewhere on the case, but I prefer PSU.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB5a3mSElSw
1min vid on how to use straps. Can't tell if it's on a painted part or not, but if it is I'd just wiggle the jaws a bit to grind it in a little so to speak (somewhere that you won't see the tiny damage), if needed. Not saying you can't pass esd through the paint, I just like DIRECT to metal.

Your garden gloves are useless for this purpose 😉 IF you live in an area at or below sea level (San Francisco for example) ESD may not be an issue though I'd still do the same anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxugZ4cyf3Q
Dell youtube vid on ESD and how to avoid it. I have 2 large ESD mats also (like 8ft x 10ft for covering tables). This guy at least tells you UNPAINTED surface touched repeatedly is good, so he's saying the right stuff, pretty much straight from A+ Certification stuff. Tells you to stand, not to move much etc. Good 2.5min vid, short to the point. I approve 😉 Thanks for making me search, didn't realize dell had a channel called techsupportdell...ROFL. Not much useful for me in there, but vids like the one above are great to point to for new builders. Also handle your parts by the edges and NEVER touch chips exposed chips etc. Like in the vid the remove a mem module from the bag, unfortunately they don't hold it by the edges but instead grab it flat exposing their hand to contacts on both sides. Never touch the gold contacts either (like the edge you stick into a slot. Charge will go write into your parts, also oily/salty hands can corrode parts so again handle outside by the PCB edges (printed circuit board, the green part of the memory module etc, though today come in all colors but you get the drift here), metal bracket on cards etc. When I install a motherboard I'm grabbing it totally on the edges (never top/bottom) to insert it into the PC. Some would call all of this paranoid etc, but they just don't know their crap and are asking for BSOD's, crashing etc and usually end up blaming crap parts when really they did it to themselves. That ZAP may not show for months or even a year+. But it will show at some point usually. Best to avoid ESD zapping of your parts 😉 I hope your cards are ok 🙁 Now knowing you were unaware. Sorry I didn't start with that many posts ago 🙁

Some people get offended when you say things like that, taking it as if your calling them stupid or something. Really a person saying this is trying to save you seriously hard to troubleshoot problems either from day one or way later when it finally bites you. Everyone is ignorant in the beginning (I was too at some point on pc's). But you can learn :) Big difference between ignorant (me about cars...LOL) and stupid (can't learn squat). I can learn about cars, but I choose to stay ignorant about anything more than changing the OIL...ROFL. My dad's an ex-drag strip racer so no need to learn until he's dead...LOL. We go out together to fix things on a CAR and I do the work while he directs me. Why learn with that around? :) I pick up some stuff, but not trying to learn that work. I work on computers so I don't have to be a grease monkey :) Not knocking them, and am seriously glad some people LIKE to play in cars/engines etc! We need each other :)
 
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IF you've had static in your hair after combing it while dry you get my meaning of being CHARGED up. On hot dry days if I have to work on a PC I may even do it with a wet head (damp not dripping). We have times here where your hair is so dry even a swipe of your hair with your hand will stand it straight up with electricity. Weather here can be 105f+ for a month in summer (like last 2 weeks and for the next 2 or more). Your hair might almost feel so dry it feels kind of FAKE...LOL.
 
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It WILL work...I have faith :) You're armed with all the info you need to keep from making mistakes and that is then down to do you get a good part (not DOA or something wrong with it). Removing ourselves as a possible culprit of anything here puts the onus on them/their parts so to speak. Past that, any questions along the way of something you're afraid of doing during the install, just post, and If I'm not here, a million others are 😉 As usual I'll help if I can. I really want to see you get this going :) Take your time on the PSU swap, note where everything came from when pulling out plugs etc so you can more confidently put it back together.

Enjoy your week (or how ever long it takes to get the PSU) 😉
 
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Ok so i got the new PSU, plugged everything in properly and still did the same thing as before, so it doesn't look like the old PSU is the problem, any other thoughts? Maybe the motherboard needs replacing?
 
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Tough call. I'd rather try one of the gpu's at a friends house who has a PC first. Surely you have a friend with a PC? If everything is hooked up properly the only thing that could have happened IMHO is ESD damage to the cards or board. Replacing a vid card won't blow the other vid card, or at least that doesn't make much sense knowing it seems your PSU was not bad. Before I went through the trouble of replacing a board I'd try a card somewhere else first (and get a wrist strap at least before trying a board). IF you have to go the board route, I'd just upgrade as that cpu isn't worth wasting another board on when the socket is dead today.

I'd at least think about the new pentium G3258 unlocked dual core (which you see wins vs. AMD's quad 750 chip in toms review today) and a Z97 board. I wouldn't buy anything but Z97 today if you ever plan on upgrading to quad etc later. That chip is supposed to be $75 or something (haven't checked yet) and overclock like mad. Great gamer, as you can see in a few games even at 1080p the titan was the limiting factor with graphics maxed. Your 660 would be the limiting factor quite a bit in games so not a bad fit together.

Again though, I'd try the card somewhere else first (my neighbor etc). IF it's just the cards blown, you don't to do a board (much more work, and cards are easily tested at a friends house etc). I'm not saying which way I'd go here, just thinking simple for a new builder is all. Just in case your friend has a cheapo psu, use the lower card to try in their machine. We aren't looking to tax their system, just see if it gives SOME kind of a picture at all even if just to boot and give POST info.

What kind of money do you have to try to fix this? That might help my test order and what I'd pick (is z97/pentium out of the questoin? Is this board under warranty (3yr IIRC on your asus board)? With no beeps and new psu, probably the board or cpu. Gpu's would give a beep code if failing in some way in most cases, but if the brains (board/cpu) aren't working and we think PSU is out of the question, your cards wouldn't beep. You could disconnect everything but cpu/fan/1 stick of mem, and gpu to try. Just to get a beep code or maybe it can post then. Just some suggestions I guess. Just make sure you're touching the PSU repeatedly before moving to the next part etc. If parts are blown, you don't want to just keep adding to the problem parts. The onboard LED should be OFF during all this changing of parts too (reading your manual right now). Read section 2.1 BEFORE YOU PROCEDE section. in 2.2.1 (page 2-2 I guess, hardware information) motherboard layout, do you have the #3 plugged in to the mainboard (8pin plug for cpu)? Just a quick run here through the relevant stuff. There is more but that could stop a boot for sure if no 8pin back there by the cpu is plugged in. Some miss it as it's up near top of board and under psu (if mounted at top of case that is) so you might not have seen it.

Sorry if you've already done this stuff, just trying to figure out why it's STILL dead with two cards, one known good before you touched anything, and a 2nd PSU now also. ESD is tough to track down when you don't have the tools or pc's to readily drop a questionable part into for a quick test.
 
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Ah that 8-pin cable, I was wondering where that cable labelled 'CPU' went, I'm not even sure the old PSU had that cable in, although I found pretty much the only 8-pin adapter on the motherboard right at the top, towards the left, by its crammed right next to a capacitor and a piece of case metal and It prevents or just makes it super hard to plug in the 8-pin. This would surely stop a boot right?
 
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Did some research, and apparently you really only need a 4 pin connector on the right side of the 8 pin input, but the corsair doesn't have a 4 pin connector lol. I going to try the old PSU and see how that works
 
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Oh MA gawd. IT WAS THIS MISSING 4 PIN THE ENTIRE TIME. >>>>😡((((((!!!!! And i reset all that crap foe nothing, Now it's asking me to reboot and select the boot device... ?
Just checked bios settings, it isn't detecting any SATA hard drives.... Ehh y u do dis
 
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