Solutions: I have many PCs and swap GPUs and CPUs and Memory and SSDs all the time to Tweak them.
#1) Assume problem is ghost driver in device manager. Start OS with 1060. Open Settings/System/Power& Sleep/Related/Additional power settings/Choose what the power buttons do. Set Power button to "Shut down." Open Device manager view tab. Select show hidden devices. Open display adapters' carrot ">" and uninstall every display adapter listed and also check the box for "Delete the driver software." Shut down, restart into bios - Usually Del (press and hold or press press press ... until it opens Bios. Select your GPU settings under advanced BIOS menu. Make sure GPU is set for Auto or external "NOT Onboard or Internal". NVIDIA cards are sometimes unable to activate with the basic display driver, however they will usually correctly ID themselves to the OS and windows will automatically download a driver for the card. What does this mean? You boot it with the 2070, it boots into the OS with a BLACK Screen. (For peace of mind - You can periodically test if the OS is still working by depressing the Num Lock button toggle and watching the light go on then off, indicating the OS is in a functional state versus being hung. The OS will start up, you'll notice the three keyboard lights blink on and off when bios is starting. Patiently wait for about 12 minutes and boom starts up when windows loads the new driver (Hopefully) or NOT. If not let it sit with a BLACK Screen for about 1 hour and then do a soft/hard power off by pushing the power button for 2 seconds. This will initiate a soft shutdown. After shutdown, let chill for 30 seconds, remove power cord from PSU and hold power button for 30 seconds. Put power cord back in, and start PC. It should get through the Bios and start with a real NVIDIA driver or a Reduced functionality MS driver, but it should start.
#2) GPU has too much demand for Power Supply or CPU has overheat condition from inadequate thermal paste. You can run the OS with the 1060. Load Coretemp utility (
https://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/). Load performance test utility (Like
www.passmark.com has a free performance test that is the "Only" one you would ever need.) With Coretemp displaying all 8(?) of your Rizen cores, you run performance test and monitor CPU core temperatures and verify no sudden spikes (>120 C) if it spikes re apply putty to CPU and reinstall fan - making sure the 4 snaps for the fan mount are into and LOCKED in the MOBO Holes. My 1080 GPU works with a 95 watt CPU and it is fine with a 500 watt PSU - BUT - I found the CPU from the factory only had a layer of temp paste as thick as a human hair in 1/10th the surface. This may be the fault of the PC installer, or me when swapping around CPUs, or from the inherently stupid design of the CPU fan with four shoddy plastic snaps with metal pins to expand them into the motherboard holes. These shoddy CPU fans that come with the CPU tend to not lock in and one of the four will work loose allowing the cooling block to separate from the CPU, causing it to instantly heat up to 120+ , Physically burn the putty off the CPU, and pop the thermal breaker or the digital virtual breaker "thermal Throttling." You notice this with the new GPU because the extra 100-200 watt Draw on the PSU. Extra heat puts the thermal paste connection beyond its limited capability. Pop fan out, clean and reapply thermal paste and reinstall CPU fan (Or throw it in the trash and get a real liquid cooler like a cooler master h100. Mine worked beautiful for10 years (still working perfect). It puts a 4 nut nutplate under your MOBO to attach to cooling block to. I know you said your temps were normal, but for me,the temp went up so fast the default setting of the temperature software had update to like 5 seconds, and the CPU temp goes from like 70 C to like 120 C in 0.5 seconds (Many tech sites say up to 149 C but I disagree If your CPU runs hotter than 120 C continuously, it won't be for long. Only Coretemp app worked for me a it really updates the temp quick interval and realtime. In addition, if the CPU is running hot it instantly sucks 50 to 100% extra power. Id recommend an 800 to 1000 watt PSU so you can handle normal ops and temporary spikes.
#3) GPU is defective (Yes the second one they sent you). It could be that it has drivers you can't load because they come from China with GPU chipset that is not supported by MS. I know your said EVGA and they are top of the line vendor for NVIDIA GPUs. For your 2070 this is not the case, but I tell you to show how bizarre it can be for the problem to be a corrupt or poorly written driver. Even with a good driver, if the manufacturer only offers a driver in certain regions, copyright laws make this kind of situation possible. It has to do with the DVD region setting that is buried under a mountain of sub-sub-sub settings and can only be changed one or zero or a few times only. When the card is designed for a specific region by the vendor (Maybe even EVGA) or the driver only works with an older OS version, the person who is selling on EBAY or AMAZON or whatever bulletin sales board does not and can not know that the card will only work in European Economic Union, Or China or Mongolia (For Example). The last EVGA 1080 ti ftw3 card I bought off the internet came from China with an install disk for a driver. The disk was coded for region other than USA so my device couldn't read it. It will work with windows 10 version 1507 (July 2015) and the GTX 1080ti driver BUT NO NEWER VERSION OF WINDOWS WILL SUPPORT IT. Funny thing is my other six EVGA GTX 1080ti FTW3s all work right up into W10-2011 released just a week ago. This is because MS is removing more and more hardware support drivers for older architecture cards or less common video cards that are coded by the manufacturer to only run in a specific geographic region. For Example - I had a $$$$ AMD Radeon HD 4890 that has an AGP slot purchased in 2014. Runs like lightning on an old Alien motherboard with Windows 10 1507, but W 10 1603 kills its support, and W10 "Lying" says " The device is reporting a problem" well - yeah MS removed the AGP driver support, in fact they have removed a large amount of support in the way of drivers as in architectures and multiple region support!
#4) Chipset/Bios/Internal structure of OS/or update mechanism is broken or corrupted or in a non-responsive state (Similar to windows update crashes for no apparent reason and never successfully updates again until you delete the entire software download directory - great; it fixes auto update but at what cost? A loss of all historical information and all entries of what patches were SUCCESSFULLY and UNSUCCESSFULLY installed and how many times each one repeated the install. Seven Things you need to do - A) Update Bios or replace with same version; B) Install alternate drive in PC; C) Install 2070 in MOBO; D) Install New Chipset in MOBO; E) Update OS with MS; Customize OS performance and setup options; add utilities, apps, and files after OS starts; F) Assuming a satisfactory startup after fresh setup, Replace the alternate drive with original (SSD) and repeat procedure you just performed on alternate drive with the real one (Why do it twice - so you learn through your mistakes with an alternate drive and not with the REAL Critical Drive); G) Have a backout plan back to the 1060 becausej 95% of the performance score is better than 0 % of performance score. My son just set up a similar rig. If permitted, The web boss here can forward you a link to my email and I will help you further by consulting with my son on what tricks he used to get his rig working. Start OS with 1060, install BIOS update, Restart and Open Bios ( Mega banging Delete key and reset critical settings like Date and time, CPU to Normal or Standard performance mode, Storage configuration to AHCI or Raid for One or Multiple Drives, If UEFI Bios Ensure compatibility mode to do a non UEFI install of OS, Turn OFF any internal audio, onboard network, network boot, thunder board, if any USBs offer Legacy mode turn it on, if any USB offer standard or type 3, select standard, as the driver for type three doesn't get loaded until the OS loads, (Pretty difficult if every USB port is useless during the install of the OS forcing you to complete the install with a keyboard attached to the DIN (1/4 inch round Half Green Half Purple port - Colors are a guess as I'm Color Blind), and all performance enhancements. You may also have to set up the Memory timings and voltages. Remember if your memory is rated 3200 you may need to set the speed higher because of the idiotic rating of overclocked memory. You may also have to under clock it slightly. For the system settings you may need to increase the timeout for the Bios post display, turn off Full sreen logo, and turn off fast start and turn off AMP memory enhancements. Now you should be good for BIOS with the other defaults. Now save and power off. Install your 2070 GCU. Install a spare harddrive - like the originaldrive you had before your SSD. If you have no spare, put your current drive in another PC and set it up as a secondary drive, manually copy every critical directory, like documents, videos,pictures, downloads, and any other personal or mission essential files and programs and drivers into the other Drive. Remember - DON'T EVER TRUST MS Windows Backup. After successful, visually confimed copy of all critical and optional files to other PC, put spare or original drive into your rig (Only put back original drive if you are ABSOLUTELY sure you can risk losing the data). Install W10 USB into USB port closest to the Round combo keyboard/mouse DIN port. Restart, hammer (Push push push push ...) the Boot Menu Button F11 (With Full Screen Bios Mode Off you should (you might) see the option key to bring up Boot Menu. Remember to select the regular or NON UEFI USB - "Cruiser Glide" - as an example. If you use the UEFI by accident (many UEFI capable PCs will automatically start in UEFI mode if you don't specify at boot menu. If the computer doesn't see the USB W10; reboot and try again. You may have to enter the Bios and select the boot options from the advance Bios menu, if it defaults to easy mode. It may give the option for a one time boot of the USB or you may have to put the USB at the top of the Normal Boot Order list usually with the "+" or the "-" key to change boot order. It also may be the F6 and F5 key. Just check the dialog displayed on the right of the boot options panel in the Bios for individual panel options. If you have to put the USB into the 1st boot position (Top Slot), then remember to yank out the USB when the new OS gets to point in the install when it says it will reboot in 10 seconds. Put your hand on the USB at 9 seconds, watch for the Blue screen for 1 second, then when the screen goes Black, pull out the USB and it will reboot and start up the rest of the OS install on the Hard or SSD Drive. When the setup starts you accept initial setup screen, accept next few User Agreements and when you get to the drive options, make sure you delete all the drive partitiions. Creat a drive partition of full drive size. It will say "windows may create additional drives for the system..." say OK. It creates a 500M Partition "System Reserved" drive and a Second Partition for the Operational Drive. Select the Operational drive partition and select delete. Now select the System reserved Drive and select Extend. When asked for size in Mb enter 1024 and enter. It will extend the System Reserved Partition to a size of 1Gb (1024 M). Now select the remaining unallocated partition and select create new partition, when asked for size in Mb Enter Value that is 80% of total Available (to allow for a Rebuild_PC partition [ For all needed drivers, critical apps and files for initial installs in the future) and an Over-provisioning partition equal to 10% of the Operational Drive [When using Samsung SSD and Samsung Magician Software]. Now format the Rebuild PC partition, the System Reserved Partition, and the Operational Partition. Now with the Operational partition formatted and still selected "Highlighted" select the next button and Windows will install a fresh copy of W10, just answer the questions with your mouth or mouse (If you have microphone and speakers - you can talk to your computer during the secondary GUI setup). Finish the install, and reboot [ Assuming you can even see the display]. After restart, it probably will have a low-resolution driver, but it will get a better driver in just a few minutes. Knowing that once you get a display it may be updated automatically to a non-working resolution, Remember to answer "NO" to the question "Do you want Windows to automatically adjust resolution so youhave a better setup experience? REMEMBER "NO." Finish up the OS install and hopefully you rig will get the correct driver (if Available) from MS Windows Updates.
#5) I have a Gigabite Aoris 350 MOBO with EVGA GTX 1080 Hybrid Liquid Cooler, I7-7700K running at 4.9 GHz, Cooler Master H100 Twin Radiator Liquid Cooler for the CPU, 16 GB DDR 4, A-Power 680 W PSU, Samsung 860 EVO SSD, Rapid mode on. I can screen print every Bios Setup Panel (Settings would be very similar to your MOBO) for you to verify the Bios is OK. Unfortuneately, I can't use this one to test with any alternate part because if I remove any card, even temporarily, I will NEVER be able to reinsert again - I had to use a Jack hammer and a Shoe Horn to get the Full size ATX MOBO, Both Liquid coolers (CPU and GPU), and a DVD Combo Drive into a A micro-ATX Mini-Tower. If interested, I can post pictures and Performance test results on my Google Drive for you to view.
#6) If all above troubleshooting and procedures fail, you may send the 2070 to me with prepaid return post and I can test it in my test lab on 1) a gen 4 MOBO (I call MOBO with DDR4 a "gen 4") ASRock Z270 KillerSLI/AC with 17-7700K, 16 GB DDR4, GTX 1060 , A-Power 680 W PSU, Samsung SSD 860EVO with Rapid mode on, or 2) a gen 3 MOBO ASUS P8-H61M, with 17-3770K, 16 GB DDR3, Radeon HD 7990 with crossfire that actually works, A-Power 680 W PSU, Samsung SSD 860EVO with Rapid mode on or 3) a gen 2 MOBO HP DX 2400, with Core 2 Q9650, 8 GB DDR2, Radeon HD 5670 , Generic 300W PSU, Samsung SSD 860EVO with Rapid mode on.
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