Question New pc build not powering on.

[Gusbus001]

Built a pc today but I can’t get it to turn on. There’s a click when I press the power button but nothing happens after that. From my knowledge, all the cables and power connectors are plugged in properly. What’s the deal?

This is how I’m plugging the power and reset switch. Pic red is power blue is reset. Could this be the problem?

 

[Darkbreeze]

If that is actually how you have it, then it shouldn't be the problem because it is correct.

What are the full hardware specifications including exact model numbers for CPU, motherboard, power supply (Exact model AND approximate age/how long in service), memory, case, etc?

Have you double checked EVERYTHING listed here:

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[Gusbus001]

If that is actually how you have it, then it shouldn't be the problem because it is correct.

What are the full hardware specifications including exact model numbers for CPU, motherboard, power supply (Exact model AND approximate age/how long in service), memory, case, etc?

Have you double checked EVERYTHING listed here:

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

​

ASUS ROG Strix B760-I

i7 13700k

Razer Tomahawk Mini-ITX

Corsair sf750

4080 gpu

CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz

All brand new. Went thru checklist, most doesn’t apply unless the power supply is doa.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, I'd pull it all out of the case, since it's clearly doing you no good as is, and test it on the bench. Check that no standoffs are where they don't belong under the board and that all connections are fully seated.

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

What CPU cooler are you running?

Might want to also test the power supply. Would not be the first time I've seen one of those SF750's with a problem out of the box. Where were the parts purchased through? Anything at all that wasn't fully shrink wrapped still, like motherboard or CPU? Have you tried completely removing the graphics card and running off the motherboard outputs from the CPU integrated graphics, just for troubleshooting purposes.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixcWCrYpw3Y

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw

 

[Gusbus001]

nothing is turning on. It clicks once and doesn’t do anything past that. I am gonna replace the psu. One of the ram sticks was loose but even after adjusting, it still shows no signs of life.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, one of the DIMMs being not seated properly could easily have triggered the protections on either the board or the PSU.

It would be a good idea to at least try doing a basic reset before going through the trouble of replacement. It may just need it's internal protections reset. Try turning off the switch on the back of the PSU, then unplugging from the wall. Leave it for about two or three minutes then plug it back in, flip the switch back on and try to power on.

Doing a full hard reset might not be the worst idea either.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

 

[Gusbus001]

So, one of the DIMMs being not seated properly could easily have triggered the protections on either the board or the PSU.

It would be a good idea to at least try doing a basic reset before going through the trouble of replacement. It may just need it's internal protections reset. Try turning off the switch on the back of the PSU, then unplugging from the wall. Leave it for about two or three minutes then plug it back in, flip the switch back on and try to power on.

Doing a full hard reset might not be the worst idea either.

BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the BIOS to fully reset and force recreation of the hardware tables.

Is the click coming from the psu indicative of anything?

 

[Darkbreeze]

Are you certain it IS coming from the PSU, and not the motherboard?

Again I'll ask, is there any chance this power supply or motherboard seemed like they may have been returns that were shipped back out to you? Did ANYTHING look out of the ordinary in the packaging or arrangement of items inside any of the boxes? WHERE did you purchase them through, because I know for a fact that in some cases some online retailers will re-shrink wrap a returned item, that has not been tested, and send it back out.

At this point it might just be a very good idea if you are unable to test the PSU, to simply return it, get a replacement, and see if you have the same problem. If you do, we can go from there. If you haven't bothered to take any of the steps I've suggested such as completely removing the graphics card from the motherboard, entirely, and using the iGPU through the motherboard's outputs, it would be a good idea to do that because a problematic graphics card can cause such an issue. Also, you should really take another look to be sure you have EVERY connection correct. Make sure you have not tried to use one connector where another belongs (Common attempts at this include the 6+2 PCIe in place of the 4+4 EPS and visa versa) and that all connectors are actually FULLY seated, even if you think they already are.

A lot of people thought they had there 12vhpwr PCIe connectors fully seated too, but didn't, which was what was causing the majority of problems on the newer style cards.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ig2px7ofKhQ

 

[Gusbus001]

Are you certain it IS coming from the PSU, and not the motherboard?

Again I'll ask, is there any chance this power supply or motherboard seemed like they may have been returns that were shipped back out to you? Did ANYTHING look out of the ordinary in the packaging or arrangement of items inside any of the boxes? WHERE did you purchase them through, because I know for a fact that in some cases some online retailers will re-shrink wrap a returned item, that has not been tested, and send it back out.

At this point it might just be a very good idea if you are unable to test the PSU, to simply return it, get a replacement, and see if you have the same problem. If you do, we can go from there. If you haven't bothered to take any of the steps I've suggested such as completely removing the graphics card from the motherboard, entirely, and using the iGPU through the motherboard's outputs, it would be a good idea to do that because a problematic graphics card can cause such an issue. Also, you should really take another look to be sure you have EVERY connection correct. Make sure you have not tried to use one connector where another belongs (Common attempts at this include the 6+2 PCIe in place of the 4+4 EPS and visa versa) and that all connectors are actually FULLY seated, even if you think they already are.

A lot of people thought they had there 12vhpwr PCIe connectors fully seated too, but didn't, which was what was causing the majority of problems on the newer style cards.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ig2px7ofKhQ

I’ve already ordered a replacement motherboard and psu. I will run through the check list again since I found a loose ram, perhaps I missed something else but would it be best to start off replacing the psu and then the motherboard? Are there any chances the psu can get bricked from a faulty motherboard?

 

[Gusbus001]

Are you certain it IS coming from the PSU, and not the motherboard?

Again I'll ask, is there any chance this power supply or motherboard seemed like they may have been returns that were shipped back out to you? Did ANYTHING look out of the ordinary in the packaging or arrangement of items inside any of the boxes? WHERE did you purchase them through, because I know for a fact that in some cases some online retailers will re-shrink wrap a returned item, that has not been tested, and send it back out.

At this point it might just be a very good idea if you are unable to test the PSU, to simply return it, get a replacement, and see if you have the same problem. If you do, we can go from there. If you haven't bothered to take any of the steps I've suggested such as completely removing the graphics card from the motherboard, entirely, and using the iGPU through the motherboard's outputs, it would be a good idea to do that because a problematic graphics card can cause such an issue. Also, you should really take another look to be sure you have EVERY connection correct. Make sure you have not tried to use one connector where another belongs (Common attempts at this include the 6+2 PCIe in place of the 4+4 EPS and visa versa) and that all connectors are actually FULLY seated, even if you think they already are.

A lot of people thought they had there 12vhpwr PCIe connectors fully seated too, but didn't, which was what was causing the majority of problems on the newer style cards.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ig2px7ofKhQ

I notice the rear ssd which has a heat sink, was positioned between the case and motherboard and it was pushing against the mother board. I’m gonna remove the heat sink and see if that help. But why would this keep the pc from powering on at all?

 

[Darkbreeze]

A faulty or improperly connected motherboard or PSU can in almost any case brick each other or the other component. It all depends on what the problem is, whether or not protections actually work on a given device, which circuit, 12v, 5v, 3v is involved, etc.

Why would there be a heatsink between the motherboard and the case? Show me.

Is this an M.2 drive that is located on the backside of the motherboard? And if so, is the heatsink you are trying to use there one that came with the drive or the motherboard? Because if it didn't come with the motherboard, meaning it was intended to be used on a backside location (Do we even HAVE those yet?) then it shouldn't be used. Heatsinks that come with drives are meant to be used, and only when there are no fitment issues, on the internal side of the motherboard where there is normally plenty of room except perhaps on boards with slots directly under graphics cards with minimal clearance. Rare, but have been seen. Even then, losing the heatsink generally solves that.

In your case, why would you have a heatsink between your motherboard and your case? Makes no sense. Sorry, trying to understand but you'll need to show us.

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