Question New PC Build

[samcouper]

Hello! Thanks for stopping by my thread. I am new to the TH community, but have come across the site in many searches so I have the upmost confidence that there is some expertise amongst you all here on the forums.

I have fond memories of building PC's alongside my friends and family. It is always a special process for me as for my first home build, my late cousin helped show me the ropes and guide me through everything from start to finish. I built my last PC back in 2012 largely because I wanted something a little more start of the art to play Skyrim on. With yet another major Bethesda Game Studios release (Starfield) on the horizon and that old rig starting to finally reach the end of its lifespan, it's time for my next build. Having the ability to work remote is also largely dependent upon having an operational desktop, so there is also some necessity behind things in that department.

Today (06/21/23) I've gone ahead and purchased a good majority of my components. I was planning for a build in the range of $2,500 and I think I'll probably end up coming in at a little over $3,000 which is alright by me.

In addition to gaming and remote work (I will occasionally remote into my work computer but largely work directly off my home device) I'll also be planning to use this to stream movies and TV on occasion. Many modern builds don't have an ODD of course, but given my penchant for collecting CD's at garage sales to add to an ever-expanding digital music library, I'm including one on this PC. Call me old school but I'm just not at the point where I'd like a desktop without a disk drive.

As I've made the plunge and bought a GeForce 4080, the idea is that this will be a build that is strong operating at a 4K resolution and has overall state-of-the-art (or near to it) graphical capabilities for something of this budget.

I've purchased through Newegg Windows 11 Home as based upon what I've read that should suit my needs.

I went through Newegg for most components and will be using a work discount program on LG devices to buy an LG Monitor and the ODD. I purchased my CPU Heat Sink through Amazon.

Putting this all together in Fayetteville, Arkansas.

I am interested in learning more about Overclocking, what that would entail on this machine, and how I could of course ensure that I am unlocking it's true potential.

Here's what I have already purchased and will be shipping next week:

CPU: Intel Core i9-13900K - Core i9 13th Gen Raptor Lake 24-Core (8P+16E) P-core Base Frequency: 3.0 GHz E-core Base Frequency: 2.2 GHz LGA 1700 125W Intel UHD Graphics 770 Desktop Processor - BX8071513900K
GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4080
Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z790-H Gaming (WiFi 6E) LGA 1700(Intel12th&13th Gen) ATX gaming motherboard(DDR5 up to 7800 MT/s, PCIe 5.0 x16 SafeSlot with Q-Release, 4xPCIe 4.0 M.2 slots,USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C,front-panel connector, AI Motherboard)
Memory: G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6400 Desktop Memory Model F5-6400J3239G16GX2-TZ5RK
SSD: WD_BLACK SN850X NVMe M.2 2280 1TB PCI-Express 4.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) WDS100T2X0E
Power Supply
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.Black, Dual-Tower CPU Cooler (140mm, Black)
OS: Windows 11 Home
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox MB600L V2 Tempered Glass with ODD Minimalistic ATX Mid-Tower Mesh Intakes, Brushed Front Panel, Hexagon Gleam and Breathable PSU Shroud

Here's what I'm on the verge of buying:

Monitor: 34" ViewFinity S65UA Ultra-WQHD 100Hz AMD FreeSync HDR10 with USB-C Curved Monitor
ODD: LG WH16NS40 (Ideally something here that is Blu Ray compatible)

Here's what I haven't picked out quite yet:

Power Supply: (I anticipate that I will want something in the 800-850W range)
Additional SSD(s): (I may buy another small 2280 SSD to install Windows on to preserve space on the 1TB drive I have already bought for video games)

Just looking for any thoughts and feedback on how this is shaping up. If I've made any critical errors or if there's anything in particular I should be considering in order to get the best performance and use out of the RTX 4080 I would love to hear that as well.

Thanks again for taking the time to stop by and for any thoughts you might like to share on the build.

Best,
Sam

 

[Lafong]

13900K might demand liquid cooling, but that Noctua is about the best you can do on air.

The CPU will throttle itself as it sees fit, based on load. You can always de-tune the CPU to restrict power and heat if you wish.

Very little to be gained by over-clocking 13900K, but if you insist on going after the last few percent, go ahead.

13700K would reduce issues, but maybe you couldn't live with yourself for buying such a weakling.

 

[Lucky_SLS]

Corsair RMe 850 130 USD: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4Z...-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020263-na

 

[lojikal]

Hello! Thanks for stopping by my thread. I am new to the TH community, but have come across the site in many searches so I have the upmost confidence that there is some expertise amongst you all here on the forums.

I have fond memories of building PC's alongside my friends and family. It is always a special process for me as for my first home build, my late cousin helped show me the ropes and guide me through everything from start to finish. I built my last PC back in 2012 largely because I wanted something a little more start of the art to play Skyrim on. With yet another major Bethesda Game Studios release (Starfield) on the horizon and that old rig starting to finally reach the end of its lifespan, it's time for my next build. Having the ability to work remote is also largely dependent upon having an operational desktop, so there is also some necessity behind things in that department.

Today (06/21/23) I've gone ahead and purchased a good majority of my components. I was planning for a build in the range of $2,500 and I think I'll probably end up coming in at a little over $3,000 which is alright by me.

In addition to gaming and remote work (I will occasionally remote into my work computer but largely work directly off my home device) I'll also be planning to use this to stream movies and TV on occasion. Many modern builds don't have an ODD of course, but given my penchant for collecting CD's at garage sales to add to an ever-expanding digital music library, I'm including one on this PC. Call me old school but I'm just not at the point where I'd like a desktop without a disk drive.

As I've made the plunge and bought a GeForce 4080, the idea is that this will be a build that is strong operating at a 4K resolution and has overall state-of-the-art (or near to it) graphical capabilities for something of this budget.

I've purchased through Newegg Windows 11 Home as based upon what I've read that should suit my needs.

I went through Newegg for most components and will be using a work discount program on LG devices to buy an LG Monitor and the ODD. I purchased my CPU Heat Sink through Amazon.

Putting this all together in Fayetteville, Arkansas.

I am interested in learning more about Overclocking, what that would entail on this machine, and how I could of course ensure that I am unlocking it's true potential.

Here's what I have already purchased and will be shipping next week:

CPU: Intel Core i9-13900K - Core i9 13th Gen Raptor Lake 24-Core (8P+16E) P-core Base Frequency: 3.0 GHz E-core Base Frequency: 2.2 GHz LGA 1700 125W Intel UHD Graphics 770 Desktop Processor - BX8071513900K
GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 4080
Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z790-H Gaming (WiFi 6E) LGA 1700(Intel12th&13th Gen) ATX gaming motherboard(DDR5 up to 7800 MT/s, PCIe 5.0 x16 SafeSlot with Q-Release, 4xPCIe 4.0 M.2 slots,USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 Type-C,front-panel connector, AI Motherboard)
Memory: G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 6400 Desktop Memory Model F5-6400J3239G16GX2-TZ5RK
SSD: WD_BLACK SN850X NVMe M.2 2280 1TB PCI-Express 4.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) WDS100T2X0E
Power Supply
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.Black, Dual-Tower CPU Cooler (140mm, Black)
OS: Windows 11 Home
Case: Cooler Master MasterBox MB600L V2 Tempered Glass with ODD Minimalistic ATX Mid-Tower Mesh Intakes, Brushed Front Panel, Hexagon Gleam and Breathable PSU Shroud

Here's what I'm on the verge of buying:

Monitor: 34" ViewFinity S65UA Ultra-WQHD 100Hz AMD FreeSync HDR10 with USB-C Curved Monitor
ODD: LG WH16NS40 (Ideally something here that is Blu Ray compatible)

Here's what I haven't picked out quite yet:

Power Supply: (I anticipate that I will want something in the 800-850W range)
Additional SSD(s): (I may buy another small 2280 SSD to install Windows on to preserve space on the 1TB drive I have already bought for video games)

Just looking for any thoughts and feedback on how this is shaping up. If I've made any critical errors or if there's anything in particular I should be considering in order to get the best performance and use out of the RTX 4080 I would love to hear that as well.

Thanks again for taking the time to stop by and for any thoughts you might like to share on the build.

Best,
Sam

Congrats on the build. In my humble opinion you've covered all the bases with your choice of components. The only thing I would have done differently is the choice of OS. Windows 10 Professional would seem a better fit as opposed to Windows 11 Home. Then again I'm a Linux user.

 

[geofelt]

You have done well with your picks.
But, it is usually better to ask for advice BEFORE you buy.

I am OK with NH-D15 as a cooler.
Here is an interesting article on that:

Core i9-13900K Cooling Guide: Testing Intel's Flagship With Budget Air and Big AIOs

The Core i9-13900K can push even the most capable liquid coolers to their limits, but you don’t lose that much performance if you go with budget-priced air cooling.

www.tomshardware.com

Games will only use a handful of cores actively and will not need the top cooling that an app that can load all cores requires.

I might have suggested you buy a 2tb m.2 ssd up front for everything.
Do not be much swayed by vendor synthetic SSD benchmarks.
They are done with apps that push the SSD to it's maximum using queue lengths of 30 or so.
Most desktop users will do one or two things at a time, so they will see queue lengths of one or two.
What really counts is the response times, particularly for small random I/O. That is what the os does mostly.
These experts could not tell the difference:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DKLA7w9eeA


On the monitor, it is best if you can see the candidates in person.
Failing that, check the rtings review site for your candidates.

Monitor Reviews: Best of 2024

320 Monitor reviews. Start with our picks for the best monitors below. These are the ones we recommend based on our testing and in-depth monitor reviews.

www.rtings.com

Spend what you need to here, a monitor is a long term investment.
I might opt for a 40" full 4k monitor.

On the psu, 850w is about right. Seasonic GX850 or Corsair RMx with a 10 year warranty will be in the $150 range.

https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-plus-850-gold-ssr-850fx-850w/p/N82E16817151188

https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm850x-cp-9020200-na-850w/p/N82E16817139272

But consider a step stronger which should not be much more.
A psu will only use the power demanded of it, regardless of the max capability.

 

[samcouper]

Thank you all very much for the thoughtful and very helpful responses. Lucky, I did opt for that PSU so thank you for the recommendation. I am happy to report that the initial build went well yesterday.

I am running into an issue which I am hoping is a simple fix. After POST and initial Windows 11 setup, I arrived at the "connect to a network" screen and the computer unfortunately doesn't appear to be registering my local home network at all, either through Wi-Fi or direct Ethernet connection.

My sense is that this is a drivers issue. I am thinking that the best course of action will be to load the appropriate drivers onto a thumb drive and load them onto the PC at the outset of windows setup. Checking with you all here to see if anyone has encountered this particular issue here using this motherboard / windows configuration.

Thanks!

 

[geofelt]

Lan and wifi may well require drivers to operate.
Windows may only load generic drivers.
The drivers may be on a cd that came with your motherboard.
I really think motherboard makers could afford to include a usb drive with software.
Not all new builders will have cd reading capability.
A catch 22 situation if one does not have another pc.

 

[samcouper]

Thank you -- I may have missed it but it doesn't seem that the board came with either a USB or a disc with drivers which is indeed a little disappointing. Fortunately ASUS support was able to help connect me to a page that includes all of that and I plan on giving it a go installing the WiFi and LAN Intel drivers today. They recommended that I update BIOS first prior to any new driver install.