[SOLVED] New PC won't boot properly, stuck in W10 boot loop

Dec 11, 2019
11
0
10
I've recently built a new PC aside adding the GPU due to funds being tight. I have a Gigabyte z390 Gaming X, i7 9700k, 2x8 Vengeance 3200, Corsair 750M PSU. I've been attempting to get into the OS for about a week now to get drivers updated and have my settings setup so when I have my new GPU I can toss it in and go. I'm able to access bios just fine and I've even updated the bios to see if that would fix any of my issues. The system is reporting my CPU running at 25 degrees so it's not booting down due to heat. Anytime I get past the BIOS screen the W10 logo pops up with a spinning wheel under it. Almost immediately the PC restarts and continues to do the same thing. I've taken the drive out and installed it into my old computer to see if the drive was okay and I was able to successfully reinstall W10 and running just fine on the old build. I've also tried reconnecting all my cables, reseating RAM, resetting RAM speeds to stock instead of 3200, using one stick of RAM to boot each time, etc. The furthest I got last night was having the ability to reset W10 and clear anything out (nothing is on the drive other than W10). After the reset was done the PC went back to rebooting everytime it tried launching W10. I installed W10 via a USB with the installation media available on Microsoft's website. What could be the issue? My boot light on my motherboard is sometimes on.
edit now on bios ver F10a
 
Last edited:
Solution
Disconnect the hard drive. Booth with just the SSD and flash drive installed. Try with and without CSM enabled. If still not working, try using one stick of RAM at a time.
So was this a new build but an attempt to boot with a Win10 installation used with another earlier CPU and chipset?

You can try a repair installation, selecting 'keep my data/programs'...

Either way, I'd be downloading Microsoft's Media Creation Tool, and downloading the Win10 onto a USB installer (8 GB needed). Worst case, you might need to install WIndows as if it were a new build, not a bad idea when using lots of new hardware anyway. If it was an OEM build, you will likely have issues with activation given a new mainboard of a different chipset, etc... (One of the advantages of retail WIn10 software, sometimes well worth it's $10-$15 increased cost over OEM licensed installer kit in times like these)
 
Dec 11, 2019
11
0
10
So was this a new build but an attempt to boot with a Win10 installation used with another earlier CPU and chipset?

You can try a repair installation, selecting 'keep my data/programs'...

Either way, I'd be downloading Microsoft's Media Creation Tool, and downloading the Win10 onto a USB installer (8 GB needed). Worst case, you might need to install WIndows as if it were a new build, not a bad idea when using lots of new hardware anyway. If it was an OEM build, you will likely have issues with activation given a new mainboard of a different chipset, etc... (One of the advantages of retail WIn10 software, sometimes well worth it's $10-$15 increased cost over OEM licensed installer kit in times like these)
I was using the drive on a previous CPU but I completely cleared out my partitions and the drive and tried running a fresh install using the media creation tool. I've tried installing windows freshly 5 times on the new computer and nothing has been working. It just keeps running into this strange loop. As I mentioned I can run a fresh install on my old build with the same exact drive and media creation tool. Also to note I can't even run the repair installation because it keeps rebooting as soon as the OS tries to boot.
 
Dec 11, 2019
11
0
10
Disabling CSM tells the system to rely on EFI BIOS boot process, so you will need to make sure your boot order is correct.

Also, you said that the HDD isn't connected. So your SSD shows up normally?
the only storage device that shows up when disabling CSM is UEFI: General Flash Disk 1100, Partition 1. The SSD nor HDD show up when disabling CSM even if I have my boot order set properly.
 
Dec 11, 2019
11
0
10
Disconnect the hard drive. Booth with just the SSD and flash drive installed. Try with and without CSM enabled. If still not working, try using one stick of RAM at a time.
I just plugged the HDD I'm trying to use into my other computer and now it's showing this (refer to image)
Note I haven't changed anything on the drive other than attempting to install Windows via flash drive. Maybe this is the cause? How can I reset this? View: https://imgur.com/a/99qnZpx
 
This is typical when two drives are available during Windows 10 setup. It will always use the "other" drive for Boot Manager and Boot config files. Installing Windows with a single drive is the best way to keep these extra partitions from going to the "other" disk.
 
Dec 11, 2019
11
0
10
This is typical when two drives are available during Windows 10 setup. It will always use the "other" drive for Boot Manager and Boot config files. Installing Windows with a single drive is the best way to keep these extra partitions from going to the "other" disk.
I installed it with only one disk connected is the thing. That popped up only when I connected that drive to the old computer. The actual drive itself is registered to E while the reserved is D