[SOLVED] new system worried about temp spikes/low volts

P0tluck94

Great
Nov 22, 2021
114
0
80
0
I am a stroke survivor and picked up a tower to help me with mindset and coordination but ive had to do some upgrades to it as it wasnt that decent to begin with , i got the tower for $800 dollars , it came with a ryzen 5 3600, generic low speed memory , a very horrible no name power supply (550 watts) a msi b550m pro vdh wifi motherboard and a 1660 sc , so my system is as follows after upgrades.
Ryzen5 3600
msi b550m pro vdh wifi motherboard
32 gigs ddr4 3200 trident neo
seasonic focus gold semi modular power supply
asus Ko 3060ti 8 gb video card
case is a coolermaster masterbox
i have 2 intake fans, 2 exhaust if u count power supply if not i have 1 and the cpu cooler is stock.
i have noticed here lately gaming that my temps will spike from like 58 to 75- 78 sometimes 80 , thats playing new world which is notorious for spiking usages and temps but i noticed here recently it will go up to 74-75 on any game as well, i have combatted this by going in high performance power options and lowered the minimum and maxium processor states to 95% instead of 100% which keeps the cpu at a crisp 55degrees celcius but i dont know if im hurting the cpu by doing that ?
Gpu never goes over 71.

also even before i lowered the processor states my voltages never go over 1v its always 0.96 even while gaming .

so my question is , why is is spiking temps for not very long maybe 5 seconds here and there and oes back down to 60-65 if i leave the processor min/max state at 100% if i run it at 95% it stays 55-60 idle it runs at 30.

is the voltage to low? it doesnt go over 1?

and i know the amd stock coolers arent that good but i know nothing about building or replacing them and with me being disabled its hard for me to get the pc in to have it worked on also the company i bought it from wont just put one on they charge diag and then install . but if you think its the amd cooler causing spikes and if i should run a better cpu cooler ( fan i dont wanna do liquid) which do u recommend? or could it be one of the settings i run? i dont overclock anything .
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
So, in my opinion, one of your problems is the extremely low end nature and quality of your Pro VDH motherboard. The VDH series boards have historically been about the lowest end model available for any platform, chipset or generation, for many years. They are "ok" for basic internet browsing or office machines but are absolutely not recommended for gaming or enthusiast builds. That's one thing, and they have extremely low count and poor quality VRMs (4+2+1) which are at least partially lacking heatsinks. That will absolutely have an effect on temps, throttling and performance. The left bank has a heatsink, but the upper VRMs, for the SOC, does not, and we like to see a heatsink on ALL VRM components by preference.

Despite the low budget nature, this VRM configuration has, in reviews, help up "ok" in baseline testing compared to a few other budget boards, but not by much, and not over the long term. Additional case cooling and a better CPU cooler may well overcome these issues to some extent however, but not entirely, for sure.

The fact that you also have the stock cooler, on a board that isn't helping to heatsink anything away from the CPU either, isn't helping. Even with a good board, I'd highly recommend an aftermarket cooler with any Ryzen 3000 or 5000 series Ryzen 5, 7 or 9. There are plenty of aftermarket coolers in the ~40-60 dollar range that will afford respectable improvements in peak boost frequency and how long it remains boosted, compared to any of the stock coolers that come on any of the Ryzen processors. Not to mention, if you've noticed (most have, and I have on EVERY Ryzen system I've built so far that had a stock cooler) these coolers tend to be very "cyclic", ramping up and down continuously, which was very noticeable and drove me nuts. Each owner after listening to it immediately had me replace them with aftermarket coolers. You don't need a highly expensive cooler to see appreciable performance gains BUT you don't want a bottom of the barrel aftermarket cooler either, otherwise you're just wasting money on a cooler that might not even be as good as the stock one.

The PSU doesn't, and shouldn't, count as an exhaust fan. In fact, in the majority of configurations including with your case, the PSU intake SHOULD be facing DOWN, towards the bottom of the case, where the PSU filter is located. WHICH Masterbox do you have, because there are many different Masterbox models and they have vastly different configurations and thermal performance expectations.

Lastly, for now, it would be VERY helpful to know what the EXACT model of your power supply is, because this is the one area that nearly always gets overlooked by less experienced users and it is the ONE area that should NEVER be overlooked, since everything relies on the power supply to provide consistent, clean power, and is the most important component in the system.
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
So, in my opinion, one of your problems is the extremely low end nature and quality of your Pro VDH motherboard. The VDH series boards have historically been about the lowest end model available for any platform, chipset or generation, for many years. They are "ok" for basic internet browsing or office machines but are absolutely not recommended for gaming or enthusiast builds. That's one thing, and they have extremely low count and poor quality VRMs (4+2+1) which are at least partially lacking heatsinks. That will absolutely have an effect on temps, throttling and performance. The left bank has a heatsink, but the upper VRMs, for the SOC, does not, and we like to see a heatsink on ALL VRM components by preference.

Despite the low budget nature, this VRM configuration has, in reviews, help up "ok" in baseline testing compared to a few other budget boards, but not by much, and not over the long term. Additional case cooling and a better CPU cooler may well overcome these issues to some extent however, but not entirely, for sure.

The fact that you also have the stock cooler, on a board that isn't helping to heatsink anything away from the CPU either, isn't helping. Even with a good board, I'd highly recommend an aftermarket cooler with any Ryzen 3000 or 5000 series Ryzen 5, 7 or 9. There are plenty of aftermarket coolers in the ~40-60 dollar range that will afford respectable improvements in peak boost frequency and how long it remains boosted, compared to any of the stock coolers that come on any of the Ryzen processors. Not to mention, if you've noticed (most have, and I have on EVERY Ryzen system I've built so far that had a stock cooler) these coolers tend to be very "cyclic", ramping up and down continuously, which was very noticeable and drove me nuts. Each owner after listening to it immediately had me replace them with aftermarket coolers. You don't need a highly expensive cooler to see appreciable performance gains BUT you don't want a bottom of the barrel aftermarket cooler either, otherwise you're just wasting money on a cooler that might not even be as good as the stock one.

The PSU doesn't, and shouldn't, count as an exhaust fan. In fact, in the majority of configurations including with your case, the PSU intake SHOULD be facing DOWN, towards the bottom of the case, where the PSU filter is located. WHICH Masterbox do you have, because there are many different Masterbox models and they have vastly different configurations and thermal performance expectations.

Lastly, for now, it would be VERY helpful to know what the EXACT model of your power supply is, because this is the one area that nearly always gets overlooked by less experienced users and it is the ONE area that should NEVER be overlooked, since everything relies on the power supply to provide consistent, clean power, and is the most important component in the system.
 

P0tluck94

Great
Nov 22, 2021
114
0
80
0
So, in my opinion, one of your problems is the extremely low end nature and quality of your Pro VDH motherboard. The VDH series boards have historically been about the lowest end model available for any platform, chipset or generation, for many years. They are "ok" for basic internet browsing or office machines but are absolutely not recommended for gaming or enthusiast builds. That's one thing, and they have extremely low count and poor quality VRMs (4+2+1) which are at least partially lacking heatsinks. That will absolutely have an effect on temps, throttling and performance. The left bank has a heatsink, but the upper VRMs, for the SOC, does not, and we like to see a heatsink on ALL VRM components by preference.

Despite the low budget nature, this VRM configuration has, in reviews, help up "ok" in baseline testing compared to a few other budget boards, but not by much, and not over the long term. Additional case cooling and a better CPU cooler may well overcome these issues to some extent however, but not entirely, for sure.

The fact that you also have the stock cooler, on a board that isn't helping to heatsink anything away from the CPU either, isn't helping. Even with a good board, I'd highly recommend an aftermarket cooler with any Ryzen 3000 or 5000 series Ryzen 5, 7 or 9. There are plenty of aftermarket coolers in the ~40-60 dollar range that will afford respectable improvements in peak boost frequency and how long it remains boosted, compared to any of the stock coolers that come on any of the Ryzen processors. Not to mention, if you've noticed (most have, and I have on EVERY Ryzen system I've built so far that had a stock cooler) these coolers tend to be very "cyclic", ramping up and down continuously, which was very noticeable and drove me nuts. Each owner after listening to it immediately had me replace them with aftermarket coolers. You don't need a highly expensive cooler to see appreciable performance gains BUT you don't want a bottom of the barrel aftermarket cooler either, otherwise you're just wasting money on a cooler that might not even be as good as the stock one.

The PSU doesn't, and shouldn't, count as an exhaust fan. In fact, in the majority of configurations including with your case, the PSU intake SHOULD be facing DOWN, towards the bottom of the case, where the PSU filter is located. WHICH Masterbox do you have, because there are many different Masterbox models and they have vastly different configurations and thermal performance expectations.

Lastly, for now, it would be VERY helpful to know what the EXACT model of your power supply is, because this is the one area that nearly always gets overlooked by less experienced users and it is the ONE area that should NEVER be overlooked, since everything relies on the power supply to provide consistent, clean power, and is the most important component in the system.
the power supply is a seasonic focus gm-850 gold .

so the motherboard is horrible so i need to upgrade that ? case isnt optimal and the cpu cooler needs replace so by the time i get into it im going to have more invested into this thing than i could of bought a good decent prebuilt for? yikes i wish i would of consulted before i dove into this , i did get somewhat lucky on the 3060ti i won it on the newegg shuffle for $569.00 yes i know they are supposed to be like $350.

so what am i looking at to get this thing up to par so i dont have to worry about my pc melting down
Case (price)
Motherboard (price)
cooler (price)

this is kind of a bummer i dont have the money to really upgrade much more and i dont have the knowledge/means to have it done as im disabled :( ... this is the exact power supply

p.s: yes the fan on the psu is facing down

case is a coolermaster mb311l i do believe i have no box, model on the case or my reciept i do know its an argb one. also another thing i absolutely hate the argb connectors to this board they are so loose they will literally fall out if i jar the case to bad.

trying to upload pics of the case have to wait for them to sync.
https://www.newegg.com/seasonic-focus-gm-series-focus-gm-850-750w/p/N82E16817151231?Item=N82E16817151231
 
Last edited:

P0tluck94

Great
Nov 22, 2021
114
0
80
0
Power supply is an excellent model, no worries there.

First thing I'd recommend doing is upgrading the CPU cooler.

What country are you in?
i am in the united states, if i need to upgrade the motherboard i will, im just worried with this motherboard i'll melt things down cause im not running my cpu's power state in the power options at 100% im running it at 95% so it doesnt spike to 80 degrees every 5 -10 min for 5-10 seconds.

yes this stock cooler does cycle constantly even at idle , i play warzone on high settings with nvidia filters running and i do get about 130 fps and run about 55 degrees celcius, if i turn filters off i get 150 with the same temps.

doing upgrades now might be best cause of black friday sales also but i have NO CLUE where to start
 
Last edited:

P0tluck94

Great
Nov 22, 2021
114
0
80
0
Power supply is an excellent model, no worries there.

First thing I'd recommend doing is upgrading the CPU cooler.

What country are you in?
would u happen to know the demensions of a stock amd wraith cooler so i can see if this noctua will fit , or would u recommend a different cooler than the noctua also looking for a good non $300 dollar motherboard as i might as well upgrade motherboard while i have the cooler off


EDIT the noctua wont work with my ram and its also $100 bucks , still looking, also as far as the PSU what are the threads on here talking about them hard tripping i have no idea what that means but i read people are saying to stay away from them or isnt that my model?
 
Last edited:

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
Sorry man, I can't respond to you in real time. I'm battling a second round of Covid, and it really is the pits. However, I will happily help you out once I feel better, so if you can wait a day or two, I'll do my best to give you exemplary advice if I can.
 

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