Question new watercooling system

moshiko333

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hello everyone and good morning :)
i have some question about my new build pc for my brother
i want to do custom watercooling
incloud pump of curse and radiator/s
this is my first time with all this 😓
so Suppose my build is on Amd systam with:
CPU 3950x
asus x570 crosshair viii hero
and RTx 3080
now if i want to OC the cpu all core of curse ( yes yes i know this is to much early for this )
but i know the last gen 3xxx is hot temp in general
now my question:
if radiator off 480 (4 fan 120mm from noctua)
and TBE 300 D5 PWM pump
from ekwb
can handle this with low temp ? (with oc all core )
becuse my dilemma is if i need more radiator separately to GPU
i need the change my case for now i have thermaltake p5
thank you very much for all :)
 
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We don't know how much heat the ryzen 5000 will produce since they are not out yet.
The 3080 is a huge powerhog and outputs a ton of heat, but I can tell you already, a 480mm is more than enough for both cpu and gpu.

though I suggest swapping the motherboard to a more sensible one.
 

moshiko333

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We don't know how much heat the ryzen 5000 will produce since they are not out yet.
The 3080 is a huge powerhog and outputs a ton of heat, but I can tell you already, a 480mm is more than enough for both cpu and gpu.

though I suggest swapping the motherboard to a more sensible one.
yes, becuse off that i say is so much early to ask this
but if we looking on 3950x
the waht you main in swapping the motherbord ? this is not good motherboard ?
 

Houndsteeth

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Depending on your case setup, a 2 x 240mm might be easier to manage (and provide more balanced cooling) than a 1 x 480mm. It does complicate the loop a bit more, but most cases can handle it as opposed to the monster of a case you will need for 1 x 480. Besides, you can place a rad after both the CPU and GPU and dump the heat right away. Or, if you go with two smaller pumps (less head needed since the loops are simpler), you can split the loops for CPU and GPU. Just some thoughts.

Just the usual pointers:

Don't mix aluminum with copper or stainless.

Copper and stainless can be used together since they have similar corrosion potentials, especially if the copper is nickel plated.

Dry fit your loop inside the case to get the lengths right and then assemble and fill it outside your case and run for a couple hours to observe for leaks.

You especially want to look at any of the threaded barbs.

Use a dry paper towel to find leaks you can't see.

Try not to use teflon thread tape if you can avoid it, but also don't pass on it as a solution to stop leaks.

Use de-ionized or distilled water with a biocide solution. Don't use purified drinking water as it has minerals added to it for flavor.

You should flush your loop at least once a year.

You can flush your loop with tap water, but be sure to rinse with de-ionized once you have flushed the loop.

In my own experience, I have yet to find a CPU and GPU combo that can overload 2 x 240mm if you are using quality radiators and decent flow fans, and I've done this for a while.

Granted, I've had to go push/pull combos on some radiators, but it was mostly due to cramped space conditions in a build that didn't have good, open airflow.

Good luck!
 

moshiko333

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Depending on your case setup, a 2 x 240mm might be easier to manage (and provide more balanced cooling) than a 1 x 480mm. It does complicate the loop a bit more, but most cases can handle it as opposed to the monster of a case you will need for 1 x 480. Besides, you can place a rad after both the CPU and GPU and dump the heat right away. Or, if you go with two smaller pumps (less head needed since the loops are simpler), you can split the loops for CPU and GPU. Just some thoughts.

Just the usual pointers:

Don't mix aluminum with copper or stainless.

Copper and stainless can be used together since they have similar corrosion potentials, especially if the copper is nickel plated.

Dry fit your loop inside the case to get the lengths right and then assemble and fill it outside your case and run for a couple hours to observe for leaks.

You especially want to look at any of the threaded barbs.

Use a dry paper towel to find leaks you can't see.

Try not to use teflon thread tape if you can avoid it, but also don't pass on it as a solution to stop leaks.

Use de-ionized or distilled water with a biocide solution. Don't use purified drinking water as it has minerals added to it for flavor.

You should flush your loop at least once a year.

You can flush your loop with tap water, but be sure to rinse with de-ionized once you have flushed the loop.

In my own experience, I have yet to find a CPU and GPU combo that can overload 2 x 240mm if you are using quality radiators and decent flow fans, and I've done this for a while.

Granted, I've had to go push/pull combos on some radiators, but it was mostly due to cramped space conditions in a build that didn't have good, open airflow.

Good luck!
ok sir thank you very much for all
but if i see deeply i can to "upgrate" the case to P8
now i can to allow 3140mm X2 radiator cuse if i go with the your way ( 2*240)
this is overpowerd for this step ?
the radiators and the combo pump is from ekwb
p.s
about the radiatros:
the tickness is relly matter ? 38mm to 60mm
and waht the diffrent if i decid to take 140mm *3 radiatorX2
is worth that ?
thank you :)
 

Karadjgne

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Ambassador
The Crosshair is an oddball. It's a DTX, which is basically a mITX that's extended downwards a few inches. So a very small board, and thats what you pay extra for, the small size packed with the most top line components and ability.

A standard ATX or even a mATX costs much less and can have the same ability, they are just a little larger, standard sized.

Loop order doesn't really matter. Liquid coolant is a medium to transfer wattage from component to heat exchanger, it just carries it, it doesn't use it. Most of the heat accumulated by the liquid isn't from the components themselves it's from the blocks and tubing absorbing the wattage and getting warm. With a cpu under load running warm like 70°C ish, the actual coolant temps with correctly sized rads will be closer to 40°C ish. You might see a 1°C - 2°C coolant temp difference before-after a block.

Rad size needs will be determined by max load. Until you know what that potential load is going to be, you can't determine how much rad capacity you will need.

You buy your rims first, then tires to fit. You don't buy tires and expect them to fit whatever rim you buy later
 

moshiko333

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The Crosshair is an oddball. It's a DTX, which is basically a mITX that's extended downwards a few inches. So a very small board, and thats what you pay extra for, the small size packed with the most top line components and ability.

A standard ATX or even a mATX costs much less and can have the same ability, they are just a little larger, standard sized.

Loop order doesn't really matter. Liquid coolant is a medium to transfer wattage from component to heat exchanger, it just carries it, it doesn't use it. Most of the heat accumulated by the liquid isn't from the components themselves it's from the blocks and tubing absorbing the wattage and getting warm. With a cpu under load running warm like 70°C ish, the actual coolant temps with correctly sized rads will be closer to 40°C ish. You might see a 1°C - 2°C coolant temp difference before-after a block.

Rad size needs will be determined by max load. Until you know what that potential load is going to be, you can't determine how much rad capacity you will need.

You buy your rims first, then tires to fit. You don't buy tires and expect them to fit whatever rim you buy later
ok i got it
the radiator is the most importnt on WatherLoop
but i have some qustion about the thciknees off the radiator
if is realy big diffrent between 38/66 ?
and if the size of the fan is better 140 on 120 ? if we take 2 rad on 3 fans
 
ok i got it
the radiator is the most importnt on WatherLoop
but i have some qustion about the thciknees off the radiator
if is realy big diffrent between 38/66 ?
and if the size of the fan is better 140 on 120 ? if we take 2 rad on 3 fans
140 is better, but it's not that big a difference.

A 66mm is much better as long as you have good pressure optimized fans.
 

Karadjgne

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Ambassador
No. Do your homework. There's differences in rads designs, thicknesses, abilities, needs. Aios all use basically the sane rads from a couple different manufacturers. Custom loop rads are not aio rads. Some rads are thicker, have more fins, require high speed-high static fans. Other rads might be thin but have high fin count, so require low speed-high static pressure fans, other rads same thickness have low fin count so require higher cfm fans.

There's far too many variables in custom loops from different designs, different requirements, different abilities, for you to just say 'I' ll buy this' and hope it works. This last loop of mine took almost a full year of planning, deleting, starting over, and finally purchasing.

Custom loops are designed backwards, like mITX tiny builds. Normally ppl start with cpu/gpu then buy motherboard and finally buy case. With loops, you start with the case then go find parts to fit that will work for intended cpu/gpu and your wants/needs. If you can't get what you want, find another case. Find new parts. Keep starting over until you get it right.

A custom loop will only work as well as you plan it to. The more you put into the planning, the better the loop will be. Just buying parts = same as buying AIO.
 
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moshiko333

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No. Do your homework. There's differences in rads designs, thicknesses, abilities, needs. Aios all use basically the sane rads from a couple different manufacturers. Custom loop rads are not aio rads. Some rads are thicker, have more fins, require high speed-high static fans. Other rads might be thin but have high fin count, so require low speed-high static pressure fans, other rads same thickness have low fin count so require higher cfm fans.

There's far too many variables in custom loops from different designs, different requirements, different abilities, for you to just say 'I' ll buy this' and hope it works. This last loop of mine took almost a full year of planning, deleting, starting over, and finally purchasing.

Custom loops are designed backwards, like mITX tiny builds. Normally ppl start with cpu/gpu then buy motherboard and finally buy case. With loops, you start with the case then go find parts to fit that will work for intended cpu/gpu and your wants/needs. If you can't get what you want, find another case. Find new parts. Keep starting over until you get it right.
ok sir thank you very much
 

rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
There are a lot of stickies and information on the web. If there is one bit of advice that I can provide, it is this:

Learn as much as you can and don't blindly accept the answers of just anyone on a forum without doublechecking facts.

I have seen so many situations like this where a forum user wants to watercool and someone begins providing information on what to buy, what they think, etc. The user makes purchases and completes their setup only to find it does not perform how they expected or ran into problems which could have been avoided with good information.

It is your money, so know what you are buying and only make the decision when you are confident there is understanding of what you are deciding upon. The options available in custom watercooling are vast and quite varied. Once you know what you want and how to shop, it becomes much, much simpler.
 

moshiko333

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Nov 9, 2015
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There are a lot of stickies and information on the web. If there is one bit of advice that I can provide, it is this:

Learn as much as you can and don't blindly accept the answers of just anyone on a forum without doublechecking facts.

I have seen so many situations like this where a forum user wants to watercool and someone begins providing information on what to buy, what they think, etc. The user makes purchases and completes their setup only to find it does not perform how they expected or ran into problems which could have been avoided with good information.

It is your money, so know what you are buying and only make the decision when you are confident there is understanding of what you are deciding upon. The options available in custom watercooling are vast and quite varied. Once you know what you want and how to shop, it becomes much, much simpler.
ok sir your right for all you say
i read the sticky again and again
 

moshiko333

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Nov 9, 2015
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4,510
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There are a lot of stickies and information on the web. If there is one bit of advice that I can provide, it is this:

Learn as much as you can and don't blindly accept the answers of just anyone on a forum without doublechecking facts.

I have seen so many situations like this where a forum user wants to watercool and someone begins providing information on what to buy, what they think, etc. The user makes purchases and completes their setup only to find it does not perform how they expected or ran into problems which could have been avoided with good information.

It is your money, so know what you are buying and only make the decision when you are confident there is understanding of what you are deciding upon. The options available in custom watercooling are vast and quite varied. Once you know what you want and how to shop, it becomes much, much simpler.
after to read thr sickies
this is what i understand:
for all steup is take the core p8 ( cuse the 480 rad in the side and on the top i set red of 360mm)
my GPU and CPU on 425W TPD
for the pump:
i choose the TBE 200 D5 PWM from ekwb
Loop TDP is : 380.8~381
now move to rad info :
the info on the sticky is little bit old so i do volume LxWxH in mm
for the 480mm rad from ekwb The equal is 594.1 W
for the 360mm rad form ekwb The equal is 481 W
now base on the red 360 with 3 fan of 120 on 1407RPM depend example on the sticky
the DT for my system on total is 9.5C (for GPU and CPU)
now in know this is on the limit becuse 10C DT is the max Temp of DT of one Loop
so becuse of that i take two rad
now few qustion :
  1. the pump it's be ok with this setup no? (MF1500/H) and ( MPH 3.9m) for the two rad (480 and 360)
  2. nocuta IPPC-2000 (2000RPM) will be good now ? if the DT on 1407 RPM is so low 9.5C for both cpu and gpu so i prefer to take "more" 500 RPM range
  3. if DT on total is 9.5C and i take 2 rad so the value of DT divided into two no?
    becuse i do the DT on one rad no too
  4. final qustion the ml on the pump is not change at all yes ? i take one specific 330ml becuse the space on the case allow me to take big one
    Thank you very much
 
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rubix_1011

Contributing Writer
Moderator
  1. I'm not sure what MF and MPH mean, but looks like flow rate and pump head pressure, if I am to try to translate your response.
  2. Those Noctua fans would be fine, there are other good fans for static pressure from Cooler Master, Corsair, Arctic and EK which can also be used.
  3. Delta-T is not divided by 2, it is cumulative for the complete cooling loop. If there are 2 loops, you have 2 separate Delta-T to consider.
  4. The ml on the pump? The reservoir? I don't understand this question. Reservoir size does not impact cooling performance, it only impacts the ability to have additional coolant in the cooling loop to allow for the coolant to displace air effectively.
 

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