Newb Qs: How to disassemble Water Cooling System and Do Repairs

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shogrran

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Sep 15, 2011
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Good day! :)

I am new to the forums and I am also relatively new to computers (compared to the experts in this forum). Please expect a lot of noob questions and have mercy. I did use google to search for answers but unfortunately due to my noobness I don't even know what keywords to use exactly so I never really got satisfying answers.

I am planning on installing water cooling on my next build. The main problem is I know nothing of water cooling aside from quite a few videos I have watched over you tube.

I have a few concerns in mind that is holding me back from buying water cooling and I hope the experts here can enlighten me on the matter.


1. I'm worried the liquid/coolant will ruin my hard earned computer components. I have heard that some coolant products don't destroy the components even if they leak. I guess they are non-conductive? Is that true? Has anyone here experienced a leak and was still able to run the computer after drying the components out?

2. I do all my personal repairs on my computer and I don't really like other people to touch my set up. Due to this I am concerned on how I can do troubleshooting if I have water cooling installed. e.g. if I need to replace the video card do I have to drain all the fluid take out the video card and then refill the whole thing?

All I see are videos of water cooling components and how to install... I haven't seen videos on how to take them apart. If you know of tutorial videos regarding dis-assembly please post them here or send them to me.

3. Do I use anything on the metal fittings and tube connections to prevent leakage? e.g. teflon tape to seal the connections? I believe the metal fittings have rubber o-rings and gaskets on them already. Are those sufficient enough?

4. I have watched a video from LinusTechTips channel of you tube that there are some 'plating' of water cooling components or water blocks shouldn't be combined with other certain types of plating? (I thought I heared nickel and copper plated? not sure )

5. What are compression fittings? Are they the best type of connections to use? I have seen water cooling builds where people just fit the cables and then just seal them with cable ties or the metal screw something that pretty much works like cable ties.

6. Any recommended brands of water cooling components and fittings? I am thinking of EK since I really like the professional and heavy duty looks on their components. Is that brand good? Are there better brands?

7. Any other tips you can give a humble noob like me?

Thank you very much for your replies.

If in case I have opened this thread in the wrong section kindly move it for me....
 
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I'd highly suggest starting with the Tom's WC sticky linked below in my signature...many of the questions you are asking are discussed there as well as links to other forums for specific topics. Once you get those concepts down, you should have a decent idea of what you need and questions to help you move forward with your build.
 
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1. I'm worried the liquid/coolant will ruin my hard earned computer components. I have heard that some coolant products don't destroy the components even if they leak. I guess they are non-conductive? Is that true? Has anyone here experienced a leak and was still able to run the computer after drying the components out?
Yes leaks can and will destroy our PC, if the leak is on an electrical component. That I know of there are no non-conductive coolants besides mineral oil. Which is not used in a watercooling system to my knowledge.

2. I do all my personal repairs on my computer and I don't really like other people to touch my set up. Due to this I am concerned on how I can do troubleshooting if I have water cooling installed. e.g. if I need to replace the video card do I have to drain all the fluid take out the video card and then refill the whole thing?
When you install a water loop, try to install quick disconnects. In some cases like CPU swaps, you will not need to open the loop, the tubes will be long enough to allow you to simply pull the water block to the side for swap out. and possibly the video also. best practice is to simply drain the loop anyway. It's not like coolant is expensive.

All I see are videos of water cooling components and how to install... I haven't seen videos on how to take them apart. If you know of tutorial videos regarding dis-assembly please post them here or send them to me.
Non tutorials on this because if you put it together they assume you can reverse the order to take it apart lol

3. Do I use anything on the metal fittings and tube connections to prevent leakage? e.g. teflon tape to seal the connections? I believe the metal fittings have rubber o-rings and gaskets on them already. Are those sufficient enough?
Depending on the manufacturer teflon tape may or may not be used. or plumbers dope works also. I prefer the dope vs tape because it's easier to clean up and hide in the threads. The tube endings have 2 kinds, Compression fitting (best) and standard over barb type. Some manufacturers do not require hose clamps on their barb type. See your specific manufacturers recommendations ( I would use anyway)

4. I have watched a video from LinusTechTips channel of you tube that there are some 'plating' of water cooling components or water blocks shouldn't be combined with other certain types of plating? (I thought I heared nickel and copper plated? not sure )
Nickle, Aluminum, Copper, Brass and of course plexi, are the materials used. Yes you should avoid mixing metals. It causes some electrolytic process I forget off the top of my head. Some metals are ok to use together

5. What are compression fittings? Are they the best type of connections to use? I have seen water cooling builds where people just fit the cables and then just seal them with cable ties or the metal screw something that pretty much works like cable ties. personal preference. Compression fittings are the best looking but cost more. Once that use barbs and clamp work just as well but tend to look a little messier.

6. Any recommended brands of water cooling components and fittings? I am thinking of EK since I really like the professional and heavy duty looks on their components. Is that brand good? Are there better brands? Better? debatable. I don't feel they are any better, no. My only issue with EK is they force you to advertise by hacking up their products with their damn logo all over it. Swiftech is my favorite CPU block.

7. Any other tips you can give a humble noob like me?
Watercooling is not some vooodoo magic. It's alot easier than people think. But costly and well worth it. he hardest part is designing your loop then finding place in the case to mount everything.
here's the trick. Test the waterloop for 24 hours BEFORE turning on your computer. Just have the entire loop hooked up wire it to 12 volts and let it run with the 24 pin connector OFF the motherboard. It takes hours sometimes to get all the air bubbles out of the system. you'll fill, run fill run etc etc. Do your best to get every bubble out that you can. Then let it run for 24 hours and watch for leaks. If one is spotted tighten the fitting, housing etc.
Good luck bud, have fun. You won't regret going to water cooling.
 
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You don't need quick disconnects...they can be nice, but typically not needed.

If you are careful with installation and take your time, you shouldn't need to worry about leaks. Leaks happen when you rush and cut corners on your build. Leak test just to make sure before you power up by jumpering your PSU to prime/fill and test running your loop. You do not need to take 24 hrs to leak test...even 5-8 hours is plenty. I rarely leak test longer than 1 hour, but I've been doing this for over 9 years.

Brands- this is where research and budget come into play. Take your time and understand what you are looking for and what you want to spend. Know the TDP watts your loop needs to handle. Know how you want to setup and run the loop. Know what pump you want, what fans to use on what radiators to get the delta-T you want to reach (if that is important to you).

Watercooling isn't rocket science by any means, but you do need to have a strong understanding of all the components and concepts in order to evaluate, plan and build a loop for your specific needs.

Again...read through the sticky...there is a lot of info I put in there.

Mixed metals can be confusing: what you want to avoid is aluminum in your loop. Copper, brass and nickel are all fine. Simply avoid aluminum...it can be found in cheap blocks, cheap radiators and in some junk fittings.

Compression fittings and barbs are covered in the sticky.

 
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Good answers already popping up in here, one thing I will point out is the 'water cooling bug'. If you don't know what that is now, you will do once you have finished your 1st loop.
 
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I think this is what your after in regards to the title,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dzxh9-aavQQ
and heres his fill/bleed version for that
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=777JcqPVgLU&feature=fvwrel

if you wanted to add graphics or ram cooling (for example) to your loop,
your first job is draining the loop, then disassemble the required parts to allow the addition to be made,
hook it all up and fill/bleed/test for leaks
but if you have built the loop yourself, you will be aware of the ease/difficulty of pulling lines off barbs, compression fittings don't have that issue as far as I've found, unscrew the collar, and a wiggle gets the tubing off with markedly less struggling :)
a lot of people just cut them off and buy new tubing if a strip is required
Moto
 
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Depends, but expect 20-40% lower temps depending on case airflow, fans used, loop components, etc. It also depends on your CPU clocks and ambient temps, as well. For reference, most GPUs run around 60-70C at load with the stock cooler...sometimes even up to 80C if you have poor case airflow. With watercooling on a GPU...expect load temps around 45C or so...depending on ambient temp. CPUs vary depending on model, version and clocks/volts.
 
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Another question... for pre-assembled kits like the corsair h100 or h80 do I still have to run a leak test on those?

Another thing... from watching videos I heard that you have to put your reservoir higher than your pump what happens if it isn't and what happens if the two are on just slightly level ground.

 
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Another question... for pre-assembled kits like the corsair h100 or h80 do I still have to run a leak test on those?
Click to expand...

You 'shouldn't', but you might consider keeping an eye on it for a while after your first install just to make sure it isn't leaking.

Another thing... from watching videos I heard that you have to put your reservoir higher than your pump what happens if it isn't and what happens if the two are on just slightly level ground.
Click to expand...

As long as your pump isn't able to suck air from your res, you should be fine. The res being higher than the pump inlet helps keep air out of the loop as you are priming and filling the loop. This isn't a cardinal rule, but a recommendation. Just ensure that your pump inlet isn't going to do anything but take in water- no air. This also includes when you need to tip/rotate your case to get air out of the rads...if you have air in your res and you rotate too much, you run the risk of sucking it into the pump inlet.

Just FYI. Simple concept: just try to avoid air getting into your pump.
 
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As another additional question to that H100 question.... what if for example I need to re-seat my procie... or change video cards. For every maintenance I do... leak test for a few hours?

Sorry i keep asking... this is one major concern because I am almost always using my computer. 😀 a simple 2 hour power outage is torture.

Oh one more thing...

Any suggestions or links for

WHAT TO DO IF YOU SPOT A LEAK?
 
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You can reseat them in the event you change your chip, just clean the base of old paste ans apply new goo,
Leaktesting with those is not so much an issue, its just wise to keep an eye on anything waterlike in your Pc
And if you do ever spot a leak
Scream like an eight year old girl,
Power off using pwr button, unplug from wall
Feel free to continue screaming after this point although the danger is mostly passed 🙂
Moto
 
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^Hahahahaha! :)

If it is a minor leak, you'd see a little drop or small wet spot around the pump or rad. If it's a moderate leak, you'll see it elsewhere...including on your hardware. This is why it's always a good idea to keep an eye on your gear- especially when you didn't build it (meaning- the LCS cooler itself).
 
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😀 funny answer... but I'll probably doing that if ever I do spot a leak.

But here is the scenario so. I spot the leak and pulled the plug. I'm left with (i hope not soaking wet) a video card with a few drops of liquid on the back or a moist video card.

I dry it with a paper towel till it no longer has moisture I can see visually.

Should I put it in a sealed zip lock bag with silica gel packs in it and wait a day or so?

Should I put it under the sun let all the moisture evaporate for half a day?

😀 Basically rescue and recovery... I don't have money to throw away. I'd like to be able to rescue my components from a simple not so huge leak if ever that happens.

So I've heard and read good stuff about swiftek and I guess a lot of graphics cards are coming out already with a swiftek block so I think thats the way to go for me.
 
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Yup, in the event of any mishap,
get everything stripped and dried off for a good day or so,
dont seal in a bag imo, open to air will do
Noone has money to throw away hehe, its just some are sensible enough to seek advice BEFORE damaging expensive kit
You are amongst the smart hehe
Moto
 
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Compressed air can help make sure all the water gets out of any small crevices or even PCI-e slots. Make sure PSU is unplugged from the wall, even though the rig is off, there is still some current running through the board...just be aware. This is my addition to Moto's comments above.
 
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I had my heart on the apogee xt.

I have an idea though.. I don't have the cash yet for a full new pc. But I was thinking is it a good idea to buy the water cooling components part by part at least? I was browsing through some sites selling components and I see components like stoppers and compression fittings and tubing etc that I can afford bit by bit... maybe I can put the water cooling on my current pc first while I wait for my new one?

Is that a bad idea? Are water cooling components so dynamic like processors and video cards that they get outdated easy?
 
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Nope, Cpu/Gpu block fittings are the only thing that may 'go out of date' and even then, there are variants interchangeable parts, like the XsPc Rasa block, you swap the retainer from AMD to intel and back as you wish, covers both socket types with one block
pumps, resses and fixings are always going to be useful though
buying part by part isn't such a bad idea, not everyones got a few hundred sat around waiting for a purpose lol
Moto
 
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