[SOLVED] Newly built PC crashing/freezing(volmgr 162)

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Jan 29, 2023
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Hello, new here. I recently built my new PC from used parts, except for PSU:

-Gigabyte z390m
-I7-9700
-1070 Ti
-1x16 Gb 3200 MHz RAM, Kingston (Will change to 2x8 soon)
-Samsung 980 M.2 SSD
-Fractal Ion Gold 650W PSU
-Win 11

Everything runs fine, stresstests pass, games are smooth and temperatures stay low. Suddenly the screen freezes while browsing the internet or idling, sometimes with bluescreen often not. This happens about twice a day. EventViewer shows "volmgr 162" error almost every time right before the freeze happens. BlueScreenView shows "ntoskrnl.exe" as the cause of the crash. Different bluescreens I have had are:

SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
DRIVER_OVERRAN_STACK_BUFFER
IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION


Things I have done so far:

-Reseated RAM, PSU cables, GPU and SSD
-Ran Memtest86 for 3 passes without errors
-Updated all the drivers through Device Manager manually
-Updated Windows 11
-Checked SSD condition, it's at 100%
-Ran numerous different scans through CMD
-Checked for BIOS updates(I have the latest one)
-Restored defaulf BIOS settings
-Enabled/disabled XMP
-Lastly I verified the volmgr.sys driver(done just now, no crash yet) Edit: Ended up crashing again.

Edit: I got more some more clues of the freezes today. I noticed how a single program froze first before the whole pc did.
 
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Error code 162 - Real time clock.

Any date or time errors? Or more simply just the time and/or date being wrong.

How is the system clock being updated/synched? Default values?

Try another new CMOS battery.

If the problems continue then run "sfc /scannow" and "dism".

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

How to use DISM command tool to repair Windows 10 image | Windows Central

Noted that you used Event Viewer.

Also look in Reliability History. Much more user friendly and the timeline format may reveal some other clues about the problem.
 
Error code 162 - Real time clock.

Any date or time errors? Or more simply just the time and/or date being wrong.

How is the system clock being updated/synched? Default values?

Try another new CMOS battery.

If the problems continue then run "sfc /scannow" and "dism".

https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-use-sfc-scannow-to-repair-windows-system-files-2626161

How to use DISM command tool to repair Windows 10 image | Windows Central

Noted that you used Event Viewer.

Also look in Reliability History. Much more user friendly and the timeline format may reveal some other clues about the problem.

Thank you for your reply.

No time/date errors as far as I'm aware.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by this. Clock seems to be synched fine.

Will try CMOS if the problem persists.

I have done both of these scans recently.

I have taken a look at Reliability History. Most notable events are Windows and some basic programs crashing 9 times the in past 5 days I have had the pc running. One crash is defined by "Hardware error" and the other 8 are defined by "Unexpected shutdown". My Windows is in Finnish so these translations might not be exact.

Edit: Another problem related to this, most likely, happens when watching Youtube on Chrome. The page crashes with an error code STATUS_ACCESS_VIOLATION.
 
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Error code 162 (System Options Error) lookups mentioned the Real Time Clock which in turn suggests that the CMOS battery may be involved.

Swapping the CMOS battery is/was just a means to eliminate one potential cause.

Check Task Manager and Task Scheduler. Look for some app or utility being launched at start up or perhaps being triggered later by Task Scheduler.

Could be some buggy or corrupted code that leads to the crashes.

= = = =

This PSU:

https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Ion-Gold-650W/dp/B08X1LS7WG?th=1

Did you use or reuse PSU cables from any other PSUs? Unexpectected shutdowns are likely power related.

Increasing numbers of errors and varying error in Reliability History and Event Viewer make the PSU suspect. Even if a new PSU.

Reading back I am wondering if the PSU is able to provide sufficient power at peak demands.

This PSU?

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GeForce-GTX-1070-TI/dp/B076Q6GYKY?th=1

Total up the power demand for all system components. If a component has a range of wattages use the highest value.

Or use one of the calculators in the following link:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html

= = = =

One other immediate thing you can do is to shut down, unplug, and open the case.

Double check all connections and applicable configurations for each installed component.

Refer to the motherboard's User Guide/Manual and other relevent component documents to ensure that all are indeed correctly connected and configured. Details matter.

Verify by sight and feel that all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers, and case connections are fully and firmly in place. Look for any pinched, kinked wires. Cracked connectors. Bare conductor showing. No sag in the GPU.

No one want to force a connection especially with a new build. So what feels tight and connected may not actually be tight and connected.

Unplug and replug a few times as necessary to securely seat everything. Look for debris in sockets and misaligned plugs. Take your time. You may discover that suddenly some connection is easier and smoother.
 
Will do the CMOS battery swap if the problem persists.

Checked the Task Manager, even though this installation was fresh when it first started happening.

Yes, the PSU you linked is correct. I only used the cables that came with it.

I wasn't clear enough with the "unexpected shutdowns". So, when the screen freezes and there's nothing I can do, I either force the shutdown or Windows does it itself after a while.

I calculated the Wattage demand with the Coolermaster Calculator. It recommends 326 Watts for my system.

Going to do the reassembly after I get new RAM sticks either tomorrow or the next day.

Edit: Swapped RAM, still crashed.
 
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Finally after trying everything I possibly could, I managed to get rid of the freezing issue. I don't know the exact problem yet, but at this point it's either Windows 11 or one/multiple USB-port(s) in the back panel. Could also be a combination of these two.
 
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