[SOLVED] One new router, two wireless access points. Can it be done?

[SparkyLB]

Hello, all. First post.

I have a new Linksys router (shaped like a skyscraper, white--but I can get the type/model if needed), and 2 wireless access points, a LAPAC1200 and LAPAC 1750, both PoE. The 1750 is up and running, adding wireless capability to a part of my house that used to be a weak spot. It has 10 clients and works a charm. My issue is I can NOT get the LAPAC 1200 to be recognized. In my main (ISP provided) routers GUI, it shows "connected" but when I go to the 1750's management page, (where new access points are added,) when I try to "add new access point" I am prompted to enter the MAC address and the SN of the 1200. Invariably I get an error to the effect, "your access point could not be found. I know the device works, because a few weeks ago I gave it its own SSID, and connected my mobile phone to it . The LED is solid blue which means it has a client. My 1750 with its 10 clients is solid blue, too.

I've removed wireless isolation, did multiple factory resets, made sure all 3 devices use the same radio, put one on channel 1, one on 6, and one on channel 11 to reduce interference. Each device has the same SSID. I've upgraded the firmware on all 3 devices, have each device on a reserved IP address. Lastly, I set up (tried it once) the 1750 to master (ascendant) and the 1200 to slave (descendant). No dice.

To recap, the issue is I can't get the LAPAC1200 to be recognized. Otherwise the network works flawlessly.

Background infomation--from front to back, my ISP router is in the center of my house, and I have wireless cameras that frequently drop connection. I bought these two WAPs to bring a strong signal closer to the back of the house (the LAPAC1750) and one closer to the front of the house (the LAPAC1200)

Short of a solution, does anyone know of 2 wireless access points (PoE) that can daisy-chained together with only one ethernet cable coming down from the ceiling. I know this requires two RJ45s on each WAP, but I'm told most of the time; the two-port models only have PoE on one port. In my scenario, it's important that I don't have to run a second ethernet cable into the attic.

Thanks for your time, all!
Larry

 

[SparkyLB]

Yes, it's the top switch of your two links. I don't see "Business" on it anywhere, but I do see Jet Stream.

Titan indeed. I do have some flashing lights above ports 1 and 2 (the only occupied PoE ports). The flashing lights indicate "over budget." Curious thing though--I do have a light for "PoE Max," but it's not illuminated.

I never would have imagined that two WAPs on a 4 port PoE-capable switch would introduce a problem.

So would you propose putting the lower-consuming device in port 1 of the PoE switch and buying a PoE injector for the other WAP, plugged into a non PoE port?

I can't express how I appreciate the legwork you've done for me in my ignorance.

Larry.

 

[Ralston18]

When I looked for the User Guide/Manual (actually an Installation Guide) via the model number the switch did not appear until I started looking over in Business.

And then the different versions appeared with variations in the technical specs and installation information. Will need to go back when I can and look using "Jet Stream" as well.

= = =

"So would you propose putting the lower-consuming device in port 1 of the PoE switch and buying a PoE injector for the other WAP, plugged into a non PoE port?"

Not at this time.

Could be the ports in use or the respective ports' configuration settings where managed.

Also there is still a remaining concern about the Ethernet cables - correct?

Before introducing more variables I suggest some additional testing.

What switch related documentation do you have available? Specific for your switch? Details matter. What works is important but what does not work (harder to find) is also important. Fine print stuff.....

Sketch out your network and use the sketch to track changes. Visit TP-Link's website to find (if necessary) the exact installation guide and configuration manuals for your switch and software.

No harm in some testing "do-over's". You have learned more in the meantime and may discover some earlier error of omission or commission. Even on my part... Something not noticed before.

"So would you propose putting the lower-consuming device in port 1 of the PoE switch". Yes. Try ports 2, 3 & 4 as well

More important is knowing that the 1750 works in its' assigned port - will the 1200 work in the same port using the same cable, etc..?

For example; try to discover/verify that the 1200 will or will not work if it the only AP installed. Experiment with the port assignments and any power related configuration settings. Key is to be methodical and make only one change at a time.

Then consider other possible options.

 

[SparkyLB]

I found the version. It's V 1.0.
I also found the "ports" page, which says each of the 4 PoE ports are 30W each.

Lastly, I'm thinking about restoring the switch to factory defaults, in case any properties had been attributed to any ports by the prior user .

 

[Ralston18]

Restoring the switch (or any device) to factory defaults is indeed an option. When to do so is more the question sometimes.....

Three things to do beforehand:

1) Verify, without the switch, that you will still have a functional network with internet access. Do early backups if and as necessary.

2) Ensure that you have the switch's hard copy documentation on hand. Firmware, hardware, and software: as much as you can find and maybe an older version or two as well. Or at least available for direct reference via a laptop or other computer. No need to be networked or online. Note: Documentation is often just copied and pasted from Version X to Version X+1 and edited as an update. Errors result.

3) Document the current switch configurations. Use screen captures, printouts, what ever you can do to note the existing values and confirm if the values reverted (as applicable) to default settings. If the switch software allows you may be able to backup the full configuration. Or print it all out in some reasonable readable format.

FYI"

https://www.linksys.com/support-article?articleNum=138824#two-t


To configure the switch use a browser:

https://static.tp-link.com/upload/m...0120/7106509264_TL-SG2210P&SG2008P(UN)_IG.pdf

Method 1 Standalone Mode (Defaults) IP = 192.168.0.1, login and password = admin. Are you able to access the switch's management pages?

You may need to use a direct laptop to switch Ethernet cable to access the switch and then configure the switch's IP and subnet mask for your network.

For example if you know that 192.,68.1.2 is not being used on your network, configure the switch to be Static 192.168.1.100 following along with @gggplaya 's suggestion in Post #12. What addresses are being used for the 1200 and 1750 Access Points?

 

[SparkyLB]

Thank you for all that. I will see if the whole device configuration can be backed up. There are dozens of pages. The WAP IPs are 192.168.1.11 (1200), and 192.168.1.12 (1750).

 

[Ralston18]

And the WAPs are static also - correct? Reserved by MAC and outside of the router's allowed DHCP IP range.

Make full use of the router's functions to list/display/map connected network devices.

Take a screen shot of the map, print it out, and add your own notations.

 

[SparkyLB]

No sir. The WAPs are within the DHCP scope. So since the scope is as you advised, 192.168.1.99, I could make my two WAPs 4th number above 99 but less than 255, is that correct? Would it be wise to put the printer and switch's IP address outside the DHCP range and make them static too?

 

[Ralston18]

Yes to all.

From Post #12 with appropriate credit to @gggplaya :

"DHCP range should be 192.168.1.2 to 192.168.1.255 if you want to capture everything. You can't use 192.168.1.1 to start the range because that's where your router resides. I would keep the range to 192.168.2 to 192.168.1.99 to limit connections. You can also hard code a static ip address into your device, in which case they have to be outside the range. So I would use 192.168.1.1xx for your static devices, such as printers, NAS or pc's that you don't want the ip to change. You set the IP in the device itself, not the router. "

I would stay with that as a general plan. (Any errors of omission or commission with respect to applying that plan being mine.)

Router being 192.168.1.1 (All subnet masks being 255.255.255.0)

Allowed DHCP IP address range being 192.168.1.2 to 192.168.1.99 - no problem with that. However, I limit my network's allowed DHCP IP address range to my number of devices plus just a few more for guests. Personal choice.

My DHCP IP range being 192.168.1.2 to 192.168.1.16 for example. Then if the gathering is really large I simply bump the end range value to 192.168.1.24 to still maintain a limit. Increases rarely needed.

My static devices, printer, NAS, etc. are assigned static IP's that are reserved for the device by MAC.

What I would do in a network environment such as yours is use Static iP addresses starting with 192.168.1.1xx

Where xxx somehow represents the device if and when possible.

192.168.1.101 = printer
192.168.1.102 = NAS
192.168.1.103 = next device needing a Static IP
Etc...

However, if I also had your APs and switch:

192.168.1.112 would be the 1200 AP
192.168.1.117 would be the 1700 AP
192.168.1.200 would be the switch. (But now into 192.168.1.2xx breaking the .1xx pattern.)

Likely to become cumbersome for a larger network so just sequential Static IP assignments may be easier. Keep an assignment list to avoid duplicates.

The Important part is to plan out the IP addressing in a manner that fits your requirements. If the router provides some network diagram then a screen capture of that diagram can be very helpful especially for both planning and troubleshooting. Some routers show devices even if the device is offline/not connected.

Or sketch out your own diagram. Does not need to be a work of art. Just the simple topology of the network clearly showing each device, its' name, IP address type (DHCP, Static) and, if static, the assigned Static IP address, MAC.

Just my thoughts on the matter and there may be other ideas and suggestions.

 

[SparkyLB]

I will take all your advice.

Sorry I've not replied since Sunday's post of yours, but I have NO IDEA what I've done. My 1750 has gone offline. To remedy this I've gone to the business.linksys.com website where you can manage your network and I've deleted everything associated with the LAPACs. I factory reset my switch, my 1200 and my 1750. The network works fine--I'm on the internet, but neither ceiling-mounted WAPs can be installed--whereas before a quick foray into "quick start" on the WAPs page is what starts the show--usually. Admittedly, this seems to coincide with when I reset my switch. I apparently thought (erroneously, it seems) that a switch would work right out of the box.

After trying in vain to get the 1200 connected to the internet (the one that never was) I put all the settings back to the 1750 but they are both doing nothing. They appear on the business.linksys page, but they're both offline. They're named, they're broadcasting my SSID, but they show "offline."

I tried to download the user's manual for the switch (SG2008P) but I can't seem to find it. I have my doubts it's the switch, but at the moment, I my doubts about my ability to use a knife and a fork.

I wonder if a system restore to 10 days ago would bear any fruit.

Thanks again for your efforts.

 

[Ralston18]

You are welcome.

I would not expect a system restore to 10 days ago to make any difference if you mean the computer OS.

Even if not the computer, the restore may have (corrupted, buggy) or create some inherent problem. Start over, start clean from a factory reset.

Any device that requires me to use some online website to configure my device is a device that I will not buy. I do not want my network down because I cannot access the internet and/or the manufacturer's website to reconfigure that device. I use direct configuration via a browser and the device.

The switch may indeed work directly out of the box. However that presumes that the switch's default settings match your network. Unlikely.

Even if the same manufacturer there can be differences between device default settings that block communications. Starting with the IP address blocks.

E.g.:

The Internet Assigned Numbers Authority (IANA) reserves the following IP address blocks for use as private IP addresses:

• 10.0.0.0 to 10.255.255.255
• 172.16.0.0 to 172.31.255.255
• 192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255

[ Source: https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-a-private-ip-address-2625970]

Get the network up, running, and stable with everything but the 1200, the 1750, and the switch.

Determine if other network devices (printer, NAS, TV, etc.) work if connected via the switch. Unplug the device from the router - plug switch (hopefully properly configured) into the router using the same port. Then plug the device into the switch.

Remember that you are experimenting with your network so ensure that everything is backed up and proven to be recoverable.

Try the 1750 once more using known consistently working Ethernet cable and the 1750's own power supply. No PoE. Directly configure (use your browser) the 1750 as necessary, Get it to work and let it work for a couple of days. If the 1750 refuses to work then set aside and focus on the 1200.

If you get the 1750 to work again, then try adding in the 1200 in as simple a configuration as possible: a direct Ethernet connection to the router with a known consistently working Ethernet cable. Again without using PoE.

You do not need to initially have each device in its intended location. Configure and test locally - maybe right next to the router:

Router ------ Ethernet cable to be used -----> 1750. Prove/establish that it is workable without the need to run back and forth between the router and AP's expected location.

Diagram the network devices and annotate each device with net information: device type, device name, MAC, and IP address (Static or DHCP).

Lastly insert the switch again using PoE to only one AP.

[Note: I also noted the apparent absence of a User Manual for the SG2008P switch. It could be that the User Manual for an earlier model or version is applicable and usable. Many manuals are applicable to different models of the same device. 8 ports being the same as 4 ports for a simple un-managed switch. That can all break down if some ports are configurable in other ways. PoE = Yes or No..... Or maybe sense the requirement.]

All in all there is certainly something astray. Finding the source device, some mis-configuration, or other "gremlin" will take more time and effort.

Key is, as always, to be methodical, change only one thing at a time, allow time between changes, and document everything.

Your call, I think....

 

[gggplaya]

I will take all your advice.

Sorry I've not replied since Sunday's post of yours, but I have NO IDEA what I've done. My 1750 has gone offline. To remedy this I've gone to the business.linksys.com website where you can manage your network and I've deleted everything associated with the LAPACs. I factory reset my switch, my 1200 and my 1750. The network works fine--I'm on the internet, but neither ceiling-mounted WAPs can be installed--whereas before a quick foray into "quick start" on the WAPs page is what starts the show--usually. Admittedly, this seems to coincide with when I reset my switch. I apparently thought (erroneously, it seems) that a switch would work right out of the box.

After trying in vain to get the 1200 connected to the internet (the one that never was) I put all the settings back to the 1750 but they are both doing nothing. They appear on the business.linksys page, but they're both offline. They're named, they're broadcasting my SSID, but they show "offline."

I tried to download the user's manual for the switch (SG2008P) but I can't seem to find it. I have my doubts it's the switch, but at the moment, I my doubts about my ability to use a knife and a fork.

I wonder if a system restore to 10 days ago would bear any fruit.

Thanks again for your efforts.

Cloud configuration just seems really weird to me. If you want access points for the home, I'd stick with Ubiquiti. You can run the management software on a laptop or whatever and it doesn't need to stay running once your access points are configured.

 

[SparkyLB]

Indeed. I'd like to dispense with the cloud configuration altogether. Doesn't seem like that's possible. Whenever I disable cloud management on the LAPACs, my list of capabilities is only a fraction of what it was.

 

[bill001g]

Not sure what feature you lose. The vast majority of AP you configure and then forget about them, they tend to just work. If you were a big company maybe you need to run usage reports or something. Things like user authentication are all done locally by the ap unless you run enterprise mode.
What I would do is get them functional and then either block their access to the internet via the router or just misconfigure the gateway IP so they can't find the router.

 

[SparkyLB]

https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/moving-on-from-last-evolution.3791507/

Thank you, all.