Opinions on expensive build?

[MrPGamingInc]

So, I'm building a very expensive computer and would like some opinions on it. I would be mainly use it for gaming, and yes, I know it's a lot to spend on a computer, the list does include peripherals, and stuff to go with other stuff in the list (the custom items). Keep in mind, that I have posted about the same question on this forum, and got back some pretty useless responses telling me either to: dumb down my build some way, or to change some parts which was fairly useful, but not implemented due to the fact it would basically throw off the entire point of my build, and others who found it a fun build (this happened rarely). What im basically asking is.... Do you have any opinions/suggestions/warnings?

\/\/\/ LINK \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/zrHnTW

 

[MrPGamingInc]

\/\/\/ Here is the new, and greatly improved list \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/w3Zqqs

The reason I change the graphics card, is that that one has a better clock rate but fewer display ports, which leads me to my next question, if I'm only using one monitor for a short amount of time (a couple of months) then buying a new one just for the reason of multitasking (i.e. While one screen is occupied with a full screen application (i.e. One screen will have a full screen of a game, while I am looking at a wiki at the other). Hope that's understandable) will the fewer display ports affect me in a big way?

any opinion on those Graphics Cards by the way?

 

[mdocod]

Thank you for elaborating on the speed differences in the memory, not sure what you mean about 2011-2013 build being that a lot of this stuff is very new,

I didn't say 2011-2013, I said 2011-3, that's the name of the socket you are building your computer on, has nothing to do with the date.

and could you also elaborate on the benefits of the MX100 over a samsung 840?

The benefit of the MX100, is that it costs about 33% less for the same capacity, and is still a very good quality drive with great performance for a single client workload.

 

[MrPGamingInc]

Thank you for elaborating on the speed differences in the memory, not sure what you mean about 2011-2013 build being that a lot of this stuff is very new,

I didn't say 2011-2013, I said 2011-3, that's the name of the socket you are building your computer on, has nothing to do with the date.

and could you also elaborate on the benefits of the MX100 over a samsung 840?

The benefit of the MX100, is that it costs about 33% less for the same capacity, and is still a very good quality drive with great performance for a single client workload.

Oops, sorry about that. But I still feel like I want to keep the samsung because of the RAPID features. Thank you for informing me though.

 

[Skylyne]

Thank you for the response! let me take another stab at another list!

1. I can't as much as I would like to, it would mean that I would need to upgrade to a 500GB of memory which I can't afford to do

Well, depending on where you're buying your SSD, you may/may not have the availability of a smaller drive; however, you can purchase them, as they are available. Link to the 850 Pro, 256 GB - http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7ke256bw. You don't spend too much more; $158 vs $180... if you want the 850, for the extended life span (unlikely you'll hit it, but some people prefer it), then it's only an extra $22. I think people can see why I'm fine with spending the "premium" for that.

2. I don't want to breach the 3TB HDD memory because I would need to change the external hard drive which would get more expensive to a point where it seems dumb for me to spend that much on external hard drives. I would just like to mention something about my budget: although it is a high amount to spend on a computer, it still is a budget and in my case a very strict one at that so I really don't want to spend extra money on things that wouldn't improve the experience massively. Sorry if I was a little mean, but I just thought I should get that out of the way before anybody else gets the same idea. In regards to RAID, my personal opinion is that it's pretty useless because if one drive fails and I lose half of my data I would still need an external drive and to do the same process if I had lost all of my data. Also. If you have any recommendations on HDD's that I should get that would still keep me in that 3TB amount of memory, but be in the form of smaller drives, that would be great.

I am not aware of any 3TB HDDs that are currently yielding a decent lifespan. There may very well be some, but I'm not a HDD nut. And no, if you have a single HDD crash in a RAID 1 configuration, you won't lose half of your data; you lose NO data. A RAID 1 configuration gives you two drives that are mirror images of each other; so, if a single drive crashes, you won't lose any data. Running a RAID 1, with dual 3TB drives, will give you 3TB of storage. If you still want the external, for mobile use, then go for it; but a running a RAID 1 with dual internal drives will do just the same thing for backing up, if you're simply using the external as a mirror backup. Make sense?

Also, you can still use the external for a mobile backup drive, as you won't have your computer breaching the 3TB limit.

3. Great! I've had a real hard time with audio and I'm glad I have found someone that know more about it! I have a couple of questions for you, but let me get to the things you said first: I'll be using my headset set-up mostly for gaming, video watching, and music listening. I don't think I will ever do anything that can be considered professional sound or music editing. Sorry if I sound noobish but I didn't understand what you were trying to say mostly because I don't have too much knowledge on what sound stuff, here is where you lost me " I'd always recommend running 1/4" to RCA over 3.5mm to RCA. Just my take on it." So if you could explain to me a little more in detail, I will greatly appreciate it.

Well, I don't know what you were planning on doing with your RCA cable. Those cables typically are designed to run your audio to your television, or to a stereo system (not your standard computer speakers, as they use 3.5mm jacks). If you were running audio from your computer to a sound system (like a book shelf stereo, a TV, etc., with RCA inputs), then I would recommend running the Focusrite 2i2; it has 1/4" outputs. You can run that to your RCA inputs with a basic 1/4" mono jack to RCA cable; just make sure you label them as left/right, if you think you might want to rewire things at some point.

The reason I say to run 1/4" to RCA is because of the quality of the connection. Basic connectors (listed in descending quality of connection) would be: 1/4" (stereo and mono are both relatively equivalent), RCA, and then 3.5mm. By running a computer output of 3.5mm, your connection then goes "up" in that list, to the RCA connectors. I have a personal motto for my audio- Always downgrade connections; never upgrade them. I'm not saying that the current cable would cause a problem in audio quality; however, if you were to use this for computer audio output to RCA inputs, then you would effectively be using the lowest quality connection for the output, which will emphasize audio quality problems in the wiring (if any). Just me being a stickler for how audio is run. Most people won't have much of a problem with this, but I have higher standards for my audio than most people.

4. My new house won't be filled with too much noise pollution, but I would still like to know what is the best Headset for around the same price as the AKG's while also keeping in mind that its main use will be gaming, video and music listening.

The AKG 702's are pretty good. I think it's overkill, unless you really want that soundstage, and audiophile quality cans. They should be okay for gaming. The Sennheiser HD 25-1 II is probably what I would buy in that price range; but I'm also an ex-DJ... Those have a cult following for their flat response, punchy bass (though not overbearing like many DJ headphones), and they are overall just beautiful with their audio delivery. The 702's are a nice choice, though. Take a visit to Sonic Sense Pro Audio Blog to get some comparisons of headphones in all price ranges. They have some recorded audio samples on their SoundCloud page, and you can get an idea of what frequencies are the clearest/most emphasised/etc..

Most people don't really care too much about their headphone clarity, but when you're spending that kind of money, it's nice to know a rough estimation of what the headphones will sound like.

5. Okay, so my decision on the speakers were mostly a complete guess since those were the one of the last things I had to research before having a complete list, so I was a tad burnt out and just basically guessed based on some minor (Very minor) research. So in your opinion, what should I replace them with keeping in mind I don't want to exceed $100, and its main use would be Music and Video Listening and that having a speaker that can also be used for gaming would be a nice bonus, but it doesn't have to have it.

I really don't pay attention to computer speakers, as I'm a studio guy (studio monitors are all I will buy for computer use). If you want to get computer speakers, I would stick with the Logitech selection; most of those will give you a nice sound for the price. For about $100, you should be able to find a decent Logitech sound system.

6. I said they expensive, mostly because I was comparing their prices with how much memory each one had to offer. But I'm glad you pointed out that they won't make too much of a difference with the 840/850 series feature of RAPID because I really wouldn't be able to afford those types of memory.

It will be a while before M.2 gets to a level that an SSD cannot perform at. Unless you have an M.2 slot on your MoBo that can hit the 10Gbps speeds, then it's fairly pointless to get it; and even then, as mdocod said, you likely won't even notice the difference in daily use. About the only real times you'll notice it is when you're doing something really intensive on the read/write bandwidth.

7. I know it's overkill, but you got to admit, it's still awesome! In a totally serious note, if you have some free time, would you mind submitting a list that in your opinion would get me the same power gaming wise but give me the most entertainment.

If you want me to rework your build, expect it to be a LOT cheaper (likely in the $2,000 range, or lower), and with a lot less flash. You can dress it up, but I won't put anything in there that you won't really need for gaming, and for light video editing. From what you're claiming you'll do, you're just overspending for the hell of it. Hey, if you want a super overkill build, that's fine; but anything over the $2,000 mark is definitely going to be spending money for the sake of spending it lol. I probably won't even hit the $2,000 mark for my next computer, and I'm actually going to need it to perform really hard when it comes to video rendering. I'll probably push my computer harder than you would push yours (outside of the GPU), and it's maximum price, to match up with your hardware, would probably hit $3,500; and that's relatively overkill for most people.

An i7 CPU will not give you any benefit over an i5 for the majority of games out there; and even if they do give you some performance increase, for most games, it's fairly negligible for the cost difference. There are some games that will benefit from an i7, but there aren't too many that run with that much demand. You can get away with an i7-4790k that's been overclocked, and that's about all you'd need for a smooth gaming experience. With no real heavy audio/video work, you're basically buying the 5930k for bragging rights; well, unless you're doing something else that's very CPU intensive that you haven't mentioned. For my video editing build, I'm only debating between the 4790K and the 5820K; the 5930k is too power hungry for daily use, and doesn't give you much of a real performance increase outside of the extra PCI lanes... and that could also be debatable for noticeable performance increases when gaming (since that's the only benefit I can see in running the 5930k with dual GTX 980's). You just don't need that kind of power for a daily use computer, and I'm not entirely sure it's much more beneficial for 1440p gaming. Maybe if you were trying to go with a 4k gaming rig, you'd notice the performance increase; but I'm sceptical that would be really helpful for 1440p.

Meh, if you want to spend that much, go for it. If you're fine with me toning down your build, then you can spend the saved money to help me out with my build 😛

\/\/\/ Here is the new, and greatly improved list \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/w3Zqqs

The reason I change the graphics card, is that that one has a better clock rate but fewer display ports, which leads me to my next question, if I'm only using one monitor for a short amount of time (a couple of months) then buying a new one just for the reason of multitasking (i.e. While one screen is occupied with a full screen application (i.e. One screen will have a full screen of a game, while I am looking at a wiki at the other). Hope that's understandable) will the fewer display ports affect me in a big way?

any opinion on those Graphics Cards by the way?

You can always OC your graphics card to obtain the same clock speeds of the EVGA. It isn't that difficult to do, and the OC would be very minimal, too. Each display only needs a single output. If you're using the Display port (the one that is becoming increasingly popular for higher resolution displays), then a single Display port per GPU is fine. I don't really know what you're asking, honestly. All you need is two outputs; one for each screen. If you're wanting to do SLI, and run both screens on the Display ports (one monitor on each graphics card Display port), you might run into some issues... not entirely sure about what you're asking, and/or how to do it just yet.

 

[MrPGamingInc]

Thank you for the response! let me take another stab at another list!

1. I can't as much as I would like to, it would mean that I would need to upgrade to a 500GB of memory which I can't afford to do

Well, depending on where you're buying your SSD, you may/may not have the availability of a smaller drive; however, you can purchase them, as they are available. Link to the 850 Pro, 256 GB - http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7ke256bw. You don't spend too much more; $158 vs $180... if you want the 850, for the extended life span (unlikely you'll hit it, but some people prefer it), then it's only an extra $22. I think people can see why I'm fine with spending the "premium" for that.

2. I don't want to breach the 3TB HDD memory because I would need to change the external hard drive which would get more expensive to a point where it seems dumb for me to spend that much on external hard drives. I would just like to mention something about my budget: although it is a high amount to spend on a computer, it still is a budget and in my case a very strict one at that so I really don't want to spend extra money on things that wouldn't improve the experience massively. Sorry if I was a little mean, but I just thought I should get that out of the way before anybody else gets the same idea. In regards to RAID, my personal opinion is that it's pretty useless because if one drive fails and I lose half of my data I would still need an external drive and to do the same process if I had lost all of my data. Also. If you have any recommendations on HDD's that I should get that would still keep me in that 3TB amount of memory, but be in the form of smaller drives, that would be great.

I am not aware of any 3TB HDDs that are currently yielding a decent lifespan. There may very well be some, but I'm not a HDD nut. And no, if you have a single HDD crash in a RAID 1 configuration, you won't lose half of your data; you lose NO data. A RAID 1 configuration gives you two drives that are mirror images of each other; so, if a single drive crashes, you won't lose any data. Running a RAID 1, with dual 3TB drives, will give you 3TB of storage. If you still want the external, for mobile use, then go for it; but a running a RAID 1 with dual internal drives will do just the same thing for backing up, if you're simply using the external as a mirror backup. Make sense?

Also, you can still use the external for a mobile backup drive, as you won't have your computer breaching the 3TB limit.

3. Great! I've had a real hard time with audio and I'm glad I have found someone that know more about it! I have a couple of questions for you, but let me get to the things you said first: I'll be using my headset set-up mostly for gaming, video watching, and music listening. I don't think I will ever do anything that can be considered professional sound or music editing. Sorry if I sound noobish but I didn't understand what you were trying to say mostly because I don't have too much knowledge on what sound stuff, here is where you lost me " I'd always recommend running 1/4" to RCA over 3.5mm to RCA. Just my take on it." So if you could explain to me a little more in detail, I will greatly appreciate it.

Well, I don't know what you were planning on doing with your RCA cable. Those cables typically are designed to run your audio to your television, or to a stereo system (not your standard computer speakers, as they use 3.5mm jacks). If you were running audio from your computer to a sound system (like a book shelf stereo, a TV, etc., with RCA inputs), then I would recommend running the Focusrite 2i2; it has 1/4" outputs. You can run that to your RCA inputs with a basic 1/4" mono jack to RCA cable; just make sure you label them as left/right, if you think you might want to rewire things at some point.

The reason I say to run 1/4" to RCA is because of the quality of the connection. Basic connectors (listed in descending quality of connection) would be: 1/4" (stereo and mono are both relatively equivalent), RCA, and then 3.5mm. By running a computer output of 3.5mm, your connection then goes "up" in that list, to the RCA connectors. I have a personal motto for my audio- Always downgrade connections; never upgrade them. I'm not saying that the current cable would cause a problem in audio quality; however, if you were to use this for computer audio output to RCA inputs, then you would effectively be using the lowest quality connection for the output, which will emphasize audio quality problems in the wiring (if any). Just me being a stickler for how audio is run. Most people won't have much of a problem with this, but I have higher standards for my audio than most people.

4. My new house won't be filled with too much noise pollution, but I would still like to know what is the best Headset for around the same price as the AKG's while also keeping in mind that its main use will be gaming, video and music listening.

The AKG 702's are pretty good. I think it's overkill, unless you really want that soundstage, and audiophile quality cans. They should be okay for gaming. The Sennheiser HD 25-1 II is probably what I would buy in that price range; but I'm also an ex-DJ... Those have a cult following for their flat response, punchy bass (though not overbearing like many DJ headphones), and they are overall just beautiful with their audio delivery. The 702's are a nice choice, though. Take a visit to Sonic Sense Pro Audio Blog to get some comparisons of headphones in all price ranges. They have some recorded audio samples on their SoundCloud page, and you can get an idea of what frequencies are the clearest/most emphasised/etc..

Most people don't really care too much about their headphone clarity, but when you're spending that kind of money, it's nice to know a rough estimation of what the headphones will sound like.

5. Okay, so my decision on the speakers were mostly a complete guess since those were the one of the last things I had to research before having a complete list, so I was a tad burnt out and just basically guessed based on some minor (Very minor) research. So in your opinion, what should I replace them with keeping in mind I don't want to exceed $100, and its main use would be Music and Video Listening and that having a speaker that can also be used for gaming would be a nice bonus, but it doesn't have to have it.

I really don't pay attention to computer speakers, as I'm a studio guy (studio monitors are all I will buy for computer use). If you want to get computer speakers, I would stick with the Logitech selection; most of those will give you a nice sound for the price. For about $100, you should be able to find a decent Logitech sound system.

6. I said they expensive, mostly because I was comparing their prices with how much memory each one had to offer. But I'm glad you pointed out that they won't make too much of a difference with the 840/850 series feature of RAPID because I really wouldn't be able to afford those types of memory.

It will be a while before M.2 gets to a level that an SSD cannot perform at. Unless you have an M.2 slot on your MoBo that can hit the 10Gbps speeds, then it's fairly pointless to get it; and even then, as mdocod said, you likely won't even notice the difference in daily use. About the only real times you'll notice it is when you're doing something really intensive on the read/write bandwidth.

7. I know it's overkill, but you got to admit, it's still awesome! In a totally serious note, if you have some free time, would you mind submitting a list that in your opinion would get me the same power gaming wise but give me the most entertainment.

If you want me to rework your build, expect it to be a LOT cheaper (likely in the $2,000 range, or lower), and with a lot less flash. You can dress it up, but I won't put anything in there that you won't really need for gaming, and for light video editing. From what you're claiming you'll do, you're just overspending for the hell of it. Hey, if you want a super overkill build, that's fine; but anything over the $2,000 mark is definitely going to be spending money for the sake of spending it lol. I probably won't even hit the $2,000 mark for my next computer, and I'm actually going to need it to perform really hard when it comes to video rendering. I'll probably push my computer harder than you would push yours (outside of the GPU), and it's maximum price, to match up with your hardware, would probably hit $3,500; and that's relatively overkill for most people.

An i7 CPU will not give you any benefit over an i5 for the majority of games out there; and even if they do give you some performance increase, for most games, it's fairly negligible for the cost difference. There are some games that will benefit from an i7, but there aren't too many that run with that much demand. You can get away with an i7-4790k that's been overclocked, and that's about all you'd need for a smooth gaming experience. With no real heavy audio/video work, you're basically buying the 5930k for bragging rights; well, unless you're doing something else that's very CPU intensive that you haven't mentioned. For my video editing build, I'm only debating between the 4790K and the 5820K; the 5930k is too power hungry for daily use, and doesn't give you much of a real performance increase outside of the extra PCI lanes... and that could also be debatable for noticeable performance increases when gaming (since that's the only benefit I can see in running the 5930k with dual GTX 980's). You just don't need that kind of power for a daily use computer, and I'm not entirely sure it's much more beneficial for 1440p gaming. Maybe if you were trying to go with a 4k gaming rig, you'd notice the performance increase; but I'm sceptical that would be really helpful for 1440p.

Meh, if you want to spend that much, go for it. If you're fine with me toning down your build, then you can spend the saved money to help me out with my build 😛

\/\/\/ Here is the new, and greatly improved list \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/w3Zqqs

The reason I change the graphics card, is that that one has a better clock rate but fewer display ports, which leads me to my next question, if I'm only using one monitor for a short amount of time (a couple of months) then buying a new one just for the reason of multitasking (i.e. While one screen is occupied with a full screen application (i.e. One screen will have a full screen of a game, while I am looking at a wiki at the other). Hope that's understandable) will the fewer display ports affect me in a big way?

any opinion on those Graphics Cards by the way?

You can always OC your graphics card to obtain the same clock speeds of the EVGA. It isn't that difficult to do, and the OC would be very minimal, too. Each display only needs a single output. If you're using the Display port (the one that is becoming increasingly popular for higher resolution displays), then a single Display port per GPU is fine. I don't really know what you're asking, honestly. All you need is two outputs; one for each screen. If you're wanting to do SLI, and run both screens on the Display ports (one monitor on each graphics card Display port), you might run into some issues... not entirely sure about what you're asking, and/or how to do it just yet.

Wow, thank you so much for the awesome responses! I have changed the list; however, not too drastically, the main change was in the memory area (most of the things changed were things you suggested). Due to the changes and recent knowledge (thank you for that by the way) I will be doing a RAID system. However, I am keeping the AKG's because of their gaming aspects, and changing the speakers to the Logitech Z623 2.1 Speakers. However, all of this upgrading has made me downgrade the CPU to a 5820K processor, which I don't think will be a major problem. Thank you specifically for all of the amazing responses so far, which have helped me tons, and thank you to the rest that have given me awesome responses educating me a little more on PC Builds, and although not too apparent, have greatly influenced my own build!

\/\/\/ LINK \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/KmDmP6

 

[envy14tpe]

Hope to see pics of this build on pcpartpicker.com

 

[MrPGamingInc]

Hope to see pics of this build on pcpartpicker.com

That will be happening, just as soon as I get all the parts!

 

[MrPGamingInc]

A Couple of extra questions for anyone that can answer:

Does anyone know if my monitor (ASUS ROG Swift) has a detachable screen, as in would I be able to separate the base and the actual screen by unbolting some screws or something? I'm just looking to see if I'll run into any wires if I tried to detach the screen from its base.

Does anyone know where I could get a custom vinyl for my case?

 

[Skylyne]

Wow, thank you so much for the awesome responses! I have changed the list; however, not too drastically, the main change was in the memory area (most of the things changed were things you suggested). Due to the changes and recent knowledge (thank you for that by the way) I will be doing a RAID system. However, I am keeping the AKG's because of their gaming aspects, and changing the speakers to the Logitech Z623 2.1 Speakers. However, all of this upgrading has made me downgrade the CPU to a 5820K processor, which I don't think will be a major problem. Thank you specifically for all of the amazing responses so far, which have helped me tons, and thank you to the rest that have given me awesome responses educating me a little more on PC Builds, and although not too apparent, have greatly influenced my own build!

\/\/\/ LINK \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/KmDmP6

The 5820k is still going to be overkill for you, but it will be just fine for what you're doing. I don't know if I could ever push the 5820k to its limits, and I'd be doing more processing than what you appear to be doing.

Just to throw some different RAM choices, you might want to take a look at these ram kits (listed below) for just a little bit more money, and with faster speeds (which means more with DDR4 than it does with DDR3). All of them are 4x4GB, 2400 Mhz DDR4. You might want to see what the price on some 2666, or 2800 Mhz memory is. You might find some for not too much more, and get even better speeds. Figured I'd give you that option, since you seem to be doing something closer to the enthusiast side of things. I'm also a big DDR4 fan, though I still know it's fairly useless for most people.

Mushkin Enhanced Blackline ($260)
G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 series ($265)
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX ($280)

Just keep in mind that the taller heatsinks can get in the way of the larger air coolers. If you decide to go with water cooling the CPU, then it doesn't really matter how tall your RAM is; otherwise, for air cooled CPUs, I'd stick with the lower profile memory to avoid potential height issues. I'll probably go with the Mushkins myself. They have nice reviews, OC relatively well, and they perform pretty well with all the reviews I've seen. I think the G.Skill RJ's are a bit overrated, but I think the reputation comes more from the OC'ing capabilities they have with the DDR3 line; and that kind of hype is nice... but people forget there are other choices that are just as good for their uses. Hey, get what fits your colour scheme, and what you like the looks of, and be happy. Doesn't really matter what brand it is, as long as it performs well- right?

From my perspective, everything else looks relatively fine. I still think it's way overkill, but it's still going to be an enthusiast build when it's completed.

 

[MrPGamingInc]

Wow, thank you so much for the awesome responses! I have changed the list; however, not too drastically, the main change was in the memory area (most of the things changed were things you suggested). Due to the changes and recent knowledge (thank you for that by the way) I will be doing a RAID system. However, I am keeping the AKG's because of their gaming aspects, and changing the speakers to the Logitech Z623 2.1 Speakers. However, all of this upgrading has made me downgrade the CPU to a 5820K processor, which I don't think will be a major problem. Thank you specifically for all of the amazing responses so far, which have helped me tons, and thank you to the rest that have given me awesome responses educating me a little more on PC Builds, and although not too apparent, have greatly influenced my own build!

\/\/\/ LINK \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/KmDmP6

The 5820k is still going to be overkill for you, but it will be just fine for what you're doing. I don't know if I could ever push the 5820k to its limits, and I'd be doing more processing than what you appear to be doing.

Just to throw some different RAM choices, you might want to take a look at these ram kits (listed below) for just a little bit more money, and with faster speeds (which means more with DDR4 than it does with DDR3). All of them are 4x4GB, 2400 Mhz DDR4. You might want to see what the price on some 2666, or 2800 Mhz memory is. You might find some for not too much more, and get even better speeds. Figured I'd give you that option, since you seem to be doing something closer to the enthusiast side of things. I'm also a big DDR4 fan, though I still know it's fairly useless for most people.

Mushkin Enhanced Blackline ($260)
G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 series ($265)
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX ($280)

Just keep in mind that the taller heatsinks can get in the way of the larger air coolers. If you decide to go with water cooling the CPU, then it doesn't really matter how tall your RAM is; otherwise, for air cooled CPUs, I'd stick with the lower profile memory to avoid potential height issues. I'll probably go with the Mushkins myself. They have nice reviews, OC relatively well, and they perform pretty well with all the reviews I've seen. I think the G.Skill RJ's are a bit overrated, but I think the reputation comes more from the OC'ing capabilities they have with the DDR3 line; and that kind of hype is nice... but people forget there are other choices that are just as good for their uses. Hey, get what fits your colour scheme, and what you like the looks of, and be happy. Doesn't really matter what brand it is, as long as it performs well- right?

From my perspective, everything else looks relatively fine. I still think it's way overkill, but it's still going to be an enthusiast build when it's completed.

I went with the Ripjaws hoping for faster OC rates, it also matches my color scheme! However, I thought that faster memory was only needed to run a website or something like that, can it help with OC rates or does it have some other benefit?

 

[MrPGamingInc]

Wow, thank you so much for the awesome responses! I have changed the list; however, not too drastically, the main change was in the memory area (most of the things changed were things you suggested). Due to the changes and recent knowledge (thank you for that by the way) I will be doing a RAID system. However, I am keeping the AKG's because of their gaming aspects, and changing the speakers to the Logitech Z623 2.1 Speakers. However, all of this upgrading has made me downgrade the CPU to a 5820K processor, which I don't think will be a major problem. Thank you specifically for all of the amazing responses so far, which have helped me tons, and thank you to the rest that have given me awesome responses educating me a little more on PC Builds, and although not too apparent, have greatly influenced my own build!

\/\/\/ LINK \/\/\/
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Firestarter113/saved/KmDmP6

The 5820k is still going to be overkill for you, but it will be just fine for what you're doing. I don't know if I could ever push the 5820k to its limits, and I'd be doing more processing than what you appear to be doing.

Just to throw some different RAM choices, you might want to take a look at these ram kits (listed below) for just a little bit more money, and with faster speeds (which means more with DDR4 than it does with DDR3). All of them are 4x4GB, 2400 Mhz DDR4. You might want to see what the price on some 2666, or 2800 Mhz memory is. You might find some for not too much more, and get even better speeds. Figured I'd give you that option, since you seem to be doing something closer to the enthusiast side of things. I'm also a big DDR4 fan, though I still know it's fairly useless for most people.

Mushkin Enhanced Blackline ($260)
G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 series ($265)
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX ($280)

Just keep in mind that the taller heatsinks can get in the way of the larger air coolers. If you decide to go with water cooling the CPU, then it doesn't really matter how tall your RAM is; otherwise, for air cooled CPUs, I'd stick with the lower profile memory to avoid potential height issues. I'll probably go with the Mushkins myself. They have nice reviews, OC relatively well, and they perform pretty well with all the reviews I've seen. I think the G.Skill RJ's are a bit overrated, but I think the reputation comes more from the OC'ing capabilities they have with the DDR3 line; and that kind of hype is nice... but people forget there are other choices that are just as good for their uses. Hey, get what fits your colour scheme, and what you like the looks of, and be happy. Doesn't really matter what brand it is, as long as it performs well- right?

From my perspective, everything else looks relatively fine. I still think it's way overkill, but it's still going to be an enthusiast build when it's completed.

Hey, I was looking to know if you think the heat will be any problem, knowing that I will be overclocking. I'm having doubts due to the fact that anyone that has a budget/build like mine seems to have a water cooled system instead of air cooling.

 

[Skylyne]

I went with the Ripjaws hoping for faster OC rates, it also matches my color scheme! However, I thought that faster memory was only needed to run a website or something like that, can it help with OC rates or does it have some other benefit?

Well, depending on what you're talking about with OC rates, it will/won't give you any benefit. If you're going with enthusiast OC'ing, then the RJ's will probably give you better OC performance. For most other things, the Mushkin memory doesn't seem ot have a real problem.

Hey, I was looking to know if you think the heat will be any problem, knowing that I will be overclocking. I'm having doubts due to the fact that anyone that has a budget/build like mine seems to have a water cooled system instead of air cooling.

It's possible that you could have a heat problem. If you're going to be OC'ing a lot of stuff, you will either need a LOT of fans, a good fan controller, a high flow chassis, and you will need to be making sure you keep an eye on your hardware temps when you play games, and so on. Playing games shouldn't cause much of a problem, but when your build is under a heavy load (like with video editing), you can easily produce a lot of heat if you go nuts.

Depending on your budget, you might want to do water cooling for your CPU and graphics cards, and have a nice positive pressure in the case, blowing right on your memory sticks (if you can). That would help with internal temps a lot.

 

[MrPGamingInc]

I went with the Ripjaws hoping for faster OC rates, it also matches my color scheme! However, I thought that faster memory was only needed to run a website or something like that, can it help with OC rates or does it have some other benefit?

Well, depending on what you're talking about with OC rates, it will/won't give you any benefit. If you're going with enthusiast OC'ing, then the RJ's will probably give you better OC performance. For most other things, the Mushkin memory doesn't seem ot have a real problem.

Hey, I was looking to know if you think the heat will be any problem, knowing that I will be overclocking. I'm having doubts due to the fact that anyone that has a budget/build like mine seems to have a water cooled system instead of air cooling.

It's possible that you could have a heat problem. If you're going to be OC'ing a lot of stuff, you will either need a LOT of fans, a good fan controller, a high flow chassis, and you will need to be making sure you keep an eye on your hardware temps when you play games, and so on. Playing games shouldn't cause much of a problem, but when your build is under a heavy load (like with video editing), you can easily produce a lot of heat if you go nuts.

Depending on your budget, you might want to do water cooling for your CPU and graphics cards, and have a nice positive pressure in the case, blowing right on your memory sticks (if you can). That would help with internal temps a lot.

Sorry haven't responded in a while, apparently Toms Hardware does not consider you as a response 😀. Anyway, I don't want to overlook a little, neither do I want to do it a lot, the amount I want to Overclock is what ever the middle of extreme (enthusiast?) and low Overclocking. I probably won't be doing too much video editing. So I guess 4 fans should work?

I really dont want to do a watercooled build, Im just way too inexperienced to be comfortable putting that together.

Also, since Im new and have no general clue as to how to go about overclocking, if you have any tips on the subject please share. you dont have to walk me through the process because I am sure there are tons of videos/forums/articles on the subject. I just want to know if you have had any specific tips to make the process a little easier on me or on my computer.

 

[Skylyne]

If you're going to do air cooling, I'd just recommend buying some fans from your local computer shop, and installing/removing them until you find a decent balance you are comfortable with. Yes, there is a better way to get the most optimal performance out of your case, but everyone has their own way of doing things. All I can really say is to keep your case as a positive pressure environment (more airflow being pushed in than being pushed out). If you keep your case under 'positive pressure', then the only real thing you need to figure out is how many fans to run, at what speeds, and so on. That's one of the things I would say takes more tinkering than actual recommendations.

You can also do some water cooling with closed loop circuits, if you don't want to get into custom builds. There are "kits" on Newegg, and a few other places, that you can always consider.

As far as OC'ing, I'm not very well versed with that... so I won't make any suggestions.

 

[MrPGamingInc]

If you're going to do air cooling, I'd just recommend buying some fans from your local computer shop, and installing/removing them until you find a decent balance you are comfortable with. Yes, there is a better way to get the most optimal performance out of your case, but everyone has their own way of doing things. All I can really say is to keep your case as a positive pressure environment (more airflow being pushed in than being pushed out). If you keep your case under 'positive pressure', then the only real thing you need to figure out is how many fans to run, at what speeds, and so on. That's one of the things I would say takes more tinkering than actual recommendations.

You can also do some water cooling with closed loop circuits, if you don't want to get into custom builds. There are "kits" on Newegg, and a few other places, that you can always consider.

As far as OC'ing, I'm not very well versed with that... so I won't make any suggestions.

Thank you so much for your help, finalizing the list now, and in a few daws some pictures should be cropping up in PC part picker to which i'll be posting a link in this thread. But again, thank you so much for your help!

 

[Skylyne]

Glad I could help. I'm sure there are some other people on here who could give some better input in other ways too... so be sure you keep asking questions. I have a feeling you'll have a few pop up after you start building, or within the first few weeks after you get settled in, and want to start tinkering.

Definitely interested in seeing the final build sheet...