[SOLVED] Overheating CPU *again*

Dec 4, 2021
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Hello everyone, i've been having these issues with my CPU and would love some help if possible.

Specs:
Case: Inwin Alice
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800x
Motherboard: ASUS Prime B450M-A
Memory: x2 8GB DDR4-3200MHz ADATA XPG SPECTRIX D41 Rgb
GPU: Nvidia RTX 2060 Super - 8GB GDDR6 (VR Ready)
CPU Cooling: IBUYPOWER 120mm RGB Liquid Cooling System
OS: Windows 11
(I've Never overclocked my CPU)

It all started about 2-3 months ago, I was simply gaming and noticed my PC would get really loud and run low FPS. Eventually, it started crashing maybe 2-3 days after that (shut down completely, no error message or anything) and once booted back up, i'd usually get an error message telling me my CPU is overheating and I need to run BIOS. I ran a bunch of troubleshoot solutions (Checking the Thermal Paste, re-adjusting the CPU Cooler, cleaning out the dust, making sure there's airflow in the PC, ETC). To which I never found a fix and ended up upgrading my CPU (Old CPU was a AMD Ryzen 5 3600x) Eventually it sort of "fixed itself" after this and it never crashed or overheated.

Fast forward to today, about a week ago or so, My pc simply just shut off instantly (Same as before, no error messages or anything, the entire PC shuts off though the LED lights on the Motherboard stay on. Thus I believe it's a CPU issue over a PSU issue.) I tried different tactics to pinpoint the root issue to which I found out was my CPU. How? My CPU stays at about 60-80 degrees celsius in BIOS while Idle. Being Idle (0-1% CPU Load) on the desktop leads to temps of 60-70 degrees. I've spent those past 3-4 days trying to figure out solutions to fix this and even going through multiple forum threads here and in other areas of the internet only to find no fix. Having my PC running for an hour is fine and it will usually hover at 70-80 degrees celsius, 90 if I decide to download or install large games but the second I try to run a game, it will run fine for the most part until the CPU eventually slowly rises to 100 degrees celsius and reboots on it's own (assuming it's to stop any components/parts from burning or damaging.) I've owned this Gaming PC for less than 2 years and the fact that I have to do more makes me want to just sell it.

What i've done to attempt to solve this:
  • Check and clean the dust out ENTIRELY
  • Cleaning off old Thermal Paste and adding some new
  • Making sure ALL fans work including the CPU cooler (3 fans, 5 including the Coolant. 1 inhales the air and the 2nd pushes it out)
  • Checking My CPU coolant (AIO Liquid cooling) the pump still functions
  • Checking and updating Windows, BIOS, ETC.
  • Adjusting the CPU heatsink multiple times
  • Opening my case for better airflow
  • Cleaning the case itself
  • Resetting the windows options
  • Reformatting my PC

If anyone could help me with my issue, it would be very helpful! Thank you in advance.
 
Solution
That black cube is where the pump is. The Alice chassis only supports 120mm AIO rads at the top.
AIOs are not topped off with fluid, so there is some air present - that air would be up in the pump, and it would only get worse as time passes; fluid volume decreases and air volume increases.

So, either a new air cooler(limit of 195mm), or a 120mm AIO that isn't a Pump-In-Radiator model.
Dec 4, 2021
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you didn't mention the make of your PSU? but first which header is your AIO pump connected to (ideally PUMP /SYS/CHA) ? and the radiator fan? (ideally CPU FAN/or OPT/AUX)
The PSU is a ThermalTake 600 Watt 80 Gold. As for the AIO, I couldn't necessarily tell you. It was pre-built and I haven't messed with the AIO apart from RGB nor do I have any experience with one. Could you explain it in a different way? I do apologize for this.
 
...
  • Checking My CPU coolant (AIO Liquid cooling) the pump still functions
...
There's more than liquid level to an AIO...

Gunk is known to build up on the water block of some AIO's and that reduces cooling capacity to near on nothing. Also some AIO's have the pump in the radiator so if the radiator is mounted on the top of the case the pump can end up sucking on air.

Finally, make sure the pump is always operating at full 12V, constantly. You can do it with adjusting the profile of the header it's on...set it to DC, +12V constantly.
 
Dec 4, 2021
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you should see power connectors coming from your AIO pump and the fan on top of the radiator (they run to the motherboard) the pins on the motherboard should have a silkscreened label usually one of the values listed in prev post)

I have one of the connectors connected to "CPU FAN" and the other to "CHA FAN 2". I'm assuming this what you mean as there's a "connector" with nothing connected labelled "RGB Header"
 
Dec 4, 2021
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great now the big question: is the pump connected to CHA FAN or CPU FAN? if CHA fan you are fine otherwise the two should be swapped.
you should then check in bios and make sure the fan curve for CHA FAN 2 is near or at 100%.
Cpu coolant is connected to “CPU FAN”. I should change it to CHA?
 
Dec 4, 2021
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What kind of AIO is this? Is there a black cube built in to the radiator?

'Pump functions' doesn't tell the whole picture. Can you noticeably tell the difference between both tubes?
If the fluid is running as it should, you should have a hard time telling them apart.
The AIO does have a rectangle like area where the radiator is. As for “pumps”, I can tell since 1 of the 2 pumps heats up while the other stays cool when the Cpu overheats or heats in general
 
Dec 4, 2021
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Phaaze88

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The AIO does have a rectangle like area where the radiator is.
Just be doubly sure, it looks like this:
iu
If so, that would be 100% the problem, and you need to replace it. There would be no fixing it here.
 
Dec 4, 2021
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Just be doubly sure, it looks like this:
iu
If so, that would be 100% the problem, and you need to replace it. There would be no fixing it here.
Yeah thats pretty much what it looks like with the 2 fans on each end. I was expecting to have to buy a new CPU Coolant to be honest. What reason would I need a new one? Is it due to the life expectancy or simply poor product?
 

Phaaze88

Titan
Ambassador
That black cube is where the pump is. The Alice chassis only supports 120mm AIO rads at the top.
AIOs are not topped off with fluid, so there is some air present - that air would be up in the pump, and it would only get worse as time passes; fluid volume decreases and air volume increases.

So, either a new air cooler(limit of 195mm), or a 120mm AIO that isn't a Pump-In-Radiator model.
 
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Solution
Dec 4, 2021
9
0
10
That black cube is where the pump is. The Alice chassis only supports 120mm AIO rads at the top.
AIOs are not topped off with fluid, so there is some air present - that air would be up in the pump, and it would only get worse as time passes; fluid volume decreases and air volume increases.

So, either a new air cooler(limit of 195mm), or a 120mm AIO that isn't a Pump-In-Radiator model.
Thanks, How could I tell if an AIO isn't "Pump-In-Radiator" model?
 
Thanks, How could I tell if an AIO isn't "Pump-In-Radiator" model?
Look on the radiator fins...if there's a big square block in the middle of where a fan mounts that's a pump that's in the radiator.

The only way to mount of of those is on bottom or in front or side with at least one end above the CPU/water block. Like this (different brand...same design):

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/DvjSoY4ETRw/maxresdefault.jpg
 
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Dec 4, 2021
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Look on the radiator fins...if there's a big square block in the middle of where a fan mounts that's a pump that's in the radiator.

The only way to mount of of those is on bottom or in front or side with at least one end above the CPU/water block. Like this (different brand...same design):

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/DvjSoY4ETRw/maxresdefault.jpg
Thank you for that. I'll start looking for a replacement AIO. I greatly appreciate the help guys!